• Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6B365 System 1
  • Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6B365 System 2
  • Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6B365 System 3
  • Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6B365 System 4
Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6B365

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6B365

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1152 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Basic Information:

 

Tile Type

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile

Certificate

ISO13006, ISO9001

Finish

Nano Finish

Size

600x600mm

Water Absorption Rate

Below 0.5%

Packing

Carton + Wooden Pallets

Usage

Floor and wall

Other Choices

many designs, size, colors

Delivery Time

15~20 days after 30% deposit received

 

Features:

 

l  Available in many designs, specifications and assorted color, unique designs and exclusive quality

l  Used for indoor & outdoor wall and floor decorations, as well as Stair Case Product;

l  Easy to install, anti-dust, washable, acid-proof, alkali-proof, durable

l  Material: glazed porcelain

l  Customized sizes available according to clients’ requirements

l  The full polished glazed porcelain tile is widely used for interior house flooring, hotel lobby flooring, shopping mall as well as other public sites.

l  Vivid stone texture and vein bring our decoration the natural stone beauty with much lower cost, easier quality control and easier decoration proceeding.

l  Advanced glazing technology to make sure the tile surface beauty vivid and clean, via ink-jetting or silk printing.

l  We could go with OEM model, making 2nd production based on clients requirement;

l  We could offer flexible service on shipment and better support on payment term;

l  Our quality guarantee is based on the strict production procedure, quality controlling on the shade, straightness as well as white degree.

 

 

