1.0/50 Steel Fiber from company CNBM China

1.0/50 Steel Fiber from company CNBM China

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 m.t.

Supply Capability:: 10000 m.t./month

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Quick Details

Place of Origin: Tianjin, China (Mainland)
Model Number: 1.00
Material: Steel
Production Process: Cold drawn
Fiber Lengh: 50
Type: 1
Compressive Strength: >1200MPa
Aspect ratio: 50
Standard: ASTM A820M-11
Section Shape: Circular
Application: Concrete Reinforcement
Product Application: Tunnel

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:	20 kg/Bag,50 bags/Pallet or 1,000kg/ Bulk Bag
Delivery Detail:	1 Month

Product Description

Diameter	1.00	mm	0.04	in
Length	50.00	mm	1.96	in
Aspect Ratio	50
Tensile strength	1200 MPa
Type	Cold drawn Steel Fiber
End	Hooked-end Steel Fiber
Glued/Loose	Glued Steel Fiber
Bending Angle	45°(min.30°)
Usage & Performance	Floor:Trafficked areas and Industrial floors
	Shotcrete :Slope stabilization and Final lining
	Precast concrete:Pipe and Railway sleepers
Packing	Standard Export Pallet Packing	Bag Packing	20 kg/Bag,50 bags/Pallet
		Bulk Packing	1,000kg/ Bulk Bag
Loading Quantity	20’GP	20-25 Tonne/Tonnes
	40’GP	25-27 Tonne/Tonnes
	40’HQ	25-27 Tonne/Tonnes
MOQ	1 kg for trial order
Supply Ability	10,000 Tonne/Tonnes per Year
Payment Terms	T/T or L/C at sight
Delivery Time	Within 15 days after receiving deposit or original L/C at sight
Certification	ISO9001:2000, CE,

Product	Diameter	Length mm/in	Aspect Ratio	Type	Packing
G-6030	0.5 mm (0.0197 in)	30 mm (1.1811 in)	60	Glued	20 kg/Bag, or 1,000kg/ Bulk Bag
G-6535	0.55 mm (0.0217 in)	35 mm (1.3780 in)	65	Glued	20 kg/Bag, or 1,000kg/ Bulk Bag
G-6035	0.6 mm (0.0236 in)	35 mm (1.3780 in)	60	Glued	20 kg/Bag, or 1,000kg/ Bulk Bag
G-8060	0.75 mm (0.0295 in)	60 mm (2.3622 in)	80	Glued	20 kg/Bag, 50 bags/Pallet
G-6060	0.9 mm (0.0354 in)	60 mm (2.3622 in)	60	Glued	20 kg/Bag, 50 bags/Pallet
G-6030	0.5 mm (0.0197 in)	30 mm (1.1811 in)	60	Loose	20 kg/Bag, or 1,000kg/ Bulk Bag
G-6535	0.55 mm (0.0217 in)	35 mm (1.3780 in)	65	Loose	20 kg/Bag, or 1,000kg/ Bulk Bag
G-6035	0.6 mm (0.0236 in)	35 mm (1.3780 in)	60	Loose	20 kg/Bag, or 1,000kg/ Bulk Bag
G-8060	0.75 mm (0.0295 in)	60 mm (2.3622 in)	80	Loose	20 kg/Bag, 50 bags/Pallet
G-6060	0.9 mm (0.0354 in)	60 mm (2.3622 in)	60	Loose	20 kg/Bag, 50 bags/Pallet

Q:Hi i would like to ask what is the diference between the two versions of wiring the RJ 45 connector. when I was making my first networking cable, i used the wiring according to an image that only was using/connecting four wires into the connector. the cable works and works well. Now i found plenty of other images, all of them reccomending the full /eight wires/ connecting. Do I run my network on lower Mbits/sec? what are the other four wires used for? Thanks: In 10/100 Mbps wiring only 4 wires are used. 2 for sending data, 2 for receiving data. The other 4 are used for cancelling cross-talk and minimizing other problems associated with the physics of transmission. The wires are arranged in 4 pairs, with each pair twisted. It's the twisting that solves or reduces transmission problems. In Gigabit over copper (1000Mbps) all 8 wires are used, 4 for transmit and 4 for receive. The twisting of the wires is much tighter and the actual connectors on the ends have a smaller tolerance. You should also be aware that there are two major standards for wire arrangement in UTP data cabling - 568A and 568B. You will need to know what standard is used in your network for consistency's sake. Mixing 568A and 568B results in cross-over which may or may not be what you intended. Hope this helps.

Q:14. Three parallel wires carry currents, with magnitudes and in the directions shown in the figure below. The wires all lie in a plane, and are all 2 m long, with separations between them as shown in the figure. What is the total force on wire #3 due to wire #1 and wire #2? Wire 1 : 6A, 2.5 m from Wire 3 ---------------------gt;Wire 2: 3A, 1.0 m from Wire 3 lt;--------------------Wire 3: 3A ---------------------gt;Can't figure it out, any hints/suggestions?: Once you find the direction you then need to find the magnitude of each B-field. You can do this using the equation: B=( μ x I)/(2 x π x r) where μ= 4π x 10^-7.With this you will be able to find each B-field. Once you have this information, you can then find the force exerted from each wire with the equation F=I x L(Length) x B. I'm sure there are other methods of solving, but this is the way I would go. Hope this helps.

