wafer type F4 Lined Butterfly Valve with two bodies

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Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

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Quick Details

Standard or Nonstandard: Standard
Structure: Butterfly
Pressure: Low Pressure
Power: Manual
Material: CI/DI/SS/WCB
Temperature of Media: Normal Temperature
Media: Water
Port Size: DN50-1200mm
Place of Origin: Tianjin, China (Mainland)
Model Number: D7A1F46

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:	Standard export packaging: plywooden case. Or as per customers' requirements.
Delivery Detail:	within 15-30 days after receipt of L/C or 30% deposit by T/T

Specifications

1.(2"~48")
2.PN1.0/1.6
3.corrosion resistant
4.ISO, API, ASTM, ANSI, DIN, BS, JIS
5.handle,hand wheel,electric,pneumatic

Entirely PTFE lined butterfly valve

Features:

1. Small in size, light in weight, easy installation and maintenance.

2. Simple and compact construction, quick 90 degree on-off operation.

3. Minimized operating torque, energy saving.

4. Flow curve tending to straight line, excellent regulation performance.

5. Long service life, standing the test of tens thousands opening/closing operations.

6. BUbbles-tight sealing with no leakage ubder the pressure test.

7. Wide selection of materials, applicable to various medium.

Performance:

Nominal pressue (MPa)		1.0	1.6
Nominal diameter(mm)		50-1000	50-1000
Test pressure	Shell	1.5	2.4
(MPa)	Seal	1.1	1.76
Applicable temperature		150
Applicable medium		Fresh water, Sewage, Sea water, Air, Vapor, Food, Medicine, Oils, Acids, Alkalis, etc.
Operating mode		manual, worm gear, pneumatic, electric, etc.

Standard:

Design & Manufacture	Flange Connection	Face to Face Dimension	Test & Inspection
MSS SP-67 API609 EN593	DIN PN10/16/25; ANSI B 16.1 BS4504; ISO PN10/16 JIS B 2212/2213 BS 10 table D; BS 10 table E	API609 ISO5752 series 20 BS5155	API 598

Material List:

No.	Part Name	Material
1	Body	Carbon Steel/Stainless Steel/Cast Iron(GGG25)/Ductile Iron/ Al-Bronze
2	Disc	Al-Bronze/CF8M/Ductile iron/WCB
3	Seat	EPDM/PEFE/Buna/NBR/Hypalon
4	Stem	Carbon Steel/Stainless Steel314/Stainless Steel316
5	Bushing	PTFE/Lubricating
6	O ring	EPDM/PEFE/Buna/NBR/Hypalon
7	Pin	SS316/SS416/SS304

Q: My AC leaks and mechanic says it is shrader valve. Is it expensive?: A Schrader valve is a simple push valve used to keep pressure inside a container or system, while making it easy to add more pressure when required. The valve stems on your car's tires are Schrader valves. The PARTS to replace a valve are fairly cheap, but labor and materials to repair an AC system may run the bill up.

Q: After shutting off the hot and cold water lines to my washer to remove the unit from my laundry room i noticed a small leak coming from the hot water valve as if the valve is not completely closing. The valves themselves should be roughly 10 years old and were extremely tight when attempting to close them, my question is how big of a job is this to replace the water valve? Is it as simple as turning off the main water to the house and replacing the valve or are these typically soldered on? Currently i just ran the hose for the hot water to the drain line to prevent water from leaking onto the floor so is this something that is a fairly non issue once i hook the lines back up to the washer and turn them back on? Or is this something i should get addressed asap?: Of course, the best solution is to replace the valve. Valves are either soldered on or attached to the pipe with compression fittings. If the pipe is copper and you see a silver band of metal between the pipe and the valve, that's probably solder. In this case, it would be best to let a plumber replace the valve. Otherwise, if your valve is attached with a compression fitting, you can get a new valve at your local home improvement store in the plumbing section. I recommend getting a 1/4 turn, steel ball valve. These are very simple and reliable valves. When you remove the old valve, be sure to also remove the compression washer and shoulder nut as well. You'll want to use the new ones that come with your valve. I also recommend using Teflon tape to wrap the threads of your new valve, at least two times in the direction of nut tightening. This will reduce the chance of leakage through the threads. Tighten the compression washer between the valve and the shoulder nut snugly. Make sure the valve is off. Turn the water on and check for leaks. If you see periodic drips, tighten the shoulder nut until the dripping stops. The other cheap and dirty alternative is to get a cap for your existing valve. These are also available in the plumbing section of your home improvement store. They run about $2-3, I believe, and are threaded onto the faucet where your hose attaches. That will keep your leaking valve from dripping all over the place.

Q: Hi, I just got my 20 gallon freshwater aquarium yesterday and set it up today with the filter,water, pump,etc... I bought an AquaCulture 20-60 gallon double outlet air pump and didnt realize it had two valves. I only need to use one though ...what should I do??p.s. The bubbler thing that lets the bubbles out is a rectangle and its long but it isnt working in the middle of it...? would that be because of the double valve?p.p.s. the pump came with two check valves.Thanks, Sarah: If the pump doesn't come with any method to shut off one of the outlets, you can combine both outlets into one by using some tubing and a T-valve. You can also use an air valve and some tubing on the unneeded outlet to dead-end it, though that method may be a bit more stressful on the pump.

