HN Series Canned Motor Pump with High Quality
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 500 unit/month
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Production Overview of HN Series Canned Motor Pump
The canned motor pump body connects directly with motor front flange, and can convey the medium low temperature fluid with no granule be zero leakage.
The Canned Pump is a centrifugal pump, close coupled to a Canned Motor in such a way that
there is no dynamic shaft seal, no couplings and no ball bearings. The motor is cooled by the
pumped liquid and the sleeve type.
Bearings are lubricated by the same liquid. This eliminates the need for external lubrication.
The stator of the driving motor, which is usually three phase squirrel cage induction motor,
which is hermetically contained in a stator containment that consist of an external frame tube,
out board & inboard end plates and the internal cylinder liner. The rotor which is welded on
the shaft, is also encapsulated with a non magnetic liner. Both stator liner (Stator Can) and
rotor liner (rotor can) are seal welded at both ends, and does not allow any part of the motor to be
exposed to external environment or internal pumped liquid.
Featurers of HN Series Canned Motor Pump
1) No shaft seals, no leak paths
2) No buffer pots to maintain
3) No coupling or alignment problems
4) Primary leak containment shell
5) Proven bearing monitor detects bearing wear before primary leak containment shell is contacted by the rotor
6) Dry stator design and sealed junction box terminal plate
7) Controlled bearing enviroment, conservation bearing design and hydraulic thrust balancing，extended bearing life
FAQ
Q: How can I get trained on CNBM products?
A: Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.
Q: Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?
A: CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.
Q: Do you have self-priming pumps?
A: Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.
Q: Is it really necessary to fit a bleed valve for the boxes?
A: It is always best to have a bleed valve as the gas produced by the fermenting sewage is potentially hazardous.
Q: If I increase the power of the motor, must I also increase the power of the inverter?
A: You must select the size of converter that allows maximum absorption of the electric motor.
Q: Do you have pumps with grinders?
A: Yes, the WQ models.
- Q:and how do I get it to work 24 hours a day?and on the pump there is written: 2 A, and on another part: 220-240 Vdoes that mean its wattage is 440-480Watt?
- You are correct Amps x Volts = watts and since there are about 750 watts per Hp then you have a 2/3 Hp motor. Water pumps can be either submerged in the well bore hole or located top side. A top side well pump relies on the air around it to cool the motor. THe motor may not be rated for continuous duty (see name plate on motor) and may only be rated for a limited amount of time it can be run before it needs a cool down period. (Typically motors are rated for continuous duty) Submersible well pumps are located under water in th well and use the water in contact with the motor housing to cool them. Cooling is thus related to the water flow around the motor and the availability of water. Normal well pump usage for a home is for brief periods when water is actually being used and to maintain system pressure. So unless you are constantly watering your lawn your pump should cycle on and off as necessary. Continuous running is a sign that there is a problem such as a leak, worn pump not achieving proper pressure, or pressure switch setting or similar issue not allowing proper shutdown. If you have a submersible well pump it will be very difficult to tell when it is running unless you can hear the motor contactor open and close or have an indicator light. A properly operating water system will pressurize an accumulator storage tank (water pumped into a tank which contains an air bladder that can be compressed). Once the tank is pressurized the pump shuts off and stays off until the pressure in the tank drops. Pressure drops when you use water or if the water leaks back into the well. At which time the pump runs again and tops off the tank. So in a properly operating system shutting off the well at night won't save you much because the pump should not be running. However if you have a leak and the pump is running a lot you can secure the power to the pump at night until you can get the system repaired
- Q:My water pump was replaced 3 months ago,but it stopped spraying water yesterday, How do I unclog the intake / Outflow?
- its the impeller. flush the motor and see if you get little pieces of rubber (the fins of the impeller). and if you still have a warranty then your dealer should fix it for you. a new impeller cost ten buck so if you want to do the labor it will cost you ten bucks
- Q:I need to fit a booster pump to increase pressure from a gravity fed vented solar water heater (uses vacuum tubes).The problem is that the temperature of the water from the solar panel can be very high - in fact it could boil under some circumstances. It's safe because the system is vented.As the quot;solarwater feeds existing water heaters in the house, diluting the hot with some cold prior to the pump with an automatic mixer valve is not really an attractive option as we want to gather as much hot water as possible.Can anyone tell me where to get a booster pump that can operate at up to 100 Deg C, delivering 2 bar pressure and about 25 liters per minute. Thanks.
