Hot Dipped Glavanized Binding Wire System 1

Hot Dipped Glavanized Binding Wire

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Hot Dipped Glavanized Binding Wire

zinc coating:20g-60g/m2

tensile strength:400N-500N/mm2

packing:1kg/coil,5kgs/coil

Wire Gauge	SWG(mm)	BWG(mm)	MM
8#	4.06	4.19	4.00
9#	3.66	3.76	-
10#	3.25	3.40	3.50
11#	2.95	3.05	3.00
12#	2.64	2.77	2.80
13#	2.34	2.41	2.50
14#	2.03	2.11	-
15#	1.83	1.83	1.80
16#	1.63	1.65	1.65
17#	1.42	1.47	1.40
18#	1.22	1.25	1.20
19#	1.02	1.07	1.00
20#	0.91	0.89	0.90
21#	0.81	0.813	0.80
22#	0.71	0.711	0.70

Hot Dipped Galvanized Wire made from good quality Low carbon wire rod by Advanced Drawn;Annealed Manufacture Skilled and Good Zinc Coated treatment method;

Hot Dipped Galvanized Wire could be produced in different type in Big Coil,Small Coil and With Plastic or Wooden Spool

Q: Is it okay to solder wrapping wire to a mother board, I am just asking because the wires are called WRAPPING.: i think its fine

Q: which guage power wire will handle 100 amps: A okorder /

Q: where does the expression 'down to the wire', come from?: I found this online: The wire is used in a four-legged footrace-- at least I've only ever heard the word tape used for races involving bipeds. That and ribbon. The wire in question is an actual wire, and it's used in the Sport of Kings, horseracing. A tape or ribbon would be too stretchy to instantaneously trip the shutter on the finishing-line camera when it was crossed. A horse has no problem busting through a single strand of wire.

Q: i need to know how to rewire it to make it fire the only wire that is still there is the one that runs to the distributor cap all the other wires are gone is it sopose to wire to the key please help: to the + terminal of the coil, run a wire that sends 12v. when the ignition switch is turned on.

Q: I know what spark plugs are and where they are... but not sure what is meant by wires...For example checking/replacing spark plugs and wires to see if a problem is fixed..Are wires what hookup to the spark plugs from the (distributor?): You have it right - it's the wires that go from the distributor cap to the spark plugs and to the coil.

Q: I am trying to test a engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT), and in one of the tests it states quot;connect the terminals of the electrical connector with a jumper wirequot;. Where can I find a jumper wire? Does it has to be an specific gauge or any jumper wire? please helpd: mokeyboy is correct about a jumper wire, now comes the ck of the sensor if its a single wire sensor some times called a thermal transmitter, grounding that wire will cause the temp gauge to read high, now if its two wire sensor for fuel injection that should not be grounded, but the sensor must be ck'd with a ohms meter

Q: Found some electrical wiring resonably priced on craigslist but it says -----8 gauge (AWG), 3 wire, direct burry electrical cableDOES THAT MEAN ITS 3/0 WIRE? Because I need 3/0 wire direct burriedI am looking to buy some extra 3/0 wire and found some on craigslist for a reasonable price....: It means the wire is #8 not #3/0. Also, be very leary of buying wire from unknown sources. A single pinhole in the insulation can lead to failure in a year or so underground.

Q: In the picture there is a blue wire that is loose, also i just had the starter and wiring changed a month a go. Thanks.: The blue wire I see is attached to the Oxygen sensor (O2). If that is loose there must be a plug where it goes. That is not shown in your picture. If you're saying the car won't crank (different from will crank but still not start) what is the wire with the blue cap that disappears behind the exhaust manifold? Here's how starters are wired: The BIG red wire comes directly from the battery to the solenoid. Also going to the solenoid is/are (a) control wire(s). Typically there's only one control wire. When you turn the key you energize the control wire. That in turn pulls the solenoid in sending the starter gear into the ring gear on the flywheel. The solenoid also makes contact between the BIG red wire and the actual starter motor itself supplying power to the motor and starts spinning the engine. Older model cars have the second wire going to the solenoid do so to supply unresisted 12 volts to the ignition coil. With computer managed engines this is not necessary, the computer does the work. Hope this clears up some issues for you. Ava g'day mate. )

Q: I have a 1983glastron cvx-16 and need to wire the lights, tach horn fuel guage there are 2 wires coming off the fuel guage one pink from the center and the other looks to be comming off of a bracket not conacted to the tanks fuel guage: Wiring your gauges is pretty easy to do as there are only 3 wires per gauge.You have a positive,negative and sender wire.Your positive wire goes to the I which is the ignition terminal,the negative goes to the negative terminal and the sender wire to the S terminal.That's it,done.To make it a little easier I'll give you the usual colour's of the sender wires. OIL pressure = light blue Fuel =pink or yellow usually pink Tach=gray Temp=light brown or brown Trim sender=brown with a white stripe. Light wire for gauges=blue Your positive wire for your gauges is purple and this wire starts from your key switch,from the I terminal.I hope this helps.

Q: I removed my old door chime/bell a few years ago and replaced it with a wireless one. That one quit working and now I am attempting to install a new wired one again. The only problem is, when I removed my old one way back, I failed to label the existing wires to where they go. I have two wires coming out of my wall mount, one white, one brown and the both have a white and red wire sticking out of them. I am not sure which one/ones will connect to the FRONT and TRANS posts on my new chime. I don't have a rear door bell button so that is not a problem. Which wire goes to the FRONT and TRANS and do I cap off any of the 4 wires? My installation instructions don't cover the mindless mistake of not having the wires labled.: If your old transformer is still working connecting the wires up wrong will burn it out in an instant. I have been there. The safest thing to do is locate your transformer and disconnect all the wires. Take the doorbell off and disconnect the wires. And then you have the chime off as well. Then use a continuity tester (has a battery and lights up or buzzes when the circuit is complete) and find out which wire goes where. You might have to string a temporary wire through the house to complete the circuit from downstairs to upstairs. Once you know which wire goes where you will be connecting a wire from one end of the transformer to the button a line from the button to the chime and a line from the chime to the transformer (a series circuit.) A voltmeter will tell you if the transformer is already burnt out. If you get a new transformer make sure you get one that matches the voltage requirement of the chimes (usually 16 volts.)

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