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FAQ

Wire 1 and wire 2 are made from the same metal. Wire 2 has a larger diameter than wire 1. The electric field strengths E1 and E2 are equal. A) Compare the values of the two current densities. Is J1 greater than, less, or equal to J2?B) Compare the values of the currents I1 and I2. Is I1 greater then, less or equal to I2?

The current will be more dense in the smaller wire. The value of the current is inversely proportional to the resistiance of the wire. Resistance = resistivity * length / Area since the wires are of identical material and length, the only thing left to vary is the cross-sectional area. Area is proportional to the square of the radius (diameter), so the current will be proportional to the square of the diameter. I2 is proportional to I1^2 I2 is larger than I1 .

I removed my range hood (switched off the electricity for it first) and there are three wires coming out of the wall. There's a white insulated, black insulated, and totally not insulated copper wire. What is the non-insulated copper wire? When I flip the electricity on, will it have a charge? It was weirdly wrapped around a screw in the box with the wiring...I'm not sure if it was doing anything. Thanks!

The bare wire is ground, perhaps the most important wire because it is there for safety. Sure the hood would have worked with out it but you may have gotten electrocuted if it wasn’t connected. Whenever connecting wires in anything the ground wire must be connected. If the box you are connecting the wires in is metal, not only do you have to connect the ground wire to any other ground wires you also have to connect it to the metal box so that the box is grounded. Otherwise later you may come back and touch the box and get electrocuted. The ground wire is there to ensure the breaker/fuse gets tripped if a hot wire touches any metal part of any appliance that is connect in the circuit. If not it will be like touching a hot wire just by touching the appliance. Hope this helps!

How do current carrying wires produce magnetism... Explain, give sites and clarify.

i'm uncertain we've a sparkling theoretical answer to this in spite of the incontrovertible fact that it relatively is a demonstrable actuality that shifting expenses have an result on different shifting or movable expenses.even while there is not any internet fee glaring it relatively is summarized as magnetism

For my braces, the top wire where my two front teeth are, I can push the wire and it sort of bend. I don't know if this is normal or not. Can someone tell me?

Well im 16 and have had my wire braces for 2 years, and all my neighbors have wired braces, but i believe the invisible braces ive seen appear dangerous, like they have somthing on they are tooth. At the least with wired braces everybody knows its braces and no longer some crap you've got on you tooth thats suposed to be invisible.

Is there special speaker wire in order to run 250 watts max rms or will the oem speaker wire in the car be sufficient (did not originally have an amp and is most likely at 50 watts max rms). If I need a special wire for that please let me know what it is called and possibly an example link. Thanks!

most likely the wire pre ran in the car was 16 guage wire which is fairly small id recomend atleast 12G for speakers and 8G for a power wire.

what if I use a 100 amps.main braker to wire my range and dryer

NO each appliance has to be wired to the panel on its own breaker Dryers is normally # 10 wire and on a 30 amp 2 pole breaker. Three wire receptacles can still be used if they are existing in older homes and the appliance has to be wired for that 3 wire receptacle.Newer dryers have 4 wires and have a separate ground unlike the older dryers that used the neutral wire and ground together. A range can be # 4 wire or in some case # 6 wire depending on the KW rating of the range and have to have a 40 or 50 amp breaker on them as well. You should not put them together of course. Call an electrician and have ot done properly and it could save you form a heartache or worse.

So I customized my guitar, and now I need to wire it. i have a pre-wired pickguard but I don't know how to actually hook it up. There's 3 wires. I have 2 humbuckers, 1 singlecoil, 1 tone, and 1 volume. All I know is that one wire gets soldered to the back where the springs are and another wire goes to the input jack. But there's a 3rd wire and I don't know where it goes. I don't even know which wire goes to what. Please don't post a diagram because it doesn't help. I think the wire colors are white, blue, and yellow. Please help!

Matt, okorder /... The fact that the pickguard is pre-wired should make things a little simpler...in fact, if you post a picture, I could help. Without that, I can only make an educated guess. You said there are 3 wires? Well, I suspect that 2 of them are grounds. If you have a multi-tester, you can easily verify which of the two wires go to ground. Just touch one probe to the body of the volume or tone control, and the other to the wire. If you have continuity, it's a ground wire. If you follow them back to the source, both ground wires are probably soldered to the body of a volume or tone control. One ground goes to the bridge/spring assembly. The other should go to the output jack. You'll notice that the jack has two connections. One is the hot wire and the other is ground. You'll need to figure out which of the two wires is the ground, and which connection it goes to on the output jack. Look at the diagram in my link. See the wire that comes from the middle of volume control? That's the hot wire and it should connect to the part of the jack that contacts the tip of the plug at the end of your guitar cable. The other wire connects to the part of the jack that contacts the sleeve of the plug. If you look closely at the jack, you should be able to figure out which connection goes to the long prong. The prong is the one that makes contact with the tip of the plug....and this is where your hot (+) wire goes. Ground (-) to bridge-------------→ Ground (-) to output jack-------→ body/sleeve of jack Signal (+) to output jack--------→ tip connection of jack

i hav a 2000 explorer and just got a new head unit and bought a wiring harness to hook it up. on the wiring harness that's supposed to be plugged in to the truck there are 2 illumination wires, 1 of them is the illumination ground .Out of my new stereo there is only the illumination wire not an illumination ground wire. where do I put the illumination ground ? also i have 2 ground wires coming from my new deck 1 is 12v ground and the other is a chassis ground can i just hook them together?

workin for best answer 2000 Ford Explorer Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram. Car Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Light Green goes to your yellow deck wire Car Radio Switched 12V+ Wire: Yellow/Black goes to your red deck wire Car Radio Ground Wire: Black goes to your black ground wire Car Radio Illumination Wire: Light Blue/Red goes to your illumination wire Car Radio Dimmer Wire: N/A Car Radio Antenna Trigger Wire: Blue Car Radio Amp Trigger Wire: N/A if u have a amp this goes to your blue remote wire Front Speakers Size: 5″ x 7″ Front Speakers Location: Doors Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Orange/Light Green Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Light Blue/White Right Front Speaker Wire (+): Dark Green/Orange Right Front Speaker Wire (-): White/Light Green Rear Speakers Size: 5″ x 7″ Rear Speakers Location: Rear Door Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Gray/Light Blue Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Tan/Yellow Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Orange/Red Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): Brown/Pink hope this helps