• Fireclay Insulation Refractory Brick NG Types of Refractory Bricks with High Strength System 1
Fireclay Insulation Refractory Brick NG Types of Refractory Bricks with High Strength

Fireclay Insulation Refractory Brick NG Types of Refractory Bricks with High Strength

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China Main Port
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Min Order Qty:
2 Tons m.t.
Supply Capability:
5000 Tons per Month m.t./month

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Advantages of  High Strength Fireclay Insulation Refractory Brick NG Types Of Refractory Bricks

 

Light weight and low thermal conductivity allows thinner furnace walls

Maintain stable structural strength throughout ambient to maximum service temperature

Low heat storage results in rapid cooling and heating operation

Low iron and impurities to enhance reducing atmosphere

High thermal shock resistance in preventing spalling

Non standard sizes and shapes are available upon request

 

Applications of High Strength Fireclay Insulation Refractory Brick NG Types Of Refractory Bricks

Ceramic shuttle kilns

Metal heat treatment furnaces Steel billet reheating furnaces Oil refinery heaters

Laboratory furnaces

 

Max Service Temperature (°C)

 

1150

 

1200

 

1280

 

1300

 

1350

 

1400

 

Bulk Density (g/cm3)

 

0.55

 

0.6

 

0.8

 

1.0

 

1.3

 

1.5

 

Apparent Porosity %

 

80

 

70

 

60

 

55

 

50

 

40

Cold Crushing Strength

 (Mpa) ≥

 

1.5

 

2.0

 

2.5

 

3.0

 

4.0

 

6.0

Reheating Linear Change (%)   °CX 12H ≤

 

1250°C

 

-0.5

 

1300°C

 

-0.5

 

1350°C 

 

-0.5

 

1350°C

 

-0.9

 

1350°C

 

-0.9

 

1350°C

 

-0.9

 

Thermal conductivity(W/m.k) 

 

400°C

 

0.14

 

0.25

 

0.35

 

0.41

 

0.51

 

0.6

 

600°C

 

0.16

 

0.29

 

0.45

 

0.43

 

0.61

 

0.71

 

800°C

 

0.18

 

0.31

 

0.50

 

0.44

 

0.67

 

0.77

 

1000°C

 

0.20

 

0.33

 

0.60

 

0.45

 

0.8

 

0.9

 

Al2O3 (%)

 

37

 

40

 

40

 

40

 

40

 

42

 

Fe2O3 (%)

 

1.0

 

1.5

 

1.5

 

1.5

 

2

 

2

 

SiO2

 

44

 

55

 

55

 

55

 

55

 

55

 

 

