Copper Aluminum Coil

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Ceiling fan has Green, Blue, black and white and the ceiling only has a black wire and white wire.
That fan has separate power leads, either for light/fan, or two speeds. The simplest way is just tie black and blue from the fan to blk from the box, and white to white. The wall switch will control the whole thing, one speed or fan + Lt.s.
It every download on lime-wire basic free and is the down load of lime-wire basic free is lime wire really illegal thanks
Lime Wire is LEGAL.. just not the illegal content you download on it. Also, just because somebody buys LimeWire Pro doesn't mean it is legal to download songs.. The chance of getting caught is low though, so I wouldn't worry about it.
im assuming red to red and black to black? but then what about the extra green and white wires in the iphone cable? where do they go?
Those are the USB wires. For a charger, they need connected through voltage setting resistors.
I am re wiring a hanging lamp. I know the black wire is the hot. My problem is this, the replacement wire is gold. There is no apparent groove in the wire, but one side does have writing on it. If I remember correctly the side with the writing is the hot?
That will work. Both wires are the same, but one needs to be assigned as black AT BOTH ENDS. You could use the wire with the writing in it, or mark one wire with black magic marker, and carefully trace that same wire to the other end and mark it with black magic marker too. (But if there is no groove in the wire insulation, you probably won't be able to trace one wire from one end to the other. In that case, you'd need to use an electrician's continuity meter to find the same wire at the other end). The other two answerer's are correct that the bulb will light, BUT it will be unsafe if wired backwards. NAILBENDER's answer fails to recognize the safety hazard of wiring the hot to the wrong side of a light. You don't want the hot side to electrify the threaded sides of an electrical light bulb fixture! The hot needs to be on the bottom center of the bulb fixture. ROODOG1's answer also fails to recognize that someone could get shocked when screwing in (or out) a light bulb and touching the threaded side of the bulb which may be hot if wired wrong. DILLIGAF makes the same error, even though he says he's an electrician! Read a do-it-yourself electricians website; don't rely on these people's answers! Exception: If your lamp is plug-in that does not have one prong wider than the other, then it doesn't make a difference which wire is hot because the plug goes into the receptacle either way.
How much wire is required?
google awg wire table and find the resistivity of nichrome wire it will have wire of different diameters listed. 1/32 is .031 or 31 mils in diameter which closely approximates 20awg wire 20awg nichrome60 wire has 659 ohms per thousand feet An example if it says 10,243 ohms/1000' you will need (2.2/10,243) * 1000 feet of wire for your resistor to Neville:--- The wire doesn't know what system of units you used to calculate the answer. It works fine in English units.
I removed my old door chime/bell a few years ago and replaced it with a wireless one. That one quit working and now I am attempting to install a new wired one again. The only problem is, when I removed my old one way back, I failed to label the existing wires to where they go. I have two wires coming out of my wall mount, one white, one brown and the both have a white and red wire sticking out of them. I am not sure which one/ones will connect to the FRONT and TRANS posts on my new chime. I don't have a rear door bell button so that is not a problem. Which wire goes to the FRONT and TRANS and do I cap off any of the 4 wires? My installation instructions don't cover the mindless mistake of not having the wires labled.
Garage door springs are part of the garage door itself, not the garage door opener. That said, it must also be added that the springs make it much easier to raise and lower the door. They generally last a long time, and they have only one function. But over time, all that lifting, through all those weather changes, tend to weaken the metal and lead to a break. In my case, the springs appeared to be original to the house, which means they've been at work since 1956. Once you understand that long record of service, it becomes a little hard to complain when they finally break down. And break down they did. It was a Sunday afternoon, and we were sitting around the quiet house reading. Suddenly, we heard a large noise that sounded like a very heavy object had fallen on the roof, or maybe a car had driven into the side of the house. I quickly started hunting around for the cause, and couldn't find a thing. So much noise, and no noticeable cause? Didn't make sense . . . until I went out later and tried to open the garage door. Even then, it took me some time to figure out that the spring had split. Once I discovered it (see photo), I knew I'd found the source of the noise. With a broken spring and a solid wood door to a two-car garage, you really can forget about opening the door. I couldn't lift it more than an inch.
Theirs a green ground wire, a white neutral wire and for some reason 3 black wires.
it could be for the lights if its an option otherwise connect all the black together to the hot wire. What does the instructions say? worst it can do is trip the breaker.
I am installing a Pioneer head unit in a 1997 Nissan Pathfinder. All the wires from the harness to the deck are connected according to color. I was able to connect all of the wires except for the stock orange/black wire coming out of Nissan's harness. I am assuming this wire has something to do with the illumination. The pioneer does not have an orange/black wire to connect it to. The deck will not turn on at all if the orange/black wire is:- not connected to anything- connected to the red power wire- connected to the yellow power wireThe deck will turn on if the orange/black wire is:- connected to the black ground wire- connected to the remote wireHowever when the headlights are turned on the head unit cuts off and will not turn back on until the headlights are shut off again. In other words, the deck will work fine until the headlight switch is turned to the on position. Does anyone know a solution to this problem?Thanks, Dan
they are there merely in the adventure that your automobile has a characteristic to dim upload-ons. you dont want them connect them everywhere in maximum circumstances, thy are in basic terms a luxury in the adventure that your automobile has that characteristic.