Water Pump Series Submersible Sewage Pump From China On Sale
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Tianjin
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 100 set/month
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1.Specifications
1)High performance
2)Mechanical seal
3)Cast iron impeller or bronze impeller
4)Lower vibration water pump
5)Large flow
2.Packaging & Delivery
Packaging Detail: | export wooden cases |
Delivery Detail: | within 30 days once receipt of 30% T/T prepayment |
BPO Irrigation Centrifugal Split Water Pump
3.FEATURES
BPO series single-stage double-suction open type centrifugal pump self-researched by the Company after absorbed advanced technology of similar products and combined application requirement of various customers. The series pump adopts excellent hydraulic model, wider type spectrum and better structure. Pump casing is produced by special machine tool, which ensures concentricity among shaft bearing, shaft and pump case, and provides better reliability and maintainability. Apply to municipal water supply and drainage, water circulation of air conditioner, agricultural hydraulic engineering, such as irrigation, drain flooded fields etc., industrial water supply system, firefighting system, water supply and drainage of
heating system, transportation of clean water
4. OPERATING CONDITION
a)Rotate speed: 2950r/min, 1480 r/min, 980 r/min, 730 r/min
b)Flow range: 64.4~9810m3/h
c)Delivery lift: =200m
d)Medium temperature: =80 ,
e)product adopting special materials: -20 ~120
f)Ambient temperature: Lower than 40
g)Operating pressure up to achieves 2.5MPa
5. MATERIAL
a)Pump casing: Cast iron or magnesium iron
b)Pump cover: Cast iron or magnesium iron
c)Impeller: Cast iron, magnesium iron or tin bronze
d)Sealing ring: Cast iron or tin bronze
e)Pump shaft: 45# steel plated with chrome
f)Dynamic and static mechanical sea: Hard carbide, graphite
g)Configuring other material according to requirement is allowable
Rated flow | 10(m3/h) |
Rated head | 26m |
Rated power | 1.5Kw |
Voltage | 220V |
Rated Current | 7.2A |
Rated speed | 2860r/min |
Discharge diameter | 50mm |
6.Conditions of use
Pumps used in the following conditions should be continuously to work properly:
1. For water pumps suitable medium, medium temperature shall not exceed + 40°C
2. The medium PH value between 6.5 ~ 8.5
3. The volume of medium containing solid impurity is less than 0.1%, the size is not more than 0.2 mm
4. The power frequency 50 hz, voltage for single-phase 220 v, 380 v, three-phase voltage fluctuation range for rating of 0.9 to 1.1 times
5. Diving depth of no more than 5 m, is not suitable for irrigation and drainage of sewage and chemicals.
- Q: How can I do a pressure test on my 350's water pump. Some one suggested I do it to make sure it needs replacing.
- What makes you think the water pump is bad? If it has a bad seal/bushing then it will be leaking coolant out of the bottom eyelet on the water pump itself and you would be losing coolant, if its overheating then that could be air trapped in the system and may just need to be flushed or ran for a little bit to circulate the system. I would check these options first but if you want to pressure test it just start the vehicle and squeeze the upper radiator hose to see if there is pressure on the hose. I hope this helps you my friend.
- Q: I suddenly have this rattle noise whenever the engine is running but it diminishes with speed. It almost sounds like spark knock but spark knock would get worse at speed. It could be the water pump. Would a water pump get louder with speed, or go away as this does? I feel a tiny bit of in-out motion in the shaft but not side to side. Car is a Geo Metro and does have hydraulic lifters.
- check your belt tentioner , ten-shun er. the computer keeps telling me i spelled it wrong
- Q: Hi I just brought a chrysler sebring V6 that needs a water pump. I found a water pump on OKorder for only $30 and it only had 900 miles and it works great. Should I buy it?
- no always go new with water pumps. not a re-man either. always go new, especially with a timing belt driven pump
- Q: Water pump located on the ground floor of our 10 story building is leaking and therefore it is constantly running and spilling water into the parking lot. Therefore, a plumber shut the water pump off and opened a bypass valve.After we shut off water pump all units still have good water pressure so why do we need to replace water pump?When water pump is on the incoming city water gauge reads 60psi and the gauge measuring the water shooting up into the building reads 80psi. Now both gauges read zero.How can water coming from the city at 60psi travel all the way to the 10th floor without a boost? I do not understand what is happening.
- Neglecting friction losses: means = MassFlowRate * g * h turn cubic meters of water into kilograms. pass fee is already in seconds. sparkling up for h (would be meters), divide via the 4 meters / floor.
- Q: Ok, simple question, on a 1992 Jeep Cherokee 4.0. The water pump sucks water (not push) through the heater core correct? So the flow of water goes from the block, through the heater core, into the water pump, right?
- The heater middle is placed on the passenger edge on the firewall. From the water pump there'll be 2 small strains going into the black container on the firewall. The heater middle is interior the container. you have gotten a undesirable radiator hose. this is the extra value-effective restoration.If it replaced into the water pump, your automobile could over warmth in minutes. the warmth interior the automobile would desire to be from a vent door caught open interior the heater container.
