• WNS Three Pass Conical Shell Type Oil ( Gas ) Steam Boiler System 1
  • WNS Three Pass Conical Shell Type Oil ( Gas ) Steam Boiler System 2
  • WNS Three Pass Conical Shell Type Oil ( Gas ) Steam Boiler System 3
  • WNS Three Pass Conical Shell Type Oil ( Gas ) Steam Boiler System 4
  • WNS Three Pass Conical Shell Type Oil ( Gas ) Steam Boiler System 5
WNS Three Pass Conical Shell Type Oil ( Gas ) Steam Boiler

WNS Three Pass Conical Shell Type Oil ( Gas ) Steam Boiler

Supplier:
Nantong Wanda Power Co., LTD.
Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
30 set/month

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Rated capacity:1~20 t/h

Rated work pressure:1.0~1.6Mpa

Adaptive fuel:Natural gas, city gas, blast furnace gas and coke oven gas mixture, biogas, waste gas and gas diesel, heavy oil, light oil, residue and other liquid fuels

Application industry : industrial and mining enterprises, schools, hospitals, etc.

           Main Technical Parameters of  oil(gas)fired  Boiler

Boiler Type

Rated Capacity

(t/h)

Rated Work Pressure

(MPa)

Rated Steam Pressure

(℃)

Feed Water   Temperature

(℃)

Thermal Efficiency   (%)

Max.Transport Weight

(t)

Max. Transportation   Size

L×W×H(m)

WNS1-1.0-Y(Q)

1

1.0

184

20

≥92

4.58

3.7╳1.84╳2.22

WNS1-1.0-Q

1

1.0

184

20

≥96

4.58

3.7╳1.84╳2.22

WNS1.5-1.0-Y(Q)

1.5

1.0

184

20

≥92

6.23

4.15╳1.84╳2.23

WNS2-1.0-Y(Q)

2

1.0

184

20

≥92

7.6

4.63╳2.03╳2.46

WNS2-1.0-Q

2

1.0

184

20

≥96

7.4

4.63╳2.03╳2.46

WNS2-1.25-Y(Q)

2

1.25

193

20

≥92

8.25

4.54╳2.03╳2.56

WNS2-1.25-Q

2

1.25

193

20

≥96

8.1

4.54╳2.03╳2.56

WNS3-1.25-Y(Q)

3

1.25

193

20

≥92

11.3

5.5╳2.3╳2.63

WNS4-1.25-Y(Q)

4

1.25

193

20

≥92

15.2

5.7╳2.48╳2.87

WNS4-1.25-Q

4

1.25

193

20

≥96

15.2

5.7╳2.48╳2.87

WNS4-1.6-Q

4

1.6

204

20

≥96

16.5

5.7╳2.48╳2.87

WNS6-1.25-Y(Q)

6

1.25

193

104

≥92

18

6.5╳2.64╳3.13

WNS6-1.25-Q

6

1.25

193

20

≥96

19

6.5╳2.64╳3.13

WNS6-1.6-Y(Q)

6

1.6

204

104

≥92

19.5

6.53╳2.67╳3.13

WNS6-1.6-Q

6

1.6

204

104

≥96

19.5

6.53╳2.67╳3.13

WNS8-1.25-Q

8

1.25

193

104

≥96

21.4

6.8╳2.84╳3.26

WNS10-1.25-Y(Q)

10

1.25

193

104

≥92

25.9

7.62╳2.94╳3.37

WNS10-1.25-Q

10

1.25

193

20

≥96

25.9

7.67╳2.94╳3.37

WNS10-1.6-Q

10

1.6

204

104

≥96

28

7.67╳2.94╳3.37

WNS15-1.25-YQ

15

1.25

193

104

≥92

35

8.65╳3.24╳3.55

WNS15-1.25-Q

15

1.25

193

104

≥96

35

8.65╳3.24╳3.55

WN15-1.6-Q

15

1.6

204

104

≥96

39

8.65╳3.24╳3.55

WNS20-1.25-Q

20

1.25

193

104

≥96

45.4

8.76╳4.12╳4.08

WNS20-1.6-Q

20

1.6

204

104

≥96

45.4

8.76╳4.12╳4.08

 

1.Structure introduction :

The boiler is a horizontal internal combustion three-circuit wet-back fire tube fast-loading boiler. The boiler body is assembled and shipped from the factory, and the tail is equipped with economizer and condenser to reduce the exhaust gas temperature.  

