• 4 Inch Stainless Steel Deep Well Pump (4SP8) System 1
  • 4 Inch Stainless Steel Deep Well Pump (4SP8) System 2
  • 4 Inch Stainless Steel Deep Well Pump (4SP8) System 3
4 Inch Stainless Steel Deep Well Pump (4SP8)

4 Inch Stainless Steel Deep Well Pump (4SP8)

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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Basic Info. of 4 Inch Stainless Steel Deep Well Pump (4SP8)

Model NO.:4SP8

Performance:Drainage Pump

Start Up:Electric Pump

Media:Water Pump

Application:Submersible Pump, Clarified Water Pump

Type:Blade Pump

Material:Stainless Steel

Power:Electric

Structure:Multistage Pump

Theory:Centrifugal Pump

Assembly:Liquid Pumps

Industry:Household & Agricultural Pump

Export Markets:Global

 

Additional Info. of 4 Inch Stainless Steel Deep Well Pump (4SP8)

Packing:Export Carton

Standard:CE

Production Capacity:10000PCS/Year

 

4 Inch Stainless Steel Deep Well Pump

Applications of 4 Inch Stainless Steel Deep Well Pump (4SP8)

 For water supply from wells or reservoirs. For domestic use, for civil and industrial      applications. For garden use and irrigation.

 

Operating Conditions of 4 Inch Stainless Steel Deep Well Pump (4SP8)

 Maximum fluid temperature up to +35º C
 Maximum sand content: 0.3%
 Maximum immersion: 80m
 Minimum well diameter: 4 inch

-Motor and Pump
 Rewindable motor
 Three-phase: 380V-415V, Single-phase: 220V-240
 Equip with special start-up control box.
 Adopted the NEMA standard
 Insulation class: B
 Protection grade: IP 68
 Intermal diameter of outlet :  2"

 

Warranty of 4 Inch Stainless Steel Deep Well Pump (4SP8)

1 year (according to our general sales conditions)

 

FAQ

Q: Are CNBM pumps available in DIY stores?

A: Yes, currently, we’re available for DIY stores all over the world.

Q: Where do I have to send pumps for service?

A: You must send them to the CNBM PUMP Service Point or, after contacting Customer Care, to the CNBM PUMP service center in China.

Q: Are your pumps acid-proofed?

A: To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.

Q: Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

A: Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.

Q: Are your pumps protected against dry running?

