• LED Car Headlight 9005 9006 Auto Lighting System 12V 24V System 1
LED Car Headlight 9005 9006 Auto Lighting System 12V 24V

LED Car Headlight 9005 9006 Auto Lighting System 12V 24V

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Tianjin
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Min Order Qty:
100 pc
Supply Capability:
100000 pc/month

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Specifications

Factory price 5 inch 40W auto lighting system led spot light 
1.Stainless steel bracket 
2.high intensity LED 
3.CE ROHS

1. Wide operating voltage range: it can apply to different types of vehicles .

 

2. Long life: more than ordinary advanced LED light bulbs, more than 30000 hours life .

 

3. Aluminum casing, shock-proof waterproof better.

 

4. Light perception: a softer light to prevent glare.

 

5. Waterproof and anti-corrosion: it can in the rain or harsh environments.

 

6. Lumen is 90-120LUMEN / W, much higher than ordinary halogen 20-30LUMEN / W.

 

7. One year limited warranty.

 

8. LED work lights are widely applied to enhance lighting, eg.Vessels,Bus,Off-road vehicles,Trucks,Fire Engines,Forklifts,Mining,Trains,Tanks,etc

 


Q:i have a fuel leak on my 306 hdi and know its because the in-tank fuel pump has been inserted wrongly, crossthreading the tank. i also have a warning light on my dashboard - the auto-diagnostics light. the manual says this indicates a problem with the furl injection system.would the fuel fuel leak caused by the incorrectly situated lift pump make this warning light appear. the car still runs ok (although leaking).
The light says that you are leaking fuel into the atmosphere rather than burning it. Usually this happens when a personfills the car with the engine running or leaves the gas cap loose. In your case, there may be a fuel injection problem, but I will bet that this bad fuel pump installation would cause the light to come on.
Q:please help me my car is up for inspection in two weeks, be specific in your answers
I chuckle whenever Check Engine questions arise, because inevitably half the answers automatically begin with, You need to replace the oxygen sensor. A lean condition is usually caused by a misfire, either through a faulty spark in one or more cylinders, or a fuel delivery problem, either through a clogged or malfunctioning fuel injector (causing the fuel to atomize improperly). Both conditions will result in an incomplete burn of the fuel/air mixture, causing the presence of excessive unburned oxygen in the exhaust, tripping the 'lean condition' code. Very rarely will the fault be the O2 sensor itself, and even then, the code for that will be, Oxygen sensor stuck in lean (or rich) position. The earlier suggestion of switching the sensors is a good one, but for the do-it-yourselfer, pullinng O2 sensors can be a real PITA. Unfortunately, this means you will have to do some troubleshooting to find the fault of the problem. Start by running a decent fuel injector cleaner through your motor if you haven't done so lately. BG-44K or Chevron Techron are good choices. Pull the plugs, as well, to ascertain their condition and to rule out the ignition system as a culprit. If neither of these things clears up the problem, have the car looked at by a competent mechanic. Just automatically replacing the O2 sensor when the 'check engine' light illuminates is what I call 'shotgun mechanics' - that is, firing lots of new parts at the car until it is fixed. It's also a ploy used by shady repair shop into getting you to buy up to four O2 sensors at as much as 150 bucks a pop.
Q:Well, here is the extent of my deal. I got last month a Chevrolet Malibu 2002. I noticed that , progresivelly more and more the turn signals on it were not functioning for some ammount of time. They would stop working when on the road for some time and then turn themselves on again either later down the road or after I stopped and parked. I am talking about both the lt;- -gt; and the lights themselves on both sides.I took it into an auto shop last week, they charged me a $135 for an extensive diagnostic. They checked wires, fuses, bulbs and took apart the steering column. Once in the steering column they said the multifunction switch was bad and it needs to be replaced to fix the problem. I happily did so especially since they have a 12 month 12,000 mile warranty on repair. Ended up being charged for part, labor and so on over $450.After I got out of the shop I noticed that the switch when pressing down and up on it felt incredibly tight wheares it was loose before.
Since the switch felt tight and operated OK for a period and then went loose again and started acting up at the same time, it does appear that the cause is the same as the first go around. Return to the shop and ask them to repair it under warranty. My guess is that either it (the new switch) was not installed correctly or they actually repaired the old one and the repair did not hold (constitutes fraud as you paid for a new one). Be polite, but be on your toes. There should be no charge this time around. If they try to stick you for more money, firm up on them (say no) and talk to your DA, and find an honest mechanic.
Q:On my 1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais with Auto Trans, if my Problem was with the Shift Linkage or ‘Detent,‘ Would my Reverse lights come on when i moved the Gear Selector into ‘R‘?Or should i just skip all Fluid remedies and have the Other Trans thrown in?SOmeone DID say i should change the Filter, and see what happens, then get it Flushed and see, to see if it will help build up Pressure to make reverse work, in other words Exhaust FLushing Options to try to bring it back.I have Trans for this in the Trunk.Thank You.
