In-line Pump

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In-line Pump

Product overview：

DFG series pump the motor and pump are joined directly without transmission parts.So they oprate smoothly. The inlet and outlet can be fixed anywhere like valves in pipeline. Compared with common horizontal pumpDFG series can decrease 30 percent floor space. Besides, they feature smooth operation and lower noise etc.The life of damageable parts is prolonged.In conclusion,this series pump are favored in market because of their smooth operation, high efficiency, less energy consumption, small floor space and compact structure.

Applications:

Water supply in industry,cities and high rises

Fire fighting pipeline pressurizing

Cold and hot water circulation in air-condition

Transport water from far away

Pressurizing transport in industrial circulation system, and all kinds of water supply equipments,boliers etc.

Operating conditions and range:

Capacity range:2-1400 m3/h

Head range:5-130m

Pressure max: ≤ 1.6 Mpa

Liquid temp:-15 ℃<T<105 ℃

Ambient temp:≤ 40℃

Protect class: IP54 or IP55

Insulation class: F

Q:We had to have our well pump replaced yesterday, how long before the well settles down, and the water tastes like it used to?The company who replaced the pump told us when changing a pump it disturbs the well, and it would take time for everything to settle back into place. Thank you in advance for any and all suggestions.: Something seems a little fishy here besides the smell of the water. 1) Replacing the pump will do nothing to keep your well from being sucked dry unless the pump was sunk lower in the well. 2) A space is left between the bottom of the pump and the bottom of the well so that you have a place for sediment to settle, anywhere from 10' to 50'. 3) If you sink the pump lower you are placing it in the sediment area and will keep sucking up sediment until its level is drawn down. 4) Water literally flows thru the well and unless your well casing was damaged or the walls below it are collapsing it would be difficult to stir up anything. Apparently what they have done is to lower the pump pipe causing the pump to sit in the available sediment area. If you run the pump enough you will eventually suck the sediment down out of the bottom of the well. However, you will have less of a sump left and you will draw more sediment out of the well from now on. The only permanent solution to your problem was to drill the well deeper. I have recent firsthand experience with this both professionally (customers wells) and personally (my own well). The water will clear up but it may take some time and quite a bit of flow but from now on you will draw more particulates out of your well. Your cheapest and best solution is to invest in a filter to go inline after your pressure tank. They run about $70 plus installation and will need the filters changed between 1 and 6 months depending on how turbid your water is. Good Luck!

Q:To express in writing, you can add appropriate pictures (composition form, preferably 600 or more, not enough, OK, I put together a bit, will give points!) What kind of person would you help me with?: You should go to the water pump factory visit, than to a vivid books. General settings are specific parameters - three view - model making - modification - Roughing - semi finishing - finishing - material quenching - heat treatment - carburizing - Black - assembly - spray painting - Inspection - Labelling - packaging.

Q:i already removed all bolts including the fan except for the last bolt on the water pump which the serpentine belt rides on the bolt backs into that so i am trying to find out how to get the bolt from the serpentine belt pulley off do i have to pull the serpentine pully off and if so how there is no bolt or allen holding the serpentine pully onim just trying to replace the water pump: If the pulley is bolted from behind, the bracket has four bolts that mounts it to the block, you need to find those bolts remove the pulley/bracket assembly. If it is a 3800 engine you might need the plastic elbow from the bracket to the the intake manifold also. Coolant flows through that elbow to the heater hoses. poor design, I know but what are you gonna do? Got to love tose engineers LOL. Good luck

Q:I took my car to a repair shop today, cause it was overheating,After looking at it for a few minutes the mechanic told me that it was a water pump problem.They quoted me a price of $276 to totally replace itI called around to my local auto zone stores and found out that the actuall pump cost for a new pump was $39 dollars, and I can get rebuilt pumps for 19 bucks, Is it that labor intensive that it would take so long to put in a 39 dollar part for over 200 bucks labor. Is that a fair deal, or am I getting ripped off.Additional Details, I didn't let them do the job yet, I took the vehicle home and just parked it in my driveway.: It depends on the car. Also, the shop was probably quoting you a factory new part. Just get a couple of quotes from different shops. On a Lexus LS430, water pump is a major job, over $1000 at a dealer. On a 60's GM car, it's about 90 minutes of work if you take your time, so there might be the difference.

