Zinc-5% aluminum-mischmetal alloy-coated steel wire strand

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Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: -

Supply Capability:: 100000 m.t./month

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Quick Details

Steel Grade:72B,60#.70#,80#
Standard:AISI, ASTM, BS, DIN, GB, JIS
Wire Gauge:1.0-30.0
Place of Origin:Zhejiang, China (Mainland)
Type:Galvanized
Application:Rope
Alloy Or Not:Non-alloy
Special Use:Cold Heading Steel
Model Number:1*3,1*7,1*19,1*37
Brand Name:Renlong
construction:1*7

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:	wooden reel,in coils/on reels/nude,woven cloth pr as the customer's request
Delivery Detail:	15days after recieving payment in advance

Specifications

alloy-coated steel wire strand :
mainly used for power industry,fishery tool and mesh,trunk line electrification and so on

Zinc-5% aluminum-mischmetal alloy-coated steel wire strand with construction 1*3,1*7,1*19 mainly used for power industry,fishery tool and mesh,trunk line electrification and so on.

Q: The application is a bathroom light and exhaust fan combination. The fixtures wires are thiner than the supply wires. Should I wrap the thinner wire around the thicker wire or should I wrap them equally around each other? Then can I put a drop of solder on before I put the wire nut. Or is solder not a good idea?: Solder is unnecessary. Be sure to use the proper sized wire nut, and twist the wires together. after you install the wire nut, give each wire a slight tug to ensure that they are securely connected. Hope this helps.

Q: I recently re-wired my house with 4 wire telephone wire. They all meet in the attic. How do I wire them together and is there some kind of junction plate I can use? Additionally, I did also wire my house with Cat6 wire, but would like to keep it strictly for Internet.: (links just for reference, from search engine results)

Q: i want to rewire my trailer harness on my truck. i have a 6 wire roung plug but i wat a 7 wire plug. what is the 7 wires for?: Prepare for accurate and confusing information. The center pin on a 7 pin plug is generally used for backup lights (black wire) if you have them wired in. Being that you have a 6 pin plug you probably don't so you will disregard the center pole. This is the order of color starting from the ground pole (white wire). The ground pole should be the one next to the slot in the body of the plug that lines it up with the plug housing when you put it all together. White (ground), Yellow (L turn), Brown (tail lights), Red (battery charge wire), Green (R turn), Blue (trailer brakes). If you don't have trailer brakes, disregard that pole. The brake lights work through the turn signals, if they are wired separately, it is wrong. Starting at the ground pole next to the slot in the plug, the order of colors goes around the plug in the direction away from the slot, you will end with the blue wire on the other side of the slot next to the white wire. It's very confusing to explain and when you read the colors on the plug compared to what I have told you, you will definately scratch your head. This is the (U.S.) national standard for all trailer wiring, unfortunalely, not all manufacturers adhere to this thus causing confusion for people such as yourself. I cannot even begin to guess how many trailers I have wired and how many tow packages I have installed on cars and trucks. I wish there was an easier way to explain it but the only other option is a diagram which answers does not support. Worse comes to worse and you don't like any of the other answers you get, e-mail me and I will mail you a diagram or maybe even a picture if I can come up with one.

Q: I know I am suppose to run the RCA cables and power cables on opposite sides of the car, but which side do I put the speaker wires on, ps I have an amp so I'll be running the wires from my trunk: Red white yes, shouldn't need the toggle. It will turn off with the ignition.

Q: THERMOSTAT WIRING: try this site

Q: have 0 gauge power wire, but don't have a ground wire! can I use the power wire as a ground wire if I cut a piece off?: 0 gauge? you probably have 14 awg, and yes, you can cut off a piece and use it as the ground strap, but you would be better off to use an actual ground wire, because later on if someone goes to work on that outlet they could miswire the new one. EDIT whoops, just saw the category, i saw this question on the main page, i was thinking home AC...not car audio, my bad.

Q: So I know that the neutral wire is the 'return wire'. But why does my textbook say that it has the potential to have the same amount of electricity as the live wire (if the wiring is faulty)? But essentially, if the wiring is not faulty it is technically safe to touch it, it has 0 volts.Could someone explain this to me?: In the absence of faults, the neutral should be safe. It is normally connected to ground at the supply entry board or at the substation/transformer. In the event that a neutral wire becomes disconnected between an appliance and the supply entry board, it will be at the same potential as the live wire.

Q: i have a 3mm diameter wire that has only a single thick conductor and it's really really hard?how do i know if it is a magnetic wire or not?are thick magnetic wires hard or soft to be wrapped?are there other types of wire that have a single conductor thick conductor?note: single thick conductorgt;gt; i mean they are not thin parallel collected wires like usual: All okorder /

Q: Just bought a new amp for my truck. The speaker outputs needs to be indiviually wired to the door speakers. Do you splice into the speaker wire or the trucks harness?: ideally you want to wire directly from the amp to the door speakers with new speaker wire but doing this properly requires removing some of the trimming and passing the new wires throughout the car. you can also take the easier route and pass the wires from your amp up under the steering wheel behind the center console and splice them into the existing wires going to the door speakers. as long as the wattage isn't very high the latter shouldn't be a problem. however, if it were up to me i would use new wires and pass them throughout the car, removing the trimmings, etc. this can be somewhat of a pain to do if you have never done it before though.

Q: Whenever I'm making jewelry, I typically wind up using crimp beads (with toggle closures, in most cases). Whenever I cut off the beading wire at the end, after enclosing the crimp bead around it, there's always this itsy bitsy part of the wire that irritates me to no end when I wear the jewelry. It seems that I can only cut the wire so much before I wind up snipping at the crimp bead. How can I remedy the irritation fact of the left-over wire?Maybe put glue on the wire piece and let it dry? Idk. Grr.: Depending on the size of the hole in the beads, I usually run the wire down throw about 2 inches worth of beads; then crimp and clip. This also ensures that if the necklace if caught and pulled you have about 2 inches of slack before you are chasing beads on the floor. If you hole in the beads are small you can do two different things. 1) find a coordinating bead with larger holes that you can end the necklace with on both sides of the catch 2) Be sure your wire is running straight back down the original wire after going through the crimp, then crimp and clip.The end of the wire will be straighter and not tend to go out to the side and punch your neck. And unfortunately there is not a solution every time.

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