Q:I just got a stab system failure when i was driving today. I was wondering how would it cost to repair this problem?Hummer 3 (2006) auto

Is there an intermittent rough idle? When was the last time you changed the oil? Dirty engine oil can cause the passage screens to blow out of the passage of the Camshaft Phaser Actuator Solenoid! Scan the PCM for any stored codes, If you find P0014 or P0017 You can bet this is the problem! This is a very common problem with the 3.5L engine! NOTE: On this vehicle, if certain codes are stored the PCM, it will send a DISABLE STABILITY message to the EBCM (electronic brake control module) and the MIL (check engine light) AND the STAB light/message will both appear!

Q:The change oil light came on as well as service engine light and I reset by turning key on and pressed excellorator 3 times but the service engine light stayed on.

Cold means cold, as in not recently driven on. Coldest time of day (morning) gives you the best baseline. Tire load carrying capacity diminishes as air pressure is reduced. You want to set them so that the recommended pressure is achieved at the coldest temperatures the tire is likely to encounter.

Q:Ok. i have been hearing some things on here like: i will have to get a new alternator, battery and 1/0 awg wire for a system thats amp is pushing out 900w rms at 2 ohms. However, i have went to 2 very reputable local auto shops and they have both said that my current set up will be fine for 900w rms, no doubts. my car is a 96 civic ex, with stock alternator, basic battery, and 4 AWG wiring that i was told was good up to 1000w rms. Keep in mind these are very reputable local shops. So, my question is basicly, whos full of shiit and whos not?

The real answer depends on the efficiency of the amp. Likewise with power wire size. To calculate the current draw of an amplifier, multiply the number of channels by the RMS watts per channel (a 2 channel amp rated at 500 watts RMS per channel would be 1000 watts). Double it to account for amplifier inefficiency (1000 watts X 2 2000 watts), then divide by the average output voltage of an alternator, 13.8 volts (2000 divided by 13.8 145 amps). For more accuracy, use the actual efficiency ratings. Since the average music signal requires about 1/3rd of the average power in a test tone, divide by 3 (145 amps divided by 3 48 amps). This is an average approximation of current draw and it can go higher. So I would gather between *48 and 72 amperes for this example. Calculate 40% of the amperes of the alternator you have now. This is the average current the car uses when running (lights, accessories, etc.). Add this number to the approximate average current draw (*48), and you will come up with the actual size of alternator you need. If the number you come up with is the same or less as what your alternator supplies, you need to take no action. All of this is to keep the car efficient without taxing the electrical system. If 2 pro audio shops don't know this, then I'd be looking elsewhere. The figure of 40% is an inflated 25% as speced by auto manufacturers. I went with 40% as a precautionary measure for those who may have EXTRA accessories not part of the stock system - better safe than sorry. If you don't account for the car audio challenged, who will?

Q:my ABS light stayes on also my 4x4 light keep trying to come on and i get a wrench light. it seems like my claipers are stuck i already changed them but the problem contuines. it like the truck won‘t pull off it just sit there no matter how much gas i give it.

The ABS modules are expensive. That being said you have more than one issue going on. The ABS light isn't too likely to be related to the inability to move the truck. Even with an inoperative ABS system the truck still has the ability to stop itself using the standard hydraulic braking system. The wrench light indicates there's a mechanical issue that needs to be fixed. The easiest way to isolate it is to have the codes scanned and go from there. The ABS system can be a chore to diagnose without a scanner designed for that purpose, unfortunately they are not the scanners the auto parts stores use for free. Your inability to get the truck moving is more likley to be related to the driveline/transmission.

Q:i have a new alternater and battery but my battery light comes on when i reach a certain speed?

Stop by an auto parts store and have them test the battery and charging system. You could have a loose or corroded cable or connection, or the battery or alternator is bad. Even new parts can be faulty.

Q:Why is this?What i have done so far:-Replaced gasket(i think thats what its called),spark plugs and wires-changed transmission fluid , done oil change.Im am considering doing a fuel system cleaning and the guy at Jiffy lube said something about my coolant/radiator.My heat/ac works great, havent had any problems.If I do the fuel cleaning and change the coolant, will this get rid of the service engine light.The car works great otherwise.

