• 6620 series German Ritz Deep Well Submersible Pump System 1
6620 series German Ritz Deep Well Submersible Pump

6620 series German Ritz Deep Well Submersible Pump

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
-

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Type Description

6620×4

66 series number

20: pump type

4: four-stage impeller series connection

Application

66 series pump is single suction multistage submersible pump that can applied to farm irrigation, garden sprinkling, fountain landscape, rainwater recycling system, mining drainage, emergency rescues, urban water supply, enterprise and government intuition water lifting. It can be used in horizontal position(while its service life will be inferior to that of vertical using). This product has some advantages of low noise, high efficiency and energy saving.

Its suitable for enterprises and public institutions such as bath center, district heat supply, power generation, underground hot water lifting. Different specifications and types provided for different wells.

Structure description

66 series submersible pump applies the space conductance guide valve structure, and it composes of pump, motor, controller. The pump contains working part, pipe (including check valve ).

1) working part

For pumps with strong axial force, we equipped with balance hole in order to relieve the pressure, then the motor could bear the rest.

We are strict about the concentricity and axial movement. With exquisite accessories and accurate axial locating dimension, the machine has a long service life and can be operated smoothly and reliably.

2) Pipe

The pipe contains check valve, discharge pipe and pump frame. Outlet of check valve is connected with the discharge pipe to prevent the water regorging when the power is cut off. Water flows out from check valve through discharge pipe, pump frame, ground gate valve and pipes to the destination. The pump frame is fastened on the concrete plinth, supporting the whole weight of the pump.

Medium Range

1        Clean water, cold water, rainwater, gushing water of mining, drinking water,etc.

2        Water temperature range: +5--+105

3        Solid content (mass ratio): ≤0.01%

4        PH: 6.5-8.5

5        H2S content: ≤1.5mg/L

6        Cl- content: ≤400mg/L

7        The full set must be submerged into water completely in vertical position and the model must be matched with the well diameter.

Motor Parameter

The submersible motor is lubricated by clean water. It must be filled with clean water, or else its service life will be lessen. If you forget filling, the motor will be broken.

Motor protection level: IPX8

Insulation Class: E

Power Source

Low-voltage: 380v/ 50HZ, or 660v/ 50Hz

High- voltage: 3000v/ 50HZ, or 6000v/ 50HZ

If you need special voltage or frequency, please inform us in advance.

Material

1 Impeller: Cast iron, gray iron200, or tin bronze, such as ZCuSn3Zn8Pb6Ni1

2 Pump bowl: Cast iron, gray iron200, or stainless steel, such as 2Gr13 .304

3 Pump shaft: stainless steel 2Gr13(1050thermal refining, enhancing torsional moment)

4 Tension bolt: made by cutting 20# steel, the end part is welded by stainless steel 304.

5 Check valve: body, seat ZG230-450; plate, ring, valve rod Cr17Ni2

6 Interface shim: rubber asbestos plate

7 Motor Seal: Rubber O-ring seal, mechanical seal

8 Motor regulating sleeve: rubber

Advantage

1  Easy installation

2  Low noise, high temperature resistance, long service life.

3  Exterior check valve, convenient to maintain and exchange, avoiding water hammer impact

4) High lift with single-stage, lower the whole sets height, enhance stability; the bearing bush is made of tin bronze.

Supplys

Ritz submersible pump set(including the body and motor). You also can choose one of them.1 flange matching with outlet, 1 maintenance instruction, 1 conformity certificate, 1 packing list, wooden external packing.