A: No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

4 Inch Stainless Steel Deep Well Pump (4SP8)

Q: I'm planning to install a water pump using electric generator from a very long distance going up from a cliff
if it is powerful enough to power the pump then yes.
Q: In 2005, the water pump, export pressure in recent years decreased year by year, the running current is increasing, there are 4 pumps are like this. Professional personnel advice please!
The reasons are as follows:(1) motor guide bearing wear, water pump rubber bearing wear, sealing ring wearMotor or water pump bearings wear, will make the submersible pump in the machine on the wrong state of work, serious damage to submersible pumps, stator windings burned. The method is to repair or replace damaged bearings and bushings.(2) thrust bearing wear, submerged pump impeller and lower cover wearThis situation will also make the submersible pump on the machine in an abnormal state of work, serious damage to the submersible pump. The treatment method is to check the cause of the wear of the thrust bearing. Whether the mechanical seal of the shaft extension is damaged or not, which causes sand particles and impurities to enter the inner cavity of the motor, causes excessive wear of the thrust bearing. If it is caused by the mechanical seal of the submersible pump, the replacement of the thrust bearing, thrust plate and impeller, lower cover plate and other parts shall be replaced by mechanical seals at the shaft extension end.(3) the flow of the submersible pump is too large or too smallThe use of submersible pumps flow beyond the scope of use will make the motor overload of centrifugal pump or mixed flow pump, excessive flow, the pump shaft power increases, the motor overload; for the axial flow pump, the flow is too small, the pump shaft power increases, the motor overload. The treatment method is to adjust the valve properly, reduce the flow rate of the centrifugal pump or the mixed flow pump (increase the axial flow pump), and make the flow of the pump in the normal range of use.(4) the shaft of the submersible pump is bent and the bearings are not concentricThis is a serious case of submersible pumps, should be immediately overhauled, straighten the bent shaft, replace the unqualified bearings, re assembled submersible pumps.
Q: i hear water swirl in my dash board when i take off and when i reverse, i heard its the water pump pushing water through the heater core, but how can i fix it.?
The issue is not just that the water pump is pumping air through the system, it is that there is an issue with air being in there in the first place. It gets there one of two ways. First, your cooling system is losing water somewhere and air is getting drawn in through the coolant overflow bottle or through a leak in the hoses, the radiator, or the radiator cap. Second it is getting in through a compression leak. Compression leaks are caused by blown head gaskets or cracked or corroded cylinder heads or engine blocks. You need to determine which it is, because you need to address the issues differently. Fill the cooling system with coolant, purge the air out of it, and connect a pressure gauge to the radiator where the cap normally goes. Start the engine. If the gauge fluctuates up and down, you have a compression leak caused by a blown head gasket or crack in the block or head. If the gauge doesn't fluctuate, you have a leak in the cooling system that could be in any one of many places, such as hoses, caps, freeze plugs, the radiator itself, the heater core, or one of many gaskets. If it turns out to be a compression leak, you need to pull off the heads and replace the gaskets, and if there is any corrosion or cracks, you need to either replace or repair the heads. Broken head bolts can also allow compression leaks, so if you do remove the heads, you need to replace the bolts and torque them to the correct specs. If your engine oil looks frothy, like latte, this is another sign that you have a blown head gasket. It means coolant is getting into the engine oil. If it is a leak in the cooling system that is not related to the head gasket, you need to find it and seal it. There is no other way to find out exactly what is allowing air into your cooling system other than these two methods. The sound you hear when water is flowing through your heater core is actually the air gurgling through. No air, no sound.
Q: vw tells me the pump is defective, bad water circulation. i noticed the fans did not turn on when it began to overheat. is that irrelevant with the pump being defective? i even drop the car cold(i started the engine and drove) within 10mins it began to overheat, but the fans did not turn on. is it just the pump? the fan switch is new, no fuses are blown. the radiator and fans are less than 2 yrs old. 2000 jetta
The fan switch on that car is in the thermostat housing so it would not turn on. It is very common for water pump to fail on those cars. The cooling fans help keep the water in the radiator cool if you r water pump is bad, and us ally what happens is the impeller falls off, no water is moving from the engine to the radiator.
Q: To get at the timing belt on a Toyota 3.4L V6, does the water pump first need to be removed?If so, is there a way to tell how worn a water pump with 85,000 miles is? Like a loose bearing feel, etc?
If you are replacing the timing belt it is recommended you also replace the water pump. They have similar life spans and one has to be removed to replace the other.
