• CDL Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump System 1
CDL Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

CDL Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
500 unit/month

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CDL Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

Application:

     CDL is a kind of multifunctional products. I t can be used to convery various medium from tap water to industrial liquid at different temperature and with differernt flow rate and pressure .CDL type is applicable to conveying non-corrosive liquid, while CDLF is suitable for slightly corrosive liquid.

   Water supply:Water filter and transport in Waterworks ,boosting of main pipeline ,boosting in high-rise buildings.

  Industrial boosting:Process flow water system ,cleaning system, high pressure washing system, fire fighting system.

  Industrial liquid converying:Cooling and air-conditioning system, boiler water supply and condensing system, machine-associated purpose,acids and alkali.

  Water treament:Ultrafiltration system, reverse osmosis system,distillation system ,separator, swimming pool.

 Irrigation:Farmland irrigation, spray irrigation,dripping irrigation.

 Operation conditions:

   Thin, clean,non-flammable and non-explosive liquid containing no solid granules and fibers.

   Liquid temperature:

   Normal temperature type:-15℃~+70℃

   Hot water type:+70℃~+120℃

   Ambient temperature:up to +40℃

  Altitude :up to 1000m

  Pump

  CDL is a king of vertical non-self priming multistage centrifugal pump,which is driven by a standard electric motor.The motor output shaft directly connects with the pump shaft through a coupling. The pressure-resistant cycliner and flow passage components are fixed between pump head and in-and outlet section with tie-bar bolts. The inlet and outlet are located at the pump bottom at the same plane.This kind of pump can be equipped with an intelligent protector to effectively prevent it from dry-running, ou-of-phase and overload.

  Electeic motor:

  Full-enclose air-blast two-pole standard motor

  Protection class:IP55

  Insulation class:F

  Standard voltage :50HZ:1*220-230/240V

                                          3*200-220/346-380V

                                          3*220-240/380-415V

                                          3*380-415V

CDL  F    8     2  /    1

CDL---  light vertical multistage centrifugal pump

F----   flow passage components are of stainless steel 304 or 316

8---   rate flow(m3/h)

2---stage

1---number of impeller


Model PowerModel PowerModel PowerModel Power
(CDL2)(KW)(CDL4)(KW)(CDL8)(KW)(CDL16)(KW)
2-200.374-200.378-200.7516-202.2
2-300.374-300.558-301.116-303
2-400.554-400.758-401.516-404
2-500.554-501.18-502.216-505.5
2-600.754-601.18-602.216-605.5
2-700.754-701.58-70316-707.5
2-901.14-801.58-80316-807.5
2-1101.14-1002.28-90416-9011
2-1301.54-1202.28-100416-10011
2-1501.54-13038-110416-11011
2-1602.24-14038-120416-12011
2-1702.24-15038-1305.516-13015
2-1802.24-16038-1405.516-14015
2-1902.24-17048-1505.516-15015
2-2002.24-18048-1605.516-16015



