Bcopper PVC Electrical Wire

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1. Product Description:

1). The rated voltage of the electrical wire should equal to or higher then the rated voltage of the system when wires are used at AC system. If the wires are used at DC system, the rated voltage of system should lower then 1.5 times as high as rated voltage of cable and wires. The working voltage of the system could be 1.1 times as high as the rated voltage of the cable.

2). The long term working temperature should lower then 70oC. The working temperature of BV-90 should lower then 90oC. And the laying temperature should higher then 0oC.

3). The curve diameter of the wire should longer than 8 times of the diameter of the outer diameter of cable and wires if their outer diameter is 25 mm or above. If the diameter of cable and wires is above 25 mm, the curve diameter should be at least 12 times of the outer diameter of the cable and wires.

2. Product Characteristic:

Type: InsulatedModel Number: BV,BVVB

Application: Indoors

Conductor Material: Copper

Conductor Type: Stranded

Insulation Material: PVC

Electrical wire

1.450/750V stranded copper core

2. PVC insulated

3. ISO CCC IEC standard

4. factory direct sales

This electrical wire is suitable for fixed laying in power plant with AC rated voltage up to and including 450/750V.

3.Specification：

Type	Name	Laying place and requirement	Long term working Temperature0C
60227IEC01 05 BV BLV	Copper conductor PVC insulated wires Aluminum conductor PVC insulated wires	Fixed laid indoors Conduit etc.	70
60227IEC07 (BV-90)	Heat resistant copper conductor PVC insulated wire at 900C	Mainly be laid at the places of high temperature environment and can be laid indoors ,conduits.	90
60227IEC10 (BVV) BVV	Copper conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed round wires	Fixed laid, fit for the places with high mechanical protection and moisture place, can be laid in the air or underground.	70
BLVV	Aluminum conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed round wires
BVVB	Copper conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed flat wires
BLVVB	Aluminum conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed flat wires

4. Reference Picture

Bcopper PVC Electrical Wire

Q:I noticed when somebody uses the microwave my tv starts to make REALLY loud zap noises and a staticy bar rolls down the screen. The tv does it on its own sometimes and I thought I saw the hallway lights flicker a bit when it happened.If I flip on the bedroom light the tv does the same thing again or if I unplug something from an outlet on the other side of the room. I don't know why EXACTLY, I only know its wiring if you can explain further please do. Also, if an electrical fire happens what should I do? Obviously no water because duh but do I cover it in baking soda? I saw that a lot on different websites. I do not own the correct fire extinguisher so what else would I use? Thanks for any answers!: Possibly get rid of microwave, because of suppressor failure. It has been suggested for a good 30-40 odd years that sockets in the kitchen are on an independent breaker from the other socket outlets on the premesis. It probably only in the last decade/ 15 years that the socket outlets have actually been wired like this.

Q:How to identify the quality of the wire is good or bad!: You take the graphics card 6pin power supply, red are graphics cards, motherboard auxiliary power supply is black, 4pin or 4 +4 structure

Q:I am adding three to four new recepticles in my basement. This will be a new series comming from the box. I will be using a 20amp breaker and 12 gauge wire. I Know how to wire one recepticle, but not sure if i should pigtail the white and black wires from the first recepticle and then continue to every other recepticle in the same mannner. there will be no swithces etc. and of course i want it to be in parallel.: Since this is a single circuit with multiple outlets, it is basically your choice. You can use either the device or a better way is to use pigtails so you do not rely on device connection for the down line devices. Best practice is the pigtails, and your wire count should be 7. 2 in, 2 out, 2 device + gnd.

Q:I have a electrical outlet in my room on a switch. I want to divert the wires in the attic so that I can install a ceiling light.The duplex electrical outlet has black, white, red, and ground wires attached. The wall switch has black, red, and ground attached. I connected black, red, and ground from the switch to my ceiling light. It does not work. What am I doing wrong? Thanks.: Only half of the outlet is switched, usually the top. The white is a neutral and feeds both top and bottom. If you look at the metal on the side of the outlet you will see that there is a break in it between the black and red screw but no break on the white side.To figure out which wire is switched insert a tester into the outlet with the switch off. When you determine which color stays hot then the other is the switched wire.To wire the light to the switch, use the switch wire and the white.

Q:I have a ceiling fan with a light fixture attached and I accidentally cut the wires that go from the light fixture to the ceiling fan. Now the light is completely off but the fan is fine. However, there are wires hanging from the fan that spark when the fan comes on. Can I just buy some wire caps and be done with it?? Thank you!: Call an electrician

Q:How to determine whether the square of the cable is standard: 1: material a S-terminal line; a AV line (the two lines to sell more) 2: first two lines cut, each take half, peeled 3: the S-terminal that head against their own, Round the middle of the plastic feet up .4: the amount of the interface inside the four iron feet corresponding to the four lines .5: the shield line and the four iron feet above the two received AV shielded line (Ground). Note that the above two side by side .6: the other two lines (the four iron feet below the two lines) to the AV core line .7: re-adhesive tape can be The line of my own through the test, you can use the normal. You do not have the image to determine the line in the case of the need to set up the graphics card, and in the image and the image is not clear or interference, you can first To find the line of the problem, and then slowly explore their own, depending on the actual situation to see specific.