The boiler body is mainly composed of a drum, a corrugated furnace, a reburning chamber, two sets of smoke pipes, an inspection hole ring, a front and rear smoke box, and an explosion-proof door. The furnace, the reburning chamber, the smoke pipe, and the inspection hole ring are all installed in the boiler shell and completely immersed in the furnace water.

The flue gas flow process is furnace hearth → reburning chamber → first set of flue pipes → front flue box → second set of flue pipes → rear flue box → economizer → condenser → chimney, and the flue gas flows in an S-shaped flow. The insulation layer of the boiler is aluminum silicate refractory fiber, which ensures that the surface temperature of the boiler shell is lower than the national standard, and the heat loss is very small. 

2.    Uniqueness of WNS boiler

a. continuous innovation

Innovation is the company 's survival, Nantong WNS boiler in 2000 with six innovation points in the domestic patent application, patent number : 00241010.9.

b. energy saving gas

Ⅰ. Gas boiler expensive fuel costs so that owners have to seriously consider how to reduce this expenditure, and the minimum fuel consumption is the subject of our company for many years of tireless research, the company 's design and equipment everywhere the performance of this deliberate pursuit. 

       .The boiler heating surface is rich, the use of efficient heat transfer element threaded pipe, boiler thermal efficiency is high.

     Ⅲ. Configure the energy-saving device and the condenser, within the normal load range neither produce too much condensate, nor make the exhaust temperature is too high.

      . For any type of boiler, the fan pressure of the burner has a considerable amount of abundance, which is enough to overcome the additional resistance caused by the possible installation of energy-saving devices and condensers to ensure that the output of the boiler does not decrease at all.

    Ⅴ.According to the change of the steam pressure at the outlet of the steam boiler, the output of the combustion machine is automatically adjusted and the combustion machine is automatically started and stopped to stabilize the steam pressure in the most suitable range without unnecessary repeated heating and excessive heating.

     Ⅵ.Use the famous European and American brands of burner, and ensure the best match between the boiler and the burner, and automatically adjust the output of the burner according to the boiler load.

      Ⅶ.The proportionally regulated burner can not only operate stably at a desired load, but also save more fuel than the constant size of the fire.

      Ⅷ.The surface temperature of the boiler insulation shell is below 35 °C, and the heat loss is very small.

Ⅸ.High-quality imported valves to avoid leakage caused by the shutdown accident and hot water loss.

c.safe and reliable

      Ⅰ.The overall annealing of the boiler to eliminate welding residual stress, not only improves the safety and reliability, but also greatly extends the service life of the boiler.

      Ⅱ.Gas boiler furnace hearth is longer than the general manufacturers, furnace heating surface is larger, in order to avoid the gas caused by furnace outlet flue gas temperature rise too much.

      Ⅲ.Three-pass full-back structure, the reburning type and the flue pipe in the drum are all immersed in the boiler water. The flue pipe is fully welded with the front tube plate of the reburning chamber, rather than the ordinary angle welding connection. The inner side of the flue pipe inlet is ground into a circular arc to slow down the stress concentration and make the heat transfer easier, effectively preventing the thermal fatigue crack in the tube hole area of the tube plate.

      Ⅳ.Ignition program control, flameout detection and alarm, valve gas leakage detection and alarm, wind pressure and gas pressure detection and alarm to ensure combustion safety.

      Ⅴ.Double boiler temperature display control instruments and safety devices, all use international brand-name products to ensure the safe and economic operation of the boiler.

      Ⅵ.Explosion-proof door, check the door cover and seat are conical shape side seal ( rather than plane seal form ), smoke box door cover convex seal, ensure the good sealing of the boiler.

Ⅶ.Before leaving the factory, each boiler has passed the sealing test of 300mm H2O pressure.

d. Intelligent

Perfect start-up and shutdown procedures, automatic detection of operating conditions and faults, identification and prompts, reliable self-locking and interlocking functions, automatic adjustment of boiler and burner load functions, and imported internationally renowned brand control components not only make the operation of the boiler very simple, but also ensure that the boiler is always in a safe and economical condition.

e.easy to operate,appearance is neat and tidy

Ⅰ.The touch screen on the control system makes you clear about the boiler situation, and the operating parameters can be set at any time.

Ⅱ.Although the manhole device on the top and side of the drum increases a lot of manufacturing costs, it provides great convenience for inspection and maintenance.

Ⅲ.The outer packaging of stainless steel makes the boiler beautiful and durable.

f.Strong technical support and perfect after-sales service

Ⅰ.The regular safety and thermal testing continuously provide complete technical data for the safe and economic operation of the boiler.

Ⅱ.Repeated technical training, and operation guidance until the operator is fully skilled to master the operation, management, maintenance of the boiler skills, to achieve the professional level.

