• solid copper conductor PVC electrical cables wire System 1
  • solid copper conductor PVC electrical cables wire System 2
solid copper conductor PVC electrical cables wire

solid copper conductor PVC electrical cables wire

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Quick Details

  • Place of Origin: Henan, China (Mainland)


  • Type:
    InsulatedModel Number:
    BV,BVVB

  • Application: Indoors

  • Conductor Material: Copper

  • Conductor Type: Solid

  • Insulation Material: PVC

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:roll
Delivery Detail:4 weeks or as your request

Specifications

cables wire
1.450/750V solid copper core
2.PVC insulated
3.ISO CCC IEC standard
4.factory direct sales

Solid Copper conductor PVC electrical  cables wire  

1.Application:

This  electrical wire is suitable for fixed laying in power plant with AC rated voltage up to and including 450/750V.

2.Specification:

1). The rated voltage of the  electrical wire should equal to or higher then the rated voltage of the system when wires are used at AC system. If the wires are used at DC system, the rated voltage of system should lower then 1.5 times as high as rated voltage of cable and wires. The working voltage of the system could be 1.1 times as high as the rated voltage of the cable.

2). The long term working temperature should lower then 70oC. The working temperature of BV-90 should lower then 90oC. And the laying temperature should higher then 0oC.
3). The curve diameter of the wire should longer than 8 times of the diameter of the outer diameter of cable and wires if their outer diameter is 25 mm or above. If the diameter of cable and wires is above 25 mm, the curve diameter should be at least 12 times of the outer diameter of the cable and wires.


Q: I have an antique light fixture that has wiring with a fabric cover. About how old is this? I was thinking 1920s.
Sounds like a varnished cambric cloth over vulcanized rubber. Difficult to date it without much time consuming research. Heat resistant properties made/make it attractive. Cambric electrical tape is still being produced for special applications. Before I retired, seen a small section of non-working underground lead covered, cambric insulated cable in a Chestnut wood trough or conduit. Learning that the wood was in fact American Chestnut put it back a ways in time. Varnish impregnated cambric cloth has been around for awhile in the electrical industry.
Q: even if the damaged area isn't touching anything?
What kind of damage? Exactly what is damaged? How is it damaged? Pictures might help. It's hard to make suggestions with the information provided.
Q: Adding an a/c to upstairs of home, need to run power cable to main power panel. What size wire shoud l use?
Probably 10-gauge. Check the electrical rating plate on the unit; it will probably say something on the order of 25 amps at 240 volts. As long as it draws less than 30 amps, 10-gauge is fine (with a dual 30-amp breaker); if it takes more, use 8-gauge with a 40 amp dual breaker. If it draws less than 20 amps (not likely, but possible), you can get by with 12-gauge wire and 20 amp breakers.
Q: I remember dialing a short 3 digit number to fix a pothole in my neighborhood (although I can't remember the number). I was wondering if there was another one I can call that could fix this buzzing' noise caused by an electrical wire by my house that's quite annoying and a bit skeptical whether I should be alarmed by it or not. Appreciate it. :)
In most cities it's 311. I believe it is in Los Angeles as well. However, the electrical lines are probably owned by your power company and my guess is that you'll have to contact them with any concerns you have or to get them fixed.
Q: I have a 1981 Ford f-100 I recently went to start it up and the wires that attach to my sylenoidgo too hot and fried. I know that the wires on the back of the sylenoid go to the starter, but where does the wire that attaches to the front go?
battery!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Q: I am hooking up a 30 amp rv outlet to connect my trailer to for electric service. I have to use a 10/3 with ground wire. I have black, red, white and bare. I use the white for common, the blacke for hot. The question I have is, of the red and bare wire which one goes to the ground connection on the outlet and which one goes to ground in the outlet box and service panel. I have no problem getting it to be safe, I just do not know which one is used for ground at the plug when there are four wires and one is red, not green. Thanks
Joe and Marv are both right. It sounds to me like you have removed a 220 V USA outlet for a stove or clothes drier and tried to replace it with a regular 110 V Outlet. In the USA Red Hot and Black is also hot but from the opposite side of the transformer. White Neutral and ground is of course ground. Voltage from white to red 110. Voltage from black to red 110 (each has it's own breaker and they are tied together at the handles). However!!!!! Red to Black 220 V It could also be a 220 V outlet for a window air conditioner. These look the same as a 110 V outlet except the power pins are orientated horizontally like this _ ° _ ------ Outlets and basic wiring is the same in USA Canada. I think it's the same throughout North South America. ------ Plain simple fact is, for a basic 110 outlet you should not have that extra red wire nor should you have a double breaker. Most outlets are double and may have metal tabs (not plastic) joining them. IF on the old outlet they were cut (seperated) and the red circuit connected to one and the other connected to black, then you would have a potentially very dangerous situation that would NOT meet codes but may not show up during an inspection. You could have 220 volts between an item plugged into one outlet and an item plugged into the other.
Q: i was working on this car and somehow crossed these wires and it starting smoking really bad under the dashwell the lady had her dog in the car .to say the least the doors locked and flames were rolling by the kick panelwe couldnt get the dog out in time.is there a way to get my license back.i really like to work on cars
YOU my friend, are the unluckiest guy I have ever heard of! In 25 years of working on cars, I have NEVER heard of anyone losing their ASE certification. My guess is you won't get it back, because they must have found you seriously negligent to take such a severe step against you. If you feel you have been unjustly punished, contact an attorney. You may have grounds for legal action. the initial appointment is usually free, and sometimes you pay nothing unless your attorney wins. Good luck to you. That is an awful thing to happen to a professional mechanic.
Q: That is now the new house has that position in the living room sofa wall mosaic of a small iron box, about 40 × 25 cm, which there are many wires called the box? Know friends say ~ thank you! More
laying in the metal trunking is only the cable itself (not through the tube)
Q: I took an electrical toy apart, and I don't know how to dispose of the electrical wiring that was inside it. Please advise.
Strip it and sell it for copper. If not, then scrap it at a recycling center and still get paid. Typical prices today are 0.50 - 0.75 for mixed scrap wire per pound, and $ 2- $ 2.5 for clean copper wire per pound. Good luck.
Q: I have a spot in a room where there used to be track lighting. I'm going to be moving the electrical to the center of the room for a fan. Can I just used wing nuts and add to the existing wiring - will that be ok hidden behind the ceiling sheetrock? I need to add about 8 feet of wire to the center of the room from the current spot.
In addition to that, make sure the types of wiring are the same. You run into problems (often) when trying to connect old (knob tube) wiring to modern stuff like Romex. And as for safety, if you're not sure the current is off to that fixture, just shut off all the power (I'm in an old house, so our panel is like reading Egyptian hieroglyphics!). Also, get one of those voltage detector thingies that tells if there's a current present. don't take chances! They only cost about $18.00.

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