6620 series German Ritz Deep Well Submersible Pump

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Product Description:

Type Description

6620×4

66 series number

20: pump type

4: four-stage impeller series connection

Application

66 series pump is single suction multistage submersible pump that can applied to farm irrigation, garden sprinkling, fountain landscape, rainwater recycling system, mining drainage, emergency rescues, urban water supply, enterprise and government intuition water lifting. It can be used in horizontal position(while its service life will be inferior to that of vertical using). This product has some advantages of low noise, high efficiency and energy saving.

Its suitable for enterprises and public institutions such as bath center, district heat supply, power generation, underground hot water lifting. Different specifications and types provided for different wells.

Structure description

66 series submersible pump applies the space conductance guide valve structure, and it composes of pump, motor, controller. The pump contains working part, pipe (including check valve ).

1) working part

For pumps with strong axial force, we equipped with balance hole in order to relieve the pressure, then the motor could bear the rest.

We are strict about the concentricity and axial movement. With exquisite accessories and accurate axial locating dimension, the machine has a long service life and can be operated smoothly and reliably.

2) Pipe

The pipe contains check valve, discharge pipe and pump frame. Outlet of check valve is connected with the discharge pipe to prevent the water regorging when the power is cut off. Water flows out from check valve through discharge pipe, pump frame, ground gate valve and pipes to the destination. The pump frame is fastened on the concrete plinth, supporting the whole weight of the pump.

Medium Range

1        Clean water, cold water, rainwater, gushing water of mining, drinking water,etc.

2        Water temperature range: +5--+105

3        Solid content (mass ratio): ≤0.01%

4        PH: 6.5-8.5

5        H2S content: ≤1.5mg/L

6        Cl- content: ≤400mg/L

7        The full set must be submerged into water completely in vertical position and the model must be matched with the well diameter.

Motor Parameter

The submersible motor is lubricated by clean water. It must be filled with clean water, or else its service life will be lessen. If you forget filling, the motor will be broken.

Motor protection level: IPX8

Insulation Class: E

Power Source

Low-voltage: 380v/ 50HZ, or 660v/ 50Hz

High- voltage: 3000v/ 50HZ, or 6000v/ 50HZ

If you need special voltage or frequency, please inform us in advance.

Material

1 Impeller: Cast iron, gray iron200, or tin bronze, such as ZCuSn3Zn8Pb6Ni1

2 Pump bowl: Cast iron, gray iron200, or stainless steel, such as 2Gr13 .304

3 Pump shaft: stainless steel 2Gr13(1050thermal refining, enhancing torsional moment)

4 Tension bolt: made by cutting 20# steel, the end part is welded by stainless steel 304.

5 Check valve: body, seat ZG230-450; plate, ring, valve rod Cr17Ni2

6 Interface shim: rubber asbestos plate

7 Motor Seal: Rubber O-ring seal, mechanical seal

8 Motor regulating sleeve: rubber

Advantage

1  Easy installation

2  Low noise, high temperature resistance, long service life.

3  Exterior check valve, convenient to maintain and exchange, avoiding water hammer impact

4) High lift with single-stage, lower the whole sets height, enhance stability; the bearing bush is made of tin bronze.

Supplys

Ritz submersible pump set(including the body and motor). You also can choose one of them.1 flange matching with outlet, 1 maintenance instruction, 1 conformity certificate, 1 packing list, wooden external packing.