- Q: I Need a water pump, no matter its fountain pump or high stream pump. But the things or you can say the parameters i required in that pump is, 2 inch minimum outlet from where the water come out, pressure 130 or above (in PSI) runs wid a 1 or 2 Horse Powered motor not more then 2HP. And the pressure calculation is flow of the water (130 Psi) , like while water is streaming out.Any one who can sugest some water pumps which can fulfill or near or above to my requirements. thanks alot sir for you kind time.
- there okorder
- Q: i have a 1991 Jeep Cherokee, started overheating last week, i flushed out the radiator with water, i replaced the thermostat, overheated again, i felt the top radiator hose it was cold. so i replaced the water pump. still overheated. every time i drain the system when i refill it i had red to fill the radiator and reservoir, leave the radiator cap off, then start the engine and turn the heat on max, the radiator burps the air bubble out, then the coolant level in the radiator starts going up and down, my thermostat is rated at 195, when the guage hits 210 hot coolant sprays out of the radiator, but the top radiator hose is cold, what am i doing wrong? is there air still trapped in that top radiator hose?
- id say its the radiator after all what ya replaced. have it checked out at a shop. before ya do though ya might do a complete flush of the motor and the cooling system. might be a blockage in a water jacket in the motor. ya can buy the flush kit at any parts store, its simply a T that ya splice into on of the heater core hoses,hook up a water hose,turn heater on, and wait with the engine running. if theres any blockage it will spit and sputter till its pushed out with the water pressure. let it idle till clear water comes out then drain and add coolant. try this first with water only and if it doesnt solve your problem id say ya need a radiator.
- Q: I'm looking to buy a used 2001 Protege. The car is nearing 75000mi, but the owner has not changed the timing belt or the water pump. I found out that it is recommended to change the timing belt at 60000mi, but couldn't find anything on the water pump. Realistically, when would I need to replace these, and any idea how much it would cost?Thanks!
- That could have either the 1.6 liter or 2.0 liter engine. My information shows that if you have the 1.6 liter, at least you don't have to worry about bending valves against pistons if the belt breaks -- you'll just be stuck out on the road until you can get it towed and fixed. Not so with the 2.0 which is an interference engine. So if you DO have the 2.0, pay attention -- you don't want an expensive breakdown! You're on borrowed time at 75K. For both engines, Mazda recommends that you replace the timing belt every 60K miles. Gates (a major replacement supplier) seems to think these belts will go 105K. Since it's a factory belt, stick with 60K. As for the water pump, it's often one of those while you're already in there sort of things when you're doing a timing belt. 60K makes it a tougher call, especially with the better quality of water pump bearings and seals. If your interval were 80K ~ 100K as is true on some cars, I'd say go for it without blinking. As cheap as it'll be (it's really just the price of the pump), and it was my set of wheels, I'd do it anyway, even at 60K, if it needed to be pulled to do the belt.
- Q: I REPLACED MY WATER PUMP ON MY 1988 CHEROKEE,THE NEW PUMP STARTED MAKING THE SAME BEARING NOISE.
- my jeep with the 4.0 ate 3 water pumps,The belt can also mimic the noise of a bad pump,spray some brake cleen on the belt as it turns and if the noise goes away its the belt. ase tech
- Q: Had a water pump start leaking, when I replaced it with a new one, it leaked even worse (around the gasket and O rings this time). The process I took...I unbolted everything and removed the water pumpI scrapped everything off with a wire brushI coated both sides of the gasket with red gasket siliconI mounted the new one and bolted it down tightening in a cross pattern(kinda difficult to get everything lined up)It leaked real bad the first time so I loosened the bolts and played with the top rubber seal to make it seat better.It leaked a little less the second time... but still WAY too much.I completely removed it the third time and (totally distroying the gasket) gooped it up with gasket sealer again, along with the O rings and tried again... leaked worse.Considering options... go with a white or black high heat siliconPossibly just using the sealer with NO gasketGooping the HECK out of it with JB-weld and pray!Suggestions?Know what I did wrong here?
- Two questions 1) Did you buy a new gasket? 2) Did you let the sealant set long enough? If you answered yes to both of these than the only thing left is to make sure you have the right type of sealant. Is it the waterproof stuff for waterpumps? You mentioned the stuff was red, it's been a couple of years since I changed a waterpump but I believe it was the BLUE stuff that I needed. But I could be wrong. Take it apart. Make sure it's clean (you can use a wire brush but I find a paint scraper works better) and apply the new gasket to the new water pump then but the whole thing back on the engine. Star pattern tightening the bolts. Test it without putting the clutch fan (I think this still has one) back on just to see if it's leaking. Hope that helps.
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Water Pump Series Submersible Sewage Pump From China On Sale
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Tianjin
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 100 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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