Q:This is a first time tiling job. Does anyone have any tips to how to properly lay tile?
I have been a tile installer for over ten years now. Basic tile installations, such as floors and backsplashes are perfectly fine for any homeowner. There is not much that can go wrong ( mainly Aesthetics) When is entails water related installations ( Wet areas). This is when a homeowner can get in over their heads. Water will find its way out if a stall is not properly prepped and waterproofed. I honestly would recommend hiring a professional. Just my opinion.
Q:We recently renovated and trying to save money, we did the tile ourselves after some research. We used thinset, then backerboard, screwed the backer-board down (extra screws in high traffic areas) then thinsetted the tiles down according to instructions using a 1 inch trowel and grouted. Most of the rooms are fine (for now) but here‘s the problem:Through the main pathway, we started hearing what sounded like a sandy noise. Not good as the thinset is sandy. Today, I‘ve noticed that the grout along a few of the tiles is beginning to crack meaning the tiles must be flexing. The tiles are discontinued, have brand new cabinets on top of them and won‘t be easy to take out and replace.What should I do? Would putting large rugs over it help, with the intention of cushioning the footsteps?
A couple possibilities, the use of such a large trowel wasn t needed. The thin set may not have been set up before foot traffic was on it,and the bond was broken, leading to loose tiles and thus grout cracking. The thinset may have been to thick or thin leading to not bonding or poor bonding. The grout may have been to watery and thus weak from to much water or to much water was used in washing the tile when grouting. What are you wanting to do? Repair the tiles?Regrout? To find out if the tiles are loose, get down and rap your knuckles on the tile with the cracked grout and then off to the side in a less used area. If the tiles you suspect are loose, there will be a hollow sound especially along the edge of the tile.It should sound firm on the other area. You don t need a handy man for this. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q:Thinking of putting tile on front porch. It has a couple minor cracks. Is there anything that I can put down so that the Tiledoesn‘t crack in the future.
Cover the whole porch over w/ cement as to cover cracks keep porch even then lay tile. Best bet wold be to remove all old cement w/ cracks and start over. It seems everything wants to crack. We just laid a textured patio and it already has 2 huge cracks. We live in washington state and I think it is from small earthquakes. Good luck.
Q:I want to know how to make tile based map in java. Retro games used tiled maps (to ease programming and memory management) but those games were created in assembly language. I know basic java. Now I want to make a 2d game in java, starting with a pretty basic 2d platformer type or top-down type. To do this, i need to know the technique required to make a map, a tile map.I have already searched in google and youtube and stack overflow, but none helped much. What I learnt is that I have to make some tile object and make a 2 dimensional matrix to store position of particular tiles. But this does not helped much. Thank you.P.S. there are many programs available on the internet for making tile maps, and also there are game making softwares and also libraries. i do not want to use any of those since i want to make my game with whatever java provides. Thank you. Also forgive my poor english.
first of all, you need to build different densities of 2D tile arrays according to how much of the map will be in the viewport at any given time. For example, a map at neighborhood level will need a gazillion more tiles than a map at the county level. Then, you need a way of converting the geographic reference at the center of the viewport to the tile that is covered at that zoom level, and for finding the adjacent tiles as well. Then, you'll need to calculate what parts of which tiles you are using will need to be clipped and by how much. Build a canvas using this information. As the map moves, you'll need to add on more adjacent tiles, and discard others, update the clipping, etc.
Q:i have these ugly light blue ceramic tiles in my kitchen (as a backsplash)..they are fairly big squares ... and the owner before me tried to paint the grout between them because the paint (or whatever it was) is coming off so now the grout is gross dark grey coming through...anyways...i was wondering if anyone had some easy ideas to cover up the ceramic tiles.
I think you need to take them off the wall and then resurface. It isn't as bad a job as you think once you get started.
Q:My husband and I just purchased a condo. We want to retile the bathroom in a more modern looking tile or maybe a marble or some kind of fancy tile. We are going to do it ourselves. Where can we find good prices on the tile?
Bigger tiles are less labor intensive, easier to clean grout as there is less and more with today's styles. Purchasing it is not as expensive it's the labor. If you can measure the square footage then you have the area measured to call for estimates and can price/purchase tile based on that as well. I know that my bathroom floors seemed to be about $300 for labor or less. It took him a 1/2 day to lay it and then return the next day or two later to grout it.
Q:If you were going to tile an entire room would you start from the walls or floor? The room is only small 12m walls amp; 4m floor amp; is a basic toilet amp; basin. There are no border tiles amp; no fllor to wall tiles.
I've seen it done both ways. But I prefer to do the walls first. That way what ever mess is on the floor can be cleaned up easily and it is not on the new floor tiles
Q:I am looking at removing the existing wooden fire place surround (not a mantel, but some decorative wood surrounding the fireplace), and the 70‘s fireplace hearth, and replacing each with some nice slate tiles. The slate would be attached to the wall, and to the floor. Is there anything I should know when attaching (slate) tiles to a wall? Do I need to remove any paint, or can I get an adhesive that will bond (PL Premium or regular mortar mix?). How close should the grout lines be with slate? I know with marble you want them close, and with ceramic you can have some space. How do you ensure the tiles don‘t slip when attached to a vertical wall. Sorry for the questions, but I do appreciate any suggestions and answers!
Only loose paint needs to be removed. If your paint has no chips or bubbles there's no reason to try taking it off. Your grout lines can be from 1/8 to 1/4' depending on your preference. Use a premixed ceramic wall adhesive such as Pro-Lastic, Pro-Flex, or Pro-Mastic Thinset. To keep tiles from slipping, simply start at the floor and work up, applying spacers between the tiles as you work. The adhesive will keep the tiles from falling off the wall, and the spacers and tiles below will keep them from sliding down. Some tiles come with built in plastic spacers for wall installation. It is possible for the tiles to sag a little so check with a level from time to time.
Q:How easy is it to tile a kitchen floor. Plus would you lay the tiles directly onto the concrete sub floor or lay concrete boards or chipboards underneath. I would also like to continue this to the hallway and under stairs. Thanks.
Depending on the age of the cement subfloor, it would be my first choice, even if I had to prep it first to insure a good bond. Definitely not cement board, it's not designed or engineered to be walked on, the results downstream would be disastrous. There is a grade of board specifically called underlayment, and it would be my second choice. It needs to be nailed down to cement subfloor about every 6 inches in both directions, very tedious. Not so bad on wood, can be screwed down.This is not hard job, just hard work. Hands and knees, get up to cut a piece, back down to hands and knees. Spread mortar or adhesive, set tile, check for level, spread - set - level, over and over. And level in both directions, North - South, and East - West, and level from tile to tile as well. Really good tile setters make very good money. Very important for you to know: floor tile is thicker than wall tile. It should be 3/8 inch minimum, or 9 mm. Wall tile is generally thinner, and will crack under the stress of weight on it.
Q:I have just had a room tiled with porcelain tiles. They are non-shiny matte tiles and it was suggested to me that i should use a sealer. What sealer would be better to use, a water based or solvent based? What are the differences between using the two?
Penetrating sealer.. Although a water based product, a couple of coats will last years. Mist on( w/ a spray bottle) wipe it thoroughly over the tile and grout with a damp cloth. I dampen a cloth with the sealer. Let set for 10/15 minutes and wipe excess off amd dry. Don t let it puddle and dry. Repeat at least once , twice if possible. The grout must be set for a minimum of 3 days with all the excess grout has all cleaned off. I ve have only used 2 brands over the years Cerama Seal and Miricle 511. I m sure theres others out there but I stick to what works.. Any questions you can e mail through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

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