• SLS vertical inline monoblock pump System 1
SLS vertical inline monoblock pump

SLS vertical inline monoblock pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
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Supply Capability:
3000 unit/month

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Production outline
Model SLS single-stage single-suction vertical centrifugal pump is a high-effective energy-saving product successfully designed by means of adopting the property data of IS model centrifugal pump and the unique merits of vertical pump and strictly in accordance with ISO2858 world standard and the latest national standard and an ideal product to replace IS horizontal pump, DL model pump etc. ordinary pumps.The flow range is 1.5 -2400m³/h and the head range 4.5~160m and there are basic type, by-pass type, A B C cutting type etc. more than 250 specifications. And per the different flow medium and temperature, SLR hot-water pump, SLH chemical pump and SLY(YG) oil pump and SLHY vertical non-explosive chemical pump. etc. Series products. of the same type and same proprty data have been designed and made.
Product feature and advantage
1.Compact structure, small volume, beautiful outlook.The lower barycenter of the vertical structure which coincides with the center of the pump feet strengthens the stability of running and the duration.
2.Easy to mount. Because of the same apertures of both inlet and outlet which also locate on the same central line, the pump can be directly mounted on any part of the pipeline just as a valve. The motor is covered with a rainproof cap so that operation can be done outdoors. Mounting feet are equipped with the pump so that it can be stably mounted.
3.Stable running, low noise, high concentricity of components. Bearings of low noise are used for the motor, the impellers are of best dynamic and static balance, no vibration at running and the environment thus being improved.
4.No leakage. The shaft is mechaically sealed with carbide alloy wearable material, settling the serious leakage of the filling seal of a centrifugal pump, extending the duration and ensuring the operation place clean and tidy.
5.Easy to maintain. Not necessary to remove the pipeline for check-out and maintenance, only to take out the nuts on the pump lid, the motor and the driving components.
6.The pump, according to the operation condition of the worksite, may be vertically, horizontally etc. multiways mounted and also according to the requirements for the flow and stroke, mounted in parallel and/or in series to increase the needed flow and head.