Q:Mercedes 2000 ml 320. I changed radiator and water pump now car only runs half as worm than it used to. So now heat blows cold to little warm depending on how cold out side
flush out the heater core and change the thermostat !
Q:The truck has 89k on it and i'm having the timing belt done this week; would it be wise to get the pump changed since it's in the same area, even though it's not leaking; for preventitive maintenance purposes, or is there life left in the pump? I don't want to take it back soon after if the pump does go out
Water pump life is a direct function of proper maintenance, therefore there is no real answer to your question. At 89k you could certainly elect to replace the WP as long as the T-Belt is also being done, but it is purely a preventive maintenance item. Might save you a lot of money later, or it might not. Impossible to say. It will give you more peace of mind though.
Q:i want to hook a pressure booster pump to a well pump so i can have some pressure out of the well, is this doable?thanks!
If you connect two pumps in series and not parallel the pressure will increase but you need to have them connected so if the well stops running the other does also.
Q:Who knows? Is the motor with a pump a squirrel cage induction motor?
Not necessarily, mussaurus main motor and conventional motor rotor winding is the difference of mussaurus, can be in series with other equipment, to achieve more functionality!
Q:I think the water pump is going out in my truck can I still drive it short distance if I put water in it first?
Just make sure ur truck dont run hot. What I would/have done is put water in it then while u drive if the temp starts goin up pull over.
Q:I've been noticing a difference in the temperature gage lately. The quot;change oillight has also been coming on and I just had an oil change not even a month ago, and the car isn't even due back for at least another month. I noticed there's a green/blue liquid in my driveway today, too. I looked under the car and something is leaking or dripping around the passengers side front wheel. More so the passenger-middle side. I've been told it could be the water pump.
If it's not a heater hose leaking your most likely right that the water pump is bad and loeaking coolant out of the weap hole,which is their so you know it's bad and needs replaced , i believe you should be able to have a new water pump labor for around $300, bucks.Don't put it off to long or you might blow the head gasket.You don't wont to do take.
Q:I have a 1992 acura legend coupe V6 3.2 liter engine. My water pump is leaking. How do I tell if I need the 1 tube or 2 tube pump because thats how the water pumps come. Its either the one tube or two tube but I dont know which one I need for my car. also, how much is the cost to install the water pump. Thank You,Josh
88 Acura Legend
Q:My 2001 300M is behaving oddly. Occasionally it will gradually overheat after I have driven around for 15 or so minutes. Yes, occasionally. I took it to my mechanic who changed the thermostat and hoses. I then drove it on a trip on the interstate and over a mountain (140 miles ) It was fine with no signs of overheating. Then the next day when I drove to work in the city, the stop and go traffic had it overheating near the end of the trip. I've been able to keep it from going in the red by using the heater. After this happened most of the days, but not all, I took it back to the shop. He reported that the fans were working correctly and the only thing he could come up with is a weak water pump. He stated that when it did get hot, he was able to bring the temp down just by rev'ing the engine a little.Does that sound right? Any other ideas and how to test?
The only reason to replace a water-pump on such a new car is if the weep-hole on the bottom of the water-pump in-put shaft casting is leaking. If your upper radiator hose if hot when the dash temperature reached 195 degree's there is nothing wrong with the water-pump. Cooling systems plug when brand X antifreeze is mixed with the standard equipment, long life type. *Did your mechanic do an inexpensive *cooling system pressure test to look for external and internal coolant leaks? Is the radiator filled to the very top when the engine is stone cold? Is the plastic coolant recovery bottle at least 3/4 full when the radiator cap has been removed? Have you checked to see of the electric cooling fans are operating behind the radiator when the dash temperature reaches 205 degrees? It's less expensive to change the thermostat and radiator pressure cap than a non-leaking water-pump. An 11 year old car is do to have the cooling system drained flushed and *cleaned before having Fresh factory recommended ZEREX G-05 antifreeze added.
Q:Okay so earlier, I went to go test out my water pump and all on my 66 mustang 302. And I got it up to normal operating temp, and had the rad cap off. I gave it some gas, the coolant level didn't go down, instead it came out the rad pretty badly. I've been having overheating problems, and I have no leaks, i just replaced the thermostat a few days ago, it didn't help. I haven't seen any leaks around the weep hole on the water pump, or noises. Other than a belt that does need to be tightened a bit, you can hear the belt squeling a tiny bit. So do yall think it could be my water pump?
if at an idle you see coolant flowing in the radiator, the pump is ok... More info is needed here really, assuming you don't ever have to add coolant though... I'd flush the system... if you do add coolant and find no leaks around the engine (weep hole, hoses, freeze plug) check the passenger side floorboard for moisture, the heater core may be shot...
Q:I want to buy a 2000 Audi tt coupe that seems to be in good condition. The owner mentioned he has replaced the water pump. What could the reason be for having to replace the water pump? Could the car have over heating issues?
Despite the fact that i'm an audi character, and scoff (for no logical intent) at the bmws as I drive by way of, i'd go for the bmw given these picks. Many moons ago i drove bmws, however i fell in love with the quattro once I drove my first audi. I don't know how bmw is excellent-smart in this day and age, but the older ones i had had been bulletproof. On the other hand, my audis have dealt with me good too... Residing in new england, audis are far and wide given that of the quattro. I cant believe of someone who has had a TT and used to be overly overjoyed concerning the auto.

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