Q:Is there special speaker wire in order to run 250 watts max rms or will the oem speaker wire in the car be sufficient (did not originally have an amp and is most likely at 50 watts max rms). If I need a special wire for that please let me know what it is called and possibly an example link. Thanks!: most likely the wire pre ran in the car was 16 guage wire which is fairly small id recomend atleast 12G for speakers and 8G for a power wire.

Q:I removed my old door chime/bell a few years ago and replaced it with a wireless one. That one quit working and now I am attempting to install a new wired one again. The only problem is, when I removed my old one way back, I failed to label the existing wires to where they go. I have two wires coming out of my wall mount, one white, one brown and the both have a white and red wire sticking out of them. I am not sure which one/ones will connect to the FRONT and TRANS posts on my new chime. I don't have a rear door bell button so that is not a problem. Which wire goes to the FRONT and TRANS and do I cap off any of the 4 wires? My installation instructions don't cover the mindless mistake of not having the wires labled.: If your old transformer is still working connecting the wires up wrong will burn it out in an instant. I have been there. The safest thing to do is locate your transformer and disconnect all the wires. Take the doorbell off and disconnect the wires. And then you have the chime off as well. Then use a continuity tester (has a battery and lights up or buzzes when the circuit is complete) and find out which wire goes where. You might have to string a temporary wire through the house to complete the circuit from downstairs to upstairs. Once you know which wire goes where you will be connecting a wire from one end of the transformer to the button a line from the button to the chime and a line from the chime to the transformer (a series circuit.) A voltmeter will tell you if the transformer is already burnt out. If you get a new transformer make sure you get one that matches the voltage requirement of the chimes (usually 16 volts.)

Q:I need to get to the audio wiring: you cannot simply go with matching the colors factory radios have extra wires that are not needed with an aftermarket install most of the time (wires that control the dimmer on the radio, speed sensitive volume) you will need three power wires (constant, ignition, and ground), plus your speaker wires use a test light to test your wires, usually at the radio the yellow wire is your constant, the red is your ignition, and black is always ground to find your constant use the test light, it will be hot at all times so that your radio can remember the time, and your settings- next you need your ignition, it is only hot when the key is on or in the accessory position, to tell the radio when to come on- the ground is self explanatory to find which wires go to what speakers all you need is a 9v battery, put the positive end to a wire and test all of the other wires to the negative side and you will hear a crackling noise from a speaker when you have the right combination

Q:for standard electric wiring, do I cut the white wire or the black wire to not get shocked?: Standard electrical wiring for what? If the wires are live chances are you will get a chock if u cut any of them. It also depends what u cut it with, make sure u have some insualtion between your hands and the wire like rubber gloves or a plastic handle on the cutters.

Q:hey could anyone tell me from the stock am radio in my nissan 720 what wires are the constant (memory) power and the accessory (ignition) wire so i can attach these to my new radio: there is no reason to cut any wiring to install any aftermarket head unit.go to wall mart to the car audio area and give them the yr make and model of your ride and they will sell you the right plug in for your type car.this wires to your new head units wiring harness and plugs into the plugs you took your factory radio out of.they call it plug and play and it comes with a wiring diagram for your type car so follow it. its color coded. if you did cut off the plugs your best bet is to put them back.this part is about 9 dollars.

Q:Kind of a confusing question I guess. I want to cut a wire that contains 3 other wires and splice into them then reconnect them. is all I need relatively the same gauge wire or is it potentially different type like some sort of special speaker wire..? Should be one positive one negative and the other some sort of signal for sound. (Microphone to a speaker). All I need is standard copper wire?: i wont even begin to touch on this,leave it alone and call a pro

Q:electroluminescent wire picture?: What about it?

Q:6000+ heat sinc wires?i up graded my cpu and the new heat sinc has a 4 wire conector and my old 3800+ heat sinc has 3 and mobo has 3 pin processor works great. sys recognizes amd 6000+ dual core processor @ 3.0 ghz but not the model #???? sys works great scored 10143 on 3DMARK 06 anyway the fan and temp s are all good any ideas what the other wire is: Yes, the fan on your heat sink has a fourth wire that..............(tune back in tommorrow folks, for the conclusion), (sorry, somebody's telling jokes over here!) The fourth wire is a Speed control wire. The first wire,(Red), is 12VDC,(power), the second,(Black), is the ground, should be a Blue wire, for rpm sensor, and the fourth,(color codes vary), is the wire that the BIOS uses to speed the fan up when the temp of the cpu raises, slows the fan down, when it isn't used as hard. Temp of the cpu, is found through one of it's pins on the bottom of it.

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