Ⅲ.regular and irregular inspection, commissioning, maintenance, so that the boiler is always in the best condition.

Ⅳ.24 hours a day all-weather service and adequate supply of accessories.

g. Applicable to a variety of fuels, whether liquid fuels such as light oil, heavy oil, residual oil and coal tar, or gas fuels such as natural gas, city gas, blast furnace gas and coke oven gas mixture, biogas, waste gas and gas can be well used.

Q:I understand that a boiler and a furnace both heat your home via different methods: the boiler heats water and circulates that water or steam, and a furnace heats air and circulates the hot air. If they have the same general function, what are the pros and cons of each? If you were building a new house, which would you install and why? I'm interested in a comparison based on longevity, reliability, purchase cost, monthly cost, safety, building code eligibility, and any other factors that I'm unaware of. Thanks!
Personal preference - I like hot water heat with radiators or under floor heating best. Boilers generally provide a more even heat across the room, if you put it in the floor, the floors are always warm. Downsides to boilers is that you need separate ducting for the air conditioning and boilers take a longer time to initially heat the house, so you can't turn it down for the day and expect it to warm up quickly when you come home at night. Boilers are quiet too when installed properly.
Q:Have a 5 yr old vokera combi boiler situated in cellar of a 3 storey house with some original 4 inch lead pipes. The pressure is always very low - about 0.5 on the dial. Get heating ok (although rads are noisy - a low hiss) and hw after about 45 secs. Should I be worried about the low pressure even though hw and heating are generally ok? Also one radiator doesn't work. Whilst fitting a new TRV, the plumbers discovered a blockage was preventing water flow as when they took rad off and opened up valve no water came out. They suggested the system needs power flushing (at a cost of some ?500!!). Could the low boiler pressure and this blockage be related? Is there a cheaper option than power flushing? Would really appreciate any help on this. I think possibly a combi boiler is innappropriate for the size of the house!
You need to repressurise the boiler asap. 0.5 is far too low and the boiler will cease to fire if it drops even slightly lower. You need to aim at 1.0 to 1.5 bar in the cold state. Read your manual on how to do it or go online for the instructions. It only invokes opening a valve or a pair of valves under the boiler. Nothing difficult. With regard to the blockage. You don't need to power flush. Wait until the summer and disconnect the TRV from the radiator. Turn up the system pressure to max which is probably about 2.5 bar. You can't do any harm as the safety vale will vent to outside the building at about this figure or just above. Holding a bowl in position open the TRV slowly and hopefully a slug of sludge will emerge. If it doesn't you need to release the pressure via a bleed valve, remove the TRV and get someone to turn up the pressure again whilst you poke a bit of wire along the pipe. Be prepared for a sudden deluge and catch it in a bucket. It will only pour out for a very short time as the pressure will drop quickly. Then add chemical cleanser to the system, flush and refill with inhibitor. I know it is a fuss but it beats paying them ?500 and you will have done a better job anyway. See the link for procedure. There is also a pic of a filling loop which your boiler may have.
Q:I have a combi boiler that recently had a part fixed as the hot water wasn't getting to the radiators (the hot water in the taps was fine). Since then I now only get hot water to the taps if I switch the hot water to the radiators on as well. Any idea why? Will this be due to a mistake the plumber made when he fitted the last part?
Your boiler needs to maintain a minium water temp,so when cold water flows thru the domestic water coil heat is transferred and the water is warmed up.this water temp.setting is on the aquastat and it may have been lowered .I would call the company and explain the problem.I think I would like to have the boiler maintain 130 degree water for the domestic coil.
Q:Can I adjust this water feeder?
Chances are the float is dirty which will cause overfilling. My old boiler had the same water feeder and I had to take it apart a couple times a year to clean the float. Rust and scale from the boiler water can stick to the float and housing. Refer to the web page below which has a link to a drawing that shows how to disassemble the unit. It is not a difficult task and be careful taking it apart because there is an O-ring that can be damaged. Clean all the parts with soap and water then reassemble. If it still overfills then it might be time to replace the unit.
Q:two plumbers been boiler working.They don,t know what is wrong. I have drained rads one by one but still no joy.
Sounds like they need the air bleeding out If you have a key that fits onto that small square at the top, start at the furthest rad from the boiler and move in. Hold a jug or similar beneath the square, open slowly and let the water run into the jug until it runs without spitting. (air coming out) Keep a bit of rag handy to mop up any spillage and Bob's yer uncle
Q:The boiler pressure is lost from 1 bar to zero in approx 3 hours with system off. joints have been checked but no visible leaks. What could cause this, could a small seepage of water that does not produce a wet area cause this amount of water/pressure loss?