Q:I am having overheating issues with my 1993 3.4L V6 Camaro,Once I start the car with no AC or Heat on while at idle or driving the car will overheat, almost to the red line. When I get onto the highway it will slowly drop all the way down to operating tempeture.Also if I turn on either the AC or Heat while driving around town the car will not overheat.On my way home I turned everything off and let the car overheating, when I got home I opened the hood and the fans are going but still overheating.Also the major sympton is that the water pump will click on and off when I have AC blowing. It will click on and off every 10 seconds or so.New waterpump?: I should change the water pump. The vains or fins in the housing are probably worn. You will see that they are when you pull off and flip it over. Those fins is what keeps the water moving......Steve

Q:my nissan 1993 maxima SEthe AC is not cold at all this year it ran perfect the year beforecan the water pump pressure really affect the AC?how much should a new water pump cost for my car?: The water cooling system for the engine (radiator, water pump, hoses, etc.) is completely separate from the air conditioning system. The water pump moves water from the radiator (where the water is cooled off) to the engine where the water travels through tubes in the block, picking up heat (cooling the block) and then returns to the radiator. A failing water pump would not cause burning antifreeze. It would cause overheating by not moving the water, or not moving it fast enough. The smell of antifreeze in the exhaust (a sweet smell) usually makes me think of a failed head gasket or a cracked block. The water is somehow getting into the combustion chambers from the tubes in the block. If the engine has been overheated it is not unusual for the head gasket to blow or for the block to be damaged. Take your car to a reputable mechanic - not a buddy who works on his own car in the back yard. Ask friends and family who they go to and what they have experienced. There are good, honest mechanics out there. Find one and have him check out the car. Pay him for his training and experience. It will be cheaper in the long run than going to the cheaper guy working in his driveway.

Q:i got that special socket but everytime i try to loosen the pump going clockwise i can not get the pump to come loose the socket just slips off any suggestions these is a northstar engine: The tool you need is the kent moore design one. it has a bracket that bolts on and helps hold that socket that you call it snug against the pump..one other thing look at the new pump to determine the direction it loosens because i do not remember,also we have only one tool and its worked on all northstar engines so far

Q:I've searched the net but cannot find exactly what I'm looking for and hoping someone out there can steer me in the right direction! Maybe I'm not looking in the right place....or do I have to fabricate my own? I'm up for the challenge!1) Trying to source a water pump that I'm going to power by HAND or a BICYCLE. 2) My choice of pump to give a continuous stream of water (very important) is a rotary (centrifugal) type or is there something else capable of a continuous output?3) This will NOT BE USED for potable water. SPECS:a) lightweight but durable, the smaller, the better. b) low RPM, high volume output and capable of producing/handling pressure. c) self-primingd) able to handle some small particulates in the water as I am using rain water. (from outside, NOT filtered, so the following may be present: bugs, dust, etc...) Thank you, in advance, for your help and would be nice to thank the individual(s) for a unique answer to my request at a later date so let me know you're preferred method of contact!: There are very small rotary water pumps designed to be driven with hand-held electric drills. These pumps may be purchased in some hardware stores or farm supply stores. One could be adapted to a bicycle- type drive. Small pumps have about a 50% efficiency so you would need to produce sustained muscle power applied at around 150-200 watts to achieve 75 -100 watts of effective hydraulics. Applied watts = (GPM) (PSI) / 1.277 million (eff.) Where eff. is as a decimal. Edit : A 3/8 drill will pull about 280 watts. I can do 200 watts on an exercise bike, but not for long. I am a 79 heart patient, so you can probably do better..

Q:I replaced the water pump on my 350 chevy small block with a new water pump and the thing is leaking out of the lower bolt hole on the passenger side. I was told to remove the bolt and coat it with permatex hi tack gasket sealer and reinstall it Any how I'm wondering why there would be a leak there in the first place, any ideas?: i would try getting a new gasket and make sure you seal it really good and make sure the bolts are tightened really good

Q:I recently got the water pump replaced on a 99 Oldsmobile Intrigue GL (3.5L V6), and ever since the temperature gage seems to be running higher...between half way and the 3rd line, where before it was replaced it never got above the second line. It is doing this when I slow down and stop at lights. Once I get going the temperature does drop. Is this normal, or did they do something wrong?: If you had it done at a shop take it back. Alot things can make a car run hotter. Could be as simple as an air pocket in the cooling system or a leaking head/intake gasket. Did you over heat the engine when the water pump went out? If so the temp sending unit could be bad.

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