Q:I just replaced my submersable well water pump, the wire that connects the pump, the d switch, and the water tank. Everything was installed correctly and with the help of a licensed plumber. While the D switch is closed (providing power to the pump) the pump will run for about 5 seconds then shut off for about one minute. It will continue this process until the system attains proper pressure and the D switch will open, shutting off power to the pump. The pump is brand new. Why, when power is being supplied does the pump cut on and off? We have tested the current at the well head and it shows that 230 is being supplied the whole time that the D switch is closed, which is correct.
Your problem is with pressure. The air tank needs to be 2 -4 lbs below that of the setting of the D switch. I had to change my air-tank a couple of weeks back, and I had the same problem. EDIT: the current drawn should be about 24 Amps and the line voltage is 230v with resitance at 100K ohm. for the coils. Cure: Using a good tire air valve checker, make sure the air tank is about 25- 28 lbs. Turn off all the faucets or the main valve feeding the house or garden lines. Give power to the pump. Turn the D valve nut (the one with the spring) **up** one half turn. Turn on the valve and let the water run and listen for the pump working. It should run for no more than 2 minutes. (there is a thermal cut-off in the pump that saves you blowing the pump up). When the thermal cut-off disconnects the power, don't worry, all is well. It is trial and error with the setting and is a pain in the butt, but you will get the setting right, I assure you. Remember, turn up 1/2 turn at a time... Best of luck. XX
Q:I have a 2002 honda civic with 85k miles the dealer says the timing belt should be replaced. But with the water pump timing belt tensioner also have to be replaced???
Just did this myself. You should replace the belt and water pump at the same time. The water pump is not a durable device, the pump seal will eventually start to leak. Getting your timing belt wet is a sure way to lead to a catastrophic engine failure. I replaced the belt tensioner as well. It's good insurance and since you're already in the engine, the added cost is small and the potential for failure moderate. This is not a job for an average DIY'r, I have a full shop and many years of experience and still had a hard time doing the job. I suggest you get it done by a pro. Astrobuf
Q:I have a Honda Accord, and last week I replaced the Radiotor, due to a leak. This week the Water pump broke, it was making a ver loud noise and major leak, when I opened the rad, basically all the fluid was drained.Do you think the two are related? or do you think when the Rad was replaced it was not done properly which caused the water pump to break?Thanks.
If your radiator went then it is highly likely that regular maintenance ie rad flushing, fluid changes have not been taking place. Water pump will have nothing to do with the rad, unless when rad was leaking you ran vehicle with no lubrication (water-antifreeze mix) to water pump. The pump will just seize up or crack. These issues are probably just age related. If the rad was defective or you had coolant issues, the lights on your dash would indicate low fluid engine overheat of course you wouldn't drive it then. Everybody knows what a dummy light is for, right.
Q:A mechanic replaced my timing and other belts on my 2001 Mitsubishi Galant 4 cylinder today but not water pump. He said the water pump looked good. All the other mechanics I talked to told me they had to replace the water pump. This mechanic said the belts were not connected to the water pump in this car and therefore the water pump was ok. The car has about 100500 miles on it. Is this bad or should I call him back and ask him why he didn't change the water pump. I don't want to pay more later.
Some cars have different designs. The water pump on my 96 Century could have been done in a matter of minutes. Where as some are much deeper in the engine. Usually, to change a water pump like this is pretty much one more step than changing the timing belt. This is why it's usually a good idea to do them both at once.
Q:I took my 04 Grand Prix to the mechanic for a coolant change. My car had never drip coolant until after the coolant change . I took my car today to the same mechanic and he told me that the problem was the water pump and wants to charge me 70 dollars. Could changing the coolant affect the water pump. Or did the mechanic damaged the water pump on purpose.
