Hot Dipped Galvanised Wire

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Commercial Galvanised Steel Wire

(1) Quality : Meet GB/T 343 standard and other requirements of relevant standards .

(2) Zinc Coating: Meet GB/T 15393 standard and other requirements of relevant standards .

(3) Raw Material : Wire rod ——1006 , 1008 , 1018 , Q195 , etc, and zinc with 99.995% purity.

(4) Tensile Strength Range

Size (mm)	Tensile Strength (mpa)
0.15-1.60	290-550
0.65-1.60	400-550
1.61-6.00	400-1200

(5) Application : Used in wire mesh , artware , metal hose , binding for agriculture and construction , etc.

(6) Packing

Size (mm)	Coil Size	Spool Packing	Big Coil Packing
Size (mm)	Coil Size	Spool Packing	ID (mm)	OD (mm)
0.15-0.26	6 inch	1-14kg/spool
0.27-0.60	8 inch	1-100kg/spool
0.61-1.60	12/14/16 inch	1-100kg/spool	250-400	400-770
1.61-6.00		14-500kg/spool	450	800
1.61-6.00		14-500kg/spool	508	840

(7) Zinc Coating

Meet GB/T 15393 standard.

Size (mm)	Weight of Zinc-Coating ( g/m2 )
	A		AB	B	C	D	E	F
	A1	B2
≤0.25			30	20	18
>0.25-0.40				30	25	20
>0.40-0.50					30	20
>0.50-0.60					35	20
>0.60-0.80	120	110			40	20
>0.80-1.00	150	130			45	25
>1.00-1.20	180	150			50	25
>1.20-1.40	200	160			50	25
>1.40-1.60	220	180			50	35	30
>1.60-1.80	220	180			70	40	30
>1.80-2.20	230	200			80	50	40
>2.20-2.50	240	210			80	55	40
>2.50-3.00	250	230			90	70	45
>3.00-4.00	270	250			100	85	60	30
>4.00-5.20	290	270			110	95	70	40
>5.20-6.00	290	270	245		110	100	80	50

Q: I just removed a Australian light switch that I've never seen before that controlled a bathroom ceiling fan and the bathroom light. (both buttons on a single panel switch)I have a black wire coming from the switch box that has 2 other black wires splitting out from the connection point, one of each going to the fan and the light. And a single black wire going to the ceiling fan and a red wire to the light.I'm just putting in your everyday off/on switch one for each the fan and the light. any help? what are the positive and negative wires?: Here in the USA we use Black and Red for power (positive) , a white wire for a neutral and green (or bare copper) for ground. I am guessing that the red and black are the independent power wires and the other black wires are the main power. the use of a multimeter should be used to verify which is which. Since your putting in a single switch (which is a interrupter) where you have one black splitting to two, remove the 2 wires and make it a single wire and attach to the line side of the switch. Then connect the red and black wire for light and fan with a 3rd wire (tail piece) and attach the tail wire to the load side of the switch., Remember to test your power source first. If in doubt, hire a electrician. No one wants a fire!!!! Better to be safe then sorry.

Q: okay my apt building was built in 1975 I am changing my light fixture new from home depot and the ground wire, the black and white wire are basic on the new fixture. I am looking in the case box in my ceiling all I see is a black wire attached to red, and a yellow wire attached to a white wire which then attaches to another two white wires (then gos go's up behind the casing) I am not sure which is the ground here. There is a copper looking wire that is thick, thick it just isnt as malleable as the new ground wire that is on my new light fixture. It seems very difficult to maneuver.. Could this be my ground from the ceiling. It was attached to the mount of the old fixture my a screw.: All wiring is different but the basics remain the same. Before attempting anything please turn off the power. If I have the good picture in my head, there are extension wires added to the black and white this would be done if the wire run though the wall was too short and needed a little extra to get wired properly to a fixture. If I look at the bad picture in my head you have a jump cable attached which is running to a second outlet or light fixture. If the extra wires go back into the ceiling leading somewhere else then it is probably running to a different fixture and this isn't the best way to run electrical. It could potentially overload your circuit. If it has been working for 40 years without a problem you are probably ok, so long as the fixture you're adding is within the same category as the fixture you're removing. The thick copper wire will be your ground wire and should be attached to the box, and to the outlet itself with screws. Good luck with that fixture.

