• Fiber Cement Board Water Proof  Type with Best Quality System 1
  • Fiber Cement Board Water Proof  Type with Best Quality System 2
  • Fiber Cement Board Water Proof  Type with Best Quality System 3
Fiber Cement Board Water Proof  Type with Best Quality

Fiber Cement Board Water Proof Type with Best Quality

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
600 pc
Supply Capability:
20000 pc/month

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Products Introduction:

Our fiber cement board is made of high-grade cement and modified material, reinforced by natural fiber. Being processed by high pressure and high temperature advanced technologies, Sanle fiber cement board is a new building material with excellent performances.


Features

Fire Proof & Insulation
Class A non-inflammability, no toxic gas, low in perveance, good electric insulation material

Waterproof and Moisture Proof
In semi-outdoor area and under high temperature condition, performance of Sanle boards is stable and will not bend or deform.

Thermal Insulation and Sound Insulation
Low thermal conductivity, good heat insulation, high in density, sound proof

Light weight & High strength
Pressured by 5000-ton hydraulic machine, it is high in strength and light in weight. It is not easy to deform and bend, and good for flooring and roofing.

Easy installation
The installation of boards is dry operation, which is faster. It can be processed with ordinary wood working tool. The board is easy to be processed.

Economical and Good looking
The boards are light in weight. Together with the use of keels, they can save cost of construction and decoration. The painting is uniform, and the surface is smooth, making the exterior of buildings good-looking and attractive.

Safe and Harmless
Test result of Sanle boards is better than national radiation protection standards of building materials. The radiation from Sanle boards is equal to that from the lawn 20 meters away from the building. The lifespan of Sanle boards is very long, and they are resistant to acid and alkali, moisture and insects. The toughness and strength remains the same when time passes by. So they can be used for a long time.

Easy to install and easy to replace
Sanle boards can be drilled, cut, engraved, nailed, painted and covered by tiles or sticker when necessary..


Product parameters

Item

Unit

Requirement

Medium   density

High   density

Density

g/cm3

1.2<< span="">D≤1.5

1.5<< span="">D≤2.0

Water   absorption

%

≤30

≤25

Non-combustibility

GB   8624-2006, grade A

wet   expansion

%

≤0.25

Beding   strength

dry

MPA

Strength   grade class III

20

Strength   grade class IV

24

Saturation   with water

12

14

Applications

Exterior side boards, indoor partition walls, sound-proof ceiling, decoration boards, complex walls, outdoor billboards, division boards and floor boards


Installation:

(1) Lightweight and high strength: 3-4 kg/m2 (1/10 of half brick wall), with yield strength 400mpa.

(2) Environment-friendly : galvanized steel-no radiation, have no harm to our health and not pollute the environment.

(3) Products with fillisters : Setting some fillisters in both sides of the keels in a selective way, in order to strength the keels' vertical points and intensity.

(4) The metal stud with hole : one of our product is the special hole on C-stud every 600mm, which is easy for workers to install the electric lines and water tubes.

(5) Various sizes of metal track and metal stud : we are able to manufacture German,Japanand Aus-American types etc..We can meet your customized demands.

(6) Factory direct sale price : We have our own factory to produce raw materials----galvanized(zinc coated) steel, as well as the product line, so we can provide you a lowest price.




Q:Can fiber cement board be used as an external wall?
Cement fiberboard and fiber cement hangers Is a product of the two names, in fact, no difference. The cementitious materials are cement, and the reinforcing materials are fibers (asbestos fibers and / or cellulose fibers). The fiberboard name emphasizes the reinforcing material 'fiber'
Q:Just put cement type 1 portland,over hardie board about 3/8 of an in. how long do i have to wait to stain it?
i would give it a week, it should set pretty quick...
Q:I'm putting in a new tub surround this weekend (gutting the bathroom wall and starting from scratch). After I put cement board on the studs and install the tub surround, there will be a space about foot high between the surround and the ceiling. The cement board will be exposed. Can I paint the cement board so it matches the colors of the bathroom? Do I need to buy special paint or something? Obviously, I've never done this sort of thing before and I appreciate any advice I can get.
You may want to run the concrete backer only about 3' up that will cover the real wet part of the tub surround then just use the green sheet rock on the top. Tape and float it put the surround up then texture and paint. Use semi gloss paint all over your restroom area with a added mildew inhibitor even if the paint is mildew resistant. Just tell them you don't care you want to add it anyway.
Q:do I have to remove the vinyl floor covering or can I just put the cement board over it
You can lay right on top of the vinyl. Just make sure there are no uneven areas in the subfloor before you start.
Q:i am going to tile my bathroom floors , and the walls around the shower stall and bath tub.. what do i use where and what is the difference.
I usually use Hardiboard on walls, but will use either on floors...I don't particularly like the way wonderboard &amp; similar products crumble, especially with multi-cut corners. Good luck...
Q:I'm having old (30 plus years), damaged slate tiles removed and replacing it with ceramic tiles. I've discovered there is cement underlayment under the slate tiles. I'm having this work done for me and so far the floor looks like grenades have hit it. There are pot holes. How in the world are you suppose to remove these slates tiles that have been adhered to cement?? And, how do you repair the flooring to eventually lay down cement board and ceramic tiles?? I'm sick to my stomach.
A thin layer of new mortar will fill in and cover the rough surface. Cement board shouldn't even be necessary.
Q:Hi I was thinking of bonding Hardiflex Fiber Cement Board to a Wood Chipboard, I want to know if it is possible to bond this two things using D3 Wood Glue?Will They be bonded with same strength as wood to wood?Thanks!
The problem is that the chipboard may not be rated to support the cement board. If it has flex, the cementboard will crack and so will the tile. Go back to Home Depot.
Q:I removed old tile from my bathroom walls as well as the old vinyl flooring. Underneath the vinyl was cement backerboard, which is good. But all around the outer edges where the wall tile used to be, is a 1 inch gap where the floor board are showing. How do I get this gap filled? Do I need to rip up the old cement backerboard and start over? Can I cut small strips of new backerboard to slip in the crevice? Is there a compound I can fill the gap with? Any help out there?
Fill it with thin-set. There won't be any pressure applied along the wall. Fill with thin-set and wait 24 hours to dry before installing tile. Just make sure to smooth it out and it's level with rest of the backer-board floor.
Q:I want to remove and replace my laminate covered counter tops, the particle board underneath is chipping bad near some edges,and there's almost no good place to put screws in to hold the dishwasher. I need plans or instructions how to build a replacement so I can use plywood and cement board to install ceramic tiles. How do I frame it for the sink and the edges?
Actually you don't really frame a sink. You can add blocking underneath to screw to, but you really just cut the sink hole, if you are using the same sink then you will need to use the old hole as a template for the new one. If you are putting in a new sink then you will use the template on the box. You should use at least 3/4 high grade plywood and add the tile backer boards to the top. That will make it plenty think. You just cut the boards the size of the old countertop and screw then to the blocking on the wall and to the blocking in the cabinets. Blocking is additional pieces of wood that are strategiacally placed to have a larger surface to screw into and additional support. I am in commercial construction and we place the blocking inside the walls before we sheetrock, but in your case you may have to add it in other places to have enough support. Hope you have lots of luck, take your time and if you start to get frustrated ask for more help.
Q:how do I lay cement board on a concrete floor with out screws?
That would be an improper installation. The screws push the board down into the adhesive. Go to the manufactures website. They have guides on how to properly install cement board. I used Durock to build a hearth for my wood stove. Their website actually had an installation document on how to do it.

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