Q:How much cement is left in the U.S.?
Cement is not a raw material, it's something manufactured and there are huge amounts of the raw materials (clay, limestone) that go into it.
Q:no tile in shower/bath surroundPosted by erik0619 on January 6th, 2006 07:42 AMPost Reply | Watch this PostI am renovating my bathroom. I don't want to put up new tile in the shower. Can I just use cement board and some type of paint so that the walls and the shower walls in the bath all look the same? I've already put up the cement board and taped off the seams what do I use in the seams? What type of paint or coating can take constant showering?
a high gloss high quality concrete paint, the high gloss will make it easier to clean, you need to make sure that it is completely dry before you shower in it and that the concrete is completely dry before you paint it or you will get bubbles and the paint will peel. I would use a paintable silicone for the seams.
Q:the crack is below ground level and the rain water is running a stream toward the drain. About twenty feet away is crack on basement floor
I noticed that you're stating a cement block wall. Your best bet (if you don't want to get too costly), is to purchase some hydraulic cement. You want it to be at a consistency that is a thicker putty. By doing this, you can press it into the crack firmly, and it will hold. Unfortuneately, if you're getting a lot of water, you may need to dig outside, down to the hole, and do your cement repair from the outside. Once fixed, you can treat the inner basement wall with drylock. (Water sealer).
Q:What is rubber cement and where can i get it?
such as potential of abuse as inhalants and fire. For this reason, as with any adhesive, rubber cement should be used in a well-ventilated area, and care must be taken to avoid heat sources as n-heptane and n-hexane are highly flammable. Rubber cement based on n-heptane is very popular and ubiquitous in the United States, but is generally unknown and unavailable as a consumer product in the UK and some parts of Europe, possibly due to the severe fire hazard of that formulation. A similar solvent based product called Cow Gum was common in the UK, but is no longer in production. Current solvent based options include Marabu-Fixogum and Platignum Studio Gum which are marketed in the UK and Europe. Copydex, a common latex adhesive in the UK, uses an ammonia and water solvent and needs no special handling, making it very child-friendly. While for this reason it is often given to children, it is also used in artwork, and finds widespread use in light D.I.Y. work such as fixing carpet tiles and repairing upholstery
Q:Cement is normally made of Calcium aluminate which are from Limestone and Bauxite. The active ingredients are mono-calcium aluminate (CaAl2O4) and mayenite (Ca12Al14O33).
Strength forms by hydration to calcium aluminate hydrates. They are well-adapted for use in refractory (high-temperature resistant) concretes, e.g. for furnace linings. ===== Note the term hydraulic - it means water is required as a chemical reaction occurs where the ingredient molecules react with water to form hydrates. Notice that the ingredients contain no water molecules and no hydrogen atoms. And from another article : Cement sets when mixed with water by way of a complex series of chemical reactions still only partly understood. The different constituents slowly crystallise and the interlocking of their crystals gives cement its strength. So you will have to research various theories, I don't have any more information.
Q:I know they grab onto wood and trellis' but, do they need some kind of support to cover a cement wall?
It depends how intact the cement is. If it has little crevices (from being old and disintegrating) the vine might grow, but otherwise, it'd need a trellis or other support on new cement. I DO know that old, unpainted clapboards on a neglected house will make a trumpet vine go NUTS, like the one on a house I once rented, whose landlord was too drunk to do anything like painting, for over 20 years! But the rent was cheap and I enjoyed the many hummingbirds in summer.
Q:hellow I gutted my bathroom all the wall board and I put up cement backerboard and want to know what I can use on the seams I have the fiberglass mesh tape , Joint compound is for wall board grout is for tile . Cement ? plaster ? I want it waterproof hydrolic cement ?Any help With this I would really appreciate.I'am an electrician not a wall trade and i want it to be right , from the jump. Thanks g, Singh
Chicago has it pretty well stated. Use the special cement board tape if thats not what you have. And a regular thin set works fine but I always use a MODIFIED thin set, not one thats scared of you as in mortified .. lol sorry I couldn t resist, You can use a 6 putty knife or just the flat side of the sized trowel that you are doing the tile with. I do it as I go but I can tile a basic shower in 1 day. I d suggest taping it all and let the thin set dry and always check for lumps and bumps in the seams before tiling. As far as water proofing it , its not a bad idea in a well used shower. Use the Red Guard as suggested. Do this after the seams are taped and dry. That way the seams, corners and all is sealed. This is a paint on product. Use a cheap cheap brush because you ll be tossing it. Do a light coat and then let it dry (matter of minutes for the 1 st coat). Then do a 2nd light coat and let that dry 24 hrs. Any questions you can email me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q:I was told to measure sand and cement to get the right mix for 4-1, rather than by volume, how do you weigh it? And am mixing by shovel for 10cm wide by 10 metres by 8cm thick, so was told to mix it all up together at one time rather than doing it every 30 mins. I have a small plastic container to mix, what else should I use to mix on?Do i use sharp sand and cement or plasterers sand, a builder told me plasterers sand
First of all, what are you going to use the cement for? Some types of concrete such as Quickcrete don't require sand, only the addition of water.
Q:I know cement will add more value to my home, just wondering which way to go.
blacktop is cheaper, but needs to be resealed often. cement is less work later, but because it's permanent it may increase your property taxes
Q:We have been building an outdoor kitchen and subsequently purchased many different types of concrete products. I have noticed the cement, mortar, and grout are very similar products. What is the fundamental difference between these products (besides price and location)?
Cement: Grey powder. Very corrosive. Beware. Chemically reacts with water (including your skin and eys). Mortar: 1 part Cement + 3 parts Sand (usually) used for building brick structures. Concrete: cement + sand + pebbles for added strength. Grout: Usually used to fill the gaps between tiles. A fine paste that sets hard.
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1. Manufacturer Overview

Location Henan,China (Mainland)
Year Established 2007
Annual Output Value US$2.5 Million - US$5 Million
Main Markets North America; South America; Eastern Europe; Southeast Asia; Africa; Oceania; Mid East; Eastern Asia; Western Europe; Central America; Northern Europe; Southern Europe
Company Certifications business license

2. Manufacturer Certificates

a) Certification Name  
Range  
Reference  
Validity Period  

3. Manufacturer Capability

a)Trade Capacity  
Nearest Port Shanghai,Qingdao,Tianjin
Export Percentage 51% - 60%
No.of Employees in Trade Department 6-10 People
Language Spoken: English, Chinese, Spanish, Japanese, Portuguese, German, Arabic, French, Russian, Korean, Hindi, Italian
b)Factory Information  
Factory Size: 10,000-30,000 square meters
No. of Production Lines 2
Contract Manufacturing OEM Service Offered Design Service Offered
Product Price Range High and/or Average

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