• High Quality and Cheapest Ceramic Wall and Floor Tiles System 1
  • High Quality and Cheapest Ceramic Wall and Floor Tiles System 2
  • High Quality and Cheapest Ceramic Wall and Floor Tiles System 3
  • High Quality and Cheapest Ceramic Wall and Floor Tiles System 4
  • High Quality and Cheapest Ceramic Wall and Floor Tiles System 5
High Quality and Cheapest Ceramic Wall and Floor Tiles

High Quality and Cheapest Ceramic Wall and Floor Tiles

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Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
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Supply Capability:
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Specifications

1.ceramic wall tile, bathroom tile, bathroom wall tile
2.Bath tile
3.kitchen tile
4.CE & ISO9001
5.Grade AA

3D ceramic wall tile

Product Description

Detail product description:

Model no:

CMAX 1005

Tile type:

3D ceramic wall tile

Material:

ceramic tile

Size(MM) :

300*300mm,300*450mm,300*600mm,330*330mm,240*660mm,400*800mm

Thickness(MM):

7.5-8.5mm

Absorption:

waterproof ceramic tile

Color:

Available in all designs and colors

Usage:

Used for wall and floor, widely used in kitchen, bathroom, living room, and so on.

Surface:

polished / matt finshed

Certificate:

CE & ISO9001, Soncap, Test

Function:

Acid-resistant, antibacterial, non-slip, wear-resistant

Packaging:

standard cartons and wooden pallets packing

Delivery time:

Within 20 days after received the payment

Payment terms:

L/C,T/T,D/P,D/A

MOQ:

500 square meters

Supply ability:

10000 square meters per day

Usage area:

Interior & exterior floors & walls, inside and outside, bedrooms, hotels, schools, supermarkets and lobbies

Remark:

For more information of our products please kindly visit our website or contact us by email.bettyben@okorder.com

