• Glazed tiles porcelain tiles from China System 1
Glazed tiles porcelain tiles from China

Glazed tiles porcelain tiles from China

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ADVANTAGE
1)Professional  Manufacturer
2) Competitive price,high quality and fast delivery time
3) More than 10 years export experience.
4) Well-deserved reputation.
SPECIFICATION
• 1. various sizes are available;
• 2. More than 100 design and colors;
• 3. Both waterproof and non waterproof available;
• 4. Strict control on color tolerance;
• 5. Perfect effect on flatness and glazed surface;
• 6. Ink-Jet technology application on the tiles
• 7. Stable production and supplying;
• 8. Competitive price and payment term
• 9. Stable production and supplying;
• 10. Suitable for economic end using;

Q:I need to remove several tiles for repair and replace the tiles with as little damage as possible
if its in the middle, drill a hole in one, then chisel it out, once you have one removed the rest are easy
Q:my boss wants to remove floor tiles and stain the cement floor underneath the tile, what is a easy way to remove the old tile
Wear okorder /... you will also need lots of rags and ventilation. I hope you meant vinyl tiles?
Q:tiles at the top of my pool have fallen off, these tiles are in the water. what is best or suggested adhesive to reinstall them?
depot has a combination mortar/grout that sets underwater. should work. if a bunch of the tiles have come off.. bably indicates larger problems
Q:so i bought tile but not the bull nose end pieces cause they did not have them for that tile. I tiled all the way out to the edge of the counter and now need a way to finish the edge. I have seen wood edges but what is this called and how do you do it? does it butt up against the tile of does it go over? is a wet tile saw supposed to leave ugly, chipped edges? bought a Brand new blade and it did not help.
I agree with most of the answers already submitted. My preference for your finish would be the stained oak trim. In my opinion- a wood edge finish for a tiled counter is always superior to other finishes because this edge gets a lot of abuse and the wood can handle it without cracking, breaking or chipping. As for the chipped edges from your tile saw. There are a variety of qualities to blades and saws and tile. You've been challenged by probably not the highest quality in all categories. Not to worry- if you get a sanding stone available at your home repair store you can give the edge a quick rub to smooth the worst of the cuts.
Q:hi friends.. we r constructing a new house.. many people say us lay tiles for floorins and many say to use marbles or granite?...so confused!!!!.. wat to do?quite big house situated quite beneath the hills.
Tile is much better suited for floors. It is harder and less likely to stain or scratch. Granite is the next best choice because it is harder than marble and less porous and likely to stain. Marble is the softer and most likely to stain. The first floor of our current house is all ceramic tile.
Q:how do i do the measuring and lay out on a 10 foot by 6 foot floor when laying the tiles diagonally?
A 10x6 room requires 60 square feet of tile to cover the floor. On a normal square to the walls pattern, I would order 10% more tile to cover waste. On a diagonal pattern, you will have more waste. I would order 15% to 20% more tile to cover waste. To set up to lay the tile, I start by picking the most obvious sight line in the room - maybe from the next room through the door and chalk a line perpendicular to the far wall along that sight line and parallel to the side wall. Then you chalk a line 45 degrees wall to wall through the center point of the center of the first line. This is your 45 degree pattern. Chalking a line wall to wall 90 degrees from the second chalk line through that same center point gives you your grid pattern to set your tile from. Ignore the first line - that was for reference only - line two and three are the lines you set your tile from. Set out tile dry with spacers to see if you like the effect. I will sometimes set out all of the whole tile possible in the room and walk around to see if it looks good. If it doesn't look right or you end up with too small pieces along the edges or in the doorways, you can move your initial start point and rechalk your lines.
Q:Dont want to lay down the rock. Want to attach strait to the plywood due to dish washer stove and cabinets. What is the best way for long lasting tile strait to plywood?
The first thing is I need to know is this laminate glue or snap together (do you want to save this floor ?) if you donot care this is how to remove your laminate First off figure which way the laminate is started this will give you a good starting point. this should just fold up ward ____/ like that once you start you should be able to take up thold laminate in 1 hour. make sure to remove all your wall base first., that is what holds down the laminate. After that is up you will have to determine what type of underlayment is on the subfloor. The most common is durock if you are putting down ceramic . If it is vinyl tiles you then should use luan (1/4 thick use the same thickness for the durock). You have to measure you length and width of the floor striking chalk lines to determine where your starting point is ( you do this with either type of floor).If you need more instruction e mailme.
Q:We are building a tile shower and we have gotten it framed the way we want it. We haven‘t installed the backerboard or tiles yet, just the studs are placed. Do we need to backerboard and tile the sides where the door will be, or can we install the shower door directly to the bare wood studs?
Tile first. Doors mount to tile. Make sure you put a nailer in where the hinges will go, so that you have something solid to screw into.
Q:can I lay porcelain floor tiles butted up with no grout. These will be laid on underfloor heating? They are quite large 600 x 600. Any info will help. Thanks
No you shouldn t.. Dirt, dust and every day stuff will accumulate in the joints and be almost impossible to get out. All tiles are designed to have a space, some smaller and some larger than others. The grout the goes between the tiles is part of the system to make it stable. Sealing the grout is a major help in keeping it clean and stain free, if this is your concern. Porcelain is made to have a sanded grout along with a space of 1/8 to about 1/4 inch. Or 3/6 mm This spacing will also help make up for minor tile sizes that will throw you off if you try to but them tight. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there.. GL
Q:all ceraminc tiles, mounted in between to tiles maybe?
To do it properly, you will have to tear out a section of the shower wall which will allow you to properly install the shelf frame. It will probably end up being much larger that the shelf bracket because it needs to be securely fastened to a supporting member probably connected to wall studs at both ends. And once secured, the entire area refinished in tile. Unfortunately you will probably not be able to match the existing tile, so you may have to re-tile the entire wall or even the entire shower, depending upon how important the finished appearance is to you. As you can see, this project may approach or exceed the effort required to completely redo the entire shower. So my recommendation is to put a shelf pole in the corner or use a hanging basket of some sort to hang from the shower arm. It is really up to you. Good Luck.

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