• Galvanized Concertina Razor Wire for Protection System 1
  • Galvanized Concertina Razor Wire for Protection System 2
  • Galvanized Concertina Razor Wire for Protection System 3
Galvanized Concertina Razor Wire for Protection

Galvanized Concertina Razor Wire for Protection

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
5 m.t.
Supply Capability:
5000 m.t./month

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Specification

Material:
Stainless Steel Wire,Galvanized Iron Wire
Cross Sectional Shape:
Round
Application:
Protectiong Mesh,Fence Mesh
Type:
Steel Coll,Galvanized
Wild in Width:
1.1M
Surface Treatment:
galvanized
Metal Wire Drawing:
Cold Drawing
Status:
Hard State
Thickness:
Metal Thick Wire
Galvanized Technique:
Hot Dipped Galvanized,Electro Galvanized

Galvanized Concertina Razor Wire for Protection

 
  Razor wire is a kind of modern security fencing materials fabricated with razor-sharp steel blade and hightensile wire. Barbed Tape can be installed to achieve the result of frightening and stopping to the aggressive perimeter intruders, with piecing and cutting razor blades mounted at the top of the wall, also the special designs making climbing and touching extremely difficult. The wire and strip are galvanized to prevent corrosion.

Specifications:
Galvanized Concertina Razor Wire for Protection

Application
Razor wire fencing applications in industry, agriculture, science and technology, national defense, aviation, aerospace, printing, printing and dyeing, electronics, mining, pharmaceutical, food, food processing, chemical industry.

Galvanized Concertina Razor Wire for Protection

Packing:

1) waterproof paper inside,and plastic cloth outside
2)compression rolls
3)in cartons 
4)as customer request

Galvanized Concertina Razor Wire for Protection

Our Services
Product Quality
The quality of products is the key of enterprise survival.
From raw material to the transport there will be the right person in charge of them
 Reasonable Price
After clients receive the quotation,we will show you the rationality of the price and the difference between our products and other manufacturer's products.

Galvanized Razor Barbed Wire Specification(mm)

Types

Thickness

Wire Dia.

Barb Length 

Barb Width

Barb Spacing

BTO-10

0.5±0.05 

2.5±0.1 

10±1 

13±1 

26±1 

BTO-12

0.5±0.05 

2.5±0.1 

12±1 

15±1 

26±1 

BTO-18

0.5±0.05 

2.5±0.1 

18±1 

15±1 

33±1 

BTO-22 

0.5±0.05 

2.5±0.1 

22±1 

15±1 

34±1 

BTO-28

0.5±0.05

2.5

28

15

45±1

BTO-30

0.5±0.05

2.5

30

18

45±1

CBT-60

0.6±0.05 

2.5±0.1

60±2 

32±1 

100±2 

CBT-65

0.6±0.05 

2.5±0.1

65±2 

21±1 

100±2 

 


