Q:The output part of wire plastic and part of wire broken, and the connection lost sometimes, some taps used to wrap up but the connection is still not good.How to fix it permanently?

Only try to fix it if it is on the lptop side, DON't play with A/C power unless you're qualified. If it is on the safe voltage side you could cut the wire, strip back the wires about 1cm, and twist them together, then solder the wires. Before you join them slide a small piece of heatshrink over one side of it, then after joining and soldering the wires wrap a small amount of electrical tape around the bare wires then slide the heatshrink over it all and heat it up to enclose it all, Fixed ! If you need help with it let me know. Cheers,

Q:what do i do? the wire just snapped.

i have braces and you should be able to get a hold of your orthodonist. mine has his cell phone # in case of emergency on his office voicemail. figure out what you can do as soon as possible. if its the wire in the back you should be able to get a pencil eraser and push it to wear its not poking you anymore. or the wax to put on it until you can get to your doctor. good luck sorry =

Q:I attempted to change a bathroom fan to a new one with the help of a friend. He disconnected all the wiring without paying attention to what he was doing and what was wired where. We have a set of wires coming from somewhere (I presume the fuse box) to the fan that is hot regardless of the switch being on or off. That has a black, white and naked wire in it. Then we have another wire that comes from the switch that has black, white and naked as well. The fan has black, white and green. Can someone please tell me how to connect these as we have tried everything and the only thing that works is wired to the constant hot which of course won't allow us to turn the fan off with the switch...

1) Turn off the power. 2) Install the fan completely into desired location. 3) Insert both wires into fan's junction box. 4) Twist the two bare wires together, install crimp sleeve onto them at the twist. 5) Find the green screw and connect ONE of these bare wires under it and tighten it down. 6) Cut the OTHER excess wire and fold all this connection up into the junction box. 7) Take the white wire that is coming from the (I presume the fuse box) , and connect it to the white wire that goes to the fan itself. Strip 1/2 of insulation and twist the wires together, install a wire-nut and fold this into the fan's junction box. 8) Take the black wire that comes from the switch and connect it to the black wire that goes to the fan itself. Strip 1/2 of insulation, twist the wires together, install a wire-nut and fold this into the fan's junction box. 9) All that's left is the black wire that is coming from the (I presume the fuse box) , and the white wire that comes from the switch. Strip 1/2 of insulation, twist the wires together, install a wire-nut. 10) Take a black Sharpie pen and color this connection's white wire black and fold this into the fan's junction box. This is known as a switch-leg. 11) Restore power and test. I will you with these two thoughts: 1) It is always best to hire a pro for this type of work. 2) Good luck and may God bless.

Q:ok...all the wires in my quot;atticare encased in this silver metal casing....when i opened a bathroom wall...the wires were also like that.....at the fuse box...they all leave like that........sooooo, can i assume all my wires are encased like that? does that make them pretty safe from rodents chewing? (yup-been watching Billy the Exterminator) why were they done like that? tx for any info....

That casing is called greenfield mainly used in commercial wiring. It does make the wires safe no rodent eating through that stuff. Its wire like that to protect the wiring. Feel blessed it was wired like that. That type of installation is high dollar wiring. additional info Starting in the 1920's, some wiring was manufactured in flexible metal cable. This Greenfield or BX wiring proved much better than the knob and tube wiring because it shielded the wires from damage. The armored cable on Greenfield wiring lacked a grounding wire; the metal coils of the cable provided the ground.

Q:I just bought a new JVC CD player well my dad and I are trying to hook it all up, we went to auto zone and got all the parts we need, wiring harness and faceplate kit. We got all the wires stripped and hooked to the right ones except when we plug it in there is no sound CD player works just no sound. There is an extra little clip that has 4 extra wires that need to be hooked up and we KNOW that's what the problem is. If anyone knows where these wires belong please let me know or if you know where i can get a FREE wiring diagram that would be great!! Thank you!!

If one of the 4 wires is pink, connect it to the blue/white wire from the JVC head unit and see if that helps. (The blue wire in the main harness should also be connected to the blue/white JVC wire).

Q:The wire is to the box

Black wire= hot goes to the the black screw. White wire = neutral goes to the other side. Looking from the plug side, the hot/black wire is the smaller slot The larger slot is the neutral.

Q:How do I wire MULTIPLE ones? I checked many sites and yes, I do get schematics, I've seen a billion schematics, but now I don't know how to actually put it together.My big question is, can I just solder two wires running from my 5V + terminal like that? Would there be problems?So if I have a 5V battery.

You can do this a number of ways. All of the postive terminals must be connected in some way and all of the commons must be connected in some way. This doesn't mean you have to connect each positive to every other postive, and likewise for the common. You have a few options: You can solder two wires to the positive terminal of the battery and run one wire to each load (device). You can solder one wire to the positive terminal of the battery, run this wire to the first load (device), solder another wire to the first load (device), connect this wire to the second load(device). You can solder one wire to the positive terminal to the battery, run this wire to the second load, solder an additional wire to the second load, and run the second wire to the first load. In industry, power wires are typically jumped from one device to the next to delivery power to each device that needs it. Basically, your power needs to go to each one. How you connect them is up to you.

Q:Replacing my 3 prong dryer outlet but there is a blk, red, wht, and a bare wire in the box. I know where the colored ones go on the outlet but what do I do with the bare one? I didn't remove the old one so I don't know how the old 3 prong outlet was wired with these wires. Thanks.

Dryer Plug Wiring

Q:let me start off with I am not an electrician I just do basic stuff for side work I came in the project at the end. The lady wanted me to wire in 6 receptacles, a light switch and light fixture all on one circuit. everything is good except for the receptacle at the start of the circuit it has the lead/ hot coming in the power to the other receptacles going out and the power to the light going out (3 groups, 9 wires total). normally I would have used a junction box but I didn't pull the wire. How can I wire this. Would a 15 amp receptacle work?

A 15 Amp receptacle will work, of course, but the receptacle box is most likely already overfilled. So in order to keep the wire count down, your best way to go is to buy a receptacle that uses screw down connector tabs. (NOT the kind that you have to put the wire under the screw, but the kind that you insert the wire into the back and then turn the screw down to clamp onto it!) The receptacle is a little more money but it would be worth the expense to make this hook up work. Hot wire (Black): Connect all three black wires to the back of the receptacle on the brass colored screws. Common wire (White): Connect all three white wires to the back of the receptacle on the silver colored screw. Ground: make a short pigtail of bare copper wire (about 6 or 7 inches long). Then connect the pigtail to the other 3 bare copper ground wires using a wire nut. Then connect the other end of the pigtail to the grounding connection of the receptacle. MAKE SURE THE POWER IS OFF WHEN YOU DO ALL OF THIS SO THAT YOU CAN LIVE TO TELL THE TALE! :-)

Q:If you were to hot wire your car and didn't have the manual to consult the color code, what would be some ways to identify which wires are {power} and {starter}? If you were to cut all wire pairs and attempt different combinations, would that result in imminent failure? (knowing the different pairs correspond to different key positions)

The okorder /