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Q:Hartell solar water pump question ...?
OK, well your question is a bit confusing and I am not sure if it is because you don't understand how your system works. Your hartell pump pumps water. It does not produce heat. Your water heater heats water. It is a backup to your solar panel system. If on the other hand you have a heat pump as a back up source of heat this could be an entirely different matter and you are best at providing a model number which should be stamped on the part. We need to start again. Is your system for solar hot water or for general heating? Is it a system in a cold climate where freezing is an issue. Is it a pump down system or a system that circulates antifreeze in the solar loop. The reason all this is significant is that if you are paying a lot in electricity then something is not working. The first question has to be is it a design problem, a mechanical problem or an operational problem. You may need more hot water storage or more solar panels, you may need to replace parts, or you may simply need to turn the right valves (This would be the case where you have a grounding loop to keep the solar panels from overheating in the summer.)
Q:Where can I buy small high pressure water pumps?
Dude, you're out of practice. What do you mean by small? 12 volt what source? What is your purpose? Blowing imaginary evil fairies away would be so cool!
Q:Do you need to replace the water pump on your car when replacing the water pump gasket?
Since we don't know what kind of car/engine you have, there are really too many variables for anyone to give you a good answer. You would want to take into account things like; How hard is it to replace the water pump, labor/time wise? How much does a new water pump cost, for the part itself? Is the water pump driven by the timing belt, and is it an interference-fit engine? If the water pump were very expensive, but easy to replace, and isn't driven by the belt on an interference-fit engine, then there would be very little risk in not replacing it for the now vs later cost savings. But if the water pump were very cheap, hard to replace, and is driven by the belt on an interference-fit engine, then it would not only be cheaper to do it now, but you wouldn't have to worry about a bad pump snapping the timing belt, and wrecking your engine from the valves hitting the pistons, warping or even cracking the cylinder head, and so forth. In the end, the decision is up to you, but these are the kinds of factors you would want to take into account when making this decision.
Q:The flow of the pump will be reduced, the speed will change, the power of the motor will change?
1, this pump flow reduction is not the reason for speed. Because it is not matching the motor frequency conversion, the frequency of power supply unchanged, the motor speed will not change.2, the flow of water pump down, the reason may be that the impeller due to cavitation or wear and tear smaller, second, the gap between the impeller housing change, and the impeller plug foreign bodies, and some of the suction port leak.3, it is possible that the whole system resistance increases, so that the work point of the pump left.
Q:What would be a compatible water pump?
If okorder.com or just your local pet store and see if you can't buy a pump with a similar/same output.
Q:Diving pump voltage
Small amount of water, it should be the lift can not meet the requirements, change the submersible pump is the best solution. With 380 volts, it is very likely to burn out the pump motor.
Q:A Salty Pool without the fancy Salt Water Pump.?
I don't think you or others really understand a salt water chlorination unit. The salt is added to the pool water through water circulation of the pool water the ION unit water passes past these two electrodes which in turn give off a chlorine gas which becomes the chlorine requirements for the pool On the ioniser is a dial that is set to a required setting to do with the volume of certain sized swimming pools. Even though one has this unit connected to their pool, they still have to add chlorine to their pool of the chlorine level isn't enough. This can be done in various methods, via a floating skimmer or have pellets put in hair lint pot or scattered over the pool surface, once dissolved in a bucket of warm water. Just by leaving the salt in the water as you suggest won't really do much other than help keep the water salty! This is my opinion I'll not get into a wage or wars over who is right who is wrong! Your trying to get others on your side, because you made the wrong choice purchased a salty pool chlorinator pump your dis- satisfied with your choice I am not going to agree or disagree with your statement other that to say your putting your families health at risk being a skin flint! So you think your doing the right thing, by putting your families health at risk for the sake of a few lousy dollars. Do it properly have a professional to come connect it all up for youin a proper manner!! Surely your families health means a lot more to you than risking a few lousy bucks on the proper unit! Cheers!!
Q:How do you check the water pump on force 85 outboard.?
if its hooked up on the hose, and it doesnt piss, you replace the pump like you should of already done as part of routine maintence. and since you are behind on maintaining that, you are probably behind on everything else too..... the yamaha guy, if your hose only has 5 psi of water pressure instead of the usual 30-40 psi, that is still 5 psi more then the lake has. running on a hose makes it easier for the pump to move water through the engine. even if your impeller has totally broken into pieces, the hose will still push water through your engine all by itself.
Q:Does the lift of pump relate to the water level of import and export?
What's the relationship?! When the inlet level is low, the head is slightly higher than the liquid level!
Q:I have problems with an Espa water pump with a pressure vessel. It is very slow to cut in. Pressure gauge to 0
The guage is probably broken, but that is mostly for reference for setting your start/stop switch. Now, first off I'd check your bladder tank. A bad bladder tank will still give you some pressure but causes the pump to run almost constantly. To test that, there is a bicycle looking air valve sticking out of the bladder tank. Push a key or something in it as if you were to let air out of a tire. If any water comes out, your bladder is bad and has to be replaced. If you have an older style deep well, like a well house where the pump is accessible, check the switch, (little black box attached to the pump). There are two screws that can be turned. One sets the pressure the pump will turn off at and the other adjusts the minimum pressure you want for the water to turn back on and fill your tank. A lot of people go 20/40, I run mine at 30/50. Much more than that and you can run into problems, especially if you have cpvc pipes. They will weaken at the elbows and 60 psi of water can eventually make pin hole leaks. This is from personal experience. You will need a working gauge to set this. If the bladder is not your problem, email me and I'll give you more details on how to set your pump if you need it. Or, you can buy preset switches at your local hardware for $20 and just swap it out. In that case, do not mess with the adjustment screws.

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