Outside Diameter

No. of Loops

Standard Length per Coil

Type

Notes

450mm

33

8M

CBT-65

Single coil

500mm

41

10M

CBT-65

Single coil

700mm

41

10M

CBT-65

Single coil

960mm

53

13M

CBT-65

Single coil

500mm

102

16M

BTO-10.15.22

Cross type

600mm

86

14M

BTO-10.15.22

Cross type

700mm

72

12M

BTO-10.15.22

Cross type

800mm

64

10M

BTO-10.15.22

Cross type

960mm

52

9M

BTO-10.15.22

Cross type



Q: hello,i have lots of 8 gauge wire resting at my closet. And i'm very interested on doing the big 3 upgrade to my 2000 mitsubishi eclipse gt. May i see any improvement with 8 gauge wire?...i know that at least 4 gauge is recommended...but i dont want to spend money.
4 gauge? LOL Go big or go home. 1/0 gauge or it didn't happen.
Q: what is the yellow wire, what is the grey wire, and the black
Car Radio Constant 12v+ Wire: Orange Car Radio Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow Car Radio Ground Wire: Black Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: N/A Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A Front Speakers Size: N/A Front Speakers Location: N/A Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green Rear Speakers Size: N/A Rear Speakers Location: N/A Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue
Q: The drawing shows two long, straight wires that are suspended from the ceiling. The mass per unit of length of each wire is 0.050kg/m. Each of the four strings suspending the wires has a length of 1.2m. When the wires carry identical currents in opposite directions, the angel between the strings holding the two wires is 15 degrees. What is the current in each wire?? Im not sure what equations to use for this problem.
You need two basic equation: 1° Force acting on conductor in magnetic field: F = B I λ ..........(1) where B is magnetic field (also called magnetic induction) I is current λ is length of wire 2° Magnetic field near straight wire carrying current I B = μo I / (2πd) ..........(2) where d is distance from the wire μo is the magnetic permeability constant of vacuum (approx. same for air) μo= 4π*10^-7 Tm/A When there are two parallel wires on distance d carrying currents I1 and I2, each of them produce magnetic field causing forces acting on wires. Magnetic field from second wire creates force on first wire: F1 = B2 * I1 * λ Magnetic field from first wire creates force on second wire: F2 = B1 * I2 * λ These forces are equal in magnitude: F = μo I1 I2 λ / (2πd) ..........(3) When currents flow in same direction forces are attractive, and for opposite direction forces are repulsive. When I1=I2, F = μo I? λ / (2πd) ..........(4) Each wire, suspended on strings, decline from vertical position for angle θ=15°/2 = 7.5°, so that the angle between the strings holding the two wires is 2θ=15°. We find F from condition of static equilibrium of torques (relative to point where strings are attached to ceiling): F L cos θ = G L sin θ ..........(5) where G is weight of wire; G = m'gλ where m' is the mass per unit of length of each wire. L is length of strings from (5) we get relation F = G tan θ ..........(6) or F = m' g λ tan θ ..........(7) and from (4) and (7) : μo I? λ / (2πd) = m' g λ tan θ ..........(8) λ on both sides cancels, and we find current I as I = √(2 π d m' g tan θ / μo) ..........(9) You didn't say if there was some initial distance between wires, so we'll assume they are suspended in same points. In that case d = 2L sinθ ..........(10) and finally I = 2 √(π L m' g sinθ tan θ / μo) ..........(11) I = √[1.2 * 0.05 * 9.81 * sin 7.5° * tan 7.5° / 10^-7 ] I = 318.034 A
Q: I have a 1989 Nissan 240sx. Somehow the fan caught a hold of the wiring harness and tore all the wires. any idea how much it's going to cost?
Buying a wiring harness will be prohibitive, and even transplanting one from a wrecking yard can be expensive. The harness can be repaired by splicing in pieces of wire where wire is missing and splicing together damaged pieces of wire. It is tedious but not particularly time consuming - I spliced in a section of harness after an engine fire in about 2 hours, working slowly.
Q: me and my friend were doing a circuit challenge and we did the same circuit but she used thicker wires. does it make a difference?
Thicker wires = larger path for electrons to flow through. If the wire was thin, not as many electrons go through it. But a bigger wire means the electrons flow faster and the overall system receives and gives off energy faster.
Q: Can your use the power wire that they sell at home depo to do the big three upgrade or is it better to just get wire from a car audio store?
yup you can use any wire as long as it can handle the amps to calculate take the watts of the amp divide it by the voltage which will be 12 and that will tell you how many amps your wire may need to handle i would double the amps in the end to be safe and if you want to upgrade your system think about even heavier wire the bigger the better
Q: the sensor part has 4 wires,(2 white,1 black and 1 red)each light has 1bl.and 1white
If all else fails read the directions! Please read the directions that came with the motion sensor/outdoor light. They should have a color code in them somewhere that tells you what each color is and what it should be wired too. If you have any doubts hire a licensed qualified electrician to do it for you. You would be much better off if you don't think you are capable of doing it. If you do think you are capable make sure you turn off the breaker in the breaker box. (Not the light switch on the wall)
Q: so there are 3 different wires coming into the switch. 1 black wire and 2 white wires going to the attic fan (i assume one for high and one for low). the power seems to be coming from the black wire which has inside of it, one white wire (neutral) one black wire (hot) and one bare wire (ground).. the same for the 2 white wires. the switch goes up (^) for high and down (v) for low and has 3 places to attach the wires to. the top, the bottom and the middle.. can someone tell me how to wire this damn thing?
I think you are describing NM cables(Romex). What you have is: 1 black romex with a hot(black) a neutral(white) and a bare ground. and 2 white romexs with a black, white, bare each. right so far? What you probably have is the hot and neutral going to the switch j-box (black romex) and the 2 white romexs go from the switch to the fan j-box. I think I need more info. Do you have a test meter? Are you sure the black romex is the Hot and Neutral? When the wires are disconnected are there other things that don't have power to them? Did you undo the neutral splice? If you could send this info I think I can walk you thru it.
Q: When wiring an aftermarket car stereo, do you always match color to like color? Also do you have to use every wire from the wire harness?
Assuming the head unit follows the standard color code (there are some cheap Chinese import units that don't) then you should match the head unit wire colors to the harness wire colors. There are a few extra rules, though: -If the harness has a blue wire, and the head unit only has blue/white (no blue), then the blue harness wire should be connected to the blue/white head unit wire. If the harness has a blue/white AND a blue wire, then both of them should be connected to the head unit's blue/white wire. Similarly, if the head unit has only a blue wire and no blue/white, then it should be connected to the blue and the blue/white wires in the harness. -Orange and orange/white can be treated as interchangeable; ie, an orange/white head unit wire can be connected to an orange harness wire, and vice-versa. (If the harness has both an orange and orange/white, though, don't combine them--just use one or the other with the head unit). -Some harnesses have a black/white wire; this can usually be combined with the black ground wire. -Brown and orange/black wires in harnesses should be taped off individually and not connected to anything. -Some harnesses don't have a black ground wire. In this case, the black wire from the head unit will need to be grounded somewhere else. There will usually be wires left over. Make sure each one is insulated so it can't cause a short or contact another wire.
Q: I noticed when looking at the wiring sticking out of the end of one of my laptop power cables (the end that enters the battery), that of the green, grey and pink cables there, the green one had snapped. However, my laptop power still works fine, so what does that green wire do exactly?? Is it dangerous to use it even with that wire snapped?
Power requires two wires, but a third wire called a ground wire is sometimes added. Usually the plug that goes into the wall has two or three prongs. If it has two prongs, no ground wire added. If it has three prongs, the ground wire is added. The ground is usually used when metal frames or cases are used. The purpose is to ground or short out the live (hot) wire should it accidentally come into contact with the metal frame, causing the circuit breaker to trip. If the ground wire was not there, it would allow a person to get shocked should they touch the metal frame.

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