Gate Valve Single Orifice with Brass Isolate Valve

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China main port
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TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
1000 set
Supply Capability:
5000 set/month

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Product Description:

1. Structure of Gate Valve Description

1. Selected materials, in line with domestic and international standards, high overall quality of the material.
2. In line with the requirements of domestic and foreign advanced standards, reliable sealing, excellent performance, attractive appearance.
3. Sealing pair advanced and reasonable, gate and seat sealing surface with different hardness Stellite (Stellite) cobalt-based alloy cladding made, reliable sealing, high hardness, wear resistance, high temperature, corrosion good anti-abrasion performance, long life.
4. Stem quenched and nitride surface treatment, has good corrosion resistance, scratch resistance and abrasion resistance.

2. Main Features of the Gate Valve:
1)Full port design
2)OS&Y Outside screw and yoke .
3)BB. Bolted Bonnet .
4)Flexible wedge, Fully guided
5)Choice of solid or split wedge .
6)Renewable seat rings
7)Forged T-head stem
8)Rising stem and non-rising handwheel

3. Images of the Gate Valve:


4. Specification of the Gate Valve: 



3.Pressure: Class150~2500

4.Design and Manufacture:API602,BS5352,ANSI B16.34

5.Test and Inspection:API598,GB/T13927,JB/T9092

6.Structure Features:

   B.B(Bolted Bonnet) and OS&Y(Outside Screw and Yoke)

   W.B(Welded Bonnet) and  OS&Y(Outside Screw and Yoke)


1. Can I get free samples?

A: Yes,we can provide you the free sample, but you need to bear their own delivery costs.

2. Can I request to change the form of packaging and transportation?

A:Yes, We can change the form of the packaging and transportation according to your request, but you have to bear their own costs incurred during this period and the spreads.

3. Can I have my own Logo on the product?

A: Yes, you can send us your drawing and we can make your logo, but you have to bear

their own the cost.

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Q:What parts are needed to fix three burnt valves?
Burnt valves or, far more likely, bent valves. Either way, you'll need to basically overhaul the top end - you'll need to replace the bad valves and the top end gasket set along with any machine work that may be necessary. Estimates will vary greatly from facility to facility and also from different areas. To get a valid estimate for your locality, you need to get local estimates.
Q:egr valve on an 89 corsica?
You have likely got a bit of carbon in the EGR that you can clean after you remove it, I usually spray some penetrating oil into the valve hold my finger over the hole that I sprayed into and turn the valve over, if it leaks the seat is dirty and cleaning the carbon out may help. also push up on the plunger several times to be sure that it doesn't stick alternate carb cleaner with penetrating oil until the valve is free and no longer leaks when inverted. As far as your question the test you described doesn't test the EGR or the EGR solenoid correctly at all. On some the car needs to be in gear to actuate the EGR, all you need to do is check that there is vacuum to the solenoid and that the EGR valve works freely. If the EGR fails to work the check engine light should be on and you can check the code to get a clue as to why.
Q:Are There Other Oils For Valves On The Trumpet Unstuck?
valve its simply the best
Q:Trumpet valve stuck upright?
on the top of the valve there is the screw that you turn to open the valve to oil it. if this screw wont turn gently tap the edges of it with the rim of your mouthpiece, and make sure that you get the entire screw cap. if this doesn't loosen it enough to remove the cap, then repeat while hitting it at an angle in the direction that it needs to turn. if this doesn't work take off the bottom cap and drip valve oil up though the bottom to drip up to the top cap and continue with the tapping process. if it still wont move, you need to take it to a shop. once the upper cap is loose, the valve still wont move, this is when you take off the bottom valve cap (if you haven't already) and fully remove a different valve that has already been oiled and push it up through the bottom of the stuck valve, this might be hard to do, and you might need to put in a lot of valve oil into the bottom to get it to move. once this valve is removed, thoroughly clean the valve casing and the valve itself, and oil both before replacing the valve. Hope this helps.
Q:setting valve lash and proper method?
Woah, woah! You didn't say exactly what 350 you have - do you have a hydraulic lifter cam in it or is it a solid lifter cam? You cannot preload a solid lifter, and doing that with the engine running ain't that good of an idea. You need to get into the ballpark of having the proper preload in the first place in order to even do the final adjustment with an engine running, anyway. Verify what kind of lifter you have before you proceed. For a newb and for a stock engine, you really can't go wrong with the method below - it includes video assistance to help with the visual. I've adjusted hydraulic lifters on a 305 the non-running way, and on a running like the previous post mentioned, for a 350 with a performance cam. Let me tell you, even with the clips, you will make a very big mess adjusting that engine running, plus you need to be painfully careful of doing something dumb, like putting your paws near the running belts - something I wouldn't expect a newbie to feel comfortable doing. Save risking your hands for when you set the timing!
Q:small block chevy hyd. valve adjustment?
that's puzzling to discover 0 clearance even as the lifters are not any more pumped up. it truly is how I actually have continuously lashed small block chevys, even with the actual undeniable actuality that it may get messy. get rid of one million valve hide, start up engine. Tighten the first rocker nut till the push rod stops spinning lower than the rocker. Then decrease backpedal a million/4-a million/2 turn. Repeat for each and each of the others. This works nicely with new valve practice factors to boot to boot used parts. the downside is oil would drip on warm headers.
Q:EGR Valve...?
if your talking about a car EGR valve, it's used for the smog system in your car...if you need help you need to specify what make and model of car you have... with a faulty EGR vale you will not pass a smog test and it will make your car run rough... go buy one at the local automotive store and locate it under your hood, they are very simple to install...
Q:Mitral valve?
Q:Is a EGR valve necessary?
It used to be a cheap fix. I haven't worked on the newer vehicles, but it used to be an F-shaped plug, with vacuum hoses, that you could replace in a few minutes. Price was under $20. The biggest problem, then, was decoding the codes! I just looked it up and it seems to be pretty simple, and similar to what I worked on. A small diaphragm valve that runs about $50. Ford would probably charge you $300 for the part and another $100 or so to put it on. The EGR valve helps with exhaust and, to some degree, gas mileage. In other words, if you live in a state with strict rules about emissions, you may fail the test. In proper condition, you may notice a little better fuel mileage. Of course, when I drove a sports car, I noticed that a good waxing helped my mileage. LOL I doubt that the Flomaster would cause a problem. This is a sensor issue that is, or should be, directly related to the EGR valve itself. Of course, I haven't worked on vehicles for years, so... Google this and see what you think. Location should give you some pictures to show where it should be on your Mustang and then you can see if you think you can do it. Then, check the prices. If your state is a pain, fixing it is probably cheaper than failing the emissions test. Besides, the more work you can do yourself, the cheaper it is. The only real difference between you and the guys who work in the dealership is a degree (piece of paper) and a fancy machine. You can do the same things they do.
Q:Biological or mechanical heart valve replacements...?
Well one of the draw backs to a mechancial valve would be that your friend would have to be on blood thinners for life. Biological, you would worry about rejection. But, you would worry about rejection with the mechanical also. Depends on what type of after care he/she is willing to put up with. I would probably choose the mechanical.

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