wall to the best of my understanding of auto trains missions it is my be leaf that with out fluid you have no flow and with no flow no presser and with now presser you can move the linkage all you like and nothing will happen except moving the linkage its salve and changing the Direction of flow but once more that brings you back to flow and what dose it take to get flow must be a pump some place like in the converter and that is in the front of your transmission and is cornet to the flywheel so now flow now light go blink until presser and flow
Q:The only other electrical problem that I have experienced with this car is that the keyless entry system wouldnt work when it would rain. Today, it rained and now the tail lights and interior lights remain on when I turn the car off, turn the lights to ‘off‘ and then lock the car. I have checked the fuses and they appear to be fine. There is one small light in the drivers side headlight compartment that is also on and I cant get them to go out! Any help would be appreciated.
There is a short to ground somewhere. Since car electrical systems are very complicated, this will require the attention of an ASE certified auto electrician.
Q:my check engine light came on so i went to auto zone they hooked up the computer to my car and it said control system leak detected and probable cause could be evap purge solenoid faulty-or canister vent solenoid faulty---blocked vapor canister---faulty vapor canister---faulty evap preasure sensor---loose or defective fuel cap--- it listed all these can this cause it not to pass emisions what should i focus on can it be evrything just bought the 2002 jeep grand cherokee at auction as is please help i have to get it to pass im nervous can this mess the motor up help im a female thank u very much
This Site Might Help You. RE: Do automotive oil additives really protect your engine? From STP oil treatment to Slick 50. Do they work?
Q:Recently my tail lights have quit working. My brake lights still work.Recently my car was acting kinda weird. When I would use my turn signal for the first time, it would auto lock the doors. That stopped after about 4 days. then, when I turn on my lights, the fasten seatbelt light flashes and buzzes at me. Last weekend that stopped after about 4 days.I have checked the fuse box, the fuses under the hood, and the wires connecting to the tail light unit.Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
i own a shop and try looking on the left side tail light ,for a small box that clips on it,and has a wiring harness on it,this is a control unit for the rear lighting system,I'm not sure if they used it on all Suzuki,s but i think they did,and this thing will short out,and make the lights go crazy on it,Nissan used them also,and it caused a lot of problems,its not an expensive little unit ,but it can cause some real headaches in trying to trouble shoot a wiring problem,yours may not have one but if its there try getting a good used one from a junk yard and see if that doesn't fix it,good luck with it,i hope this helps.
Q:detected. can someone please tell me what that could be and how much would it be to fix.
Could be a leaking fuel cap, could be anywhere on the evap lines or connections. It could be 10$ for a cap or a few hundred for any evap system components. Have a mechanic diagnose the system and get you a price.
Q:I was wondering about the gears in an auto cobalt, there‘s park, reverse, neutral, drive, and intermediate, and Low I looked up the low and intermediate gears, and they say it‘s basically 1st and 2nd gear, so I was wondering If it‘s used the same way as a stick, you know where you go from 1st to 2nd and so on, I wondered if your able to instead of putting it in drive put it on low, accelerate and once rpm is high you put it in intermediate. Sometimes when I‘m at a stop light I put it in intermediate and the car somewhat accelerates differently
lol i did that when i got bored of my automatic (pretended it was manual by shifting from 2 to 3 to drive) but no it is not good to do just leave it in drive, the low intermediate gears are used for going up steep hills, or going up steep hills when towing something heavy, most of the time unless a hill is insanely steep leaving it in drive is fine
Q:I do installing for a living and i am stumped on what to do about this. I put a viper 350hv in my 2002 dodge intrepid. my car never came with key less entry. mind you that car had power locks already. if i manually lock the door with the switch on the inside of the car and shut the door my dome light will dim and go out but if i just shut the door and lock it with the vipers fob the it will lock and chip twice meaning it is overriding the dome light because it wont dim. there are two ways i can think of to fix it. one is to set the setting on the viper to auto arm 30 seconds after the last door is shut or fix the dome light problem. please help!
I can think of a couple options. First of all, instead of connecting your door trigger wire to the dome light, you can connect it directly to the door switch wires. They should report only when the door is open, so the alarm won't detect the dome light delay. My listing shows a tan wire for the driver's door, and tan/red for the passenger doors; you'd have to use diodes if you want to connect both to the negative door trigger wire. If you close the driver's door, and lock it with the key in the door lock cylinder, does it automatically lock the other doors too? If so, you can find the wire from the door lock cylinder and connect your alarm's door lock output there. The wire should be light green with an orange stripe, somewhere in the driver's kick panel area. (It's a multiplex-resistor system, so if you install the right resistors, you can use the same wire to unlock). The advantage to doing this is that locking the door this way should also turn off the dome light immediately. Not all Intrepids have this feature, however. Otherwise, you can just turn off the open zone chirp in the Viper programming menu. The alarm will sense when the dome light shuts off and start covering the door zone at that point.

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