Q41F-10C series lining fluorine ball valve

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1. Q41F-10C series lining fluorine ball valve descriptions

Q41F-10C series lining fluorine ball valve is a professional design for the opening and closing of all kinds of strong corrosive medium, the body USES the carbon steel precision casting, lined with fluorine plastic ball valve and flow components are using steel skeleton outsourcing fluorine plastic.

Widely used in petroleum, chemical, acid alkali, pesticides, dyes, waste-water treatment, electroplating, electronics and other industries.

2. Application environment

Applicable temperature-20℃~120℃

Nominal diameter:(DN)20-250mm

Nominal pressure:(PN)1.0MPa

3. Model sense

Q41F-10C series lining fluorine ball valve

EX : Q41F-10-C-65

-Q: Type code:ballvalve

-4: Code for connection type: Flange

-1 : Code for connection type: Floating direct flow type

-F: Parts which is in contact with liquid flow is made with fluorine plastic

-10: Nominal Pressure 1.0MPa

-C: Material of valve body is carbon steel with melt mold

-65: Nominal Diameter is 65mm

4. Model and parameter technical

Q41F-10C series lining fluorine ball valve

5. Products features

-The fluorine lined ball valve with FEP lining layer has extremely high chemical stability and can be applied to any strong corrosion property except "molten alkali metal and element fluorine".

- Fluorine lined ball valve adopts the structure of full diameter and floating ball. The valve can be closed without leakage within the whole pressure range, which is more convenient for the ball cleaning and pipeline maintenance of the pipeline system.

- Ball parts and valve stem casting (forging) are integrated, eliminating the possibility of the valve stem bursting out of the pressure part due to pressure change, and fundamentally ensuring the safety in engineering.

- Fluorine lined ball valve structure is compact and reasonable, the body cavity space is the smallest, reduce the medium retention, in addition, special molding process, make the sealing surface density is good, combined with herringbone PTFE packing combination, make the valve to achieve zero leakage.

-Two-piece, three-piece structure can adapt to a variety of different requirements of the pipeline system and working conditions, including three-piece ball valve allows the main valve body and two sides of the body separation, ensure rapid online replacement, maintenance.