Q: I currently have a gould 1/3 horse jet water pump and a rusted pressure tank that I would like to replace. There are two bathrooms, both with showers, 2 bathroom sinks and the kitchen sink, as well as the washer. What horse power should I have for 5 faucets and what size pressure tank would be sufficient? The shower in the upstairs bathroom hardly has pressure at all with the current pump and pressure tank. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
I would go with a ? hp jet pump which normally come with a 30-50 pressure switch Check out Home Depot I believe they sell the Flotec. which will run about 260.00. It will give you much better pressure upstairs and if you want to increase the pressure you can chance the pressure switch (24.00) to a 40-60. As for tanks I would look at the 42 gallon. If you have any more questions about tanks and pumps…feel free to e-mail me
Q: I got my oil changed yesterday and took like a 3 hour drive and back home and had no issues.. today I was at my work visiting and I noticed smoke coming from the engine [sort of more of steam] and a lot of smoke coming from the exhaust. The light on the gauge inside the car for the engine temp isn't working but all the other ones are. A mechanic told me it was a bad water pump, but I just want some more opinions. Or if the oil change could of effected that.. My engine coolant wasn't that low but a greenish liquid was really leaking from underneath the car.
An oil change does not make a water pump go bad. Nor does the lack on an oil change. They just go bad over time. Just because there was steam like smoke coming from the exhaust system does not mean there is a water pump problem (water is a natural by product of combustion). Now the green fluid does mean that you have a coolant leak. But that could be because the reservoir was over filled when the engine was serviced. Some shops top off all fluids, and if the tank is over filled the excess has to go some where. But if could be a bad water pump. If so there will be water coming from the weep hole on the water pump. It could also be a bad hose. So unless I craw under it and take a good look, I don't know. If you do replace the water pump, and you have a timing belt that can be replaced, spring for the extra parts because in many cases the labor is already being paid for and the parts are less expensive then the labor at a later date. FYI: I do water pumps every other belt replacement for this reason.
Q: I'm using an old Mitsubishi Lancer. Recently I changed my water pump it was leaking.To me it looked like a piece of metal, with a small fan thing (not motorized) How can it fail? There is no mechanics to it, just like a pipe with a fan (or turbine)I also messed with my radiator, I unhooked the main hose to clean out the coolant, since the plug was jammed. Could this have contributed to the failing of my water pump?
That fan thing is called an impeller and when it spins it pumps coolant through the motor and radiator to keep it cool. It spins off a belt that is connected to the crankshaft pully and possiabley the alternator. That impeller and shaft spin on sealed roller bearings. These bearing will last a a lot of miles but they will wear out, and when they do the shaft moves out of round and wears out the seal that keeps the coolant from leaking out past the shaft. Over tighting of the drive belt will wear out the bearinge prematurley, but a pump will usually last 100,000 miles
Q: Could it make coolant quot;Boilquot;? Ive heard myc ar's behavior is Normal, and most likely just heavy condenstaion as it DOES go away, also the behavior of the coolant and the tank.. but i DO know the Water Pump is quot;Weeping,or quot;Seeping,so i wonder what interaction that would have ont he Cooling side of the motor; what effects can it produce? What would i notice?My 1991 Calais 2.5L quot;Iron Duke,
Steam coming from your headlight on a rainy night is NORMAL, since the halogen bulb makes a lot of heat. This turns the water into water vapor, (steam) as it attempts to dry out. If you don't physically hear the bearings in your water pump, or watch colored fluid drip out from under your engine, then your water pump is JUST FINE!!! STOP WORRYING! I answered one of your questions the other day. If you take my advice, your engine will run at it's best. For extra protection, drain and flush your cooling system out, and use Mercedes coolant. Dex-cool has been proved to be a potentially bad coolant. READ the dexcool litigation websites. Mercedes coolant, which is YELLOW in color, will last for 150,000 miles, and is a time tested WINNER!!! Use ONLY top tier fuels (read about this on web) and use ONLY synthetic oil, like Mobil One. CLEAN your idle air control valve and throttle plate. AND STOP WORRYING!
Q: I have a four cylinder ranger with manual transmission. The top pulley was making a squeaking sound the other day and stopping and going. The car stalled out so I had to give it gas for about a minute, and this has happened several more times in the past week. And the car is making a somewhat loud rumbling/clanking noise, which I'm guessing is the bearings on the water pump. So my question is how much will a new water pump cost, I've seen prices quoted on here from $150-$700. Also, it was in the mechanic the other week and I asked him to check the ac compressor and he said it was fine.Thanks
A water pump for your truck costs $63 at Autozone. I can't imagine where you got those prices at. Take the belt off and turn all the pulleys by hand. You should be able to tell which one is bad. Water pumps don't have bearings. The shaft just rides in a bronze race.

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