• All Aluminium Alloy Conductor Used for power transmission and for various voltage levels System 1
  • All Aluminium Alloy Conductor Used for power transmission and for various voltage levels System 2
All Aluminium Alloy Conductor Used for power transmission and for various voltage levels

All Aluminium Alloy Conductor Used for power transmission and for various voltage levels

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 m
Supply Capability:
100000 m/month

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1. Item:All Aluminium Alloy Conductor
2. Application
Used for power transmission and distribution lines for various voltage levels
3.Standard
AAAC bare conductor meets or exceeds the following ASTM specifications:
B-398 Aluminum Alloy 6201-T81 Wire for Electrical Purposes
B-399 Concentric-Lay-Stranded 6201-T81 Aluminum Alloy Conductors.
4.Specification


Code NumberTotal AreaStranding &Wire DiaOverall DiameterLinear MassRated Strenght
AWG or MCMmm2mmmmkg/kmkN
Akron30.5815.487/1.685.0442.74.92
Alton48.6924.717/2.216.35687.84
Ames77.4739.227/2.678.0210812.45
Azusa123.362.387/3.3710.1117218.97
Anaheim155.478.657/3.7811.3521723.93
Amherst195.799.227/4.2512.7527330.18
Alliance246.9125.17/4.7714.3134538.05
Butte312.8158.619/3.2616.3043748.76
Canton394.5199.919/3.6618.3055158.91
Cairo465.4235.819/3.9819.8865069.48
Darien559.5283.519/4.3621.7978183.52
Elgin652.4330.619/4.7123.5491197.42
Flint740.8375.337/3.5925.161035108.21
Greely927.2469.837/4.0228.141295135.47
/613.37/1.5544.67374.22
/421.157/1.9615.89586.71
/233.637/2.4747.429310.68
/1/053.487/3.1199.3614816.97
/2/067.427/3.50310.5118620.52
/3/095.037/3.93211.8023425.86
/4/0107.237/4.41713.2629632.63
/250126.6619/2.91314.5734938.93
/300152.119/3.19315.9741946.77
/350177.3519/3.44717.2448952.25
/400202.7119/3.68618.4355959.74
/45022819/3.90919.5562967.19
/500253.3519/4.1220.6069874.64
/550278.637/3.09621.6776883.8
/600303.837/3.23322.6383891.38
/650329.2537/3.36623.5690897.94
/700354.5537/3.49324.45978102.2
/750380.237/3.61725.321049109.6
/800405.1537/3.73426.141117116.8
/900456.1637/3.96227.731258131.5
/1000506.7137/4.17629.231399146.1
Q: So my vehicle's amp recently stopped working. It worked great after I installed it about a year before, so after testing for shorts, burnt out fuses, etc, I decided that the amp had died on me. After getting a new one-and it not working either-I checked the voltage at the end of the power cable where it hooks onto the amp. I get a 12v reading when the ignition is off, but only a 4v reading when it is in the run or aux. position. The in line fuse is good, as well as the battery (just had it checked). Any ideas as to why this is happening? As of this posting, I have NOT tried running a new power cable yet, but that is the next step if nobody has an answer. Thanks.
Try a new power cable, if i were u, I WOULD def. go with 0 guage Memphis wire, which is 95% pure copper. Its very good wire, top quality. Your old wire just burned out cuz it was probably around 10% copper.
Q: My 4 pin CPU power cable is too short can I plug the 6 pin cable into that 4 pin slot? Safely? Thanks in advance for your help.
No, okorder . I know they have extensions so they should have what you are looking for.
Q: Doesn't have to be super powerful, just lifting about 100 pounds, frequently. I've already looked at the normal places, and they are all DC powered (car battery). I suppose it could also be manual.
With no offense to answer 1, but in agreement with answer 2, ONLY through experience with both big LOT outlets; I'd probably try Northern first. In fact I just had a discussion with someone yesterday comparing the two; but again; it's personal preference. It's likely they get their inventory from the same distributors. For 100 pounds, and if geared at all, manual could be fine. One issue might be your intended use; portability; possible access OR NOT, to a power source; etc.
Q: my amplifier s power cable is not long enough to reach battery . so is there any problem if i take another piece of power cable and then attach them ?
It's safe enough, as long as you make a good splice, and insulate it well. For automotive use, I like insulated, crimp-on splices. If this is a really high-power setup, and the power cable run is that long, you may be better off replacing it with heavier-gauge wire.
Q: My stereo in my car is cutting out (powering off and on again) on high volumes. I'm trying to determine if it's my amp/sub-woofer or not. I switch off my amp with my remote power switch (the blue cable switch) and I still get the cut out. Is this conclusive enough to indicate that the problem is not with my amp/subwoofer?
