• Galvanized Iron Wire/Galvanized Binding Wire Hot Dipped and Electro Galvanized System 1
  • Galvanized Iron Wire/Galvanized Binding Wire Hot Dipped and Electro Galvanized System 2
  • Galvanized Iron Wire/Galvanized Binding Wire Hot Dipped and Electro Galvanized System 3
Galvanized Iron Wire/Galvanized Binding Wire Hot Dipped and Electro Galvanized

Galvanized Iron Wire/Galvanized Binding Wire Hot Dipped and Electro Galvanized

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 m.t.
Supply Capability:
30000 m.t./month

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1.Structure of Galvanized Iron Wire Descrildn

Galvanized iron wire is made with mild steel , hard-drawn , then galvanized . It is rust-resistant , and very versatile in applications . Galvanized iron wire can be supplied in the form of coil wire , spool wire or further processed into straightened cut wire or U type wire .

Applications of Galvanized Iron Wire : Galvanized iron wire is mainly used in construction as binding wire , express way fencing as fencing wire , binding of flowers as wire ties in the garden and yard , and wire mesh making as weaving wires

Galvanized wire in coil 

type : electro galvanized wire and hot dipped galvanized wire 

wire diameter : 0.7mm-4.5mm

tensile strength : 350-550N

zinc coated : 8-15g/m2 ( electro galvanized wire )

                   40-60g/m2 ( hot dipped galvanized wire )

coil weight : 8kg/coil , 25kg/coil , 50kg/coil , 100kg/coil , 500kg/coil

 packing : inside plastic bag , outside woven bag

                inside plastic bag , outside hessian bag

 

2.Main Features of Galvanized Iron Wire

• Antirust

• Shiny silvery color

• High strength

• Durable

• Versatile

• Good visual effect

 

3. Galvanized Iron Wire Images

Galvanized Iron Wire/Galvanized Binding Wire Hot Dipped and Electro Galvanized

Galvanized Iron Wire/Galvanized Binding Wire Hot Dipped and Electro Galvanized

Galvanized Iron Wire/Galvanized Binding Wire Hot Dipped and Electro Galvanized


4. Galvanized Iron Wire Specification

Galvanized   Iron Wire

Wire   Gauge

SWG(mm)

BWG(mm)

Metric(mm)

8

4.05

4.19

4.00

9

3.66

3.76

4.00

10

3.25

3.40

3.50

11

2.95

3.05

3.00

12

2.64

2.77

2.80

13

2.34

2.41

2.50

14

2.03

2.11

2.50

15

1.83

1.83

1.80

16

1.63

1.65

1.65

17

1.42

1.47

1.40

 

5.FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clientsmay help you sincerely

①How about your products?

‍One of the most biggest manufacturer & supplier of wires and wire mesh,is a large-scale professional Galvanized Iron Wire factory in China. Annually more than 10000 tons wires and wire mesh are exported to markets all over the world.Different kinds of wires and mesh are available according to customer’s requirements.‍

 

②How to guarantee the quality of the products?

We have established the international advanced quality management system,every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test;Our company has good marketing network and abundant operation experience. Galvanized Iron Wire are sold to all parts of the country, at the same time, exported to Southeast Asia,The management theory is based on sincerity, keeping forging ahead. We have accumulated a whole set of marketing experience, having already become a local leader engaged in steel products.

 

③Can we get samples?

Free sample will be sent to you within 3-7 days after confirm our price . We have strong cooperation with DHL,TNT,UPS,FEDEX,EMS .

