Portland cement with high quality PO 42.5 PO 52.5
- Ref Price:
- Loading Port:
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10 m.t.
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m.t./month
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- Quality Product
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▶ Exported Products:
1. Portland cement in accordance with GB standard:
PSA 32.5, PO 42.5, PO 52.5..
▶ Input raw materials for production including:
→ Limestone exploited from raw materials source of the plant.
→ Clay exploited and transported from raw materials source of the
→ Adjustment additive: Iron ore purchased and transported to the
plant by truck.
→ Cement additives: basalt, gypsum …
Portland cement is the most common type of cement in general use around the world, used as a basic ingredient of concrete, mortar, stucco, and most non-specialty grout.
It is a fine powder produced by heating materials in a kiln to form what is called clinker, grinding the clinker, and adding small amounts of other materials.
Several types of Portland cement are available with the most common being called ordinary Portland cement (OPC) which is grey in color, but a white Portland cement is also available.
Q:I have some special requirement about specifications.
A:We have a well-rounded product range, which endows us with the capability of applying many special specifications. Please feel free to contact us with yours.
Q:Do you accept OEM service?
A:Yes, we do.
Q:What is your delivery time?
A:It depends on the size/complexity of your order and our own production schedule. Usually we provide a faster delivery than the industry's average.
Q:What is the payment term?
A:TT and LC are both Okay.
Q:Can I have my own logo on the product?
A:Sure, we can apply your own logo on the products according to your drawings.
Payment Term: Contact us.
- Q:can you use cement in ceramic molds?
- Don't think so-- slip (what you put in ceramic molds) is much different than cement-- and the action of the material is different.-- i.e. cement heats up as part of the chemical action to get to the solid state-- slip is actually a type of mud-- the mold wicks the moisture out of the mud-- leaving a shape.
- Q:My parents have a family of life size cement deer that they want me to bronze. They figured I could find instructions on the internet but so far I'm not having a lot of luck. Does anyone know of a resource that can help me out? (I'm used to painting ceramics but never a bronze finish before -- and never anything that big!)
- There are various paints that might be used. However cement can be a problem when it comes to paint,because it is acidic.There is process called acid washing or maybe it's acid staining a process for applying color to existing cement ,primarily floors, that you might look into. Google cement colorants, cement stains etc. Most of the information available on the net applies to industrial application,floor coloring ,architectural applications. Working with cement can be hard on the hands so use some rubber gloves.
- Q:Why do people call a concrete mixer a cement mixer?
- It developed as a layman's term, where as most people call concrete, or mortar cement not realizing that cement is only one ingredient in concrete and mortar. So because there are more laymen, than skilled tradesmen in the masonry business, the term stuck
- Q:I am trying to demo my shower to the studs. Tile is laid over durock cement wall. Floor tiles came right up but the tile on the durock is difficult to remove and I'm wondering how I'm going to remove the durock too. Thanks.
- Getting a crow bar between the stud and cement board and start at it. You can just pull the nails right thru the durock. Whole sheets can come off. BEWARE... when they do they are very heavy and can be hard to handle. Start w/ the two end walls , since they are supposed to be put up after the back wall.. Just starting to smash the walls w/ a hammer can crack dry wall and seams or corners in adjacent rooms. Some care must be taken. Cover tub as much as possible since tiles will fall off with the flexing of the board as you remove it. GL
- Q:cement came with the repair/patch kits.
- Use the vulcanizing fluid that came with the patch kit. It's NOT the same formula as rubber cement. Try rubber cement to see for yourself. Glued patches will last the life of the tube, providing you understand HOW to patch a tube.
- Q:I'm trying to replace the water supply turn valve under my bathroom sink. Whoever installed it put a yellow cement (plumbers cement?) on the threads between the nuts and the body of the valve. Is there a solvent that will dissolve the cement? All I can tell you about the cement is that it's yellowish in color. Here's a picture of the type of valve I have.
- Yes, it is a type of pipe dope (thread sealer). There are joint and gasket sealers sold world-wide. Hercules, Tap-con, Dope Pro and etc. all have sold this type of product. The older ones ALWAYS dried to a cement like seal. There is no solvent available for this issue. Unfortunately, if an old version was used, you only have 2 options available. 1. You can use your torch to heat and loosen the product form the valve. The real problem here is that if you are using the type of valve you posted in the picture, you run the great risk of permanently ruining the valve anyway. 2. Simply cut behind the valve and solder in a new one. Use the tape thread sealer and off you go. This is BY FAR the best option. Write to me if you have any questions. I'll be happy to help anytime. EDIT: Bill, Here's the issue. The pipe dope usually remains somewhat flexible for a long time. However, penetrating oil will not do the job. If you have a Monkey wrench, vice grip or a slip wrench (aka Channel) you have a good chance. You can heat the joint with a hair dryer. This may soften it enough. Hold the valve firm, with one of the above in one hand, and loosen the nut with the other. Vice grips work best to hold the valve steady. There are other options if this fails to work for you. One is to cut the feed line, and splice a new one on (using compresion fittings or a pipe splice). The best option is to turn the water off to the valve, cut the pipe below/behind it, and solder a new one on. If you are worried about soldering, buy a tool and die thread maker (inexpensive), create new thread and screw a new valve into place. If you are inexperienced at this, the soldering option is best. Vote for me, and feel free to write again should you have any questions. The return mail option did not work.
- Q:What is the meaning of 48 grade cement?
- It indicates that the cement has a compressive strength of 48kg/cm^2. In India cements of grade 33, 43, 53 are available.
- Q:Buy goods do not give money how to do? I opened the building materials store, last month to a customer, buy 2 tons of cement, said to their factory to give money, I arranged to send the car. Money also gave. After a few days he called 5 tons. Said to the money, I arranged to send the car. But this time he did not give the money. Said two days to, I also agreed. Now more than a month, he found a variety of reasons to shirk, and now his office also moved out of the phone, But I did not move the place where he gave him cement what should I do? Now can not find others, the phone is not connected or shut down. A total of .500 yuan. More
- Is generally the first time to cheat your trust, and then under the ruthless hand, but fortunately no money, can only wait for him to give
- Q:Do cement finishers often work long hours?
- if they have a girl friend on the side, the hours can be quite long!
- Q:Last week before the St. Pete Indy race here in Florida an oil tanker crashed killing the 47yr old driver on the freeway overpass. The fire was reported to have exposed the original frame. Do u feel it was bad building codes that were passed long ago, bypassed? Did the cement melt?In need of a brainiac please.TY
- Cement ... more accurately , concrete does not melt. During a fire such as you describe, the concrete will spall which means that it will break into chunks. These chunks will fall away from the reinforcing network of re-bar and exposing it to the heat of the fire. The expanding re-bar will add stress as well as serving to conduct the heat to deeper within the structure eventually resulting in failure and collapse.
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