• Four Wheel Trailer Diesel Water Pump for Irrigation System 1
  • Four Wheel Trailer Diesel Water Pump for Irrigation System 2
  • Four Wheel Trailer Diesel Water Pump for Irrigation System 3
  • Four Wheel Trailer Diesel Water Pump for Irrigation System 4
Four Wheel Trailer Diesel Water Pump for Irrigation

Four Wheel Trailer Diesel Water Pump for Irrigation

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
10000 set/month

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           Four Wheel Trailer Diesel Water Pump for Irrigation

1.Structure of Four Wheel Trailer Diesel Water Pump for Irrigation Description

The pumps are designed for economical & trouble-free operation in handling solids-laden liquids and slurries, it handle up to 76.2mm spherical solids. Pumps feature a large volute design which allows them to re-prime automatically in a completely open system without the need of suction or discharge check valves. And this is workable with the pump only partially filled with liquid and completely dry suction line. Standard Self-Priming pump units are available for Solids Handling or Clear Liquid service. Typical mounting configurations areEngine Driven for Skid or Trailer Mounted packages and Frame Mounted Electric Driven.Pumps also are available in a variety of different metallurgies.

2.Main Features of Four Wheel Trailer Diesel Water Pump for Irrigation

Big pump body pass 76.2mmsolid ,high suction head 7.6 m

Replaceable Wear Plate

Heavy Duty Suction Flapper

Removable Inspection Cover allows Clean-out, Impeller, Seal and Flapper without disturbing Piping

Semi-Opened Trash Handling Impeller

Cartridge Type Mechanical Seal for Ease of Maintenance

3.Four Wheel Trailer Diesel Water Pump for Irrigation Images

Diesel Driven Self Priming Sewage Water Pump

4.Four Wheel Trailer Diesel Water Pump for Irrigation Specification

Material

 

Cast Iron, ADI, CD4MCU, 316 SS, Alloy 20, C276.

Diesel Driving

 

Water cooled or air cooled

Method of Connection

Self-priming pumps are available as basic units or may be flex-coupled, V-belt driven or engine mounted.

Inlet/Outlet

 

2''(50mm), 3''(75mm), 4''(100mm), 6''(150mm), 8''(200mm), 10''(250mm), 12''(300mm)

Impeller Diameter

 

158.74mm-457.2mm

Rotary Speed

 

550RPM-2150 RPM

Flow Rates

 

8m3/h-1275m3/h

Head

 

6m-63m

Horsepower

 

1HP-125HP

Solid Passing

 

20.63mm-76.2mm

5.FAQ

①What is the lead time for samples?

7-10days

How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of product within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. It related to the state and detailed requirement of customers.

 

