• QJ Vertical Submersible Deep Well Centrifugal Water Pump System 1
  • QJ Vertical Submersible Deep Well Centrifugal Water Pump System 2
  • QJ Vertical Submersible Deep Well Centrifugal Water Pump System 3
QJ Vertical Submersible Deep Well Centrifugal Water Pump

QJ Vertical Submersible Deep Well Centrifugal Water Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
100 unit/month

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Quick Details

  • Place of Origin: Zhejiang, China (Mainland)

  • Brand Name: YONJOU

  • Model Number: QJ

  • Theory: Centrifugal Pump

  • Structure: Multistage Pump

  • Usage: Water

  • Power: Electric

  • Standard or Nonstandard: Standard

  • Fuel: electric

  • Pressure: Low Pressure

  • Application: Submersible

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:standard plywood or carton for each QJ vertical submersible deep well centrifugal water pump
Delivery Detail:10 days after receiving pre-payment

 

 

 

1.Operation parameters :

(1). Flow range : 10-500 m3/h

(2). Lift range : 10-600m

(3). Applicable well diameter : φ175-φ400mm

(4). Diameter scope:φ32—φ203mm;

(5).Temperature range: -15—100°C.

 

2. Product overview :

 QJ series deep well submersible waterpumps are widely used in farm irrigation, sprinkler irrigation, getting water from well, water supply and drainage system for industrial and civil building, water diversion project in hilly and mountain areas water drainage project in at low-lying areas, water supply and drainage in urban and rural's mining enterprisesand various ther kinds of water conservancy facilities. Its features are that the Motor and pump are assembled into a whole, so that it is simple in structure, convenient to assemble and disassemble, easy to use and maintain safe to operate. Otherwise, it covers an small area and does not pollute water.

 

3 QJ using condition:

(1) 380V voltage deviation is no more than ±5%,frequency is 50HZ, three-phase power deviation is no more than ±1%.

(2) Motor cavity must be filled with water.

(3) The first stage impeller of the pump should be more than 2mm below the moving water surface,  pump unit should be less than 70m below the static water level.

(4) The distance from the motor bottom to well bottom must be more than 3m.

(5) Water temperature should be no more than 20°C.

(6) Sand content of the water ( by mass) should be no more than 0.01%.

(7) PH value of water 6.5-8.5.

(8) Hydrogen sulfide content of the water should be no more than 1.5mg/L.

(9). Chloride ion content of the water should be no more than 400mg/L.

(10). Water yield of water source should ensure the requirements of pump continuous working.

 

4. Material

Impeller: Cast iron HT200,or stainless steel

Pump bowl: Cast iron HT200,or stainless steel,such as ss304 ss3016

Pump shaft : Cold-drawn steel with chrome plating,or stainless steel SS304 SS316

Motor Seal: Rubber O-ring seal,mechanical seal

Motor regulating sleeve: Rubber

 