If you have an Auto Zone near you, take your car there. They will hook your car up to the computer, and tell you why your engine light is on. This service is free.

Q:My sister has had all her tires slashed at work 5 times in the last year and it's getting stupid. Her work won't put up cameras and the police (many of which are friends of hers) can't do anything about it. So what is a good system to catch this joker? She works midnights at a nursing home, so night vision a must. Cost at this point isn't, although cheaper would be better. 5 sets of tires isn't cheap. If it was happening more often I would be in a parked car with shotgun.

There are many surveillance cams that might be adaptable to a vehicle, but we don't know what the precise parking and building layout are - or your familiarity with setting up a power supply. I get my different cameras at Fry's Electronics. bhphotovideo has an OK selection. There are some commercial grade vehicle surveillance systems, but they seem like overkill for your needs and will be difficult to adapt to other situations, if needed. Remember, the camera is only one piece. I presume you need the video recorded. There are video surveillance digital video recorders (DVRs). Much more useful than the tape based systems. But again, power is the issue. There are a few small POV cams that use flash memory (like those from VIO, but they don't do well in low/no light) and the batteries won't likely last for an entire shift - and you don't want the car's battery drained. I am not aware of any vehicle motion detection integrated systems - but external motion detection (someone approaching the vehicle) is possible. Where do you plan on putting the cameras? In the car? No/Low light infrared systems may have issues with glare/reflection from the vehicle's windows. In the wheel wells? That just sounds like trouble waiting to happen. You will likely need 4 cameras to cover all approach angles. (front/sides/rear), but I can't figure out where you would mount them - maybe on an SUV with a roof rack, but on a sedan, that would look too strange. And running the wires could be a challenge unless you can squeeze them through the top portion of the door or trunk weather strip... I was figuring putting the DVR in the trunk and running the wires there. The back of the car is do-able with a small back-up camera. The front is sort of do-able with a grill-mount, but the sides... they are a challenge. Especially with the no/low-light requirement. The small cameras don't have an infrared emitter; and those with an infrared emitter are BIG. Good luck...

Q:I was driving today to work in some snow. After switching highway lanes a couple times (which made me go over piles of snowat relatively high speed), the car started vibrating and humming, like if I was driving on really rough and hard terrain. And the service vehicle light came on. After a couple minutes though it became normal again. I stopped and restarted the car but after a few minutes the service light came on again but car seems to drive fine. Although after that I did get ABS light come on as well as trac off (traction control off?) And now the service light comes on everytime I start the car and switch to D. Although no ABS light anymore. Furthermore a couple minutes after I turned off the car I could hear some weird bubble sound like if air bubbles were coming underneath liquid to the top What‘s wrong with the car most likely? And what is that liquid sound?It‘s 2000 pontiac grand am 3.4L with 140k miles.

Go to a car wash with a can of GUNK. wash your engine compartment, and all your wheels and brakes. Also wash your front drive axles. Snow may have collected and hardened on any of these surfaces. ALSO, find an auto car wash that has high pressure spray to wash the underside of your car. Your converter may have collected an amount of snow on it that keeps it holding in too much heat. Since your ABS light is coming on, I would focus your attention to the acccumulation of snow and road debris on your brakes. The liquid noise might indicate that your cooling system requires attention and servicing. GM coolant only lasts for 50,000 miles safely before it begins to deteriorate and cause trouble. GOOD LUCK!!!

Q:The little yellow check engine light I guess it is came on yesterday in my 00 Grand Caravan, wondering if anyone might know what causes this. The manual says possible emissions issue, or auto transaxle?

It's definitely time to go to a good shop and get the right diagnosis. It is probably an oxygen sensor, but it could be a number of other problems. The sooner you get it fixed, the better. The check engine light comes on when the engine computer detects a problem with the emissions control system, which includes the transmission.

Q:Led car headlamps the first generation and the second generation of what is the difference

The first generation is the lamp bead, is a like the size of the beads like soybeans to CREE as the representative. The second generation, that is, the latest generation, is a small finger-like, that is, COB cold light source, "nine plus a LED headlamps" as the representative.