Round Copper Aluminum Magnesium Alloy Wire

Round Copper Aluminum Magnesium Alloy Wire

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 10 m.t.

Supply Capability:: 1000 m.t./month

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1.Features of copper clad aluminum magnesium alloy wire:

Specifications: 0.08-3.2mm

Status: H112

Hardness (500kg force 10mm ball): 70-85

Tensile strength (25 ℃ when MPa): 180

The yield strength (25 ℃ when MPa): 211

Melting range (℃): 570-640

Conductivity (20 ℃ pm): 29% IACS

2.Introduction of copper clad aluminum magnesium alloy wire:

Aluminum-magnesium alloy wire is high strength low alloy steel, heat treatment has good mechanical properties, high strength, sufficient toughness, hardenability, weldability (preheat), processing formability are good, but the resistance low corrosion resistance and oxidation resistance, usually after quenching and tempering or isothermal use. High strength quenched and tempered steel. Has high strength and toughness, high hardenability, cold plastic deformation moderate, good cutting performance.

3.Image of copper clad aluminum magnesium alloy wire:

Round Copper Aluminum Magnesium Alloy Wire

4.Technical parameters: of copper clad aluminum magnesium alloy wire:

Name	single crystal Copper Wire
Model number	1701
Diameter	0.27mm
Standard	IEC60317
Test Item	Unit	Technical Requirement	Test Result
Appearance		bright and clean, Uniform color,	Ok
Overall Diameter	mm	<=0.302mm	0.295
Conductor Diameter	mm	0.270±0.004 mm	0.27
Roundness Tolerance	mm	<=0.004 mm	0.002
Thickness of insulation film	mm	>=0.018mm	0.025
Elongation		>=22 %	30%
spring-back angle		<=47	43
Flexibility and adhesion	winding test	1D	1
Flexibility and adhesion	Jerk test	No Crack, and No losing adhesion	OK
heat shock		0.630mm	ok
cut-through resistance		320C, 2Min no breakdown	2
Resistance to solvent		1H	1
Breakdown Voltage	KV	>=2.2 KV	7.6 7.0 6.8 6.2 7.7
scratch resisting(Average)	N	3.25 N	7.98
scratch resisting(Min)	N	2.75 N	7.12
package		Meet the export standards	Ok
Enamel Film continuity		<=25 /30m	0
Quality Control Result		Ok

5.FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clients，may help you sincerely：

①How about your Warranty？

Warranty: 1-Year for the whole light. Warranty is based on correct storage, installation, using and maintenanc

②How to guarantee the quality of the products？

We have established the international advanced quality management system，every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test；We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

③How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of product within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. The pecific time of receiving is related to the state and position of customers.Commonly 7 to 10 working days can be served.

Q:can you use your existing phone line jacks and wire, then convert the jacks to lan to network computers or printers?: There's really a big difference between a LAN and WAN connection. WAN connection can be easily interrupted by some interference compared to LAN connection. I would recommend that you instead check the speed that you are getting from your ISP instead of depending on the speed that you are getting out form you adapter connection statuses. If you really want to get a better WAN speed connection you might as well check your modem or router wireless setting cause ideally adapters are only there to receive a signal and if there is a problem with you getting a good speed still after making sure that your PC is working OK you might as well use another modem or router.

Q:Is it possible for a wire to arc with a nail? The u-nail that hangs the wire to a wooden support beam looks like it was hammered in too far and may have cut through the insulation around the wire. Is this a fire hazard or can I leave it as is?: Did it cut through the outside sheathing or one of the conductor sheathing? If its just the outside sheathing, remove the staple and secure the wire further away. Use electrical tape and wrap the cut...If it has penetrated one of the inside conductors, well, without seeing it its hard to tell you. The biggest concern would be if the wire ever overheated there is less 'insulation' to prevent it from burning into a neighbouring wire. Err on the side of caution. More detail would help.