I will try to put this simply. It is very serious. Water cools your engine and without the pump to circulate it, your engine will overheat and very quickly damage itself. Even if you add water constantly, it is not being circulated, your engine will overheat and the new water you will put in will probably instantly boil and rush up into your face. My advice. Don't drive it until you can get it fixed. Sorry, I know this isn't what you wanted to hear, but I am concerned for your safety and I don't want you to wreck your engine and you will if you keep driving it. The damage you can do is like this. The engine overheats and seizes up. This means that the engine parts, pistons and rings have expanded beyond design limits. They break inside and wreak havoc. The crankshaft and big end bearings can seize also. If all this happens, you are looking at a reconditioned engine. Fix your pump. It's cheaper
Q:I switched on the pump and smoke came out of it, i opened the pump n found it had some water probably caused the shock. How to repair it or is it dead?? ** its not a well pump just a normal one that pump the water to the tank from a small reserve
If you have to ask the question you don't have the skills to do it. You could see if there's anyone in your area who rebuilds motors and ask them to look at it, but if it smoked it's probably dead. If you want to try some simple things, take it apart, dry it out and put it back together and see if it works. If does, see if you can see where the water was leaking from and see if you can seal it back up.
Q:I have a 2002 Honda Civic Ex sedan with about 105k miles. Sometime before 110k I need to get the timing belt replaced. At about 95k my mechanic asked if I wanted to replace the timing belt and the water pump. According to the owners manual the timing belt must be replaced, but it simply says check the water pump.I don't want to pay for unnecessary repairs, but I also know that both of these jobs are quite involved, but can be done together fairly easily. Is there anything I can do to check myself or do I just have to trust my mechanic when I take it in. Also, what is the cost difference between the timing belt job and adding in the water pump at the same time?
i would if i were you. that way you will know everything is good shape. besides a pump don,t cost that much.
Q:What is the difference between a low pressure pump and a high pressure pump?
The specific speed of the high pressure pump is relatively smaller than the speed.Lift is not the same, the same flow, high pressure pump head high.Pump and shaft materials are not the same, high pressure pump raw material demand is higher, to be able to accept greater pressure and torque.The size is different, the pump body of high pressure pump is larger.Bearings can also be different, low pressure pumps are rolling bearings, and high pressure pump power, then some pumps are selected sliding bearings.The support method can also be different, the low-pressure pump is the pump foot support, but the high pressure pump can be the intermediate support.
Q:I would like to pump water from a canal which is approx. 65ft from my existing sprinkler plumbing. the height of the water level on average is approx. 6ft from the surface of the ground. I will need about 35 psi to operate the sprinkler zones. would the following pump work given the lose of pressure?... Horsepower:1.5Voltage:110V 60hz 9.5AmpPower ( max ):1100 WMax Flow :330 L/Min (87 GPM)Suct Hmax9M(30ft)Max Head:18 MInlet/Outlet Size:1.5quot;RPM:3450
it almost has to. the max amperage for anything with a 110 volt plug is about 12.5 amps. it should as long you are not pumping the water uphill. Please give me the 10 points for best answer!!
Q:I have a '97 Chevy S-10 2.2 with 208K miles. Today on the way to work the heat cut out suddenly.I have had an issue with my engine where the temp will go up and down while on the highway but maxes out at like 215. Today after the heat cut out it was getting up near the redline before going back down to 150.I made sure the coolant was good before coming home but on the way home it was doing the same thing. I changed the thermostat but it's still doing the same thing.When I rev the engine I can see the upper radiator hose collapsing so it seems like there's a clog somewhere but I don't know how to find it. I guess it could be the water pump but then what is causing the suction on the upper radiator hose?Anyone have any ideas?
doesnt sound like water pump you may have lost a heater core thats what it sounds like to me its getting vacuum and temp is jumping but you dont have heat sounds like it to me check that next but as with the other selection check if your thermostat is in wrong

1. Manufacturer Overview

Location
Year Established
Annual Output Value
Main Markets
Company Certifications

2. Manufacturer Certificates

a) Certification Name  
Range  
Reference  
Validity Period  

3. Manufacturer Capability

a)Trade Capacity  
Nearest Port
Export Percentage
No.of Employees in Trade Department
Language Spoken:
b)Factory Information  
Factory Size:
No. of Production Lines
Contract Manufacturing
Product Price Range

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

New products

Hot products


Hot Searches

Related keywords