• GT1544V 753420-0005 Turbocharger for Citroen C3 C4 C5 Picasso 1.6 TDi System 1
  • GT1544V 753420-0005 Turbocharger for Citroen C3 C4 C5 Picasso 1.6 TDi System 2
  • GT1544V 753420-0005 Turbocharger for Citroen C3 C4 C5 Picasso 1.6 TDi System 3
GT1544V 753420-0005 Turbocharger for Citroen C3 C4 C5 Picasso 1.6 TDi

GT1544V 753420-0005 Turbocharger for Citroen C3 C4 C5 Picasso 1.6 TDi

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
5 unit
Supply Capability:
500 unit/month

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Quick Details


Type:Turbochargers

OE NO:GT1544V 753420

Model Number:GT1544V 753420 For Ford Focus 1.6 TDCI 110HP

Part No:GT1544V 753420

Engine Name:DV6TED4


Packing & Delivery


Packing Detail:

  • Neutal Packing or the package as requirement

  • One turbo in a Carton

  • Wooden case is a good choice for ocean shipping

Delivery Detail:7-30 Days.(As Per Quantity)


Specifications



  • High Speed, higher torque and improved response.

  • Lower Fuel Consumption.

  • Turbo and all its parts 100% changeable with original.

  • Perfect Follow-up Service





Model No.GT1544V
Part No.

753420-0005 753420-0003

753420-0004 753420-0002

O.E.M. No.

9656125880 9660641380

9663199280 9657248680

3M5Q6K682AK 3M5Q6K682AH

8603746 36002480


Application

for Citroen C3 1.6 HDi

for Citroen C4 1.6 HDi

for Citroen C5 1.6 HDi

for Citroen Picasso 1.6 HDi

for Ford C-Max 1.6 TDCi

for Ford Focus 1.6 TDCi

for Ford Mondeo 1.6 TDCi

for Mazda 3

for Mini Cooper D

for Peugeot 206 1.6 HDi

for Peugeot 207 1.6 HDi

for Peugeot 307 1.6 HDi

for Peugeot 407 1.6 HDi

for Volvo S40

for Volvo V50

EngineDV6TED4
Power108HP
CertificateISO/TS 16949

 

Other Info


Warranty:6 months


In Addition,we are also business in parts of Turbocharger such as:

