• Axial Split Chemical Pumps The Green One System 1
  • Axial Split Chemical Pumps The Green One System 2
Axial Split Chemical Pumps The Green One

Axial Split Chemical Pumps The Green One

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 pc
Supply Capability:
1000 pc/month

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Axial Split Chemical Pumps The Green OneDouble suction pump 
Pump complies to API610 API682 
Pump capacity:65~16000 
Pump Head:10~215m 
Pump Max. pressure:1.6MPa 

Double suction pump 
Pump complies to API610 API682 
Pump capacity:65~16000 
Pump Head:10~215m 

 

Introduction:

This double suction pump product is foot mounted, single-stage and double suction with axial split structure.

Its inlet flange and outlet flange are arranged at the lower part of the body, paralel with the axis. Therefore, the rotor can be easily taken out for overhaul, unnecessary to remove pipes, valves and motor.

 

Mechanical seal: according to customer's requirements

1. Mechanical seal---171(A) mechanical seal (this kind of seal is the national-patented product, patent No. ZL92 2 20977.4 )  single or dual MS.

2. Dynamic seal.

3. Packing gland seal.

4. Other brands.

Coupling: pin type coupling

 

 Application:

Water supply and water treatment industry

Paper-making industry

Heating devices of power plants, thermal power plants and pipeline networks

Fire protection systems

Seawater salt production


Q: my water pump has gone south on me and I want to repair it myself any ideas on how to will be greatly appreciated, do to space between the water pump of the engine and the chasi or body of the van that makes working on thi vehicle kind of difficult any knoledgeable instruction will be welcome. thanks for the help. I am in California,the name is Elmer
drain cooling system, remove the fan belt. Remove the lower radiator hose, Remove nut from both front motor mounts. Remove alternator. Disconnect power steering pump pressure hose. Disconnect heater outlet tube from waterpump. Remove AC compressor front bracket, leaving compressor in place. jack up left side of motor about 5 inches. Remove waterpump bolts and nuts. Remove the drive belt tensioner pulley. remove the power steering pump with the hose still attached to it. and position it off to the side. Now remove the waterpump and gasket! reinstall in reverse order. This is taken from the Mitchell Repair Software.
Q: there is a knocking noise coming from the water pump pulley..i think, the pulley also wiggles when its running. If that's what is wrong, how long do i have to fix it and is it hard and expensive to fix?
No it isn't hard to fix, first loosen the little bolts on the water pump pulley, then take the belt off, then unbolt the water pump and take pulley off old pump, clean off old seal from block, put on new seal, you may have to use gasket maker or silicone, install new pump, and bolt pulley on to new pump, then reinstall belt. Oh I forgot you will have to drain the antifreeze before you start, and refill it after you are done! Start the car and let it warm up and look for leaks, if you see a leak you didn't get it sealed properly and will have to repeat the sealing process and antifreeze. Takes an hour or so to do!
Q: Who can tell me such water pump medium flow direction should be what kind of, from left to right, or from right to left, is low into the higher?
In the picture, to the right is the entrance, the left is the exit, the water pump inlet channel section area generally will be bigger than the export.
Q: how do you check the water pump? We started the engine with water running through the bunny ears and no water is running out.
There should be with muffs even if the impeller is bad check the thermostat or drop the foot and check the impeller.
Q: i was coming home from from work and my jeep thew the serpenteen belt and my water pump is the only pulley not moving good like the rest and is leaking coolent. and people with just dump **** to say dont comment on this
1st off juan needs to get a life. now to help you .buy a haynes manual so you can go and do the removal and replacement of your water pump. step 1) remove the fan shroud 2) drain the coolant. make sure you do this so your critters won't drink it 3) remove the radiator. 4) remove the fan but do not remove the belt. this helps keep the fan from moving while you remove the bolts. if you have an electric fan remove this at the same time you remove the radiator 5) referring to the haynes manual remove any accessories that might be attached to the water pump 6) remove the pump. please refer to the haynes manual to insure you do the removal and re-instal correctly. oh yea, don't get fustrated . if you do just take a break. good luck and happy jeepin
