Horizontal Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

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Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Product Description:

Horizontal Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

CHL/CHLK/CHLKF(T) serial light-duty stainless steel horizontal multi-stage centrifugal pumps are non-priming horizontal multi-stage centrifugal ones made by absorbability of world's advanced technology and design, including subsection type and cylinder type. With horizontal motors and quickly equipped mechanical seals, it is convenient for components replacement. They can be applied to slightly corrosive medium due to the flow passage parts made of stainless steel (304) and are substitutes for CH of the same kind used in abroad, warmly welcomed by users because of their high efficiency, low energy consumption, reliable quality and wide applications.
Feature:
1. Tremendously improve performance and enhance product life due to adoption of excellent water power model and advanced making techniques.
2. Enhance operating reliability and conveying medium temperature because of the use of horniness alloy and fluorine rubber mechanical seals.
3. Applied to slightly corrosive medium due to flow passage parts made of stainless steel after process of pressing and welding.
4. Compact structure, small size, light in weight, low noise, remarkable energy saving, easy for overhaul and maintenance.
5. To avoid damages from dry rotation, lack of electric phase, over-load etc because aptitude protector can be equipped on users' request.
6. Axial inlet and radial outlet, attached with long shaft electric motor.
Application:
1. Air-conditioning system
2. Cooling system
3. Industrial cleaning
4. Water treatment (Water purification)
5. Aquiculture
6. Fertilizing/metering system
7. Environmental application
8. Other special applications
Working Condition:
1. Medium temperature: -15oC ~ +120oC
2. Max ambient temperature: +40oC
3. Max ambient pressure: 10bar.
4. Advisable to use motor of higher power in case that the density or viscosity of medium is above that of water.
Medium:
1. Thin, clean, non-flammable, non-explosive medium containing no granule or fibre.
2. Such as mineral water, softened water, pure water, clean oil and other light chemical medium.
3. Slight corrosive medium.
Motor:
Full-enclosed ventilating two-pole standard motor
Protection class: IP55
Insulation class: F
Standard voltage (50Hz): Single phase 220V
Three- phase 220V/380V




Horizontal Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

 


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Q:how do I replace a water pump ?
need to know what type of car and motor size
Q:Dodge Stratus Water Pump MAYBE!!?
I'm sorry to tell you, but from your description it sounds as if you have major internal engine damage. A water pump just won't cause the symptoms you are describing. I'd have to say your engine is close to seizing up entirely - the knocking sounds like rod knock in the bottom end of the motor.
Q:Who can tell me such water pump medium flow direction should be what kind of, from left to right, or from right to left, is low into the higher?
Low inlet and outlet
Q:How do I calculate the power of the pump?
A 15kw pump, know how to calculate the head pumping water for an hour (if the head is 10 meters)Lift: MFlow rate: kg / sec (general water pump is cubic / hour, if 10 cubic hour / hour: 2.7 kg / sec)Efficiency: average 60%15000/102*0.6=88 kilograms per second88/10=8.8 kg / sec8.8*3600=31680 kg / h=31.6 cubic / hour
Q:1986 cr 250 water pump problems?
Adding to jon's answer - loosen the nut by turning it counter-clockwise.
Q:how serious is a broken water pump on a 95 mazda 626?
your car WILL over heat and you will need a new engine if you dont change the water pump. most people dont have the luxury of knowing their water pump is about to go. so what you do it go down to advanced or auto zone get your self a DIY book for your car 15.00 and a water pump 50 and some accessory belts because if yoy go through all this trouble to take them off you might as well change them. also check the timing belt because you will have access to it when u remove the water pump if it looks likes its going to go bad in the next 10K or so miles change it. when you remove the pump and belt change gaskets this is most imperative!
Q:What is the reason that the water supply of pump is getting smaller?
1., first look at the external situation, to see whether the water pump is running, the water level is not normal, the water inlet has nothing blocked.2., exclude the external situation, or small water, the pump itself may leak, it will also make water smaller
Q:How long will a bad water pump last?
This may sound crazy, but I drove my car for nearly 3 months with a failing water pump. Fortunately, I live in a very small town and would only drive a few miles at a time, but it was still a major hassle. I had to carry a huge thing of water and constantly refill it, along with several times of sitting on the side of the road, waiting for my engine to cool down. You have to be VERY careful not to blow a head gasket by overheating your car. I don't know how bad your water pump is, but my mine was literally dripping water out as I was filling it up. I think if you wait a week and are very careful, you should be fine. I know all car guys/gals are going to disagree, because it's not the proper answer, but it's the truth for me. Good luck
Q:BMW E92 Possible water pump issues...?
E92 has should be an electric water pump if it's a 6 cylinder. The oil level will read inactive until the engine is up to operating temp. As for the grinding noise- they need to remove the belt and start the car. If the noise is gone- spin the idler pulley and listen for bearing noise. I've had a couple of alternators go bad on these cars so I can't fully fault the shop- but they SHOULD have verified the source of the noise as well as the repair. Other potential issues would be the P/S pump or the A/C compressor. (only items on the belt).
Q:how to remove water pump?
It would help to post the year, engine size.

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