• WKM Expanding Gate Valve with API 6A Standard System 1
  • WKM Expanding Gate Valve with API 6A Standard System 2
  • WKM Expanding Gate Valve with API 6A Standard System 3
WKM Expanding Gate Valve with API 6A Standard

WKM Expanding Gate Valve with API 6A Standard

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 pc
Supply Capability:
100 pc/month

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1. Structure of WKM Expanding Gate Valve Description


1) Metal-to-metal sealing (gate-to-seat and seat-to-body).

2) Expanding gate design creates a positive mechanical seal across the seats, with or without line pressure.

3) Full-bore, through-conduit gate-to-seat seal maximizes valve life by virtually eliminating turbulence and pressure drop.

4) Gate skirts reduce loss of body lubricants.

5) Low running stress enhances life of the gate-to-seat interface.

6) Upper/lower roller thrust bearings are isolated from well fluid, minimizing torque.

7) Stem packing can be re-energized with valve under pressure.

8) Non-rising stem permits valve installation in closer quarters.

9) Seats, gates, stem, and other working parts are field replaceable.


2. Main Features of WKM Expanding Gate Valve


1) Advanced test for quality 

2) MTC provided 

3) Good price and service


3. WKM Expanding Gate Valve Images




WKM Expanding Gate Valve with API 6A Standard

WKM Expanding Gate Valve with API 6A Standard

WKM Expanding Gate Valve with API 6A Standard


4. WKM Expanding Gate Valve Specification


Working pressure: 2000-5000PSI

Nominal size: 2-1/16"~7-1/16" (46mm~180mm)

Working temperature: - 46℃~121℃(LU)

Material class: AA、BB、CC、DD、EE、FF

Specification level: PSL1-3

Performance Requirement: PR1

Working medium: oil, gas, mud, gas contain in H2S、CO2


5. FAQ of WKM Expanding Gate Valve


We have organized several common questions for our clients,may help you sincerely:


①How about your company?

One of the leading manufacturers and suppliers specializing Oilfield products in China, mainly offering various of oilfild products consists of our one-stop sales. The integrated sales & service ensures customers with various demands an easier access for purchasing management.


②How to guarantee the quality of the products?

We have established the international advanced quality management system,every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test;We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.


③How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of product within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible.