Q: I have a 1 HP water pump that will pump water through a 1 and 1/2hose. What is the approx. GPM (just to have a reference) of a pump like this?
many times the water pumps are AC grant pumps. in AC grant, you could not exchange the enter voltage and hence the area of utilising a million hp pump as 0.5 hp does not upward push up. ofcouse you could utilise 0.5 of its potential to pump water however the relax 0.5 would be wasted as warmth capability or frictional loss. the element is a a million hp pump will consume a similar potential what ever potential u choose to apply it.
Q: I have an 1982 El Camino 305 small block and am having troubles with determining if it is the gasket or the pump. I can't quite locate a leak, but it seems to centralize from the water pump and drip down the hose to the radiator. After my engine gets hot, which mind you my temp light has never turned on, and I shut of my car steam rolls out from behind my pump. I think it is the pump and please be it so. (Easier and cheaper fix. Replacement with a inexpensive part XP.)
There should be a weep hole on your water pump from where the antifreeze will be leaking if the seal is gone. Clean it up real good and try to see if that is where it is leaking from. Also check the thermostat gasket. If I remember correctly it is located above and just behind the water pump on a 305.
Q: I have a Honda Accord, and last week I replaced the Radiotor, due to a leak. This week the Water pump broke, it was making a ver loud noise and major leak, when I opened the rad, basically all the fluid was drained.Do you think the two are related? or do you think when the Rad was replaced it was not done properly which caused the water pump to break?Thanks.
If your radiator went then it is highly likely that regular maintenance ie rad flushing, fluid changes have not been taking place. Water pump will have nothing to do with the rad, unless when rad was leaking you ran vehicle with no lubrication (water-antifreeze mix) to water pump. The pump will just seize up or crack. These issues are probably just age related. If the rad was defective or you had coolant issues, the lights on your dash would indicate low fluid engine overheat of course you wouldn't drive it then. Everybody knows what a dummy light is for, right.
Q: I have a 2000 A4 1.8 T with 91 k miles on it. I went to the dealer for my oil service. I told them that I hear a quot;clinkingnoise when I start the car and that it goes away after the car runs for 5 minutes. I told them to check this also. They diagnosed and said that the water pump has gone bad and needs to be replaced. Since it was close to 105 K miles, I might as well change the timing belt. Total charges for both is 1250. And they also see that Cam Seals starting to leak oil. Since I was doing the timing belt, I might as well change them too. Additional cost to do them is 950. So the total for all three comes down to 2200. I bought the car at 90 K and checked it at Firestone and they said it was cool. They noticed an oil leak but said it was not anything major that needs to be taken care of right away. Do you think the dealer is taking me for a ride here? I just drove 500 miles and would things go this bad all of a sudden? Or should I make the replacements? Please advise.
Do you mean US Dollars? I mean, the prices you've mentioned are just insane! Even for an A4 the parts shouldn't cost more than two or three hundred dollars in total...And there is no way that the labour should be that much. I think you're being over-quoted by 200 or 300 percent! I'd say get another quote. Hopefully one of the ace mechanics on here can give you more precise figures but you are definitely being taken for a ride... EDIT: I just did web search and there are reputable traders offering a kit with the timing belt, tensioner and so on and a new water pump for about $240 all up. The seals aren't more than fifty dollars. Actually I just found a genuine replacement water pump on OKorder for $70, so I'd recommend you do some searching...(I can't post links to dealers because I can get reported for spamming for that, but if you google (that's a verb! lol!) A4 1.8 T with 2000 and water pump you'll find several suppliers.)
Q: I recently got the water pump replaced on a 99 Oldsmobile Intrigue GL (3.5L V6), and ever since the temperature gage seems to be running higher...between half way and the 3rd line, where before it was replaced it never got above the second line. It is doing this when I slow down and stop at lights. Once I get going the temperature does drop. Is this normal, or did they do something wrong?
It means the fan isn't working. No air is going through the radiator at low speeds.

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