Q:i already tried wiring this light, but it didn't work. I always thought black wire to black, white to white and ground to ground. i connected the light fixture black wire to the three black wires (as shown in image) and the light fixture white wire to the three white wires, and connected ground wires together.when i flipped on the breaker, the light came on with the switch on off and the breaker tripped. i'm assuming this is wrong and i provided an image as i see in my ceiling mount. Can somebody kindly direct me how to properly connect the light fixture to these wires. thanks!: without seeing the ceiling fixture container and wiring myself, i may well be hesitant to propose you as to what the greater wires are for. I anticipate which you mean the sector on the ceiling has those wires in them, not the ceiling fixture which you obtain, on account that that could have had a wiring diagram that explains what the wires may well be for. If I had to guess, i might say that the sector contains 3 wires because of the undeniable fact that it is going to have had a ceiling fan that operated on a various substitute than the easy, or possibly the easy is additionally controlled from 2 particular switches on unique aspects of the room, or may well be the two one in each of those. Do you have gotten an AC voltage tester to verify which wires are sizzling (stay) and which at the instant are not? I hate to propose this, although by potential of and massive your great wager is to conform with the wires back to their source to look what they're for. Do you have gotten a faux ceiling you are able to open up? Do the wires pass into the attic or crawlspace the place you ought to look at them jointly as not having to tear open the gypsum board or plaster ceiling? you ought to easily positioned all the whites mutually and all the blacks mutually, and verify the grounds are in place, hoping they have a reason. although now not information what they're there for is a sturdy thank you to rationale an electric fire. and that i'm specific doing that could now not be authorized via your close by electric development codes.

Q:On the wires leading to existing system I can see the main power lead. However all the other wires are different in color leading to existing valves. From the wire bundle two black wires (the only black wires) lead out to nothing and were left with no electrical end caps protecting. Manual says nothing on wiring valves. Any ideas on black wires? Or how can I splice in to existing system wires at valve point having one valve working at a time when system is operating? Am I going to have to get a new controler or run new wires existing controler?: The wire that goes to all the valves is the common. The other color wires go to the other wire on the valves. One colored wire per valve. That is how the valve gets power. It is common to run extra wires when doing a sprinkler system. So the 2 wires that are not being used are there just in case you ever need them. So tie one wire from each valve to the common then the other wire to an unused wire. Just make sure that your timer is capable of handling the extra valves.

Q:If I knew which wires went to trim, rpms,engine hours,ect... I could follow them. The engine wiring harnes is stil intact, but I dont know which wire goes to each no matter which end I look at. Like I said wiring is no problem, don't know motors.: trim is dark brown with white trace. tach is gray. why do you need an hour meter? purple is switched power. black is ground. black with yellow trace is kill. yellow with black trace is choke/primer. yellow with red trace is solenoid/starter. now, let me hold a dollar big man.

Q:I need to know about the fuseable link. and or wiring diagrams.: fuseable link . power to coil when cranking motor 12 volt

Q:i got a fi bl 15dual 2 subwoofer. im wiring it down to 1 ohm.now for the problem. lets say im wiring the positive terminals together. am i suppose to wire it all with positive wire or can i also use negative copper wire? i used two positive wires and one negative wire to hook up the three positive terminals. is this bad? do i need to make all of them positive silver wires?: Wire is just wire. It alone does not know positive from negative. However, some great problems could lie below the surface. It really depends on what is on the other end of the wire. There may be some problems associated with not following a good wiring practice such as: Creating a short circuit and blowing the amp Putting one of the two speakers out of polarity with the other resulting in lower or no acoustical output. The best practice is to ALWAYS relate the positive or PLUS terminal with the wire with the same designation with the speaker terminal. That way, if you have to do any trouble shooting, you can trace is back and know without a doubt what is connected to what.

Q:Is there such a wire that is able to be wired that can actually keep something cold, like insulated? If not, is there anything remotely like it? thank you for your help.: If you are asking if you can electrically make cold like you can electrically make heat, you cannot, physics just doesn't allow it. Any device that is known to make cold does it by forcing the heat to go elsewhere, either by air or plumbing. If you mean you want to keep something at temperature, you need thermal insulation.

Q:i have until November 24 to choose between a wire or plastic retainer for when i get my braces off.In your answer please say why you would choose a wire or plastic retainer.: PERMANENT (WIRE) OR REMOVABLE (PLASTIC)? ADVANTAGES TO WIRE: CAN'T EVER BE LOST/BROKEN ADVANTAGES TO PLASTIC: CAN BE EASILY REMOVED FOR FLOSSING ALL SAID, I'D CHOOSE WIRE - WORRY FREE MAINTENANCE AND IT'S INVISIBLE TO OTHERS

Q:does copper, bell, or speaker wire carry energy faster: No, the speed of electricity along a wire is only a bit slower than the speed of light, and the type of wire does not change that by much if any. Besides, bell and speaker wire is usually copper. Note that the size of the wire determines how much energy is transferred along the wire as opposed to dissipating it in the wire itself. Thicker wire is better. .

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