Q:I was wondering if exposed copper wire (and regular wiring) could cause dizziness and headaches.Or could insulating maybe cause it to?: There is a certain emanation from copper. If you are reacting, it would suggest your system is riding along a very thin line.You have a sensitivity aggravated by an outside source. You have a chronic problem with a part of the nervous system which becomes acute when exposed to that outside source. In this particular instance we refer to the otic (auditory) nerve. If you have no other symptoms then would suggest staying clear of the offending material.If you do have other symptoms then would suggest a visit to your local doctor of Chiropractic and find out what is the causative factor. I just had someone come to see me for the same problem, dizzyness. Only without any factor to cause it. There was found a pronounced structural tenseness which causes several other problems also. She left without the dizzies and even stood much straighter Which seemed to allow much greater depth of breathing.Has asthma also but, is the result of restricted expansion of the chest by that muscular tension.

Q:I have an antique light fixture that has wiring with a fabric cover. About how old is this? I was thinking 1920s.: It had cloth covering up until the advent of usable plastics after WWII and plastic coatings on consumer products came along later than that I would say early 50's is when plastic insulated wiring came along. The conductors (wires) should be rubber insulated, and the pair is fabric insulated. Or are you talking a home that has two individual conductors that are ran on old spool type insulators, those are at the dawn of home electrical wiring and it depends on the fixture you have. If the conductors are paired and individually rubber coated, but the outer sheath is a fiberglass type materiel it could be as new as about 1950.

Q:I live in a building that was built in 1928. Much of the original wire is still in use, Recently, I tried to install a new ceiling fixture but the wire was so old that when I touched the cloth insulation some of it literally turned to dust. (As a result, I called an electrician to replace the wire and install the light.) In the early 1970s, the building was upgraded with circuit breakers and some new wire, but does the old wire need to be replaced? Is it a fire hazard?: Well, nothing lasts forever, and that pixie dust from your old cloth-covered wires is suggesting the end is near for your old wiring. The good news is that the first big step, new 'service panel has been done, and I'll guess included some new runs for the kitchen and whatever. I'll also guess that there's still active knob tube wiring to bedrooms and lighting (like the one that got your attention - and a good choice on pro repair). As systems changed over the years, kt was still accepted for some circuits, as it was quite safe for lighting if in good shape. By now, however, insurance coverage, if not local code may no longer allow it. It's also not adequate for receptacles, having no ground. And, with so much less use of electricity way back, it's common to find just one or two ungrounded receptacles in a room that would have a half-dozen 'grounded if built today. 'Nuff on that. Here's more info, interesting:

Q:I have a chandelier that has been rewired, and one that has not been rewired. Both have DC electrical wires have ridges down one side and not the other. Now I would think that whether or not a chandelier is originally wired or rewired, if the type of electrical wire that is used is the same, the answer would be the same; a half ribbed wire is a half ribbed wire, right? I asked a question previously about which side of a half-ribbed wire was positive and which side was negative, and one of the answers I got was, The ribbed side is supposed to be the hot or neutral side. I do not trust other peoples wiring so I always test it with a meter.Ok, so now I am wondering about this phrase other people's wiring and how a person can possibly change the positive to a negative inside a premanufactured wire. Can someone explain this to me please?: I assume your chandeliers are hanging from the ceiling, attached to an octagonal metal electrical box in the ceiling itself. The wiring coming into that box from your circuit breaker box should contain three wires: a black one, which is hot, a white one, which is neutral, and a bare copper wire, which is ground, and attached to the box with a screw. The metal cap on the chandelier that goes over the electrical box will connect to ground by means of its own screws, as will all other metal parts (the chain, the bulb sockets). Two wires will come from the chandelier itself to connect to the black and white wires in the box. If the chandelier has been rewired properly, one of these wires would connect to the bases of all the bulb sockets. The other wire would connect to the threaded part of all the bulb sockets. This is called a parallel connection, putting all the bulb sockets at the same voltage as the line (110V). It really doesn't matter whether the wiring to the socket bases is all ribbed or not, as long as the connections were made correctly. The wiring used is probably standard two-conductor lamp cord, where one conductor is ribbed and one isn't, but this is mainly to keep track of the circuit. A good electrician would, after pulling the two wires apart, use all-ribbed wire for, say, the lamp socket bases, and all non-ribbed wire for the lamp socket thread connections, but this isn't really necessary. All this wiring is AC, not DC wiring, by the way.

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