Non-rising Stem Resilient Seated Gate Valve DN150
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Type: | Non-Rising Stem |
Material: | Body: Cast Iron / Ductile Iron Wedge: Cast Iron / Ductile Iron Encapsulated with EPDM Seat: EPDM / NBR Shaft: SS410 Stem Nut: Brass O-ring: EPDM, NBR Wedge Nut: Brass / Bronze Hand Wheel: Ductile Iron
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Operator: | Hand Wheel / Bevel Gearing / Square head / Electric actuator |
Face to Face: |
BS5163: 1986, DIN 3202 F4-F5, JIS B2002, ANSI B16.10
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Flange: | BS4504, DIN 2532, JIS B2212, ANSI B16.10/ANSI B16.50
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Working Pressure: | 16 Bar(200 PSI) |
Design and Manufacturer Standard : | BS5163, DIN 3352, JIS B2043 |
Test Standard: | API 598 BS6755 DIN 3230 JIS B2003 |
Application: | Water works, Sewage, Public facilties, Building industry, Petroleum, Chemical, Steel, Metallurgy, Paper Making Industry, Foods, Beverage, HVAC |
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- Q: I am looking at getting a baritone horn of my own, but am not sure what compensating versus non-compensating valves are?
- A compensating valve instrument has valves that send the air through two sets of tubing. For example a double French horn has slides for the F side and the Bb side. In a normal horn the air goes through the F side when you are playing the F side and the Bb side when you are playing that side. In a compensating horn when you play the F side the air goes through both sets of slides. It's a way of making the horn lighter and simpler.
- Q: my pcv valve tube is broken in half I replaced it with a rubber hose does it have to be whole
- pcv valve does not hepl transmission inany way it stands for positive crackshaft ventilation pcv valve is for emissions only it does nothing for transmission should be replaced on most cars every 48000 km, i would'nt worry about a pcv valve..
- Q: Hi, I just got my 20 gallon freshwater aquarium yesterday and set it up today with the filter,water, pump,etc... I bought an AquaCulture 20-60 gallon double outlet air pump and didnt realize it had two valves. I only need to use one though ...what should I do??p.s. The bubbler thing that lets the bubbles out is a rectangle and its long but it isnt working in the middle of it...? would that be because of the double valve?p.p.s. the pump came with two check valves.Thanks, Sarah
- You only need to use the one valve, each valve will do 10-30 gallons so you'll be fine. As to the bubbler problem (sounds like a bubble brick to me, so that's what I'll call it), it's most likely uneven. If the brick isn't level it won't let out as much air in the right places. If leveling it doesn't work try adjust how much air goes into it, but the double valve won't be the problem for this. It came with two check valves for the two outlets, you only need to use one.
- Q: My vehicle has 160,000 miles and has burned 2 quarts of oil at 3000 miles. Someone told me to change the PCV valve because sometimes a bad PCV valve can cause oil consumption. I appreciate your assistance.
- A PVC valve, or anything else for that matter, for a vehicle with 160,000 miles on it that's losing that much oil is probably a bad investment... A rebuilt motor might be a good investment if the rest of the vehicle is sound. If you're not willing to do that, any other shiny new part you put on will end up in the junk yard.
- Q: My third valve is always sticking, despite the fact that I oil them thoroughly every other day. It scrapes the sides of the case when I take it out/put it in, it's almost as if the valve is too big for it. Often times it will stick and I'll have to unscrew it and physically pull it out for it to be functional again.I've inspected it, and the inside looks just like the others which are fine. I've tried washing it, oiling it, and putting a trace amount of vaseline on it. What is the problem?
- Have you tried cleaning the valve casing (what the valve moves in)? If not, you can use a clean cloth that won't leave fibers in there, or a valve casing brush (couple dollars at the music store) to clean the inside. Many times dirt builds up at the bottom of the valve casing where it's supposed to and the valve eventually gets stuck in it. Also, like the poster above said, the plastic/metal guide could be getting caught. You can use slide grease to lubricate the slot in the top part of the valve (not the casing) where the guide moves. Just don't get any on the piston part of the valve. If all else fails, it is possible that the valve was not honed correctly at the factory and a professional will need to fix it.
