Garage Laminate Flooring

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FAQ

Used an Ofla blade to cut underlayment ontop of the new engineered hard wood i just layed down last week. (i know stupid move, i know) Is there anyway to get rid of the cut mark? i just cut into the top layer of finish so its just showing a white line. It's about 4 ft long, super thin, but you can defiantly notice a thin white line. Any home remedies or stuff i could ask for at my local store?

check at Home Depot or Lowes they carry products for small repairs. In the flooring section.

Composite solid wood flooring and laminate flooring their respective advantages and disadvantages

But the parquet wood flooring is classified into two categories about 1, multi-layer parquet parquet is composed of multilayer plywood, made of high quality wood as a rare tree laminated panel. The panel is usually divided into thin plate (0.3-0.6mm) and (1.5-3.0mm) two, as the general sheet, there is also the whole plate, insert into. Compared with the traditional solid wood parquet floor, because the structure solves the problem of anisotropic floor strength and swell shrinking performance, so it has better dimensional stability, but also preserves the natural wood and wood floors Juegan comfortable

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In the selection of composite flooring, we must ensure that the main indicators qualified. These indicators and national standards for the:1, thickness swelling: thickness of the water quality expansion rate below 2.5%; first-class goods thickness swelling value below 4.5%. Water bubbles, water quality is poor.2, the surface wear resistance: the floor because there is no wear layer or wear resistance is very low and is known as false floor, this floor surface and the true composite floor is no differenceAfter sanding several times, it will be found that the decorative pattern has been polished and white. This floor is false floor.

The year before the shop's solid wood floor, in the restaurant, the study of some of the surface of the floor, there is a small piece of transparent uplift, as if there is a bubble in the inside, with the hand can be pulled under the transparent coating, coating is very brittle. Is this coating a wax on the floor or a protective coating on the surface? After these coatings have gone off, there are a lot of marks on the floor. What should we do? Looking for a professional cleaning company to re waxing can solve it?

This transparent coating is the floor wax if it is not a varnish

I have a very old home that is on blocks. It was built with a 1 x 3 pine plank floor with no sub-floor. I recently remodeled and installed felt paper over the old planks then a polyfoam underlayment pad with an engineered wood floor on top. After several weeks the original wood plank floor began to cup and buckle underneath from moisture. I have now removed the expensive new flooring and am at a loss of what underlayment to use. I suspect that my problem was either evaporation from under the house or condensation from the polyfoam pad. Any suggestions?

I agree w/ sw that you need to put an additional 3/4 tongue and groove flooring down. But you put it at 90 degrees to the old 1x3. Unless the 1x3 is put on a diagonal to begin with, which I ve seen done in older houses. Then you put the new ply perpendicular to the joists below putting all end seams splitting the joists. I disagree with a poly foam for a standard engineered wood floor. Unless this is a floating floor system. Nail down systems you just use a rosin paper or felt paper under the wood. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar. GL

Multi layer solid wood flooring shop, there are some parts of the larger gap, has been three winter, and what reason? I bought a living home floor.

Multilayer solid wood floor surface layer is 3-8m thick wood skin (usually a ring cutting, multilayer veneer veneer) bottom crisscross adhesive used compression bonding. The utility model is characterized in that the utility model has the decorative effect of the solid wood floor, compared with the solid wood floor, the utility model has the advantages of small deformation, better stability and more economy. However, if the use of glue may exceed the formaldehyde content.

In flooring, which is better: solid hardwood or engineered hardwood?

Solid hardwood is much messier to install. Lots of sanding dust. It also takes longer before you can put furniture back on it (drying time plus curing time - usually a week depending on humidity). But then solid hardwood mellows with age and has a better look (IMHO). Engineered hardwood is less of a mess to install and you can move back in right away. The coating is done at the factory and is, therefore, more uniform and penetrates the wood better. Therefore, you should get better wear out of engineered hardwood. If it was me, I'd do solid hardwood if I was building, but engineered if I was remodelling (simply because it is less messy and you can move right back in)

I dont have a way to measure the thickness of the top layer but can you tell from this picture? and can this be sanded? My dogs have destroyed the surface and I'd like to refinish it when I put the house up for sale.

If your floor is TRULY engineered flooring and not laminate then the other answers are incorrect. Engineered flooring has a thin layer of wood (1/4 or less) bonded to a manufactured substrate. You CAN lightly sand it at least one time to remove light wear and superficial scratches. But if it is deeply damaged you will be out of luck. It is impossible to tell from the poor photos you posted what you actually have so I would recommend that you call a professional flooring refinisher to evaluate what might be possible in your case. Don't try sanding it yourself. It looks like you have some scraps of it in the photos. Take some medium grade sandpaper and try sanding the scraps deeply and see what happens. If it is laminate the woodgrain finish will vanish with very little sanding. If it is wood you will get some fine sawdust and the grain will continue in the lower layer. Again, the job is one for a pro, not yourself. In fact, your photos look more like laminate so this may be an impossible project from the get go. Why do you believe it is an engineered floor? Did you have it installed yourself?