• Stainless Steel Zero Leak Pump Zero Leak Pump System 1
  • Stainless Steel Zero Leak Pump Zero Leak Pump System 2
  • Stainless Steel Zero Leak Pump Zero Leak Pump System 3
  • Stainless Steel Zero Leak Pump Zero Leak Pump System 4
  • Stainless Steel Zero Leak Pump Zero Leak Pump System 5
  • Stainless Steel Zero Leak Pump Zero Leak Pump System 6
Stainless Steel Zero Leak Pump Zero Leak Pump

Stainless Steel Zero Leak Pump Zero Leak Pump

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get latest price
Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Specification

Name:
Stainless steelzero leak pumpzero leak pump
Power:
Electric
Standard or Nonstandard:
Standard
Material:
Stainless

Company Introduction

My company has more than 40 years history, is the China general machinery pump industry association member units.

The company has organized product research and development team, experienced high, intermediate technical staff.Complete production and processing, inspection, testing (pump performance test platform), and other equipment, to ensure that product quality is stable and reliable.Over the department, provincial, municipal and industry product quality supervision and inspection (smoke), only one is qualified to go through.Timely quality perfect after-sales service in place, favored by the majority of new and old customers rely on and praise.

The company has successfully passed the national industrial products production license, ISO9001 quality system review replacement work.Relevant product standards (enterprise), metrology, standardization management system, etc., have been acceptance by the superior department in charge of the inspection.Related to product development, production management, sales and after-sales service, are performed according to the system management standard.

 

 

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Product specification

 

Medium temperature: -40°C----+500°C

Flow Q=2~8000m3/h,Head:3-240(m)

Working pressure:up to 50bar

Rotation speed n=1450~3600 r/min,50Hz/60Hz

Pump’s rotation direction: clockwise when viewed from the motor to the pump.


Features
1. Hydraulic design with wide flow-path non-clogged structure ,allowed fibres(3 times
length of inlet diameter),particles(30% size of inlet diameter )
2. Excellent design,high efficiency and energy saving .
3. Double mechnical seals in series,made of hard alloy corrosive proof silicon
carbide,which is durable and .wearable ,that enable pump safely operation for more
than 8000 hours continous.
4. Compact structure, small volume, easy moved and conveniently mounted , no need build
pump house, greatly reduct the cost.

 

pump superiority

High efficiency

Reasonable design

Reliable operation

Long in service time

Easy maintenance

Low running cost

 

 Pictures show

 

Stainless Steel Zero Leak Pump Zero Leak Pump

 

Stainless Steel Zero Leak Pump Zero Leak Pump

 

 

 

 

Stainless Steel Zero Leak Pump Zero Leak Pump

 

 

Stainless Steel Zero Leak Pump Zero Leak Pump

 