Q:I had a re-manufactured water pump installed and after 14 months I started smelling my radiator occasionally. Never suspected the pump since my original pump lasted 60,000 miles and was still fine when they replaced it feigning quot;it is customary to replace water pump with timing beltwhen in actuality my Hyundai Elantra just needs the pump checked every 60,000 miles. The re-manufactured water pump was diagnosed leaking for sure after 20 months. Anyway I believe the leaking pump which didn't get discovered for at least 4 to 6 months caused the early demise of my radiator. Does that make sense?Thanks,Mitzi
i strongly disagree. a leaky pump, loosing fluid, replaced by air via a recovery system, will create excess water jacket pressures. ergo, the radiator. even if it has air trapped in it. that excessive pressure, if the rad is marginal/old, can cause rad leaks. any seasoned mechanic out there has experienced a vehicle that had air in it, and be so hot as to charge the system. on some, you can actually here them go bang as water/coolant, flows into a part of the systems that has just air. that sends pressure shock waves through out the system. i've experience some so hot, they won't shut off. dieseling per say. ---------- EDIT, Michael sir. i'm an ex fighter jet hydraulic/pneumatic tech USAF. 40 yr auto mechanic. 5 yrs on Harley's (iron blocks). been dealing with the use of compressed fluids and gas for some time now. ex boeing employee on the 747 as well. i just don't ahve all that in my profile. mostly, i just let facts speak for themselves. weather or not an OP see's that is up to them. --------- pressure can built up faster than it can be bleed off in *some* cases. especially if it's a slow leak. those were generic statements. meaning, they are a possibility. not out of the realm of possibility, and would be far from the first time it ever happened, that a bad pump can cause other parts of the coolant system to malfunction. i've seen marginal rads, hoses, and even heater cores go as a result of over pressureazation of the water jacket. but i meant no disrespect here. i will delete my seasoned mechanic remark. simply stating i have seen/experienced, in the shop, over the years, many instances like what i stated. it's not impossible!!! i'll delete all this crap too if you delete your remark. how bout it? friends?
Q:I have had this water pump changed 2 times in 5 years is this normal for this car? It has a v6 motor.
no it is not normal for most cars but maybe yours it is..
Q:My Camry is overheating and I am assuming it is the water pump. I already changed the thermostat and that was no help. When I turn the heater on to cool off the engine, it blows cold air or the temp of the air outside most of the time and seldomly hot air. I bought a water pump, but I am not sure if this is something I can do?
Step 1: Find a man
Q:A pump parameter is the maximum flow per hour 960L, followed by the standard flow of 480 what do you mean?
According to my estimate, a pump has the best working point, then this standard flow I think should refer to the best working point, that is to say you want to flow 480l/h, choose this pump is best
Q:Stop the engine immediately and stop the circulating pump and the condensate pump. What's the harm to the turbine?
The condensed water is also used to air pumping device, steam seal cooler as cooling water, according to rules of turn.The circulating water is also used to supply cooling water to the oil cooler, and the oil temperature will rise.Hazard: exhaust pipe, condensate pipe will burst tube, low pressure cylinder rising temperature for deformation, rotor (shaft seal) may be deformed.
Q:1997 Caravelle 1900BR3.0L HO Volvo PentaSX Cobra OutdriveI have a small leak coming from my raw water pump, it is not a continuous stream just a drop every now and then. The best I can tell it is coming from between the shaft and water pump housing. Is there just a small o-ring there? How can this be fixed?We're going to the lake for Memorial Day Weekend. Will I be alright with the small drip for over the weekend? Then I'll fix it when I can get the parts.
Could be any one of a few things. If you're brave enough to taste it (just get some on your finger and touch the tip of your tongue), then you'll be able to tell if it's rainwater or engine coolant, which tastes sweet. If it's coolant, then your heater has a leak. More likely today is rainwater getting in round the windscreen seal or the sunroof, if it has one. Leaks are very difficult to trace and you might have to wait for a dry day, then remove all the carpets and sit in the car while someone aims a powerful jetwash around suspect areas.
Q:I have replaced the presure switch on my water pump but it switches on and off when it is building up presure instead on staying on until it gets to right presure.Any ideas of what is causing this?
RW is partially right you need to check the pressure switch which is the little black or greay box with the wires running in and out.It should say either 20/40 or 30/50 the pressure needs to be 2 pounds less than the lower number.Turn off the water and bleed the tank down then adjust he air with a tire pump and an air gauge
Q:PROline Dishwasher has Broken down, after a detailed Examination of the appliance we have managed to conclude it is the Water Pump, I'm looking to find a new one to repair it myself but would like to know if any make one would fit, as Finding a PROline Water Pump has proven Great Difficulty, Any Knowledge of the matter would be greatly appreciated, Thank you
Unless you are sure that the problem is the water pump, you might want to check the hose to make sure it isn't clogged up and not allowing the water to drain out correctly. If you do need to change the pump, you will most likely have to replace it with the same pump. If you haven't done so, try going on line and enter your dishwasher make, model, and enter water pump and see what you can come up with. If your washer is an older model, it is possible it is no longer being made and it might be difficult to find parts for it. You might also try calling around in your local area to some appliance stores and ask them about finding the part or where you might find the part. You could also contact a repair service and just ask them if they can find the part for you if you are going to fix it yourself. If the pumps are still being made, any appliance repair service should be able to get you the part. If you can find a store that sells that brand of washer, they to should be able to get the pump for you to.
Q:I have a 2000 A4 1.8 T with 91 k miles on it. I went to the dealer for my oil service. I told them that I hear a quot;clinkingnoise when I start the car and that it goes away after the car runs for 5 minutes. I told them to check this also. They diagnosed and said that the water pump has gone bad and needs to be replaced. Since it was close to 105 K miles, I might as well change the timing belt. Total charges for both is 1250. And they also see that Cam Seals starting to leak oil. Since I was doing the timing belt, I might as well change them too. Additional cost to do them is 950. So the total for all three comes down to 2200. I bought the car at 90 K and checked it at Firestone and they said it was cool. They noticed an oil leak but said it was not anything major that needs to be taken care of right away. Do you think the dealer is taking me for a ride here? I just drove 500 miles and would things go this bad all of a sudden? Or should I make the replacements? Please advise.
change the water pump and the timing belt. the belts on any car should be changed at 100000 miles. make them show you the water pump and explain what the problem was with it.as far as the cam seals just keep an eye on them and keep the oil checked.a little oil leak is no big deal with that many miles. go to your local parts store and ask them about oil addittives that might help recondition the seals.
Q:Hey for the past month my car has been leaking coolant, making a wierd noise when i drive it, and saying low coolant when its filled to the top.my husband took it out to get gas this morning and it stopped on him and had to be towed to the mechanicthe mechanic said its the water pump and somethin about anti freeze and this cost almost 300 bucks with parts and laborim just wanting to know if a water pump does indeed cause issues like this before we dish out this kinda money!!! btw its a 96 chevy luminathanks
It's not will a bad water pump cause your car to overheat, it's a bad water pump WILL cause your car to overheat. It circulates the heated water from your engine block to the radiator to be cooled and back to the engine. Stop moving the heat away from the engine, overheated engine. A bad water pump can have several symptoms. There can be a noisy, ratteling sound coming from the pump when the car is running, there can be water actually leaking out of the pump, or in a worst case, the pump will freeze up and throw the fan belt. The water pump has a metal impeller spinning inside of the housing. Over time, the bearings or sleeve can wear out something gets inside of the pump and damages the impeller blades. There is no proper way to repair a water pump, it must be replaced. Like all moving parts in a vehicle, they will wear out over time. If you can't tell if it is leaking or damaged, I recommend taking it to a mechanic and letting them take a look. They can tell you if it needs to be replaced and (hold onto your wallet) how much it will cost.

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