The loss in pressure could be only 2 things if as you say it happens without the heating on. 1 - pressure relief valve is letting by, you can usually find this going through the wall behind the boiler,under the flue, you will need to go outside to look and see if it is dripping. easy fix, just replace. 2 - system leak, i suspect some of your radiator pipework goes under the floor, if you have floorboards downstairs, you will never see a water stain. you can try leak sealant but this leak sounds to big to be cured in this way. it is quite difficult and expensive to trace this type of leak. the only option left if leak seal dosn't do it is to take up the floor. one test u can do to tell if u have a system leak is to re-pressurise than close the flow and return under the boiler, if the gauge shows no drop the leak is in your pipwork and you will have to re-check.
Q:I am whatever is less than a rookie at this. I have a hot water boiler that heats my house. I also have a small hot water unit heater in my garage that I just replaced that is supplied hot water by the boiler. The original unit heater in my garage cracked in freezing temperatures. I do not need the garage heated all of the time but I do not want the new heater to have issues with freezing water. I don't know if this is possible, but I was wondering if I could use an aquastat or aquastat relay to safe guard myself from having these pipes freeze? Ideally I would use a thermostat to control heat when I want to have the garage warm enough to work in during the winter. When I don't need the garage heated, I would turn the thermostat way down and use an aquastat to control water temperature going out to the garage to keep the pipes from freezing. Is this possible? What components would I need? Any help in how this would be wired would be appreciated also. Thanks
The short answer is that your boiler can be wired to do whatever you want it to do. My recommendation is to hire a professional that is familiar with wiring your type of boiler. There are so many variables that aren't included in this question. Is it a gas, oil or electric boiler? Are you using just circulators or zone valves also? Are you using a zone control such as a Taco SR506 control? What model aquastat? Is it a cold start control or low/high limit aquastat? What kind of thermostat? Have you considered smart controls that utilize an outdoor sensor, such as the Logomatic controls on a Buderus boiler? How many zones do you have? With all these unknowns, there is over 100 ways to wire a boiler. Good luck! TomTheTechnician
Q:Im making a steam boiler for my steam engine and need to know how to make a safety valve for it.
A spring loaded ball value would work but you don't need to make it that complicated, at least on a stationary engine. All you need is a short vertical tube from the boiler, and a metal cap with a blind hole drilled in it so it fits loosely over the pipe and seals it with its weight. You can set the pressure from the area of the hole in the pipe and the weight of the cap. That's the way the valves on pressure cookers work. They usually have 2 or 3 caps with different weights for different maximum pressures. Put a rubber plug in the bottom of th hole in the cap, so it seals against the top of the pipe (which obviously needs to be cut square and polished smooth). The cap needs to be a LOOSE fit over the end of the pipe so it can't jam shut through thermal expansion etc, but if the center of gravity of the cap is below the top of the pipe it will sit in a stable position and seal properly. As the other answer said, you have to be careful with safety valves, because the boiling point of water is higher under pressure, so when the valve opens there can be a rush of steam generated. The other issue is that when the valve opens you obviously get steam released without any warning, so you may need a steam deflector (e.g a larger diameter tube surrounding the complete safety valve) so the steam can't blow out sideways and be a safety hazard to people.
Q:So I had the heating on this morning and all of a sudden I hear a pop noise and my boiler started making this hissing sound. Sounds like someone has turned a tap on full. So I switched it off and the noise just continued. I can also hear the sound in the radiators as well. Council won't come and fix it till Monday afternoon. I'm just wondering what could be the reason for the noise? It's had me worried/irritated all day. I live in a flat so turning off the water etc not an option.
Presuming this is a hot water boiler: The boiler pressure relief valve is popping off. Pressure has reached the point where the valve opens automatically to protect the boiler from damage do to excess pressure. It is often an indication of a problem with some other boiler component. It should be addressed soon by the landlord, as the popoff is kind of the last like of defense and could result in an expensive repair. When the valve releases, it emits hot water and steam, so stay clear of the boiler. Leave this to the landlord and the professionals he/she hires.
Q:My basement is aprox. 1000sqft and has pex tubing in the floors and I want to hook up heat to it. I also have a 12 year old water heater that I would like to get rid of, and replace it with a Wall-Hung Condensing Combination Boiler. I also need to know how to properly size the unit. It is only my wife, son and myself in the house but I want to do it right. I can't seem to find a brand that is that I can get parts for locally any suggestions?? The ones that I have found range in price from $2700 to $4000
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