- Well, you have to have a mixer valve if your temps are over 140F If I understand you correctly, you could put your mixer valve on the gravity fed hot water and then the output of the mixer valve goes to the inlet of a pump that can handle 140F. Then you don't need a mixer on the hot water tank in the house. And finding a pump that can handle that temp will be a lot easier. Also, storing high temp water is very inefficient. The higher the delta Temp is from the water to the ambient surroundings, then the lower the efficiency. You could save just as much energy in the water by increasing your water tank size and lowering your temp. For instance a 100 gallons of water close to boiling has the same stored energy as 150 gallons of 140F water. And you don't need a mixer at that point and you don't need a special pump either. I'm assuming you are using storage on the roof with a thermosyphon? Can you add more water storage next to that one?
- Q:In my house. Any ideas regarding how much this is going to cost me?
- As a plumbing contractor I would quote you over phone for a 50 gallon electric water heater installed for 675 (State Select is the brand I install) as far asa a water pump a circulating pump (just to circulate hot water around the house installed would be 140 but if it's youw well pump we'd need to know depth and hp of pump to give an estimate otherwise 84 an hour plus material pumps start at 225 here but if you'd rather trust a well driller (truck driver smart enough to dig a hole) go ahead
- Q:What will the water pump reversal situation?
- The same will reverse pump water, but the head and the pressure greatly reduced, I just finished debugging a pumping station, Stephen multi-stage pump, installation of equipment: multistage water pump motor power 4 75KW 76% head 100 meters, frequency control, motor nameplate nominal current of 143. According to the direction of the motor steering pump mark OK set the start time of 28 seconds after 5HZ boot head start frequency can reach 50 meters (at that time did not install the pressure gauge cannot observe the water pressure of current) in early 118 about 3-5 minutes after the current is reduced to about 97, there are inspection found no problems, suspected pump problems, suspected foot valve not completely open, the reason cannot exclude the end of valve, almost in despair when the thought is not marked in the direction of the pump, re set to restart the current 129.5A to observe that later installed capacity reached 0.55MPa duct pressure gauge head close to the design requirements, the problem on the manufacturer's mark is reverse.
- Q:This is what it is doing- the actual pump that is in its own little shed CLICKS all of the time water is being ran, even a small amount of water. The water pressure goes to a slow trickle and eventually stops completely. After about 20-30 minutes I go back and check the spickets and the water is fine, but quickly repeats this same cycle. We just installed this pump about 3 weeks ago. It was doing fine until last week. Does it need to be primed or pressure switch settings increased or decreased? Or am I talking totally out of my head?!
- Might be air in the water lines. Be careful and don't allow the pump to run very long when it isn't pumping any water or you will be buying another pump. It sounds like it is loosing it's prime as it builds up enough to send water to the faucets and then looses it's prime and then has to wait until it builds up enough to start over again. You may need to call someone out and have them run down the problem before you burn up your new pump.
- Q:cars leaking coolant from the right side just dont kno if its the water pump
- Water pump will be at the front center of the engine usually about 2 behind the fan belt Please be very careful never to allow the vehicle to run low on coolant or serious and expensive engine damage will occur. If in doubt don't drive it until its fixed Take a flashlight and take a good look over the whole engine compartment giving close attention to all the hoses connecting the engine to the radiator its best to find the exact location of the leak and get it fixed.Coolant leaks usually leave a discolored stain so this may help in finding it. Also take a look at the carpet on both front floorpans of the vehicle its possible that the cars heater may have failed and this will leak coolant all over either 1 or both floor pans which can then leak out on to the ground below via a drain hole.
- Q:A guy i know changed the Water pump on my 02 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.7 in it because it was leaking coolant, when i got it back the leak was fixed but now there is a ticking noise. He thinks that the Timing Chain Tensioner needs to be replaced... can i get some opinions here? does he sound correct?
- Most mechanics won't even work on those 2.7 motors! The timing chain tensioners break all the time and after repairs the motor keeps coming back for more. I'd trade that POS before it doesn't run again!!!
- Q:Had my car in to the shop this morning, it's a 2000 Ford Escort ZX2. The water pump and radiator need to be replaced, and they said they can do it for $380. Is this a reasonable price? Also, if I don't get them fixed right away, am I risking a lot of permanent damage to the engine?
- Radiator is around $80-100.00, water pump around $30-50, But mechanics can get these parts at a cheaper price. A tad bit high for labor cost of 230 I think, just my opinion. Yes, if cooling system fails, engine will overheat and cause more damage.
- Q:My deep water pump buzzes when it pumps or something it just happen this morning so whats wrong with it
- I'm guessing the pump is not in the well but in your basement? If so, it's probably the pressure switch vibrating and not making connection.
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HN Series Canned Motor Pump with High Quality
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 500 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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