• Prefabricated construction material steel fiber System 1
  • Prefabricated construction material steel fiber System 2
Prefabricated construction material steel fiber

Prefabricated construction material steel fiber

Ref Price:
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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 m.t.
Supply Capability:
10000 m.t./month

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Quick Details

  • Place of Origin: Tianjin, China (Mainland)

  • Model Number: 0.55
  • Material: Steel

  • Production Process: Cold drawn

  • Fiber Lengh: 35

  • Type: 1

  • Compressive Strength: >1200MPa

  • Aspect ratio: 63

  • Standard: ASTM A820M-11

  • Section Shape: Circular

  • Application: Concrete Reinforcement

  • Product Application: Industrial Floor

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:20 kg/Bag,50 bags/Pallet or 1,000kg/ Bulk Bag
Delivery Detail:1 Month

Specifications

1.Deformed cold-drawn wire,Hooked-end
2.Aspect ratio:60-80
3.Tensile:1200Mpa
4.Diameter:0.5-0.9mm
5.Length:30-60mm

 

Product Description

Diameter0.55 mm  (0.217 in)
Length35 mm  (13.780 in)
Aspect Ratio63
Tensile strength1200 MPa
TypeCold drawn Steel Fiber
EndHooked-end Steel Fiber
Glued/LooseGlued Steel Fiber
Bending Angle45°(min.30°)
Usage & PerformanceFloor:Trafficked areas and Industrial floors 
Shotcrete :Slope stabilization and Final lining
Precast concrete:Pipe and Railway sleepers
PackingStandard Export Pallet PackingBag Packing20 kg/Bag,50 bags/Pallet
Bulk Packing1,000kg/ Bulk Bag
Loading Quantity20’GP20-25 Tonne/Tonnes
40’GP25-27 Tonne/Tonnes 
40’HQ25-27 Tonne/Tonnes
MOQ1 kg for trial order
Supply Ability10,000 Tonne/Tonnes per Year
Payment TermsT/T or L/C at sight
Delivery TimeWithin 15 days after receiving deposit or original L/C at sight
CertificationISO9001:2000, CE,

ProductDiameterLength
mm/in
Aspect RatioTypePacking
G-60300.5 mm
 (0.197 in)
30 mm
(11.811 in)
60Glued20 kg/Bag, or 1,000kg/ Bulk Bag
G-65350.55 mm
(0.217 in)
35 mm
(13.780 in)
65Glued20 kg/Bag, or 1,000kg/ Bulk Bag
G-60350.6 mm
(0.236 in)
35 mm
(13.780 in)
60Glued20 kg/Bag, or 1,000kg/ Bulk Bag
G-80600.75 mm
(0.295 in)
60 mm
(23.622 in)
80Glued20 kg/Bag, 50 bags/Pallet
G-60600.9 mm
(0.354 in)
60 mm
(23.622 in)
60Glued20 kg/Bag, 50 bags/Pallet
G-60300.5 mm
 (0.197 in)
30 mm
(11.811 in)
60Loose20 kg/Bag, or 1,000kg/ Bulk Bag
G-65350.55 mm
(0.217 in)
35 mm
(13.780 in)
65Loose20 kg/Bag, or 1,000kg/ Bulk Bag
G-60350.6 mm
(0.236 in)
35 mm
(13.780 in)
60Loose20 kg/Bag, or 1,000kg/ Bulk Bag
G-80600.75 mm
(0.295 in)
60 mm
(23.622 in)
80Loose20 kg/Bag, 50 bags/Pallet
G-60600.9 mm
(0.354 in)
60 mm
(23.622 in)
60Loose20 kg/Bag, 50 bags/Pallet