Q: I just opened up the water pump on my '86 cr250 and found it to be pretty dry. Found out why as soon as I threw some light on it. Yep, all but a TINY hole in both hose nipples (?) are completely gunked up in some nice light green/white crap.Does anybody know what this is? Okay obviously it's coolant, but why is it so dry? What causes it? My bike never quot;overheatedquot;, but there's very little travel room for the liquid. What should I do now? Clean it out and run new water through it?
Appears your cooling system has not been flushed for years thus the build-up of slime, (seems maybe even 'dry-slime'). The cooling system should be flushed clean, a new water pump and gaskets installed.
Q: 1.5KW water pump caliber is 40, what is the flow rate?
General 40 caliber flow is 6.3 cubic meters, two pole motor lift about 32 meters.The so-called flow, refers to the unit of time through the closed pipeline or open channel effective cross-section of the fluid volume, also known as instantaneous flow. When the volume of fluid is expressed in volume, it is called volume flow. When the mass of fluid is expressed in mass, it is called mass flow.
Q: it just go? I was told that my water pump had leaked at least for awhile before it went and if it had been in the garage someone competent should have noticed it. Then other people have told me No it just goes.whats accurate?
Water pumps go when the seal around the bearing wears out. The leak starts out slow, but once it starts, there is nothing that can be done for it other than to replace it. The leak does start out slow, and get faster, but it can go from slow to fast in just a few days. Like you notice your car over-heats and needs water, and then a couple days later it needs more, and then you gotta fill it every day, and then like every hour, and then like every five minutes. Once it starts to leak, the water will leak a little slower if the engine is running and the radiator cap is loose, so that it cannot build pressure. But that trick is only good for getting you home, and then to the shop the next day. However, with the radiator cap loose, the water will leak faster if the engine is off. My wife's last car was ruined by severely over-heating, so it is not something you want to mess with. If your car severely over-heats, you will AT LEAST blow the head-gasket. So get it fixed as soon as possible, and in the meantime, carry jugs of water with you.
Q: I went to have my car inspected for a leak at a friendly garage I know. They said I need a new water pump and in the mean time just keep the levels always checked and filled. Is it safe to drive for a while or can the pump totally fail and overheat the engine. As far as I know it's just leaking at this stage, the pulley and belts are fine.
Yes it could fail and end up doing more damage then just fixing it now.Pay now or pay more later if something happens.
Q: I'm only 18 and don't know much about cars, but my car was overheating so me and my boyfriend brought it to a mechanic.They told me it needs a new timing belt and water pump and that alone would be like 1450.. From my research that sounds like bullshit. By the way I drive a 2000 neon, is it THAT hard to work on, or am I being ripped off?
sounds like a lot of money also i am not sure that's the problem better get a second opinion
Q: PROline Dishwasher has Broken down, after a detailed Examination of the appliance we have managed to conclude it is the Water Pump, I'm looking to find a new one to repair it myself but would like to know if any make one would fit, as Finding a PROline Water Pump has proven Great Difficulty, Any Knowledge of the matter would be greatly appreciated, Thank you
Unless you are sure that the problem is the water pump, you might want to check the hose to make sure it isn't clogged up and not allowing the water to drain out correctly. If you do need to change the pump, you will most likely have to replace it with the same pump. If you haven't done so, try going on line and enter your dishwasher make, model, and enter water pump and see what you can come up with. If your washer is an older model, it is possible it is no longer being made and it might be difficult to find parts for it. You might also try calling around in your local area to some appliance stores and ask them about finding the part or where you might find the part. You could also contact a repair service and just ask them if they can find the part for you if you are going to fix it yourself. If the pumps are still being made, any appliance repair service should be able to get you the part. If you can find a store that sells that brand of washer, they to should be able to get the pump for you to.
Q: The water pump needs to be replaced but now it is taking several attempts to start the car.
Be carfull with a failing water pump! Correct as the user above has said about bearings.. which can actually end up costing you more than a water pump if left uncehcked. You may also begin to leak antifreeze out of what is called a wheep hole. This will do two things.. lubricate your belt (belt slippage) and one larger issue, if it get blown into your alternator, say goodbye! Alternators and antifreeze do not mix.
Q: There is a 5.5KW before the pump head is now 25 meters and flow of 20 cubic meters, but not up to the requirements, I think this is like with a motor pump, lift more than 20 meters, the flow is about 40 cubic meters of water pump, please inform the models and parameters, thank you
With the motor pump are pump according to the actual need of work with you in the head, under the same water doubled, the motor is certainly not enough, you should this motor pump change together in order to meet the requirements of.
Q: 55KW motor driven lift 70M, the displacement of 180 cubic meters per hour of water pump, the configuration should be no problem, but after the start of the current to 170A (rated 100A), off a small valve to the current export half to reach the rated current. Why current will close a small valve instead of small? Will close a small valve will not affect traffic flow can be? To the 180 party?
Flow multiplied by the head is powerFlow can reach less than 180 parties, efficiency is reduced, the size of the impeller can be adjustedAnswer the question, add, depends on the structure of the pump, if the vacuum pump, as you imagine
Q: overheating.it has a new thermostat,radiator is clean.temp stays normal during idle,rises when i start to drive.ac is off when this happens.its a 4.7 dodge durango.can water pump simplyquot;go badquot;without ever leaking?
The short answer to your question: It is unlikely that a water pump will go bad without leaking, but weirder things have happened. Your thinking is right overheating only when you drive is an indication of limited flow, either caused by a restriction (radiator, hose, thermostat), an air bubble, or a bad pump. Are you sure that the air is bled out of your system? If you have an air pocket in your engine or at the pump, you will get reduced flow. I think that the 4.7 Durango has a radiator cap, if so, with the engine cold, take the cap off, fill it, and start the engine. If you get bubbles every time you rev the engine, then you may have a bad head gasket, this would introduce bubbles in the system... Make sure that the lower radiator hose is not collapsing. Most of these hoses have a stiff spring inside to keep them from collapsing when the water pump is running. Otherwise, my guess would be that your pump is bad, or you have more restrictions in your system. Good luck.

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