TOP QUALITY GALZED TILE FROM FOSHAN CMAX 6680
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1325 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 10000000 m²/month
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Key Specifications/Special Features of Glazed Tile :
1. Material: glazed porcelain
2. Antique feel, Metal Image
3. Low water absorption
4. Strong in hardness
5. Coordination in color and luster
6. Usage Area: home, office, hotel, government and corporate projects, flooring tiles, deluxe clubs flooring
7. Style: simple, classic, elegant and splendid in color
8. Good in abrasion and chemical corrosion-resistant
9. Resistance to thermal shock
10. Available in various sizes and colors
Primary Competitive Advantages of Glazed Tile:
1. All product of rustic ceramic tiles are of top grade AAAA
2. CE certificate, ISO9001:2008 and ISO14001:2004
3. OEM accepted.
4. Speial dimensions available according to your floor tiles request.
5. Best Quality with best price, strictly quality control.
6. On time delivery, in general 7-10days.
7. Best after sale service, customer can follow their porcelain tiles order situation any time. no matter on product line, warehouse or shipment.
Main Export Markets:
1. Asia
2. Australasia
3. Central/South America
4. Eastern Europe
5. Mid East/Africa
6. North America
7. Western Europe
Specification:
Tile type: | Ceramic tile |
Material: | Porcelain |
Size(MM) : | 600x600mm |
Thickness(MM): | 9mm |
Water Absorption: | ≤0.5% |
Color: | Available in all designs and colors |
Usage: | Used in floor |
Surface treatment: | Glazed surface |
Features: | Professional triple-burning in oven, which makes our tiles more excellent quality. |
Function: | Acid-Resistant, Antibacterial, Heat Insulation, Non-Slip, Wear-Resistant, Anti-fouling easy to clean |
Packaging: | 600x600mm: 4pcs/box,28kg/box,standard cartons and wooden pallets packing |
Remark: | All kind of designs can be produced according to your requirements |
Quality | |
Surface quality: | 95% tiles no defect from 0.8 away uprightly |
Breaking strength: | As require |
Resistance to thermal shock: | Without crack and flaw after 10 times anti heat shock test |
Brightness: | ≥55 |
Frost-resistance: | No crack or spalling after frost resistance test |
Product Picture:
Packing Pictures
- Q: Dear Sir/Madami have question regarding installing tiles 30*30cm*2.5cm thick for hall and rooms my question is whats the min. and Max. cement mortar must be placed under neath tiles (i.e bond coat in between concrete slab and tile )please advice and thank for help and appreciated
- If you're using ceramic tiles (very regular size and relatively smooth/even back), use a 1/4 square notched trowel, held somewhere between 45 and 90 degrees (vertical). If you're using natural stone tiles (e.g. granite, marble, slate), go for 3/8 square notched trowel and back-butter the tiles. Make sure the concrete slab is clean, sound, free of cracks and level before you start and follow the instructions for your thinset. You'll likely want to use a modified thinset which will help bond to the concrete better. If you have any doubts about the stability of your slab, consider installing an isolation membrane between the tile and slab. Schluter's Ditra system is the best of the breed for this. If you use an isolation membrane, use unmodified thinset (instead of modified).
- Q: If you were going to tile an entire room would you start from the walls or floor? The room is only small 12m walls 4m floor is a basic toilet basin. There are no border tiles no fllor to wall tiles.
- not a pro but i thought you were suppose to start in the middle of the room. chalk line the center of the room and lay tile from there but i quess it would all depend on measuring to see how much of a tile size you would be working once you got to the wall. probably make an adjustment from center line so that tile size on both walls would be same size. i would do a practice layout of a few tiles to see how things look before formal tiling./// i'll check back to see what the pros have to say.
- Q: My granddaughter dropped a hard toy while being held by her Mom. It put a quarter size hole in the center of my ceramic tile. How can I go about filling this hole?
- Porcelain Tile Repair Kit
- Q: Bathroom Tiling Job?