Ok, so this is what your going to do to test this. First unscrew your remote switch and place a wire from the positive terminal from your amp to the remote switch on your amp and then the amp should power on. now if you have the same problem it is most likely that it is not that the remote switch is having problems but probably your sub is not matched with your amp and has greater ohms than your amp is capable of therefore sending it into protect mode which would make sense since you say it is when you turn up the volume. I wish the best of luck : ) P.S check your wattage if your amp draws more than 600+ maybe even 500 your battery may not be able to power it so maybe if all else fails see if you can get your hands on a capacitor.
Q: we need to feed power of 60kW to island villa
You probably need a higher voltage than that, depending on the distance. That is 1500 amps which needs a hugh cable. This should be stepped up to a much higher voltage. And yes, cables are available. If you don't know that, then you need to hire a qualified electrician to do this. edit, sorry, 150 amps, less if this is 3 phase. But still a lot of current. AND the wire size will depend on the distance. More than a few hundred feet and the size has to go up to keep the voltage drop below 5% .
Q: what is the resistance of overhead power cables?
electrical resistance? depends on length, temperature end diameter mechanical...depends on material, steel, copper, aluminium... resistance to corrosion, to fatigue due to vibration from the wind... be more specific Guru
Q: So my old power cord cable is no longer working and i need a replacement but i cant find one. does anybody know where i can find one? PLease include links
120v is the time-honored (enter), what's the secondary (output)? 12v? voltage drop will become a huge element once you're coping with 12 volts. you choose a required quantity of volts and amps to run that digicam. by way of fact it is already low voltage, the greater you stretch it, the greater resistance you create. if resistance is going up, present day is going down. if present day pass down, volts pass down. quite a few the right thank you to offset it is to: Use a greater gauge cord. Use a greater voltage output utilising a greater cord will artwork in case you may calculate resistance of a cord over a special distance. you choose the mandatory output voltage on the tip of the cord. To do it suitable, we choose your enter and output voltage's, and amps on the burden (digicam), and relatively distance. A voltage drop calculation will make certain the size of cable required to 'do it suitable'. utilising a greater voltage output will artwork on a smaller cord, yet a resistor will must be put in on the digicam. you will additionally ought to alter your wall wart. Or deploy an outlet interior of 6ft of your digicam.
Q: types of computer cables and where they are being used?
For communication between devices in the computer, such as the hard drive and the motherboard, either IDE or SATA cables are used. For power, Its either a 3 or 4-pin power connector, though some things have two pins (like fan connections to the mother board). Also, the SATA devices use SATA power cables.
Q: I have a usb hub that is externally powered that stays on 24/7 even when i shut my computer off. It is buried behind by desk so removing the usb power supply manually each time is what im trying to avoid. Is there anyway i can put a switch in the power cable going to it?
Before you attempt this, make sure you have the following items: -Wire strippers -Electrical tape -Two terminal switch -Scissors IMPORTANT! make sure that the cable is unplugged from the computer and the hub before you do this! 1st, cut the cord halfway with the scissors. Next, remove the outer wire insulation from the two new ends you just cut with the wire strippers. Now strip the small colored wires that are now exposed. Then connect the red wire from one half of the cord to a terminal on the switch. Do the same with the other red wire from the other half of the cord and connect it to the other terminal on the switch. Strip the other small wires and connect them back to their appropriate colored wire. Finally, wrap each wire individually with electrical tape, then wrap the entire gap in the cord with it. Now plug the cord in and try it out!

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