Q:I have two white wires left...one is a speaker wire and the other is the constant 12v wire and I don't know which is which. They are the same thickness so unless one of you guys know I'm pretty much screwed here. Also, I have a black ground wire sticking out of the wiring harness and the ground wire from my stereo harness doesn't look like they should attach to each other. This is my first install and I've got everything else hooked up. Just need some pointers.
1997 Geo Tracker Car Stereo Wiring Diagram Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: White Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: White/Black Car Radio Ground Wire: Black Car Radio Illumination Wire: Red/Yellow Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Red/Green Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Black/Blue Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Red Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Green/Black Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Gray Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray/Black what you need is a multi meter or something to test for current you could get a 12v light bulb hook to ground then try each white wire on a 12 light buld the end two meral contacts seperated by a small plastic area ground from tracker to one metal area positive or white to the other metal area dont let the wires touch which ever white wire cause light to go on is 12v you may have to have key turned over for power to flow
Q:I currently have a ceiling fan wired to a dimmer wall switch that controls the fan and the light, not good I know. I would like to set up the dimmer switch where it controls the light only and then i can use the fan pull switch for the fan. but i am not sure how to wire this with my current wires. In the wall box where the dimmer switch is I have two sets of wires coming from two different locations. one set has a black, red, white, and green. the other location has black, white and copper. currently the green and copper are connected and capped, the two whites are connected together and capped, two blacks are and connected to the black wire coming from the dimmer and the red is connected to the other black wire from the dimmer. how would I wire the dimmer switch to only control the light and not the fan? I want to make sure i do this safely.any assistance is greatly appreciated.
enable me initiate out by making use of asserting that the cord's popping out of the ceiling bypass like this, Black cord is alway the warm cord the White cord is often the common floor cord the bare cord is the earth floor cord. if there's a purple cord popping out of the ceiling it is so which you would be able to turn the mild off at extra then one change . i'm uncertain what a hunter fan is ,yet what ever you do do no longer hook the black (warm) cord with the WHITE (floor) cord, in case you probably did try this ,you will could reset your breaker , it form of seems such as you may have 2 purple cord popping out of the ceiling , in case you do you may hook them to the Black / White cord, it is so which you would be able to paintings the mild from the two change.
Q:well i've been asking for quite sometime on the correct wiring of a bathroom fan up to the same circuit as my light in the bathroom but i believe i've figured out. but i have a question now about the wire guage.the wire guage in the house is the standard solid 12 or 14 i think(house built in 50's) and the the wire that came with the bathroom fan looks a little smaller or about same size but it's braided .it should be fine to splice the two right?
It will be fine to wire nut them on there.
Q:Me and a buddy took the 305 out of the car. I have a 350 to take its place, but was wondering what are the only wires i need to have a clean engine bay. the old engine has a million wires hooking up to everything. Some muscle cars only have spark plug wires, the starter wire and battery cable. What must i do to get mine like that? i dont care about emissions. what must i change or add to the new engine?
I have an '84 Monte SS and wanted the same thing. Here's what I have: the 2 wires that come from the harness and go to the starter (1 Positive, 1 S terminal), oil gauge wire, temp gauge wire, the alternator wires, the wire going to the distributor cap, and the tach gauge wire going to the distributor cap. That's pretty much it, as well as your battery cables, and spark plug wires. You really don't need to do or add anything as long as it runs and everything works that needs to work, it'll be fine. I'm going by memory, so if I forgot something I apologize, but that's the best of my recollection right now. If you have anymore questions you can email me.
Q:trying to find the radio wiring diagram for my suburban to find out where all my speaker wires are .
