Self Priming Sewage centrifugal water pump

Self Priming Sewage centrifugal water pump

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 10 set

Supply Capability:: 100 set/month

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Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:	Self Priming Sewage centrifugal water pump Our Products are packed in exportation plywood case usually, our package is good for protecting the products. The putting way is different because of the different pump size and quantity. english manual will be provided together with the products.
Delivery Detail:	15 working days for Gorman Rupp Self Priming Sewage pump

Gorman Rupp Self Priming Sewage centrifugal water pump

Performance Parameters:

Capacity( flow rate) : 30~1200m³/h

Head :5 ~ 60Meters

Suction Lift : 7ft~ 25ft

Max. Solid : 76.2mm

Material : Cast Iron,SS304,SS316,SS316L.

Driven mode: Electric Motor and Diesel Engine.

Seal : Mechanical Seal, Alloy SiC/SiC

Bearings : NSK brand

1.Products Overview:

P series self priming non-clogging sewage pump is a new generation product which is developed on the basis of the lastest technology and craftwork.

A hole is addad to make sure that stronger sewage can be cleaned quickly when pump is jammed.

The unique lubrication oil mechanical seal makes the performance more reliable and avoids to damage mechanical seal when it operates without water.

2.Main usage:

♦ Municipal Project,Sewage Project,Instruction Project.
♦ Transportion of the sewage of uptown.

♦ Sewage transportion in Hospital,Hotel and so on.

♦ Classification of municipal sewage treatment factory and concentrate treatment systems engineering.

♦ Tansportation of the factory and contaminated water.

3.Operation condition:

1. The temperature of medium no more than 80°C,

the density of medium is 1.0 ~1.3* 10³kg/m³.

PH is within 5~9 .

2.Max. diameter of solid should be less than 75mm.

3.Max. suction lift no more than 7m.

4. Technical Specification:

Specification:
1.Inlet/Outlet	2''(50mm), 3''(75mm), 4''(100mm), 6''(150mm), 8''(200mm), 10''(250mm), 12''(300mm)
2.Impeller Diameter	158.74mm-457.2mm
3.Rotary Speed	550RPM-2150 RPM
4.Flow Rates	8m3/h-1275m3/h	20GPM-5500GPM
5.Head	6m-63m
6.Horsepower	1HP-125HP
7.N.W	92KG-998KG
8.G.W	114KG-1066KG
9.Solid Passing	20.63mm-76.2mm
10.Material	Cast Iron, ADI, CD4MCU, 316 SS, Alloy 20, C276.
11.Diesel Driving	Water cooled or air cooled
12.Method of Connection	Self-priming pumps are available as basic units or may be flex-coupled, V-belt driven or engine mounted.
13.Drive Variation	Cummins, Deutz, Ricardo, Perkins or Chinese Diesel, Electric Motor
14.Skid Mounted on Trailer	2 or 4 wheels Trailer/Trailor,Cart
15.Package	Exporting plywood case
16.Certification	CE , ISO9001:2008

5. Details of all Pump size :

MODEL	R.P.M. R/MIN	MAX FLOW m3/H	TOTAL HEAD m	MOTOR HP	NET WEIGHT kg	GROSS WEIGHT kg	MAX SOLIDS mm
P-2	1150-2900	46	36	1 – 10 HP	92	114	44.45
P-3	650-2150	107	35	1 – 20 HP	183	205	63.5
P-4	650-1950	163	36	1 – 30 HP	259.5	280	76.2
P-6	650-1550	330	33	2 – 40 HP	364	391	76.2
P-8	650-1350	600	34	7.5 – 75 HP	581	634	76.2
P-10	650-1450	775	40	10 – 100 HP	635	663	76.2
P-12	650-1250	1275	42	20 – 125 HP	998	1066	76.2
H-3	850-2150	85	62	1.5 – 25 HP	214	225	20.63
H-4	850-2150	148	58	3 – 40 HP	272	297	28.57
H-6	850-1950	308	57	5 – 75 HP	413	437	31.75

Q: We have a 2001 mazda tribute that has been leaking coolant and overheating. we thought it was just the radiator, so we replaced it, but it is still doing it. It leaks pretty rapidly, and overheats pretty fast too (in 1 to 2 miles of city traffic) Does this sound more like a hose or the water pump? how difficult will it be to replace the water pump?: Mazda Tribute Water Pump

Q: My mechanic doesn't get back in town until next week, and I'm struggling without my car. I don't really have any other options mechanic wise and I'm not dropping $1000 like meineke wants.How easy is it to follow the Haynes repair manuals or any other repair manuals? I have a 1996 dodge avenger and I need to replace my water pump. I know it's a time consuming task, but is it especially hard to replace it?: The first answer gave good advice. On older cars replacing a water pump was easy. You loosened the fan belt, removed it and removed the pump with the fan blades. Now nearly all autos have air conditioning and there is not enough room without removing some of the items associated with it. I have on occasion even had to remove the radiator before air became popular. Shop around for an independent mechanic or a small shop. The job will be more than you want to try probably. Good luck.

Q: I want to buy a 2000 Audi tt coupe that seems to be in good condition. The owner mentioned he has replaced the water pump. What could the reason be for having to replace the water pump? Could the car have over heating issues?: Why okorder /

Q: What's so good about having a water pump on my stand alone ice maker?What exactly does it do?: The ones that make cubes, not slices make a sheet of ice by continuously pumping the water over a flat evaporator. Then once the ice builds up it reverses the hot gas and the slab melts off falling on the cutting grid which cuts it in to cubes. Those that operate this way are much faster and produce more ice. No pump, no ice.