Turbine Housing

Compressor Housing/Cover

Bearing Housing

Repair Kits

CHRA

Valve

Shaft Wheel 

Compressor Wheel/Impeller





Q:I have a 1983 Camaro z28 w/ 305 v8, 4 barrel, 5 spd std, carbed, roller rockers and lumpy cam, im looking to replace the stock exhaust system with something throaty, something grumbly any suggestions? borla, magnaflow, flowmaster? leave it as it is and drop in new headers? maybe magnaflow 16829 cat back performance system? what do you think
go with a tri-y headers, IF you want dual exhaust then make sure you have a X pipe to link both right and left pipes, dont go straight, I like dyno max muffs, but the flowmaster off road muffs really flow good, now a 2 into 1 does produce better torque over a dual exhaust, Last since your into trashing our enviroment dont bother with the cats and yank them, my guess is your engine is over carbed and with a rich running engine you will do nothing but ruin and block up the cats, And with a proper built engine with correct emission, I can build an engine with only maybe less than 5 HP or more HP and better track time and mileage than what you got and be smog complitent. It is a matter of blue printing, parts matching and lots of time and money. You ever dyno tune your carb to that cam you got in the engine? guessed not, do that and see how much hp/ torque you are missing, oh and last did you get the correct stall converter to match the cam and geared the rear end to match too?
Q:CHANGEING EXHAUST
HUH!? BOV means Blow off Valveand this question makes no sense. go trade in the neon for the srt-4 and actually get a bov and an engine to make that exhaust sound nice.
Q:i dont know too much but. i know there are the headers, some h/x pipe and the tips i guess. :[can someone tell me in better terms than i describe and if i missed anything?
on the side of the engine you have an exhaust manifold with a pipe coming out from the piston ports. Usually four ports blend into one pipe and on a V-8 eight ports blend into two pipes which come under the car to one or two(depending on how many exhaust pipes) catalytic converters that aid in environmental cleanup of the fumes. From there extension pipes lead to the muffler(s) and then another extension goes out the back or side of the vehicle; often times to a tuned exhaust tip. Some racers incorporate an exhaust cutout in the system before the catalytic converter to divert the gasses to a straight pipe for higher horsepower. This is a loud, usually illegal modification but winning is everything in the streets. All this is suspended from the car by a series of U shaped bolts and nuts attached to rubber connectors and the body of the vehicle; and there are gaskets at the manifold to prevent noisy blowby at the manifold.
Q:Looking to Mod a Nissan Sentra :). Should I do the whole performance exhaust system or just do the muffler swap and exhaust tip? Just dont want it to be expensive.BQ: Will the cops make a big deal of this?
I put a Magnaflow catback exhaust system on my Sentra about 4 years ago. It actually has a bit of a deep tone to it, but it's still pretty loud. I have noticed some performance gain, but not a lot. The system was $350, which is pretty expensive, for me at least. As for the BQ: I live in California and have never been pulled over for my exhaust. So, you should have no issue.
Q:i have a 2001 Isuzu Trooper.and i went on the Magnaflow site and they dont have Isuzu as a category. I am just wondering if it is possible to put that exhaust system.or if there is any other system i can put
they may not have a custom magnaflow exhaust for your Isuzu, but a good muffler shop can set you up with an exhaust system, check around your local area, and find someone that knows what they are doing.
Q:ok so im looking for a flowmaster for my durango so while i was looking i found that you could by a flow master 40 muffler for 87 bucks but then theres the flowmaster 40 exhaust system which costs 330 its alot more expensive what does it include that the muffler doesnt? thanks.
BECAUSE OTHER COLORS CAN MESS UP UR CAR
Q:I‘m redoing my exhaust system for my 1996 Mazda MX-6.I just want to make it a straight pipe with a glass pack (to tone it) instead of muffler to make it sound loud. I like loud.Anyways there is a long resonator right after my catalytic converter. My friend says it‘s for both noise and emission control and I can‘t pass smog without it. I said it‘s just for noise control and it‘s muffling the sound of my little rice burner.I want to take it off and make my car sound like a mean lean rice burning machine, but I want it to be able to pass smog.So is it for both emission and sound control, or just sound? Is taking it off a good idea?
the resonator is not a good idea to remove. but by doing so your cars exhaust sound increase by at least 20 to 25 percent. i believe that doing a resonate delete it will not pass the smog test. if you want a greater sound, or a deep low tone buy a muffler that is about a half inch to an inch bigger than your stock inlet piping and it can cost you about the same as a resonate delete.with out the loss of horsepower some of my local shops can do a delete for about 100 or a less but this quote was from a while back. if you want your muffler to be loud just dont use the silencer but be aware for the police. and a muffler installation is only about 50 dollars to 70 or so unless its a universal as those require more labor thus a little bit more money but well worth it nice brands for mufflers are vibrant. skunk2. apexi n1. magnaflow great for a 4 cylinder
Q:I am considering installing after market intake and exhaust systems on my 2000 Toyota Celica GT. However I would assume that a modern sports touring car such as mine would already be fitted with a good setup out of the factory. The 1.8L 4-cylinder engine needs all the help in can get. In other cars I could imagine there would be considerable benefits to after market parts in this are, but I am concerned that I would not see considerable performance increases. If this is the case, where could I see the best value for my money without installing a turbo, supercharger or NOS?
Please do not listen to anyone who tells you you will get 30+hp out of an intake and exhaust system on a bone stock N/A vehicle. That is a flat out lie. If you're looking for true HP the cheapest way would be to install an aftermarket camshaft with a more aggressive grind than you have currently. This WILL add HP because your valves are being lifted more and for a longer duration, thus letting more air/fuel into the engine. It will run you about the same price as an intake/exhaust system, just under $1000 but you will actually see and feel a difference in the way the car performs. It will rev harder and faster. On my 1995 Celica from a camshaft change I saw a consistent 10-15hp gain going up the RPM band starting at 2800, with a peak gain of 25hp, and a redline gain of 20hp (usually where the engine starts to run rich and is just getting flooded with fuel and the power drops off) As for the cold air intake put it this way your car most likely already has one that runs straight to the front of your bumper. so how would changing that so it now sits behind the bumper change your hp? As far as an exhaust, unless you're running a full header-back exhaust with a high-flow cat, you wont see much of a gain because there will be a choke point somewhere in the system, and if you're staying N/A you shouldn't run anything larger than about 2.25/2.5 inches. If your going turbo you run a 2.75-3 inch and larger (depending on the power you're putting out). Hope this helps. (most of the hp claims for aftermarket parts are at the crank, and not the wheels fyi, and a 30hp gain at the crank especially with something as simple as an intake/exhaust, translates into at BEST 10 wheel hp. The figures I gave you for my celica's HP gains were AT the wheels.)
Q:Flow meter calibration experiment, how to check the system exhaust is complete
In the flowmeter checkout experiment, how to check the system exhaust is completely looking at your flow device or system. There are several measures that can be used: 1) Install a transparent pipe at the corner of the horizontal and vertical pipe. Thus to direct observation. 2) Add an exhaust valve to the top of the vertical pipe. After passing the water, stop the water flow and open the exhaust valve until no gas is discharged.
Q:I currently have 2 holes in my exhaust system (1997 Ford Taurus with about 73,000 miles on it) and not the $750.00 it would cost to get them repaired (unemployed and desperately looking for work with little luck). I live in Illinois where we have to take emissions tests for our cars every few years. I‘m wondering, with these holes in the system am I gonna fail the test? Hoping for knowledgeable answers, thanks!
Yeah. Some Have a great flight!

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