- Q: Hi there - We have an old house with galvanized steel pipes. Our main water shut off valve leaks -- the leak is from the packing nut. A plumber came out yesterday and tightened it, and it now barely leaks at all, maybe one drip every 24-48 hours (which it probably has been doing for the 6 years we have lived here, we just didn't know when we bought the place). Rather than replacing the whole valve (which, apparently, has a high liklihood of breaking the pipes in the foundation, requiring jackhammering and whatnot), we are thinking of installing a new shut off valve higher up on the pipe, where I guess it's less likely to break. If we go for the second valve, is there a way to close up that old valve (hydraulic cement, tape, solder, etc.), so it doesn't leak at all? The tiny leak is coming from the stem of the handle - can we remove the handle and cap it off or something? (And thanks to those of you who answered my husband's question about the pipes yesterday!)
- with my background in replacing galvy with copper or even new galvy is not that your problem is fixing the old valve, but replacing that one with a new one and new lines to the house. your first problem is is there another shutoff at the street meter and if so, shut it off and replace from the meter to the house and add new ball valve at the street on your property and another at the house before entering the foundation. getting through the foundation is a whiz as the removal of the old pipe will enlarge the hole enough to allow new pipes to enter. on the inside, install another gate or ball valve if accessible so you thru a basement and then feed copper throughout the home. The electrolysis that the other person is speaking of is a valid point, but i believe in doing thing right. add a union between the galvy copper (6.00) and forget about it . sometimes if you have a lot of iron in your water, rusting will start in a year and destroy your couplings...so do it right.
- Q: How come my boiler supply valve isnt letting water into my boiler, i have a cold water supply hooked up to it with the valve on i have tested the copper pipe goin into it and water flows into it, but when It reaches the valve it stops. I understand that it my have a backflow preventer in it and I am wondering if that could be malfunctioning. The hole you see on the front is where my expansion tank screws in. Also where could I get a new Valve. Thanks.http://img149.imageshack.us/i/boilerfillvalve.jpg/
- I work on antique steam boilers and engines for a hobby and if your supply valve isn't letting feedwater into the boiler, I'm going to tell you right now that you potentially have a VERY dangerous situation on your hands. Until you get this issue resolved, I would recommend that you not steam this boiler up under any circumstances, unless you have a backup feedwater delivery system that is working correctly. Many people don't know this, but a low water condition in a boiler under steam is essentially a ticking time bomb and can result in a fatal explosion. As to what may be causing it, I would say it's possibly one of two things: 1.) The check valve has been installed backwards and the flow of water is basically pushing it shut. 2.) The check valve is installed correctly, but is frozen shut due to corrosion and scale. Either way, I would have a certified boiler inspector come out and take a look at it; he can probably tell you more than I can.
- Q: why can't i just use solenoid valves hooked to a small bank of relays(using relay logic to control operation) connected to thermostats to control a multi zone boiler system? it would work, but can i do it, why must i use expensive zone valves?
- Its just an educated guess but I would say it would cause system shock if a valve just snapped shut as against closing gently. Assuming the system was shutting down as a zone valve shuts the control switch opens and turns off the plant whilst the valve is still partly open. With a solenoid unless you fit a timer to pre shut off the plant then shut off the solenoid you would probably cause some plant damage. Also by the time you have wired all that lot up you may as well do the job with a zone valve.
- Q: what exactly is thc pcv valve and what does it do
- PCV stands for positive crankcase ventilator all engines need this device to work properly
- Q: I heard there are really fine valves, does someone possesses thoughts where to buy these goods? I heard about them on TV. Anybody alive?
- Yes, okorder
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Non-rising Stem Resilient Seated Gate Valve DN150
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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