Q: I posted this earlier but nobody really answered my question . if my water pump is clearly on the serpentine belt I t need to replace the timing chain to get to it correct? The bolts holding the pump in are around it near the timing chain cover but they don't look like they are inside it. the pump is clearly driven by the serpentine so should I be fine not removing my timing belt to fix the pump? its leaking. Also I know you should replace the timing chain+tensioner but I inspected the chain 400 miles ago its properly tensioned the belt is in good condition its a chain it will last the life of the car its not the cheap belts.: Are you forgetting to mention something? Ah! Year, Make and Model. Engine size is a plus ... only a fool who knows nothing will answer your question without knowing the at least needed to know information ... What do you mean: if my water pump is clearly on the serpentine belt I t need to replace the timing chain to get to it correct? You've said: Timing chain and yet, the first answer by You may be right said: If you can change the pump without removing the timing belt then go for it, you are lucky. See what has happened when the needed to know information were not specified? .. and how do you expect any of us to know the question you have mentioned before and could not read your history in YA? I've rest my case ...

Q: 1998 jeep cherokee water pump: Chuck has an excellent step by step write-up on doing the job yourself. Is that your question, how do I change my w/p? If not then please edit to help us help you. (I sound like Jerry McGuire) On Chucks write up I just never wait for the RTV to set up at all just put it on and snug down the bolts.

Q: My 93 Ford t-bird over heats and i really don't know what could be the problem, the radiator is working fine, and also the fan and the thermostat, i don't think is a head gasket because the oil looks alright with no contamination and there is no steam coming from the exhaust im beginning to suspect the water pump but the weep hole is not leaking. So does a water pump MUST leak from the weep hole if it is bad, or it could be bad and not leak? thanks in advance...: Water pumps fail with some regularity--you can expect to replace yours sometime before 100,000 miles, if not sooner, and here's how to do it.Step2Locate the water pump pulley. The pulley is the round part that the belt is attached to. To find it, look for the belts. You will see more than one pulley. Your car will have an alternator with a pulley and perhaps an air conditioner power steering and smog pump pulleys. If you are unsure, ask your mechanic to point out the water pump pulley. Step3Grab opposite ends of the round pulley and check for play (looseness): Try to rock it back and forth. There should be no give. If there is, the bearings are going and it's time to replace the water pump. By the time you can feel play in the water pump pulley, you may also be able to hear the bad bearing when the engine is running - there may be a low-pitched grinding noise coming from the water pump pulley. Step4Visually check the water pump (it's located behind the pulley) for signs of a coolant leak. If the water pump gasket is leaking, it must be replaced. This is a good time to get a new water pump, too, unless it was just recently replaced.

Q: So I have a 2.4L chrysler cirrus. The water pump appears to be not working(pumping the fluid through) and the car over heats. They location is on the side since its a front wheel drive car. I have both a Chilton and Haynes manual and they both say i need to loosen the front engine mount and lower it. Thats about it really..Now i was wonder couldnt that mess up something. I dont plan on doing this myself but i would like to know how. Is it possible for the engine to fall out? Might sound stupid but im not sure how all that will work so i would like to know. Thanks -Joe: the belt that drives the water pump also has to be removed. usually this is the timing belt. this is a big deal. if you get the timing belt re-installation wrong the motor will not run properly, or will be damaged. go to a competent mechanic that you trust. don't go to a random shop for this job. also, if they are loosening the timing belt anyway, ask them to replace the belt also. this will cost you a bit more now, but save you money in the long run.

Q: and it still runs about every 1/2 hr even if you are not using water. I have no leaks from the pump thought the house so I think the problem is between the house and the well. I can't hear or see any leaks in the elbows in the well. I tried to pull the foot valve up but can't get it out. I replaced the pump cause it was worn out and it was running every 15 min. Do I need to set the pressure on the new one it cuts off at 42 and on at 20 psi and what else could cause it to run when it shouldn't? I know I should call a plumber, but haven't worked in months and can not afford one.: Your round pressure tank on the cellar may be water logged. Turn off your pump and drain as much of the water out of the air pressure tank in your cellar near the pump as you possibly can. There should be a Shrader (tire valve) valve in the very top of the tank. Pump the pre-charge tank up with 2 lbs. *less (18 lbs.) than the cut-in point of your pump. So far you have nothing invested in your problem. I wish would have told us weather you had a submersible or jet pump. It takes some strong boys to pull a jet pump-foot valve out of your well if that's your problem. Special equipment is needed to pull a submersible pump.

Q: It hasnt rain in quite a while, but I havent had any problems with the water or pressure, but it seems like the pump is always quot;onquot;. I purchased this house almost a year ago, never had a well, so I now very little about it. I moved in December, rain season here in NC, and remember the pump going on and off, now its constantly running, Is it normal for the pump to be running that much? any websites to read up on how a water well works?thanks: In the first place the pump should be able to run constantly without a problem, they're made to do this. In the second place go check your tank, see what the pressure is. You must have a water logged tank First: unplug the electric to the pump and then drain the tank completely. Once this is done make sure the tank is drained, plug it back in, wait and see where it stops at, the pressure. It should be about 55 to 65 pounds. When it stops have someone flush the toilet, it should slowly go down, it may settle without turning on, some do. If so, flush it again. Watch it again. When it starts up, keep your eye on it, it should go back to where it was to start with. If it doesn't then the volume control on the end of the tank, with the small tubing coming from it to the switch is out and should be replaced. You have to turn it all off again, drain the tank and replace the volume control. If the switch doesn't stop but, it comes to the end and doesn't open to stop and keeps running, then your switch control is shot and you'll have to replace that. If you have a bladder tank, it should say on the side, then you should empty the tank, as in the upper questions and then using an air pump put in about 38 pounds or whatever the tank says to put in the bladder, then fill it with water again. See if that's the problem.

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