Q:im trying to turn on my sprinklers from the valve manually,but doesn't seem to work, the valve it's an antisiphon rainbird valve with two little knobs, I know that one is the bleeder and the other the pressure control, or something like that, and the solenoid has the on and off arrows on it, but i can't do it anyways,they come on automatically right on time ,it's just the manual thing that i can't do, please help me,i really need it
Here's okorder /... Simply twist the solenoid (the black cylinder with 2 wires coming from it) on the valve counter-clockwise 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. To shut off the valve, twist the solenoid clockwise until it is snug on the valve. Good luck!
Q:i have a leak on the front of that valve cover and the oil is going down to the headers,,how can i fix the problem.?how do i install da gasket do i need any special things??thanx for tha help
He could have placed helicoils in to repair that. without the splendid torque the pinnacle will warp and this could actual reason the oil leak.in fact ask him why he did no longer restoration it whilst it became aside. The regulation probable calls so you might furnish him of undertaking to repair it as quickly as.you may no longer could pay for that and you may ask to work out the gaskets he would be removing to interchange returned. If he takes it aside and reuses the gaskets he purely put in there will be issues down the line.
Q:I have a 66' malibu el camino with a 283 sbc and a powerglide transmission! I have bee noticing a ticking noise on the motor and it miss kind at a rhythm. I took the valve covers off and noticed pieces of metal right by the front of the motor on the head. It is where the #1 piston is. Some of them have kind of a rounded off shape to them. I dont see anything wrong with the springs. but its dark and i cant really see. I also noticed on the even side 2/4/6/8 some of the rocker arms are loose? Some may be loose on the odd side too. not sure, i didnt check them. I found them right where the hole is where im guessing where the oil comes in. What do yall think? It idles kind of rough and i have noticed a loss of power? do i have broken valve springs or something? Thanks for the answers!!!!
my first guess is that are the valve keepers , little pieces of curved metal that keep the springs compressed on the valve stem. there are 2 per valve stem.. if the eng was over rev-ed, the valves can float and let go of the keepers. one keeper could stay in place and still hold the valve. if this is the case , you could drop a valve at any time and hole a piston. or it could be the end of one of the springs. or even a broken valve guide .From what you said and the eng missing on one cylinder i would be reluctant to run the eng until you found out. or the rounded shape could be the top of a push rod that is broken off , they are dome shaped. You can look at the keepers and the push rods by loosening the rockers so you can turn them aside to view the keepers . at the top of the valve stem to make sure they are all in place. as well a look at the push rods. So loosen all the rockers and see what you find. if you need more info about how it all works . you can find videos on youtube . like how to adjust valves on V 8 eng and how to replace Valve springs push rod replace rocker arms stuff like that and you find videos that will show you the keepers , valve guides etc. you can looosen the and remove the rocker arms without anything coming apart , so you dont have to worry about that. i guess we know what you will be doing this weekend , haha
Q:How come my boiler supply valve isnt letting water into my boiler, i have a cold water supply hooked up to it with the valve on i have tested the copper pipe goin into it and water flows into it, but when It reaches the valve it stops. I understand that it my have a backflow preventer in it and I am wondering if that could be malfunctioning. The hole you see on the front is where my expansion tank screws in. Also where could I get a new Valve. Thanks.http://img149.imageshack.us/i/boilerfillvalve.jpg/
I work on antique steam boilers and engines for a hobby and if your supply valve isn't letting feedwater into the boiler, I'm going to tell you right now that you potentially have a VERY dangerous situation on your hands. Until you get this issue resolved, I would recommend that you not steam this boiler up under any circumstances, unless you have a backup feedwater delivery system that is working correctly. Many people don't know this, but a low water condition in a boiler under steam is essentially a ticking time bomb and can result in a fatal explosion. As to what may be causing it, I would say it's possibly one of two things: 1.) The check valve has been installed backwards and the flow of water is basically pushing it shut. 2.) The check valve is installed correctly, but is frozen shut due to corrosion and scale. Either way, I would have a certified boiler inspector come out and take a look at it; he can probably tell you more than I can.
Q:im having trouble locating the pcv valve on my 1979 oldsmobile. i have a 305 engine. i need to replace it asap, so any help would be appreciated. thanks in advance to all feedback.
On one of the valve covers. It will have a larger dia. (about 3/8) hose hooked to the end up of and going to the carb. It will be pushed into a rubber plug thing on the valve cover. Just remove hose, and grab valve and pull up on it.
Q:Beneath my kitchen sink are two shut off valves for the water; one for hot, one for cold. The hot water valve has never successfully stopped all water flow, so we've always resorted to shutting off the main line. Well, now that's not working. We shut off the main water line to the house, all water everywhere is non-functioning except for the hot water pipe beneath my sink. It's now causing the faucet to constantly stream water, so it's something we have to resolve ASAP. I'd like to avoid calling a plumber, but my knowledge in such areas is very limited. Can anyone give me any decent suggestions? For the record, I did take apart the faucet fixture just in case, thoroughly cleaned it, and replaced all of the washers I had access to; but we only just bought the faucet in September, so I can't see a worn washer as being the problem. I also tried to tighten the nut behind the handle on the valve. It didn't effect the dripping.
The faucet is the problem, not the valve under it. If you just bought the faucet, it shouldn't have any washers in it. Washerless faucets have been the norm for 15 to 20 years now. You need to replace o rings or entire cartridges and the cartridge valve seats. Cartridges are designed to only work one way, but can be installed backwards, so pay close attention to directions that come in the package. To get the proper parts, you need the manufacturer of the faucet (Moen, Peerless or whatever) and you need to know if it's a one handle or two handle faucet and if it's a vanity or kitchen faucet. When getting these parts, you are better of going to a small hardware store or plumbing supply store. They do sell them at Lowe's and Home Depot, but the personalized, professional and knowledgeable customer service at a small hardware or plumbing supply store is invaluable if you don't know exactly what you need. The guy in the plumbing department at Lowe's may or may not know what he is talking about. If you type replacing faucet cartridge and seats into google, you will come up with several videos and how to web sites to show you how to do the job. You should also look at replacing the valve under the sink and the main, so you can shut the water off all of the way. Sometimes on the main if you just open it and close it a couple of times it will break up the lime residue on it and work properly. If it leaks externally, rebuild or replace it.
Q:Which is worse ? And what causes it? I was told I had mitro valve prolapse but I m symptoms had worsen and so I saw a cardiologist again today and they said I have mitro valve regeritation.
Firstly both conditions are not necessarily serious. Prolapse is the phenomenon of one or both mitral leafets bending slightly into the left atrium when the heart contracts. Normally when the leaflets close they dont clise straight but form a slight tent shape facing towards the LV. With prolapse the leaflet bends beyond the imaginary straight line of the valve annulus. Regurgitation is simply back flow through a valve when closed - all valves function as one way check valves to ensure one way flow through the heart. Its completely normal to have a small amouny of regurgitation at all valves except the aortic valve. Mitral regurgitation typically worsens with prolapse because the valve isnt closing properly. Usually prolapse and mitral regurgitation are not all that serious and only require periodic monitoring. Consult your DR if you suddenly develoop symptoms like chest pain or breathlessness. These can indicate the valve is degenerating further and may require medical treatment.
Q:My mother is 40 and is going in on the 21st for an aeortioc valve replacement. We are so stress on deciding between what type of valve she should have to get. please help. please include things like costs and medicines and anything else that will give us more info.
This is definitely a question for your cardiologist. I can tell you that mechanical valves will require a higher INR and they will have more problems with bleeding. A tissue valve won't last as long as mechanical, and may have to be replaced sooner.
Q:Since the valve drain is usually open, I am wondering if placing the cap on the drain has made my water heater dangerous.
You said it is the plastic drain valve. The pressure relief valve definitely is not made of plastic. A cap on the plastic drain valve at the bottom of the tank is not dangerous. If the bronze relief valve near or on the top of the tank has a drain pipe on it and that is the one you capped then, yes, you need to remove the cap and replace the valve as soon as possible.
Q:My car has been sputtering and hesitating when I hit the gas. My friend's boyfriend says it is a bad erg valve does that sound right?
i would say fill up with hightest put injector cleaner and run some dry gas. that will clean your injectors and make sure there is no water in the gas. change your fuel filter. check a plug. does it look ok? what year? miles?

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