Q: What are the effects on an amp when you use power/ground wires that are too small? I bought a set of 8 guage wires off of OKorder, and it stated they can handle up to 1000W. I'm using a Kenwood KAC-9103D amp, 500x1 @ 4ohms, 900x1 @ 2ohms, and 900+ x1 @1ohm (1800 W max power). My subs are Kicker VR8, dual voice coil, 4ohms, wired in parallel. Was it a mistake to go with 8 guage wiring? Should have I gone with 4 guage?: Should of definitely went with the 4 gauge. The effects are that the AMP will overheat, and will be underpowered.

Q: I'm splicing four pieces of 14-2 gauge copper wire to an 16 gauge electrical cord. The copper wire doesn't have any covering on it. Is it okay to connect the grounds, then attach it to my keyless lampholder? Or is something bad going to happen then?: Ground wires are typically bare. Just be sure as you put the wires and light back in the box that the ground wire is not near the connector with the black wire. The black one is the one that bites !

Q: i am hooking up a wiring harness on a 2000 ford ranger and cant figure out the wires to hook up and what they are: Generaly speaking: Red = Right turn Yellow = left turn White = ground Blue = running/parking lights brown = electric brakes Most trailer sales places can sell you a simple adapter that sipmply plugs into your truck wires behind the bumper.

Q: how do i wire my sensor to my light: here okorder

Q: i need 175ft of 110 wire how much does it cost?: Most all of the wire used in an average home will carry 110 volts. If you're looking to install some new recepts or switches, then most likely #12 wire would work just fine. At 175', you're going to use most of a 250' roll, which is the way most residential wire is sold. A 250' roll will run about $35 - $40 depending on where you live and whether you buy it at a wholesale electrical supply house or a retail store. Buying the wire by the foot will most likely cost about the same as the price/ft. for cut wire goes up.

Q: exact wiring: 1995-96 Dodge Dakota Alarm, Remote Starter, Keyless Entry Wiring Information Constant 12V+ Pink/Black Ignition Switch Harness Starter Yellow Ignition Switch Harness Ignition Dark Blue Ignition Switch Harness Ignition 2 Black Ignition Switch Harness Accessory Black/Orange Ignition Switch Harness Tach Gray Coil Neutral Safety Wire Brown/Yellow Driver's Side of Trans. Brake Switch White or White/Tan Brake Switch Trunk Pin n/a Parking Lights Black/Yellow Light Switch Head Lamp Light Green Light Switch Hood Pin n/a Door Trigger Yellow (-) Driver's Pin Switch Door Lock Orange/Purple Driver's Kick Panel Door Unlock Pink/Purple Reverse Polarity Horn Wire Dark Green/Red (-) Fuse Panel Windows Up LF=Light Blue, RF=Brown/White Windows Down LF=White, RF=Purple/White

Q: What is the difference between carbon fiber and wire heating?: Carbon fiber heat is not transmitted through the medium, but far infrared light radiation to the human body, the heat transfer directly to the human body tissues and organs

Q: im hooking up a air/fuel tomorrow and i need to know what color the wire for the sensor signal is on my rt... i have 4 wires and heres the colors and were they are from. t/w or o/t from c124 b/lbl from c14 and c315 b gound and o/dg from fuse a... need answer thanks: It should be the BLK/ LB wire (although my wiring schematic shows that wire BLK/ GREEN), It will be the only circuit that have a varying voltage between 0-1 volt. Probe the wires with a DVOM and determine which wire has the signal, one wire will supply B+ for the heater, one is heater ground, one is reference supply voltage and one is signal return The signal return is the circuit you need to tap.

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