1994 Chevrolet Suburban Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Orange Radio Ignition Switched 12V+ Wire: Yellow Radio Ground Wire: Black Radio Illumination Wire: Gray Radio Dimmer Wire: Brown Radio Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A Radio Amplifier Trigger Wire: N/A Front Speakers Size: 6 1/2″ Speakers Front Speakers Location: Doors Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Tan Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Gray Right Front Speaker Wire (+): Light Green Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Dark Green Rear Speakers Size: 6 1/2″ Speakers Rear Speakers Location: Rear Doors Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Brown Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Yellow Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Dark Blue Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): Light Blue
Q:Does Frost Wire have virus
Well, Frost Wire is basically the same thing as Limewire, a public file sharing program. Since it's public file sharing, i'm going to say that even though they say that Frost Wire is 100% safe, it's never 100% on the internet. So there is a possibility that it contains viruses.
Q:If you hang a pot-plant with mass of 8kg from two lengths of wire attached to a horizontal beam 100cm apart. The wire on the left has a length of 50cm and the wire on the right has a length of 75cm.What is the tension in both wires?
The tension in both wires.? If you hang a pot-plant with mass of 8kg from two lengths of wire attached to a horizontal beam 100cm apart. The wire on the left has a length of 50cm and the wire on the right has a length of 75cm. What is the tension in both wires? In the triangle ABC, AB(c) = 100 cm, BC (a) = 50 cm and AC (b) = 75 cm 2s = a+b+c = 225 cm s = 112.5 s-a = 112.5 - 50 = 62.5 s-b = 112.5 - 75 = 37.5 s-c = 112.5 - 100 = 12.5 tan A/2 = √ {(s-b)*(s-c) / [s*(s-a)] = √ {37.5*12.5) / [112.5*62.5] A = 28.95? tan B/2 = √ {(s-c)*(s-a) / [s*(s-b)] = √ {12.5*62.5) / [112.5*37.5] B = 46.57? C = 180-28.95-46.57 =104.48? --------------------------------------... 46.57? is the angle between horizontal and 50 cm wire. 28.95 is he angle between horizontal and 100 cm P is the tension in the 50 cm wire and Q is the tension in the 75 cm wire Equating the horizontal components of the tensions P cos 46.57? = Q cos 28.95 ? P = Q cos 28.95 ?/ cos 46.57? P = 1.27 Q-------------------1 Equating the sum of the vertical components of the tensions to the weight of the pot P sin 46.57? + Q sin 28.95 = 8*9.8 N 0.73P + 0.48 Q = 78.4N 0.73(1.27 Q) + 0.48 Q = 78.4N Q = 55.72 N and P = 70.76 N ============================= Or use Lamis theorm Angle between P and Q = 104.48? Angle between P and the pot = 90 + 46.57? Angle between Q and the pot = 90 + 28.95 By Lamis theorm P/ cos 46.57? = 78.4/ sin 104.48? P = 55.67 N and Q = (78.4/ sin 104.48? ) cos28.95 = 70.85N ====================================
Q:just need how u think it would be wired for like the whole circuite thingy
The hot wire terminal will have a brass colored terminal screw and the neutral wire terminal will have a silver colored screw. Be sure to connect the ground wire (if a terminal exists) to the terminal with a green screw.
Q:I no longer have enough 0 gauge wire would it be bad to use 0 gauge power wire to the amp and 4 gauge wire to ground the amp?
Don't do it you will get allectorcutted.
Q:Whenever I'm making jewelry, I typically wind up using crimp beads (with toggle closures, in most cases). Whenever I cut off the beading wire at the end, after enclosing the crimp bead around it, there's always this itsy bitsy part of the wire that irritates me to no end when I wear the jewelry. It seems that I can only cut the wire so much before I wind up snipping at the crimp bead. How can I remedy the irritation fact of the left-over wire?Maybe put glue on the wire piece and let it dry? Idk. Grr.
Here is the way to get rid of the scratchy wire: Take the wire on through the crimp bead and thread it down into the beads, and then crimp the wire. If you have a little wire sticking out there on down between the beads, just bend back the beads, and clip it with your jewelry wire cutters that have a side edge. Be sure and cut your wire with a couple inches to spare so you have enough wire to attach the clasp and thread the wire down. I was having trouble with the crimp bead scratching, no matter how I crimped it. I found out that they sell a crimp cover. It looks like an open clam shell, and you just slip it over the crimp bead, and close it with pliers. Beware, there is something called a clam shell, but it has a eye on it, it is for non-metal stringing materials. Another thing I found was a little tiny horseshoe called a guide. It goes above the crimp bead, and holds the clasp. It protects the wire from the wear and tear of the clasp. And it is so easy to pull the wire through it once it is on, you can adjust the length of the wire over and over. I was literally stuffing the wire down into the beads with a pliers. No more! Just pull on the end, and down the wire goes. No more ugly lengths of wire between the beads and the crimp bead. I found both these items in gold and silver colors, at Michaels, and Craft etc on line, and on other online sites. So, save the glue for working with elastic cord and gluing a bead over the knot to hide it.

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