Horizontal Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
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Horizontal Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump
CHL/CHLK/CHLKF(T) serial light-duty stainless steel horizontal multi-stage centrifugal pumps are non-priming horizontal multi-stage centrifugal ones made by absorbability of world's advanced technology and design, including subsection type and cylinder type. With horizontal motors and quickly equipped mechanical seals, it is convenient for components replacement. They can be applied to slightly corrosive medium due to the flow passage parts made of stainless steel (304) and are substitutes for CH of the same kind used in abroad, warmly welcomed by users because of their high efficiency, low energy consumption, reliable quality and wide applications.
Feature:
1. Tremendously improve performance and enhance product life due to adoption of excellent water power model and advanced making techniques.
2. Enhance operating reliability and conveying medium temperature because of the use of horniness alloy and fluorine rubber mechanical seals.
3. Applied to slightly corrosive medium due to flow passage parts made of stainless steel after process of pressing and welding.
4. Compact structure, small size, light in weight, low noise, remarkable energy saving, easy for overhaul and maintenance.
5. To avoid damages from dry rotation, lack of electric phase, over-load etc because aptitude protector can be equipped on users' request.
6. Axial inlet and radial outlet, attached with long shaft electric motor.
Application:
1. Air-conditioning system
2. Cooling system
3. Industrial cleaning
4. Water treatment (Water purification)
5. Aquiculture
6. Fertilizing/metering system
7. Environmental application
8. Other special applications
Working Condition:
1. Medium temperature: -15oC ~ +120oC
2. Max ambient temperature: +40oC
3. Max ambient pressure: 10bar.
4. Advisable to use motor of higher power in case that the density or viscosity of medium is above that of water.
Medium:
1. Thin, clean, non-flammable, non-explosive medium containing no granule or fibre.
2. Such as mineral water, softened water, pure water, clean oil and other light chemical medium.
3. Slight corrosive medium.
Motor:
Full-enclosed ventilating two-pole standard motor
Protection class: IP55
Insulation class: F
Standard voltage (50Hz): Single phase 220V
Three- phase 220V/380V
- Q: What is LG water pump?
- The LG in the LG pump should be a brand, without much practical significance.
- Q: I think my water pump is going bad but figure id ask everyone to see what they thought. I leak coolant like the first 20 min i drive my truck and then it will seal itself up for the next day or two then start leaking again. It is getting leaked all over the belt and the fan is spraying it all around so you cant tell where exactly its coming from but i checked all the hoses and they are good and im pretty sure its not the radiator. Also, when it is leaking there is a loud whining noise when my trucks on and i heard that can be from the pump too.
- LOOK okorder on internet! WHAT SIZE IS ENGEIN HERE! FOur, five, six, eight yidner from WHAT COMPANY! NOBODY can answer thsi question for you without MORE DETAILS! THANX!
- Q: Okay heres the deal Its knockin and I tthink the water pump is going would this be a cause of this and when it heats up it knocks but when its cold it doesnt knock also once it gets hot it shuts off and starts to smoke what could this be is it maybe the waterpump when I try to re start the car after it shuts it self off it only just clicks wount turn over thanks
- I'm sorry to tell you, but from your description it sounds as if you have major internal engine damage. A water pump just won't cause the symptoms you are describing. I'd have to say your engine is close to seizing up entirely - the knocking sounds like rod knock in the bottom end of the motor.
- Q: Here is the deal...*Van over heats*Blows Cold quot;heatquot;*Added coolant and water (nothing happened)*Started van, felt the hoses (no h2o flowing thru)I really think my water pump is out, but I am not sure. Does this sound like my water pump. If so, I plan on changing it myself, how do i find step by step instructions to do so.... I have never done it before, but I cant afford to take it to a mechanic! Thanks for your help!
- If okorder look up the part there is a tab for instructions. otherwise when you pick up your pump by a repair manual they run about $17. Oh I live in Wisconsin if a case of beer works lol. Run the car with the radiator cap off and put your finger in the water. If water doesn't change temp it's your pump. if it gets alot warmer and overheats it's thermostat.
- Q: I'm going to buy a pump to take water from a lake and use it to water the grass at my cottage. I would like to run at least 2 hoses at the same time. I'm looking at one that's 3/4 horse. Is this too small? The yard is a little more than an acre.
- not only do you have to move a lot of water, but you have to LIFT it over a long distance.... you may need a pump in the middle of your distance, as well....
- Q: How long should it take a mechanic to replace a water pump on a 96 dodge intrepid ES with a 3.5L engine? I was given a estimate of 6 hours does it really take that long? at 100.00 a hour I'm not sure my car is worth fixing
- I would do 1 for $100 period $100 an hour means that your mechanic missed a house payment
- Q: how to replace water pump in a 96 F150?
- 1. drain coolant 2. remove engine fan and clutch assembly 3. remove radiator hose connection at water pump 4. remove water pump 5. clean water pump to engine mating surfaces 6. install water pump with water pump gasket 7. rest of installationin reverse order of removal
- Q: me and my friends are contemplating going on a road trip.almost 20 hours of driving.but we dont have a water pump, can you drive without one?
- you can drive 10 to 20 minutes with out one and then walk the rest of the way
- Q: I have a cabin cruiser and I recently took it out of storage and had it de winterized. Now everything seems to work except for the fresh water pump for the sink, shower and toilet. Does this type of pump need to be primed? If so how do you prime it? Thank you for the help.
- most likely the pressure switch is stuck/corroded. this is a common problem with on demand type pumps.try tapping on the pressure switch to see if it will work.if the pump is installed properly,the motor should be at the top and the pump and switch will be at the bottom.i consider these pumps disposable. expect to replace it every couple of years.
- Q: OK so i am new to RVing....I have an older 1971 trailer pull forester....It has a your normal fresh water inlet on the outside of the trailer, fresh water tank, and water pump. My question is actual a double part question #1 When i screw the hose on the inlet and start filling the water tank i hear it going in but i still have no water coming out the faucet...Does this have to do with the water pump? why am not getting water to anything except i hear the tank filling up?!?#2 Is the Water pump A/C or D/C......I have that little pull knob (that i guess turns it on or off) and i was curious if i needed to be hooked up to the Battery in front to make this work? or should it work with the regular AC that everything else is working on?Thanks for any help
- There should be a switch to turn on your water pump and they are normally 12 Volt.There should also be a separate battery that runs all the 12 Volt systems in your RV.When you turn on your water pump it should build up pressure then shut off.It will turn back on as you use it.I think they are set at 40psi.I think you are going to find that you either have a dead battery or your pump is no good.The battery is usually located in a side compartment.Good luck.
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Horizontal Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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