• Sewage Pumps High Efficiency Non-block WQ (QW)Series System 1
Sewage Pumps High Efficiency Non-block WQ (QW)Series

Sewage Pumps High Efficiency Non-block WQ (QW)Series

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Description:

QW type submersible nonclog sewage pump is made up of motor and pump, they are separated through oil isolation room and mechanical seal, it is short in length that motor and pump share the same axle (rotor), the structure is compact. Equipped with many kinds of protectors, it is running reliably, the function of its main parts are as follows:
 1. signal line: equipped with control box, protecting the pump fully, including leakage, phase reversal, short circuit, overheated, overload, etc
2. motor stator: its insulation is B grade or F grade.
3.water leakage probe. This component is installed in the oil room, if the mechanical seal was damaged, and water enters into the oil room, it will send out the signal to the control system so as to protect the pump.
4.Mechanical seal: Adopting in-series seal, the material is the wear-resisting carbonization tungsten, featuring being reliable, wear resisting, longer life, etc.
5.Impeller: have better handling capacity, can reduce the trouble of jamming and twisting of big fiber rubbish, etc.
6.Pump body: harmonize with impeller, ensure the pump has high efficiency.
7. seal rings: Installed at the mouth place of pump body, make mouth surround as impeller office wear and tear, can change the sealed ring because of operating, so as to ensure the pump runs with the best efficiency.

Condition:

Flow Rate Range: 8-2600m3/h
Head Range: 7-60m
Operation Temperature: -15℃-60℃
Matched Power: 0.75-280KW
Working Pressure: ≤1.6MPa
Flow-through Material: Cast Iron, Stainless Steel

