Horizontal Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

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Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Product Description:

Horizontal Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

CHL/CHLK/CHLKF(T) serial light-duty stainless steel horizontal multi-stage centrifugal pumps are non-priming horizontal multi-stage centrifugal ones made by absorbability of world's advanced technology and design, including subsection type and cylinder type. With horizontal motors and quickly equipped mechanical seals, it is convenient for components replacement. They can be applied to slightly corrosive medium due to the flow passage parts made of stainless steel (304) and are substitutes for CH of the same kind used in abroad, warmly welcomed by users because of their high efficiency, low energy consumption, reliable quality and wide applications.
Feature:
1. Tremendously improve performance and enhance product life due to adoption of excellent water power model and advanced making techniques.
2. Enhance operating reliability and conveying medium temperature because of the use of horniness alloy and fluorine rubber mechanical seals.
3. Applied to slightly corrosive medium due to flow passage parts made of stainless steel after process of pressing and welding.
4. Compact structure, small size, light in weight, low noise, remarkable energy saving, easy for overhaul and maintenance.
5. To avoid damages from dry rotation, lack of electric phase, over-load etc because aptitude protector can be equipped on users' request.
6. Axial inlet and radial outlet, attached with long shaft electric motor.
Application:
1. Air-conditioning system
2. Cooling system
3. Industrial cleaning
4. Water treatment (Water purification)
5. Aquiculture
6. Fertilizing/metering system
7. Environmental application
8. Other special applications
Working Condition:
1. Medium temperature: -15oC ~ +120oC
2. Max ambient temperature: +40oC
3. Max ambient pressure: 10bar.
4. Advisable to use motor of higher power in case that the density or viscosity of medium is above that of water.
Medium:
1. Thin, clean, non-flammable, non-explosive medium containing no granule or fibre.
2. Such as mineral water, softened water, pure water, clean oil and other light chemical medium.
3. Slight corrosive medium.
Motor:
Full-enclosed ventilating two-pole standard motor
Protection class: IP55
Insulation class: F
Standard voltage (50Hz): Single phase 220V
Three- phase 220V/380V




Horizontal Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

 


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Anytime I replace a water pump, intake gasket, or anything else where the coolant needs removal, I always suggest to my customers that we change the thermostat as well. Many times I just change it anyway. I tell the customers, but really don't offer an option! (of course if they say don't I will honor that, but no one has ever said that!) It is possible that during a flush some trash/scale got into the thermostat causing improper operation. With the thermostat removed, there is no restriction in the cooling system making flushing easier and more thorough. Now to answer your question, It is my opinion he SHOULD HAVE. That is not only an up-sell (even though I hate creating extra work) it is just an added value to the customer. He should also check belts and hoses, changing them (via customer approval) if needed. As a mechanic, the last thing I want is a comeback such as yours was because I at the very least didn't suggest a proper service!
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you can make it even easier by purchasing a hayne's manual for your car when you buy the water pump. you will need it anyway so you can have the proper torque specs and sequence when reinstalling the new water pump. so if you don't have a torque wrench you will need to rent one. the first step of course will be to drain your cooling system. then use masking tape and a sharpie to number any connectors or hoses you have to remove to access the water pump. once the old one is off make sure to clean every trace of gasket material from the mating flange. then when you are ready to reinstall put a thin coat (use you fingers to spread)of rtv silicone to each side of the new gasket this will help hold in place. then here's where you will need the book insert the bolts and tighten them in sequence shown to the proper torque unless you want to chance cracking the new pump housing. on a car this old if it has not already been done now would be a good time to replace hoses (esp. if they are soft) and your thermostat since you've already got the cooling system drained. once everything is reassembled start the engine and begin pouring in the new coolant, if there are any bleed screws open these it's very important to get all the air out of the system if there are no bleed screws you can leave the cap off the radiator or expansion tank (you'll need to anyway) since one you think its filled when the thermostat opens its all gonna drain down and you'll have to top it off again. here is a good time to pay attention as it approaches normal operating temp be ready to start pouring as soon as the level starts to drop that will help keep more air from getting in. any questions feel free to e-mail me

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