Packaging & Shipping                          

SIZE MM

PCS/CTN

KG/CTN

SQM/CTN

CTN/PALLET

240X600

8

23

1.44

48

330X330

15

24

1.6335

72

300x600

8

26

1.44

60

300x300

15

23

1.35

72

300x450

12

27

1.62

60

Q:A week and a half a go I put eight 23 1/2‘‘ x 23 1/2 tiles on my sheetrock wall as a headboard and I can sometimes hear it crack! Will it fall?
www.okorder Decorating USA provides shutters and other window covering products at 61% Discount price. Just a few days back I purchased plantation shutters from them and their service is satisfactory ! They provided FREE installation and consultation. They are most famous for quick and excellent customer support. You can see their variety of shutters, shades, blinds, drapes and curtains. After purchasing, you will thank me for this answer :)
Q:I‘m getting some of my house tiled and would like to know if I am getting ripped off or not. It is going to be approximalte 600 sq ft with 2 upstairs bathrooms. The installer gave me a quote of $2400 to lay the tile (straight or diagonal, whichever I want). I will have to buy the tile and other materials on my own. The tile is going to be 18x18. The price includes ripping out the carpet and ripping out the tile that is already in the kitchen that will be replaced as well as the tile in the upstairs baths. Also included will be haul away of all the trash. Is this a good price or not?
I am a contractor and for the work you describe i would usually charge 10 dollars a square foot. But I would include all the material including the tile but not exceeding a certain price per foot. And diagonal is extra so I think you got a damn good deal. Be careful check the guy research now no tears later.
Q:I‘m installing new tile in my bathroom and had a few questions.1. I understand that I‘m supposed to remove the toilet prior to laying the tile. So I remove the toilet, lay new tile, and then put the toilet on top of the tile? Does this mean that the toilet will sit on the tile? If so, won‘t there be a very little gap where the tile and toilet meet? Are you supposed to seal this gap? Or, do you cut the tile around the shape of the bottom of the toilet and tile around it?2. Same question with the vanity. I‘m replacing my old vanity. Do I have to remove the old vanity, lay tile in the whole area where the old vanity was, and then install the new vanity on top of the tile? Again, what about the small gap? Does it need to be sealed? What do you seal it with?3. How do you remove the old vanity? Do you simply disconnect the plumbing, remove the screws holding it to the wall, and pry it from the wall?Any comments, suggestions, or advice are appreciated.
I should point out, that it is not recommended to caulk around the base of the toilet. this is because, if the wax seal were ever to start leaking, the caulk would contain it under the toilet and you would never know it was leaking until the floor rotted and you and the toilet fall through into the living room. No body wants to see that!!
Q:hey guys my house just got renovated a few days ago... it seems like some tiles have tough stains on it. is there a type of detergent or anything that removes it off? it looks well ugly and makes the surface rough... it's on both my floor and wall tiles
The use of muratec acid will remove the glaze on the tile. Not sure if diluted will or not but I d never use it . The use of a metal chisel can leave marks on the tile that you ll never get off. First ,if this is thin set still on the tile get the tile person back to clean it off. Barring that , if you have to do it, scrape what you can off with something softer. I use a piece of wood. After the lumps come off use a white nylon pad and go over the tile dry with it.Special pads used for tile clean up can be bought most any place that sells tile. Their called a doodle bug pad. While your there you might want to get a small bottle of grout and effervescent remover.About $8 for an 8 oz bottle. If going over the tile dry doesn t remove it, then go with the cleaner.Doing it wet right away will only reintroduce any removed thin set or grout to the tile. After all cleaned up consider sealing the tile ,but not before it s cleaned.Tile Lab and Cerama Seal sealers work well. You ll ned to wait for a minimum of 72 hours with all pentatrating sealers Any questions you can e mail me thru my avatar GL
Q:I have an on going problem in my kitchen. Same time tile floor was done in our home but kitchen is the problem. It was done 3-4 years ago by a contractor, however he never showed up his face to help us. He left some grout with us and said if ever the grout pops up then we can mix it in the water and fill with this mixture. The grout from the kitchen floor always comes out. Underneath, the kitchen is wood floor. The kitchen is on the second floor. Our family room is also on the second level but no problem to that floor Please help.
Flexible Tile Grout
Q:I was wondering about space between tile when laying tile floor. I have seen online and in person tile floors(don‘t know marble or porcelain or what) where it is completely flat and smooth and the tiles appear butted together. I prefer this look as opposed to the typical tile floor with grout lines that are shallower than the tops of the tile. I was wondering how to get this flat look when every where I have read online says you cannot or at least should not butt tiles together. I hope I described what im looking for accurately and am hoping to get some options. Again I am looking for a flat smooth surface nothing with the dips or recesses of the grout lines. how is that done??