Q: The water is being put in because it was overheating. We changed the thermostat and everything and it got better, but about a month later it started overheating again and now it is leaking water bad from underneath the car. Whatever is leaking is covered by a shield thing. Im not sure what it is, and I dont want to replace it before I know if thats really what it is. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
If the leak is on the passenger side of the car (near the tire) then it is most likely your water pump. It is driven by the serpentine belt that drives most of the visible components on the passenger side of the engine. (power steering, A/C, Alternator etc) To check it, you need to look UNDER the water pump, it has a weep hole. If this small (1/8) hole is wet, or shows signs of having been leaking (like discoloration or rust) then your waterpump seals or bearings are going. The unit must be replaced. This should also fix your over heating problems. If the leak is near the back-center of the engine, then it may be a frost plug (also called a freeze plug) these are designed to pop if the enging coolant freezes to prevent damage to the engine block, they can also be opened if the engine over heats. Be careful when replacing this plug, if you drive it INTO the engine, you will have to dismantle the engine to get it out again. On the plus side, you can get rubber plugs that are easy to install and quite inexpensive. I'd place the water pump as the most likely problem.
Q: Had my car in to the shop this morning, it's a 2000 Ford Escort ZX2. The water pump and radiator need to be replaced, and they said they can do it for $380. Is this a reasonable price? Also, if I don't get them fixed right away, am I risking a lot of permanent damage to the engine?
Good chance you have a leaking head gasket. Try this, with the engine cold, remove the radiator cap, start the engine and let the car idle until it heats up. Look into the radiator, can you see large bubbles (like blowing slowly through a straw into a glass of water) or a foamy looking coolant in the radiator opening? You also need to see if there is oil in the radiator. Is the cooling system loosing coolant with no apparent external leaks? Does the car loose coolant , but never leave a puddle on the ground? A leaking head gasket is common on engine with aluminum heads and iron blocks, especially if the engine has been previously overheated. Some shops have a chemical test for combustion gasses in the radiator. It is also possible to use a system pressure test, where the entire system is pumped up to 15-20 PSI and then allowed to sit and see if the pressure drops. A quick drop in pressure indicates a leak. A pressure test can allow you to see where a leak originates, since the car is sitting and a leak will be very apparent.
Q: I have replaced the presure switch on my water pump but it switches on and off when it is building up presure instead on staying on until it gets to right presure.Any ideas of what is causing this?
your tank is waterlogged turn the power off to the pump and drain the tank of water completely and turn the pump back on this should do the trick Ive had it happen to me and it worked
Q: s10 blazer with 130k original miles.. is leaking water but not from the water pump... just replaced it and still leaking from the same area... where are the freeze plugs located? where else could it be leaking from? it lools like its coming from harmonic balancer or close by!!
look at the housing that the water pump bolts to ,it may be busted and there's some of the bolts that go all the way through in to the block if those wasn't coated with sealant it will still leak from the bolts that hold the water pump on,and that will make it appear to be leaking from the front cover,you got two freeze plugs in the front and three down each side,good luck with it,
Q: The single-phase water pump in the house is out of order. After opening the power supply, the motor can not start by itself. It is necessary to turn the shaft clockwise by hand. Then, what is the problem? How can I solve it? Thank you
Is your starting capacitor pump is broken. Because you pump it is a single asynchronous motor..... Single-phase asynchronous motor by capacitive phase shifting function, the single-phase alternating current isolated from another 90 degree phase alternating current. The two alternating current into two groups or four groups of motor winding, forming a rotating magnetic field inside the motor rotating magnetic field induced current in the rotor, the induced current magnetic field and rotating magnetic field in the opposite direction, by rotating magnetic field push pull into the rotating state, because the rotor must be cutting magnetic lines to produce induction current, so the rotor speed must be lower than the rotating magnetic induction motor speed, so thatSo if the starting capacitor is broken, then your pump will start difficult,
Q: I'm not familiar w/ this model but need to swap out the water pump. I have no pictures or publications. Anything in particular to watch out for? Is this a pushrod engine w/ a water pump mounted in the front center of the engine and driven by a serpentine belt? Thanks in advance.
It's very easy to change. It's driven by a serpantine belt but it's off center Right up front closer to the radiator and on top. Break the 13mm pulley bolt's loose, remove the belt, remove loosened pulley bolts and pulley. Then there's like 6, 8mm bolts to remove the pump and that's it. You might have to remove the overflow tank to make it easier to get to. The pump is round and looks like it will go on any 'ol way but it doesn't. It only goes on one way.
Q: Hi I really need a USB water pump (small). I have found one in China but they need payment in a different currency so its proving difficult. I would much prefer a US/EUROPE seller. Cheers.PSgt; If I had to pay to get the power supply changed from wire to USB then I could if anyone knows who could do this.
The USB output has a 5V power supply. USB2 delivers up to 500mA and later versions may be 900mA. USB hubs start off with less than this (100mA) but change as they are initialised. Some dedicated USB charging ports supply up to 1.8A. There are some USB power cables that take the output from 2 ports in a sort of Y harness (first link for example). The result of all this is that only a very small pump would run from most USB ports. I did find 2 rated at 5W and 8W but the voltage was not shown. I suspect they were mains operation, meant for large water bottles. If they were 5V they would use 1A and 1.6A respectively, so only run from special USB charge points or double cables, and only in some cases anyway. I assume you want to run from a Laptop/Notebook battery for convenience. The point is that even if the USB port can supply the correct voltage and current the battery would be emptied very quickly. It is probably cheaper to get a suitable pump, then power it from a separate and more suitable rechargeable battery or mains adaptor (wall wart), whatever it takes, taking into account how long it should run with a single charge. This is about the battery voltage and the capacity in ampere hours - the number of hours it can supply a given current. D size rechargeable (Ni-MH) would run a 6V x 6W motor using 1A for about 6 hours. C size cells are half that, and AA cells about half again. It takes 4 cells to get 5V. Get them as a pack though or at least with a battery holder, as they cannot be soldered. Then you need a proper charger. Recent laptop/notebook batteries are lithium ion types, 10.8V and 4.8Ah, so deliver 1A @10.8V for 4h more or less. Other types worth considering are for cordless drills.
Q: I have a 2002 honda civic with 85k miles the dealer says the timing belt should be replaced. But with the water pump timing belt tensioner also have to be replaced???
I agree with the dealer.It may sound like he is trying to jack up the job but in fact it will save you money and grief in the long run. Getting to those parts is so labor intensive that if you have to go back in later to change the pump or tensioner pulleys it will cost you the same as it did to have the belt changed. The other thing if the pump starts leaking on a new belt you will have to have it replaced again. Whenever I do a timing belt I change everything that is in there. Then I don't have to worry about it.
Q: 2000 Jetta GLX VR6Problems:- AC is no longer working- The Reader said quot;STOP!quot;CHECK COOLANTI pulled over and checked the Coolant and it was full- The Car will overheat to about 260 whenever I am sitting with the Engine Running- When I start the car its on Zero Degrees and then Slowly makes it way to 190 degrees which is in the middle quot;Normalquot;- Oil Seems to be fine---- What does this sound like to you??--- Also, The VW Dealer said I needed to be without my Car for Two days so I will drop it off Friday Night and leave it until Wednesday. Do you think it will last until Friday driving 60miles a day??-- If it is the Water Pump... How much do you *think* I am looking at paying? I am taking it to the VW Dealer b/c I have a Recall they need to fix too.
Your okorder /... Aside from the thermostat, it could be the coolant temperature sensor. I don't know how mechanically inclined you are, but a quick check to see if it is the thermostat... Let the car get to operating temperature, pop the hood and squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses. if the top one is hot and the lower is not; its your thermostat. As far as your AC goes, did it suddenly start blowing hot air? Do you hear squealing when you turn it on?
Q: It has a small leak that started this day and it has 60000 miles on it , also new or rebuilt . What is the appr. cost tohave a shop do it ?
probably not that hard but if you want the best result take it to a shop. but if they dont do good you can always thke them to court lol

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