Q: One repair shop on the phone says I will need new water pump, coolant flush and *850.00. On the other hand the dealer says I may need tow other drive belts (alternator +). Second dealer says I may need a water pump! I do not wish to get stuck with extra costs! any one with experience?
Do you NEED a new water pump? No. Is it a good idea at this mileage to do the WP with the T-belt? Yes. The reason being if the water pump were not replaced and it were to fail at some point in the future you would have to pay all of that labor again since the timing belt has to be removed to get at it. Now the pump may never fail but it could which is why this is recommended as preventive maintenance. A T-belt on this car whether 4 or 6-cylinder books for 3.0 hours of labor time. Adding the water pump while the mechanic is already in there just adds 0.4 to 0.7 hours of labor time and the cost of the pump and coolant flush. Since the coolant flush is probably due anyway that really isn't even an additional cost. Similarly, the accessory drive belts have to come off when doing the timing belt. If they are worn or still original there is no labor additional charge to replace them at this time, just the cost of the parts. In the end it is up to you. To save money now you can opt just to replace the Timing Belt and perhaps the accessory belts as well and leave the pump alone. Ideally a water pump will last the life of the engine but then my shop replaces 4-5 water pumps a week that have failed so it can and does happen. If you opt to leave it alone just keep in mind that if it does fail you will have to pay all that labor a second time. If your willing to take that risk then....
Q: I am trying to replace my old water pump with a new one. I have the quot;special tooland everything but i just cant get the water pump to come loose at all. Any suggestions would be helpful Thanks
When you mean it wont come loose, do you mean you cant break the bolts loose or is the pump stuck on the motor like glue? If the bolts are stuck, try spray them with penetrating oil and let it work in for about 30 mins. If the pump is stuck, use a narrow putty knif, gently tap in between the pump and the block, and pry it off, then clean the mating surface completely to ensure the new pump seals properly.
Q: im thinking about buying a 93 ford taurus for $950. the owner says it will probably need a new water pump and brakes in the near future. is it worth it? i dont know anything about cars!
if okorder for the water pump
Q: the outboard runs fine and pumps water out with muffs on but when i put it in the water it doesn't pump any water at all. could it be that the impeller needs replacing? what do you think?thanks
Replacing okorder /
Q: There are heard buzzing, but can not move and no death card, is not a bad capacitor, how much is the direct standard capacitance it?
The home pump does not turn, but the motor is energized:A: there are heard buzzing, but can not move and no death card. It is likely that the boot capacitor is broken and that the capacitor can be measured with a universal meter.Two: if the motor is sure to have electricity, check whether there is low voltage or broken phase (three-phase motor). These conditions also cause the motor not to rotate, or the speed is low (easy to block), so it should be measured with a universal meter.Three: you can smell there is no burning flavor, may be motor winding interphase short-circuit. Bearings should be hard to break, and it's probably not good to find repairs.If the capacitor is replaced, it is better to choose the same capacitor as the original configuration parameter. If the capacitor is damaged and does not know or can not see the mark parameter, it can be calculated and matched according to the following formula:In C=8JS (F), the capacitance of the C- is S- (F). The current density of the starting winding of J- motor is generally selected from 5 to 7A/ (mm) 2, and the cross section area (mm2) of the starting winding winding. Generally, you can choose 1000W/40 F.
Q: what could cause a impeller on a water pump to be completly shredded up i just had to change mine in my toyota camry and was wondering if i could do anything to prevent this from happening again?
I'm guessing it had a plastic impeller. Sometimes there are updated pumps with metal impellers.
Q: Please specify the reason, the more detailed the better, the head is the pump 1N fluid on the work done, when the flow rate increases, the shaft power increases, but it does not necessarily have to do with the head of the relationship
First of all, the power of the pump is determined by the motor. When the power is certain, work must be done. According to w=mgh, the flow determines mg, the head is h, you think, if the flow rate is large, is the head smaller?. This is theoretical, and at the same time, you see, the water pump characteristic curve can also see that the flow rate increases, the corresponding smaller head.
Q: I have a cabin cruiser and I recently took it out of storage and had it de winterized. Now everything seems to work except for the fresh water pump for the sink, shower and toilet. Does this type of pump need to be primed? If so how do you prime it? Thank you for the help.
Those pumps are usually self priming.. either you have a PLUGGED LINE or the water pump froze in the cold and it needs to be replaced... but they are cheap.
Q: I installed a circulating pump in the far bathroom, since the length to the water heater made for a long wait. It takes 25 seconds for the hot water to arrive, which means 25 seconds of hot water wasted, once the water is shut off.Is it cheaper to, selectively(2 settings on timer) run the pump, or just wait on the hot water? And without the consideration, that time equals money. I imagine the more people that use it, the more efficient it gets.
If you mean your hot water heater is not heating as fast as it should be, is there anything wrong with the heater itself? Is the temperature setting proper? It sounds like you may mean it is just taking a long time for the hot water to get to the faucet. A lot of things can factor into that: --long pipe runs --colder winter temperature --less insulation of pipes The only things I can think of to reduce waste are: --making sure that all hot water tasks are done at about the same time, e.g., baths one after another, so the water cannot cool off in the pipes between bathers; --water heater timer or install a tankless water heater or two; --not running the water the whole time in the shower, e.g., wet down, turn off water, soap up, rrinse. --keeping buckets to fill with the cooler water, then using that water for plant watering, the first cycle in a clothes washer, or toilet flushing.
Q: im looking at a 87 bmw 325 and the only thing wrong with it is the water pump and cosmetic stuff.. its a cheap deal and i want to know if i could replace it with very little experience under the hood. rate it from 1 to 10.. 1 being as easy as changing your oil and 10 being i would probably have to take it to a mechanic..or jus let me know what you think.
If you found it and there isnt too much stuff in the way; it is simple to replace...all you do is drain the radiator,take off the pump, clean off the old gasket,get the new gasket on,and pump on and tighten carefully the bolts like a wheel( like # 1;3;5;1;3;5) with a torque wrench(cause the housing cant take it tooo tight) do not over tighten...fill the rad and check for leaks...

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