Q: okay, where the dome is on the head (where the flat part of the valves sit) the intake is uneven and the air+gas mixture escapes threw the open space when the piston goes up into the compression stage, and ignites shooting flames out of my exhaust port. the space is small but u can see light threw it when the valve sits there. Would some kind of Liquid metal work? or gas+heat resistant epoxy work to take the place of the missing space? I would file it but that would not be precise and time consuming, and i would buy a new head for $150, but the dealer doubles that price! and no way am i paying $300 for a new head. any comments would be well appreciated!: Get a valve job - cut the valve seats and lap the valves.

Q: It looks like our toilet water shut off valve is leaking. We are trying to turn off the water by turning the lever on the hot water heater, but this only turned off the hot water. So the cold water is still not turned off? We thought the one lever at the hot water heater would turn it all off, but it didn't work. Is there actually a separate water shut off valve for cold water in my house? Help!!: Every house should have a water meter and a shut off point close by. This will isolate ALL water cold and hot water included. With shut off valves, you can usually just take the guts out and replace them with the guts from a new one. Take a couple close up pics of your shut off valve and show them to a plumbing assistant at any DIY store such as Home Depot. They can find you the right product. In order to replace the guts, all you need is a larger crescent wrench and a set of channel lock pliers. I would recommend having a small bucket handy to catch any loose water. Prior to taking anything apart once youve shut the water off, I would run the cold water in a basement sink or main floor sink to reduce the pressure and water quantity.

Q: I acquired an old valve guitar amp not long ago and i think it needs new valves trouble is the valves that are in it have no writing left on them and there is one valve completely missing how can i find out what type of valves to put in it. Could i use a multi meter to see what voltage etc is going into the valve socket and then find a valve with matching voltage. Thanks for your help Marc: Go okorder and search for the schematic diagram for your amp(enter the brand and model of your amp)!

Q: It seems like the shutoff (stop) valve for the toilet is preventing my toilet tank from filling up for flushing. When I shut the valve, and open again, the water flows into the supply tube that flows into the tank for a few minutes. Afterward, the flow of water stops BEFORE filling the tank as if it lost pressure of water flow.I repeat the above (closing and opening valve) and does the same thing. (There is also no sign of leak...)What can I do? I'm hoping I don't have to call the plumber.: I think its the float in your toilet try pushing down in to the water and see if the flow begins again. If it does just readjust your float setting to the tank fill level you want

Q: Hi there - We have an old house with galvanized steel pipes. Our main water shut off valve leaks -- the leak is from the packing nut. A plumber came out yesterday and tightened it, and it now barely leaks at all, maybe one drip every 24-48 hours (which it probably has been doing for the 6 years we have lived here, we just didn't know when we bought the place). Rather than replacing the whole valve (which, apparently, has a high liklihood of breaking the pipes in the foundation, requiring jackhammering and whatnot), we are thinking of installing a new shut off valve higher up on the pipe, where I guess it's less likely to break. If we go for the second valve, is there a way to close up that old valve (hydraulic cement, tape, solder, etc.), so it doesn't leak at all? The tiny leak is coming from the stem of the handle - can we remove the handle and cap it off or something? (And thanks to those of you who answered my husband's question about the pipes yesterday!): There is a very simple fix to your problem. Get some teflon tape, turn off the valve, back off the packing nut all the way, twirl the tape into a thread (about 4 to 5), wrap it around the stem, reinstall the nut and snug it up. Done! While there is special graphite packing for this purpose, it is usually hard to find and works no better than the tape. You can apply a small amount of vasaline to the stem before you put on the tape to make the valve operate more easily. Only tighten the nut enough to keep it from dripping or it may become hard to open and close. You can easily add a second valve by removing the pipe above the old one and installing a piece of copper with a valve inline. Some will say you need to worry about electrolysis if you screw an adapter into the existing galvanized but I am sure you will replace the old pipe before that is an issue 20 years from now. Good Luck!

Q: What is a valve adjustment? I wanted to do one on my 1994 Honda civic ex cuz my friends told me I should do one but I wanted to know howmuch will it cost? And what will it do to my car in performance and gas consumption? My car right now has 155k miles.: Leave it alone. Besides at 155k a Civic is junk not worth spending money on.

Q: My brother is 32 years old.He has an enlarged heart ,a murmur,high blood pressure and heart regurgitation.He may be having the valve replacement surgery.I was wondering if anyone has had these things wrong with them and had the valve surgery and did well afterwards.Any information would be very much appreciated.: Guy I work with just had 2 valves replaced. He honestly didn't know anything was a matter until he collapsed at work. They ran some tests and figured out that was his problem. Talked to him a few days after his surgery and he said he hasn't felt this good in a long time. Its a common procedure nowadays, and your brother should most definitely be in good hands. Keep us informed, and best of luck to you both!

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