Q:What is a valve adjustment? I wanted to do one on my 1994 Honda civic ex cuz my friends told me I should do one but I wanted to know howmuch will it cost? And what will it do to my car in performance and gas consumption? My car right now has 155k miles.
Don't bother if you really don't need it (or don't know what it does). As cars get old, parts wear out and need to be adjusted. The valves open and close to let fuel in and exhaust gas out. unless you are suffering from some problem you don't need it. ==== I have 1994 Civic EX also. The good news is that the valves are very easy to access so the labor is cheap (no new parts unless the valves are really worn. good Luck P.S. My 94 Civic still runs like new and get great MPG. So if you get good MPG and have decent power, you don't need valve adjustment.
Q:Hi, I was told by my gardener that I need new sprinkler valves and each of those run about $50-70. I looked up online and I found them for $20 or less. Also what is the basic labor cost for getting them installed? I got estimates that range from $300-1000. I am confused.
If it is $50-$70 installed, that is a good price. Where I work, we get $125, and that is about the going rate in the north east. If you want to do it yourself, do not use Toro valves, Toro is garbage. Hunter, Rainbird, Irritrol, and Weathermatic are all good valves. Dig a nice big hole where the valves are, longer on the downstream side of the sprinklers. Cut the line coming out of the valve, and unscrew it. If it is a tight fit, take the valve apart and unscrew it. If you have to take the new valve apart to put it on, There are only 3 parts inside, so don't worry about not being able to put it back together. From top to bottom, they are the spring, the rubber diaphram and the plastic ring. Then reconnect the lines coming out of the valve. Then connect the wires from the solenoid. 1 wire from each valve gets connected to the common wire. Look in your timer to see what color it is. Then the other wire gets connected to individual wires. Check the order of the wires to the valves. Write it down. This will help keep the valves in the same order they are in now. The prices you got 50-70 is what your gardener told you for each (i am assuming that he is installing them.) The 300-1000 just estimates for installation from different contractors. Unless you have 8 valves or more, the $1000 sound real high. You do not have to be a plumber to install the valves.
Q:We have an ejector in the basement for an in-law apartment. When the check valve kicks in, it can wake us up from a sound sleep. A very loud thunking. Any ideas?
the check valve would be installed just outside of the crock vertically. The noise I doubt is from the check valve itself. I'd guess it is the pump shutting off and the pipe isn't fastened securely, so it bangs. Check to make sure that the run of pipe leaving the crock is fastened securely. if this is the case the only other option I oculd think of would be to re-position the check valve on a horizontal run of pipe as close to the crock as possible. Most check valves I have seen for ejectors are compression type, it will be messy but not to complicated. Keep a bucket handy, when you crack open that check valve you may need it. Flush the toilet until the pump kicks on a few times, this should clear out most of the nasty stuff. You may also need a short piece of 2 pipe and some couplings to make up for the space of the check valve. If you can hear the water flowing out when the pump kicks on and don't hear it draining back into the crock when it shuts off, the check valve is probably still good.
Q:i recently had a new condensing boiler and water cylinder replaced the existing radiators all have thermostatic valves fitted to them and worked fine until the boiler was replaced now all of my radiators when turned on, get as hot as the radiator without the valve on, i put each valve on number 2 which should be slightly warm, instead they are very very hot to the point you cant hold your hand on them for long one of the bedroom radiators can be heard bubbling like a kettle, i find it hard to believe all the valves could suddenly develop a fault could there be another reason for this ie fault with the fitting of pipework i am really concerned as we have young children in the house any thoughts on this much would be much appreciated
Actually, the thermostatic valves do control the temperature of the water in the radiator. I suspect the new boiler is storing water much hotter than the old one, because of the threat of legionella breeding there. A thermostatic mixing valve may have been installed at the point the water leaves the boiler, to introduce cold water as it heads out to the radiators, hoping to make the water closer in temperature to what you actually want in the radiator for heat. If they have the mixer adjusted too hot you can adjust that to have the water leave the mixer cooler than it is now. If there is no mixer in your new installation, then you would need to reduce the setting on your individual radiators to adapt to the hotter water they are using in boilers now, due to legionaire's disease.
Q:I know what a valve is, but I would like to know what an actuator does?
Valve actuators are part of a motor driven valve, the part that drives it. Generally it is an electric, hydraulic or pneumatic motor. The valve may be on/off, or regulated by a feedback servo system to open or close controlled amounts. The type of valve comes into it too, as some valves are more or less on or off, and others allow fine control without excessive force. Usually the valve and actuator are a package. Valves with actuators are useful for remote control and automatic control of processes. Some valves may need an actuator so they can be operated safely because of the hazards around them. Large valves may need an actuator because they need too much power to operate manually in a reasonable time.
Q:I have a 3406b motor. It has blow by. This happened when I hired a mechenic to do a top end. I belive that he did not ajust the valves correctly or something happen to the motor. I want to gap the valves to see if this helps out. How would I go on doing this.
NO, valves does not contribute to blow by in this way.Blow-by is the compression of the cylinder getting past the piston rings during compression. Adjusting the valves is a procedure of the induction and exhaust systems. All engines experience a little blow-by which is supposed to pass through the PCV valve ventilating the crankcase. GOOD-LUCK!! BRILLIANT!!!!
Q:hello my names matt and i have a 1997 eclipse 2.0 non turbo with 94k miles and the semi circul seal on my valve cover gasket has a small leak that i see oil dripping and i dont think the pcv valve has ever bin replaced could any of those cause my exhaust to burn oil maby a bad fuel injector? theres no oil in the top of the engine on the spark plugs when i check them all, the piston rings and the headgasket r not worn or cracked so idk what it could be some one please help
a leaking valve cover could only cause oil to burn when it drip,s onto the exhaust manifold that would be mainly under your hood...a plugged or bad P.C.V valve could cause crankcase pressure to build could cause minor oil consumption....if your sure your piston ring,s are in good condition then the valve seal,s would be the next suspect...change your positive crankcase ventilation valve first.....it would help to know more detail...like...does it burn more at start up or hard acceleration...that would indicate valve seal,s or guide,s....another thing would be just how much oil does it consume per mile....more detail will insure a more accurate answer...good luck!
Q:my dad's friend died, and dad had been keeping some valves of his. now we've been left with about 400 valves and i'm going to sell them.my main question is what are they used for? i need to write a description for ebay but have no idea what they're for! anyone know?also, how much should i sell them for? on the box it says 11 shillings, which i worked out as ?1.32, but how much should i sell them for on ebay? there's prices on ebay that are about 50p to ?1.50 for most of them, but some are about ?7 but have no bids at all. how much should i start the bidding at?also, if you could give me any other information that i should put in the description, i would really appretiate it :)they are mainly 'Mullard' valves (the company name) but some are 'MAZDA'thanks! :D
Valves (we call them 'tubes' here in the US, but 'valves' is actually a better description of how they work) were used on all kinds of electronics up to the 1970s. Radios and TVs mostly but also musical instrument amplifiers, PA system, etc.etc. In fact some high-end 'audiophiles' believe valves give you a better sound, so even today there are special (very expensive) amplifiers for both stereos and for guitars, that still use them. Only certain ones though, the ones that do final-stage amplification. And they still make the valves for these. People will want them for restoring old electronic gear, and to keep on the shelf in case one of theirs dies (they have a limited life). I have no idea what they're worth, but the answer to that question is: Whatever someone is willing to pay for them. So you have a few choices. Find shops that restore old electronics and call them and ask if they have anyone who would asses your valves, or even better, if they're interested in just buying the whole lot of them as a lot. Or go on EBay and look for the particular numbers and see what they've been selling for.
Q:So the plug in the bathroom since fell in, coming off the attachment to open and close it from the top. When I got under the sink, I turned the shut off valves all the way to the right and the water stoped working. I unscrewed the attachment and fixed the plug (on the drain no the water) and when I turned the vlaves back on, no water. It dribbles just a little ifi turn the sink all the way on, however I cant get full water pressure. Any help?
In some homes the place the sink is fixed to the wall, as on your case, there may be close off valves interior the basement at as quickly as under the bathing room. If there are none there then you certainly will maximum possibly ought to close off the main water the open the tub room sink faucets to empty off extra water. stable success.
Q:Does the new valve get glued or anything or do I just put it on tightly? I cannot tell if the existing valve is glued on or not.
If the old valve is plastic it may be glued . It is probably chrome plated brass and could be a compression type which most plumbers I know don't use on cpvc but on copper. there may be a male iron pipe thread adaptor (mip) you would need a backup wrench and unscrew the fitting. You may have a sharkbite fitting , with this you need a special tool to remove the fitting, once you have this tool figured out it is real simple to use. it is a type of slip compression fitting a pic may help us to identify it As long as it has a compression nut use a backup wrench and unscrew it and make sure the nut on the new valve will fit the old valve as some brands use an odball thread and that the debth of the protruding pipe is not to long so the new valve will seat against the compresion ring. and of course make sure the water main is off and the water is drainded as best you can.

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