 Transportation

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Q: i need help on how to replace a water pump oil seal in a 2001 rm80...i looked everywhere...if you can get a video or detailed info that be great, thanks
Drain coolant - #13 drain bolt Remove hose from water pump cover Remove water pump cover - #12 Drain oil Remove R side cover - #1 Remove circlip - #23 Remove water pump shaft - #19 Pull out water pump seal - #20 Note the direction the seal is installed Tap in new seal This entire procedure is explained in detail in your service manual.
Q: From the days of the laying of pipe line and trouble is far away, two or more people share the idea of a water pump, controlled by the electromagnetic valve, do not know whether it is feasible, attention should be paid to each of the power may be different phase, and it is the automatic control, automatic switching request all big brother big sister what the solution of power. At the same time, the electromagnetic valve is closed to others. Turn on your own solenoid valve StopThe idea is that each pumping with its own power, so you don't have to worry about sharing electricity.
The electromagnetic valve is estimated to be expensive to death ~!You set up a high water tank in the middle of the user. The pump is pumped to the water tankIn each according to the water meter, then according to water allocation total cost ~ ~ ~!
Q: Water is pumped out of a holding tank at a rate of 6-6e^(-.09t) liters/minute, where t is in minutes since the pump is started. If the holding tank contains 1000 liters of water when the pump is started, how much water does it hold one hour later??Round your answer to one decimal place.
Let V(t) be the volume of water (in Liters) in the tank after t minutes. We are given that V(0) = 1000, and we wish to find V(60). We are also given the rate of change of the volume: V'(t) = -[6 - 6e^(-0.09t)]. Note that a negative sign needs to be placed because the rate represents water leaving the tank, i.e., being pumped out of the tank. By the Fundamental Theorem of Calculus, Integral (0 to 60) V'(t) dt = V(60) - V(0), so that V(60) = V(0) + Integral (0 to 60) V'(t) dt V(60) = V(0) + Integral (0 to 60) -[6 - 6e^(-0.09t)] dt V(60) = V(0) + Integral (0 to 60) [-6 + 6e^(-0.09t)] dt V(60) = V(0) + [-6t + (6/-0.09)e^(-0.09t)] (Evaluated at t = 60 - Evaluated at t = 0] V(60) = V(0) + [-6(60) + (6/-0.09)e^(-0.09(60))] - [-6(0) + (6/-0.09)e^(-0.09(0))] V(60) = 1000 + [-360 - (200/3)e^(-5.4)] - [0 - (200/3)] V(60) = 1000 - 360 + 200/3[1 - e^(-5.4)] V(60) = 640 + 200/3[1 - e^(-5.4)] V(60) = approx. 706.4 Therefore, approximately 706.4 L of water occupy the holding tank 1 hour after the pump is started.
Q: I have replaced the presure switch on my water pump but it switches on and off when it is building up presure instead on staying on until it gets to right presure.Any ideas of what is causing this?
This can get sticky, so pay attention and keep up. Every well system has to have a pump and a resevoir tank. The older style tanks used the air that gets trapped in the top of the tank and compressed, to push the water back out when you opened a tap. However, over time water and air will mix together a little at a time until there's very little or no air left at the top to compress, and we all know that you can't compress water, so when that happens, the pump starts up, the pressure switch realizes that the pressure is instantly at the shutoff point and shuts back down, sometimes over and over in an almost self perpetuating cycle, until you shut the power off. With the advent of the new bladder tanks, where the rubber bladder installed in the center of the tank keeps the air on top at a certain pressure and the water coming in the bottom away from mixing with the air, these problems pretty much go away, until the bladder breaks and allows water to flow up into the top area. Then you have a very expensive old style resevoir tank, with the same old waterlogged problems. If you have either of these types of systems then you can remedy the situation for a short time at least, by completely draining the tank with the pump off and then shut all the valves above and refill the tank, allowing the water to pressurize the air. If you have the bladder tank and it's acting that way, then you may want to replace it, or just use it as is. You can always pressurize it from the top and drain it by putting enough air in it to blow all the water out and then start over.
Q: How does a pump get water from a low low elevation to a higher elevation.
The simplest form of water pump is a plastic spiral where the outermost spiral dips under the water and out as it rotates. The spiral can be driven by attached paddles if the water is flowing. As the water progresses down smaller spirals the pressure increases. The water exits through a rotating coupling at the centre of the spiral. A single stage pump can only raise water 15 feet (1 atmosphere) A windmill is a good example of a simple pump where a lever moves up and down, A valve closes at the bottom of a tube on the up stroke and raises the water by the length of the stroke. This water opens a second valve near the top of the tube as soon as the upstroke starts and the water is pushed up. This pump does not work by creating a vacuum. On the downstroke the upper valve closes due to the raised water pushing on it, and also due to its own weight, and the lower valve opens from the water below pushing on it as the cylinder descends. At the end of the downstroke the valve closes under its own weight and the weight of the water above it and the cycle repeats To raise water higher than 15 feet using a windmill, it is necessary to install a small tank at, say 14 feet, with a second lower and upper valve in a tube. The first stage pump fills the tank which the second stage pump then lifts another 15 feet, This process can be repeated until the water reaches the surface, but a bigger windmill will be needed to power multiple pumps
Q: What does the lift of a pump mean?
Lift lift height = water raise height = total lift lift height + water = water is expressed in M by H (m)
Q: How hard is putting in a water pump for my 5-series on a 1-10 scale ?and how do i put it in ? details please !? i dont have a chitlon for it . ive worked a lot on this car and i do know some things about it, but not very car savy. Thank you !!
What is easy for you may be hard for others, so I would not give the job any hardship rating. But the approximate job entails doing these...descriptions from viewpoint of person standing infront and looking towards the engine... a) remove fan blade with fan clutch by turning big nut clockwise (reverse thread) b) remove fan belt, then remove pulley attached to water pump c) remove radiator fan shroud if you can to have more space to work in d) put basin underneath engine to catch coolant and detach radiator hose connected to water pump e) remove 6 bolts holding water pump and remove pump f) clean surface of engine block to remove left over sealant/gasket g) install new pump and other removed parts in reverse order h) add coolant, bleed (using bleeder screws in thermostat housing and upper radiator hose), then top-off coolant to proper level marked on expansion tank near windshield. i) ran engine or roadtest, then recheck coolant level after overnight stay or when engine cools down.
Q: How many pumps does a 50 meter water head use?
Well pump head selection for pump + water depth height (water pressure) + head loss, head loss of water system is not complicated with 3-5 meters can, refers to the depth of pump well pump down into the well depth, generally shallow wells is down to the bottom, is based on deep well pumping well test data to determine the position of the pump.
Q: I'm looking to build a fountain to dispense Wine. For which, I'll need a pump. I'm thinking submersible aquarium pump. I'm concerned about after tastes, and general safety of this venture. Can you drink water that's been run through an aquarium pump?Would alcohol be any different?Is there a better choice? What would it be?
It wouldn't be a good idea to use a water feature pump or aquarium pump due to the lubrication on the Impeller which can contaminate the wine and make it taste weird. Ofc, if you're going to use enough wine then a small water feature pump will work without changing the taste, either way it is safe enough to drink. Your best bet though would be (something like) a chocolate fountain, but without the heater. Edit: as strange as this may sound, another idea is to use an air pump with an air stone inside a peice of tubing. This is commonly known as a sponge filter, where the uplift from the air rising pushes the liquid up.
Q: I have a bad water pump on my golf gti.Engine is 2.0L. I just would like to know how hard is it to do it myself. And also is there some special tools that I need.How much time usually takes to get this done? Thank you
the water pump is external to the engine, no need to touch timing belt unless your changing it, tools needed- 13mm wrench-22mm wrench - 1/4 drive ratchet-10mm 1/4 drive socket- 3/8 drive ratchet- 12mm 3/8 drive Socket-13mm 3/8 drive socket-19mm 3/8 drive socket-16mm 3/8 drive socket 3/8 drive Extension-pliers- flat blade screw driver- 6mm 3/8 drive allen socket--- remove drive belt's- remove p/s pump, a/c compressor( do not disconnect either they will move out of the way)- remove alternator(disconnect battery first)- remove the bracket assembly( four 13mm nuts three hidden in the holes) there is the water pump(two 19mm tall bolts with studs hold it down, 10mm T bolt passes through the timing cover)

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