Stainless Steel Horizontal Centrifugal Pump

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Shanghai
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TT OR LC
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1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Item specifice:

Item: Stainless Steel Horizontal Centrifugal Pump Material: Stain Steel Exporting countries: Ameircan,Japan,Australian etc
Pressure range: Low Pressure Application: Customer Required

Product Description:

Application
CHL, CHLK and CHLF (T) type pump are mainly used in industrial field:
A. Air-conditioning system
B. Cooling system
C. Industrial cleaning
D. Water treatment (Water purification)
E. Aquiculture
F. Fertilizing/metering system
G. Environmental application
H. Other special applications

Applicable medium
A. Thin and clean non-flammable and non-explosive liquid without solid granules and fibers.
B. Mineral water, soft water, pure water, edible vegetable oil and other light chemical mediums.
C. When the density or viscosity of to-be-conveyed liquid is larger than that of water, it is necessary to select a driving motor of high-power.
D. Whether a specific liquid is suitable for the pump depends on many factors, among which the most important ones are chlorine content, pH value, temperature, solvent and oil content.
Pump
A. Horizontal multistage non-self-priming centrifugal pump, attached with long shaft electric motor.
B. Compact structure renders small size of pump; Axial inlet and radial outlet.

Motor
A. TEFC motor 2-pole
B. Protection class: IP 55
C. Insulation class: F
D. Standard voltage,
50 Hz: 1*220-240V
3*220-240V/380-415V
60Hz: 1*220-240V
3*220-240V/380-415V
E. Single phase motor (max): 2.4kW

Operation condition
A. Liquid temperature:
Normal temperature: -15oC~+70oC; Hot water type: -15oC~+110oC
B. Ambient temperature: Up to +40oC
C. Max. Operation pressure: 10 bar
D. Max. Inlet pressure is limited by max. Operation pressure.

Model description
CHL4-30
CHL: Light horizontal multistage centrifugal pump (glow passage components stainless steel 304 or 316)
4: Rated flow (m3/hr)
30: Stage× 10
________
CHLK4-30
CHL: Light horizontal multistage centrifugal pump (glow passage components stainless steel 304 or 316)
K: Stainless steel air-conditioning pump
4: Rated flow (m3/hr)
30: Stage× 10

CHLF(T)4-30
CHLF(T): Light horizontal multistage centrifugal pump(F stands for "section type", T means "suction and discharge are made of cast iron"; Stainless steel, omitted)

Model

CHL2

CHL4

CHL8

CHL16

CHL8

CHL16

Rated flow(m 3 /h)

2

4

8

16

8

16

Flow range(m 3 /h)

1~3.5

1.5~8

5~12

8~22

5~12

8~22

Max pressure(bar)

5.5

4

5

4

5

4

Motor power(kw)

0.37~0.75

0.37~0.75

0.75~2.2

2.2~3

0.75~2.2

2.2~3

Temperature range( o C)

-15~+110

Max efficiency(%)

46

59

64

70

64

70

Outlet

G1

G1.25

G2

G2

G1.5

G1.5

Inlet

G1

G1

G2

G2

G1.25

G1.25


Stainless Steel Horizontal Centrifugal Pump

 


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A Coleman product failed?!! Them's fightin' words! ;) I'm a big fan of Coleman. Perhaps thinking outside the box will help. All you need is a water pump which will run off 12 volts. Have you considered simple products designed to pump fuel, like from the aux tank in the back of a pickup? All you want is a gallon per minute, which is pretty slow for a fuel pump, but they are durable, cheap and run on 12volts. But you'd have to run a control box (electric) into the shower to turn it off and on. Wires are the bane of the camper! How can we eliminate complex wiring and electrical systems? Since this is DIY (does that rhyme with DUI? ;), perhaps a junkyard fuel pump from a car would do the trick? Pretty low flow and electrically driven since some darned fool lately decided the pump belongs INSIDE the gas tank. Never could see the logic of that.... You do know (of course) that extension cords lose power over distance. This is especially the case with 12v since there isn't much juice to begin with. How close will the car be to the shower? 10' is nothing but 50' will impede efficiency. I dare not question your motives for wanting a hot shower, that's one of the best invention of mankind. But I will ask how much trouble is it worth? Something wrong with using fire to heat water, mixing it into a 5 gallon bucket to get the temp right and shower as one would in a bathroom with a tub but no shower, using the water pitcher method of pouring it over oneself occasionally during the shower? Ya ain't got a girl in there, or under your wing, do you? Consorting with females would be a violation of the mountain man code, unless one is rescuing damsels in distress.
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Work is force x distance, which is conveniently pounds x feet. Since we are only interested in the height here (as that is the direction we are pumping), we only need to integrate along that path. The differential weight/force being pumped is the volume (LxWxH = 2 x 3 x dH) times the density (80) and the distance is the height that volume is pumped (6 - H). So W = integral( 6 * 80 * dH * (6-H)) from H=0 to 6 W = integral ((2880 - 480H) dH) = 2880H - 240*H^2 = 2880(6) - 240*(6)^2 = 8640 foot-pounds of work. If you are pumping from the spout, replace the 6-H with 11-H, and the answer becomes 23,040 foot-pounds, which makes sense since you have almost tripled the averge height you were lifting. For the 2/3, change the range of the integration to H = 2 - 6, since H = 0 - 2 represents the water at the bottom of the tank that will still be there later. This gives you answers of 3840 and 13,440 foot-pounds respectively, showing that the last couple of feet are the hardest to pump out (because they have the farthest to go...)
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I would check the thermostat. But you don't check it like the first answer indicates. Pull the thermostat out. Look at it if it is open it is bad. If it is closed put it in a pot of boiling water. If it does not move it is bad. This may seam like allot to go through but if it is not the thermostat your only out the cost of a new gasket. And you know for sure. If there is nothing wrong with the thermostat , than you aren't getting circulation. A few causes would be: Cooling system clogged water pump bad internal leak or external leak. If you have a leak the system can't build pressure.It will take a long time to warm up and or it will make you think it is over heating but it will only be a leak. It will also run hot. NEVER OPEN A RADIATOR CAP WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT. YOU WILL BE GOING TO THE HOSPITAL TO HAVE YOUR BURNS TREATED!!!
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They're equal (VB and VB6 variations of VB, surely VBA is super high-degree) in the phrases of where they rank within the excessive-stage/low-stage programming language rankings. Java is extra priceless without problems for the reason that it results in other matters (and could be very marketable on it's own), particularly c/c++/c# and net languages like php/javascript which have c-like cyntax. VB.Web and VB6 don't particularly result in so much (although they each support comprehend object-orientation). you can do the identical matters with visual normal that you can do with Java or C++. You are not able to do the identical things in VB as c++. For C# that you would be able to make a small case because it does aid c++-like code (hazardous keyword) but absolutely not VB.Internet (or VB6 most likely). Just are trying doing a C# an identical of stackalloc in VB.
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This Site Might Help You. RE: 1994 honda accord lx water pump what does it do? i have a 1994 honda accord lx. i was wondering what the water pump is for and if it goes bad can i still drive around without it thanks
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make sure the when ya take the old one off that ya clean the surface real good where it bolts on. razor blade to take off any old gasket ect. some fine sandpaper to sand it down smooth for the new gasket helps to,just dont gouge it.use some of that red silicone in a tube,can get it at any auto parts, smear both sides of the gasket,the engine , and the water pump. let it cure out till its almost dry. bolt the new one on but when ya tightening it down do the bottom bolts first then the top bolts. add the antifreeze and check for leaks .good luck
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