Q:first wire change
Depends on how many little kinks he's putting in it. Also depends on how fast he works, if your wire needs a lot of work or a little, and if he already has an idea of what he wants to do or if he's just guessing along the way. It shouldn't take longer for him to make the actual kinks than it does the remove and replace the wire. That's a little more labor intensive and can take about 5-10 minutes for each wire. The whole thing, uninterrupted might last 30-45 minutes.
Q:So basically my i have a ps3 wired controller but the problem is the wire any jerks or movement at all and it will shut off and i have to repeatedly press the home button to turn it on i am 100% sure its the wire any ideas on how to fix this problem?
It sounds like the wire is loose. To fix this, you'll have to open up the controller and reattach/secure it. If the wire is exposed and is frayed, you'll probably have to get a new controller. This is very broad because you didn't specify the model of the controller. Some of the wired controllers use the normal Ps3-USB wire, while others do not. So, trying opening it up and securing the wire. If you're lucky and it's a Ps3-USB wire, replace it with a new wire. Otherwise, you'll have to get a new controller if you can't fix it.
Q:Where can I purchase small wire of a large quantity that is similar to wire on cellular phone chargers?The wire im looking for needs to handle no mare than 12 volts.
Look okorder /
Q:I have an old house and am replacing a dimmer switch in the kitchen.The old switch is has only 2 wires coming out of the switch that are both black. From the wall 2 wires connect to the 2 black wires on the switch, one is black which I have concluded is hot and the other is red, which must be the common wire. My question is that there is a 3rd wired that is pushed into the electrical box that is capped and not being used. This wire is white. I can only assume that would be a ground wire, but why would it be white in color. Can you tell me what the coloring scheme was for wiring old houses? Now I can connect the switch and use only the black and red wire, but would like to ground it properly if possible.
To begin with, don't worry about the white wires tied together in the back of the switch box, that's normal to see in a switch box (outlet boxes are a whole different ball game). The only purpose of a switch (regular or dimmer) is to control the hot (black) side of the circuit that powers the light (or fan or whatever it is). To simplify this for you, just connect one black wire from the switch to the black wire in the box and the other black wire from the switch to the red wire in the box. That will make the connection and your light will work on the dimmer. If there is a green wire on the dimmer switch, connect that to the bare copper wire inside the box. If no green wire, then just screwing the switch to the box will ground it assuming it's a metal box. The metal box should already be properly grounded, you might see a bare copper wire screwed around a terminal inside the box. If the white wire is by itself (or tied in with other white wires) with a wire nut (cap) on it, don't worry about it and don't let it confuse you, it's just an extra wire that's not needed for the switch to work. The only case of where you'll see a white wire connected to a switch is if 14-2 wire was used instead of 14-3 wire (like in your case). 14-2 has a black, white, and bare copper wire. 14-3 has a black, red, white, and bare copper wire. The 14 just means the gauge (thickness) of the wire. And to confuse you even more, another case of seeing a red wire connected to a switch is if the circuit is a 3-way circuit whereas there are 2 or more switches controlling the same light. In your case though, I'm assuming this dimmer switch is the *only* switch controlling your light given your description. Keep in mind, YouTube is a great source for tutorials on doing electrical work if you need it. Just remember to kill the power to the circuit you're working on. Anyway, hope this helps, and good luck.
Q:Im currently running 8 gauge power wire from my battery to my amp which is a hifonics zxi8408 i have it bridged to 2 channels so its pushing 440 watts x2 to 2 alpine type Rs. The current speaker wire im running is 16 gauge.My question is...since im going to go down to 4 gauge power wire, should I lower the speaker wire and get 12 gauge speaker wire also? What will sound the best?
recommended okorder /
Q:the wires are all cut off. which 2 do i connect and which is which and what is what?
i have a 1989 ford escort the wiring for all is the same red is hot black is ground maybe with a white stripe
Q:This is the typical Physics problem with the wire and boom connected to a wall with a mass hanging on the end of the wire.Does the tension in the wire increase or decrease when the wire is connected higher on the wall (meaning the angle between the wire and the boom increases).
Assuming the boom is free to pivot at the wall, and a massless wire, the tension in the wire decreases as the attachment point is moved further up the wall away from the boom. There is a constant vertical force (the weight of the boom and the mass attached to its end) that is a constant component of the tension in the wire. The tension must increase to maintain this constant upward force as the wire approaches the pivot point, because the vertical component of tension is the tension multiplied by the sine of the angle between the wire and the boom. As the angle approaches zero, the tension required to support the boom approaches infinity. Conversely, as you move the end of the wire higher up on the wall, the tension decreases, approaching the combined weight of the boom and the suspended mass as the wire approaches being parallel with the wall. So imagine a sign attached to the side of a skyscraper at street level supported by a wire extending to the top of the building. There will be almost no horizontal component to the tension in the wire and the vertical component will just be the sum of the weight of the wire, the boom, and the attached mass.
Q:Hello, I have a 4 year old Trane XR12 unit. Recently the compressor fan is noisy, and now stops when when under power after 5-10 min. The main fuses and breakers are fine, the fan spins freely when turned, the contactor pulls in fine, the dual capacitor checks out. But, the wiring of the capacitor does not match wire diagrams. Could this have caused the fan motor to prematurely fail?..............................Terminal: C red wire, FAN brown wire, HERM has both orange and purple. Schematic shows the purple wire should be with red wire on common C. The purple also leads to fan.
Hi, I looked at the schematic on-line. If you still have the original fan motor in the unit then you are correct. The center terminal on the capacitor should have the red wire from the T1 terminal of the contactor, the red wire from the compressor, and the purple wire from the fan. The FAN terminal should have the brown wire from the fan. The HERM terminal should have the orange wire from the compressor. The black wire from the fan and the black/blue wire from the compressor should lead back to the T2 terminal of the contactor. Again, that is if the motor is the original motor. If it was replaced at some point in time, the wiring colors can change from manufacturer to manufacturer, in which case it's possible that the new motor is wired correctly. There should be a diagram on the motor to show you the correct wiring configuration.
Q:I need to buy more of the speaker wire my Yamaha system came with. Its very very thin almost clear wire. What is it called and where can i get it?
A ordinary websearch ability that the 4066 is a type no longer bought interior the U. S.. One website that had it quotes in Euros, and yet another became into in New Zealand. finding on the returned panel of the old 071, it appears that evidently it extremely is subwoofer linked to it using the comparable type of speaker wires that the different audio equipment use. yet, maximum separate receivers do no longer use that type of subwoofer connection. It additionally feels like the 071's sub is a passive sub, mutually as maximum receivers require the sub to be a powered type. So, it extremely is not going which you would be waiting to apply the 071's sub on a greater constructive receiver. The 4065 won't have the capacity to run a speaker cord linked subwoofer. specific, the Yamaha is a far greater constructive receiver. It only is smart that a receiver that expenses better than a receiver with six (inexpensive) audio equipment equipment could be the greater constructive type. The 4065 is a much better type than the 375, for this reason it expenses greater. Loudness is a mix of the means (including sparkling, no longer distorted means) of a receiver, *plus* the standard and sensitivity of the audio equipment. whilst going to be a greater constructive receiver, you will possibly no longer get plenty make the main of it till you apart from mght develop your audio equipment. it extremely is comparable to having an old tube television, and shifting from DVD to BluRay; on the old television, there'll never be plenty distinction seen, by way of bounds on the old television.

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