What you want all depends on the type of tile you choose. Granites and marbles you can do this with.There are some vitrified tiles that this can be done with. These are cut (the 2 stones) this way to butt them almost all the way together.Vitrified tiles are formed with the edges slanted so you butt them together.. These are all made to use a very small grout joint but you still need to have grout. Most all other ceramic and porcelain tiles you need a slightly bigger joint and only as small as 3/16 .The type of grout these require you can only do a joint that small. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q:I‘m going to be putting in a tile floor in my kitchen (all cabinets and appliances removed). I have done my research and have a good idea of what I will be doing - beef up the subfloor with plywood and lots of screws for rigidity; use cement based self leveler to correct a mild slope; install backerboard or decoupling membrane (not sure which yet) followed by the tile.I have a plan, but plans tend to fall apart after their first run-in with reality. Has anyone run into types of problems they don‘t talk about on DIY network? The types of problems complete the following kinds of sentences: are you f***ing kidding me? You have to do ____ before ___? or dammit, why don‘t they tell you you need [insert name of specialized gadget] on a product that cures in 10 minutes? or boy was I an idiot for doing/not doing [insert critically important but not obvious tiling procedure here].?Much obliged, and thanks for the responses.
Just a couple...ideas make sure you use specialized backerboard screws and not drywall screws buy a medium tile saw...at the beginning you will be quite a newbie..and slower than a pro at making your cuts and you don't want to be under the rental by the hour gun... when you are done..you will feel like a champ and sell the saw on craigslist for about the same money, to another newbie like you..he will thank you!! buy the best mortar money can buy..high end laticrete..you will be happy you did..rookies tend to cheap out on materials..but good thin set has many advantages, like flexibility, pot time etc...adhesion... last but not least porcelain tile and not ceramic.
Q:How can the stickers on the tiles clean up?
1, first attached to the tiled surface of the stickers to tear off, with warm water (winter application of hot water) towel soaked in the stickers at the repeated wipe twice; then wet and wet towels marked with soap Traces of repeated wiping several times; finally with a clean wet and dry towel to wipe the soap, stickers traces were removed. The following are the same as the " 2, with a toothpaste evenly applied to the surface of the stickers, stay a little while, and then wipe with a soft cloth, and sometimes more stickers, more solid, just did not remove the traces of the re-applied toothpaste 3, with a pen paper knife scraping, suitable for glass, floor tiles and other hard bottom; rub with alcohol, suitable for glass, floor tiles, clothing, etc .; frozen, stickers after freezing hard, you can directly tear, Should not use alcohol, scrape and other methods.
Q:I want to remove my carpet in the bedroom. I know about pulling it up and all that but what I don‘t know is what the next step is after it‘s totally up. I want to put down tile I‘m not sure if I want to put down ceramic or just the plain old sticky tile. my question is can i put tile down directly on the floor boards. I don‘t think that there is hardwood underneath i just see like plywood or whatever that board is called. Is there anything specific that needs to be done to the floor before tiling?
While the peel and stick will stick to the floor, I'd still recommend an underlayment. Underlayment properly put down will even out the rough spots on the floor. The subfloor, directly over the joists, is probably structurewood or commonly called OSB. You could use plywood or fiberrock. Stagger the seams of the underlayment with the seams of the subfloor. For example, if the first sheet of underlayment will land on the seam, cut it in half so the remainder of the seams will stagger, hopefully that makes sense. If you go with ceramic tile, there is one method that go directly on top of structurewood. It requires a special prep, adhesive and grout. And it is definitely not for the novice. It is uses TEC's 1step mortar. It may not even be available in your market. Google TEC 1 step But for the novice, no offense, I recommend using either backerboard or Duro-Rock. You spread, thinset mortar, doesn't need to be latex modified for underlayment, set the board, nail with roofing nails or screw. The instructions are available on line. But nail or screw every 4 along the edges and 8 in the middle. Use the fiberglass tape before you set tile. This should latex modified. There are different ways people like to do this. Some say as you tile, some just stick the tape down and skim the top. What I like is to skim a thin layer over the seams, put the tape down, then make sure there are no ridges. Let sit over night. That way the next day, I can pop lines, and set tile. As far as setting tile, it easy to do when you know what you are doing. It also easy to screw it up when don't know what you are doing. I've seen novices screw it up pretty bad. If you know someone that has tiled before, I hope you get some help. With perhaps a thousand dollars of material on the line, it will be well worth a free lunch and a couple beers at the end of the day.
Q:I need step by step instructions on how to install ceramic tile in a bathroom on a concrete slab.
I okorder . I'm going to try replacing the tiles in my shower. There is some water damage so I'm going to have to replace the boards, backing, and maybe even wall supports first though. I'm hoping to be able to finish it in a couple of weeks, luckily I have a second bathroom! Tiling is hard, you might have to rent a wet saw too. But it can pay off by increasing the value of your house at a tiny fraction of the $1,000's that contractors would charge. I would only do this project if you are patient and have some experience with DIY projects. If you have lots of time, then go for it!

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