- Ceramic tile or vinyl tile? Ceramic tile you need a total substrate of no lees than 1 1/4. This means you need to add a minimum or 1/2 to make it sturdy enough for tile . And the very best ting to use ( for the average DIY) is 1/2 cement board. And this needs to be properly installed. This will comply to ATC and TCA tile codes.. If your using a vinyl tile you possible can go over it all w/o underlayment but I strongly suggest a 1/4 wood underlayment such as luan. This gives you a clean surface to bond to. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
- Q: What is the best way to paint over brown wall tiles
- After thousands of sq. ft. of tile, and thousands of gallons of paint, (not together) and with all due respect to you and others; this is kind of like a CAN I? question. Tile is essentially glass. Certainly you CAN probably paint over, but may never truly be satisfied with the result, especially over any long term. Also with no offense at all, and not needling you over a misspelling, I had to chuckle at Pinting. I've probably done a lot of that too, and in fact probably while on or over tiles. Steven Wolf
- Q: tile itself
- How to remove a tile? First of all, get a good old chisel and hammer. You have to break the tiles and remove the plaster. Just be careful you do not over do it or you will end up damaging the wall totally. Safety is also a concern. When you chisel or break these tiles, sharp pieces of it becomes a dangerous projectile scattering all over. Always wear protective gear, like glasses, gloves and a mask if you are allergic to dust. Off course if there is a drain nearby, cover it to prevent dust or tile particles from entering the drain.
- Q: just had a tile floor laid and i noticed some were higher than the one next to it in about 6 tiles. my husband says every house will have those. does yours?
- No, my tile guys spent half the day leveling the concrete before laying the tiles. They sanded down the high spots and used filler in the low spots. My floor was perfectly level before they ever layed the first tile. They would slide a 8' straight edge over the floor many times look for discrepancies.
- Q: I‘m remodeling my kitchen and there is ugly floor to ceiling wall tile. My contractor says can‘t put up drywall without reframing (which would be expensive). So does anyone have suggestion on what to do with this wall?
- If the tiles are on a villa board just rip it off the studs and take out any nails or screws so the drywall can just be fixed straight onto the studs. First you have to knock one of the tiles off, since that walls is being redone this won't upset the apple cart. Just be care when taking off the tile, because I was doing the same things years ago and I hit a tile with a hammer and it shattered sending bits of razor sharp tile fly one cutting my arm, wear eye protection and put something like a towel over the tile so it won't fly everywhere. Once you've knock off a tile if there's board behind it you're in luck, just continue doing as you got the first tile off and clear the studs of anything that will get in the way of the sheetrock. If not you'll need to batten the wall out to take the sheetrock as your contractor said Well depending on what you intend to do with the wall, will you re-tile? If you intend to re-tile just use a chisel and carefully knock them off the wall taking as much of the tile mortar off as you can, it doesn't matter if there's a little unevenness, but you can't have high spots all over the wall, because if you re-tile the high spot will cause the tile to ride on ithe high spots making it hard to tile, if it's just a little the tile compound/mortar will even out around it during tiling. I'd take anything higher than 1/8 off using a Scutch Hammer. ...
- Q: This tile in my kitchen became loose a while ago and today I decided to try to fix it but not sure what to do. As you can see from the image link, a fair amount of concrete has come off with the tile. I suppose I can‘t re-use this tile. I have a spare one available. What I need to know is what product do I use to fill in the hole? Should I try to get out all the old concrete stuff first?
- use okorder
- Q: I am tiling my bathroom and in the process of re-tiling the shower stall. I removed the old plastic liner there and now some of the glue remains on the greenboard. Also, some of the green part of the board is ripped of from when the glue came off with the old liner. Some of the paper is flakey in spots. I pulled off some of the loose pieces, but there is more. Now, I‘m an amateur. I was told to use some grout sealer to go over the greenboard. However, since there are flakey pieces of paper from the greenboard on there still, should I simply remove as much as I can before sealing and tiling? Will the seal glue these flakey pieces down and make them secure for tiling? What is your advice? Many thanks!
- I have to agree with answer 1. I tile every day of my life, and while greenboard certainly should be used for the balance of a bathroom, I stopped using it around tubs and showers, years ago. Concrete backer board is an industry standard, is not more difficult to install, and actually aids in tile/mortar adhesion properties. While you have the walls gutted, you might add a vapor barrier as well. The issue with patching over the damage is that it may become just as degraded as the original substrate, and I suspect cause you to be unhappy. Steven Wolf Just my two sense
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TOP QUALITY GALZED TILE FROM FOSHAN CMAX 6680
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1325 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 10000000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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