PVC Insulated Electric Wire with a good price
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- Qingdao
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- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10000 m
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m/month
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PVC Insulated Electric Wire
Introduction
PVC insulated wire belong to the series of laying electric wires, which is mainly suitable for laying at the fixed places. It is widely used as connectors of drive, lighting, electric equipments, instrument and telecommunication equipments with rated voltage 450/750V or below. Part of the plastic wires are used at the equipment with AC rated voltage 300/300V or below.
Features
1. The rated voltage U0 / U 3.6/6 KV;
2. Cable conductor long-term work for 90 ° C temperature of cable;
3. The smallest bending radius is six times the diameter of cable;
4. Cable shall not be in the sunlight long exposure to;
5. The bottom line of cable core must good grounding.
Application
Used in electronics, instruments and electronic equipment and automatic generation device with the power cord, line and signal transmission lines, concrete can be used for anti-theft alarm system, building talkback system, instrument and meter, and monitoring control such as the installation of surveillance.
Manufacturing Standards:GB/T 12706-2008, IEC 60502-2
Model
Type | Name | Laying place and requirement | Long term working temperature |
227IEC01/05 BV BLV | Copper conductor PVC insulated wires | Fixed laid indoors, conduits etc. | 70 |
Aluminum Conductor PVC insulated wires | |||
227IEC07 BV-90 | Heat resistant copper conductor PVC insulated wires at 90 | Mainly be laid at the places of high temperature environment and can be laid indoors, conduits. | 70 |
BVR | Copper conductor PVC insulated flexible wire | Be for laying permanent place where flexible required | 70 |
227IEC10 BVV | Copper conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed round wires | Fixed laid, fit for the places with high mechanical protection and moisture place. Can be laid in the air or underground. | 70 |
BLVV | Aluminum conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed round wires | ||
BVVB | Copper conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed flat wires | ||
BLVVB | Aluminum conductor PVC insulated sheathed flat wires | ||
227IEC02RV 227IEC06RV | Copper conductor PVC insulated flexible connector | Mainly used at middle and light style moving electronics, home appliances, power and lighting and the places where flexible required. | 70 |
227IECC42 RVB | Copper conductor PVC insulated flat flexible connector | ||
RVS | Copper conductor PVC insulated flexible twisting connector wire | ||
227IEC52 RVV 227IEC53 RVV | Copper conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed round flexible connector (light and common type) |
Introduction of our company
Our company is a professional China Wire and Cable Manufacturers, mainly supply Aerial bundled cable,House Electric Wire, Insulated Overhead Cable,Aluminium Conductor Steel Reinforced, PVC Control Cables,XLPE Power Cables,BV Electric Wires,Nylon Sheathed Cable,Buried Cable,High Voltage Cable,House Electric Wire,Single Core Flexible Copper Cable,Civil Wire And Cable etc. series of wire and cable products, sincerely welcome everyone to visit.
- Q:I am trying to install new electrical cooking controls into my kiln. the part is robert shaw inf-240-31b, or 5501-473. I drew a diagram of how it was attached to the wiring inside the kiln before i took it apart, but now that i have the new controls, and i am installing them, i realized that i left something out of my diagram. at the top of the control, there are three prongs sticking out. the first is labeled P, the second, L1, and the third, L2. however, when I drew my diagram, i only drew two prongs sticking out at the top, and did not label them in my sketch. there are two wires that need to be connected to the prongs. which two do I connect to the wires? and what to P, L1, and L2 represent?
- I am assuming that kiln uses 240 volts because it is high power. If instead it is gas fired then you are talking 120 volts just to safely open and close that gas valve. For 240 volts, L1 and L2 are typically the two live wires. For 120 volts L1 is usually the live wire and L2 usually the neutral. The third one must be a ground to keep you from getting a shock if live wires touch any metal on the outside of the control. Usually it does not make any difference for 240 volts where you connect L1 and L2. For 120 volts you need to get the live wire to the right place. For the 240 volts there is probably a switch symbol on the diagram that opens both wires for shutoff. For the 120 volts the switch is only in one of the wires and that is the L1 live one. If you are in doubt try phoning tech support at Robert-Shaw.
- Q:I remember dialing a short 3 digit number to fix a pothole in my neighborhood (although I can't remember the number). I was wondering if there was another one I can call that could fix this buzzing' noise caused by an electrical wire by my house that's quite annoying and a bit skeptical whether I should be alarmed by it or not. Appreciate it. :)
- In most cities it's 311. I believe it is in Los Angeles as well. However, the electrical lines are probably owned by your power company and my guess is that you'll have to contact them with any concerns you have or to get them fixed.
- Q:Will the 20 kilowatts with 380V power supply to use much of the copper wire?
- Fiber multimedia information box: light cat (onu), network module, TV module, telephone module. General on the configuration of these, my Google space there are related pictures you can look at
- Q:I know that electrical resistance will decrease if you increase the cross-sectional area of the wirebut if that's the case, then why aren't wires made larger?? There must be some reason, some con to increasing the 'A'? I haven't touched Physics since high school, so I really don't remember. Thanks.
- Theoretically - can, but practically u need to check. You consider the the maximum possible measurable length between the two measuring point, as total length of conductor and take twice the cro-sectional area. In practice length is reducing and diameter is increasing so the resistance will reduce. The diameter will be the length here.
- Q:i have a Husky 5,000-Watt Generator i change the circuit beaker switch on it know i forgot how to put the new one on there 2 line terminal and 2 load terminal , 2 blue (hot)wire and 2 white(common) wire where do they go
- The line side goes to the generator and the load side goes to the output sockets.
- Q:16 square millimeters of wire how rough how to calculate
- Re-in charge of wiring, ordinary lighting and socket with 16 tubes (that is, the British 4 in charge), 2.5 square line is not more than 3 is appropriate; air conditioning tube should be used 20 tubes (that is, the British 6 in charge), 4 square Line is not more than 3 is appropriate, air conditioning line to be set up a separate circuit.
- Q:I am trying to wire up a tree light. All that comes out of the light is a Black White, and Ground wire. The instructions say you are supposedddd to install a Conduit and conduit connector which i dont have or really know what is. Can i install it without one. (AKA could i just splice it to a cut extension chord that also has a white black and ground?
- heres the deal. to make code no you cant do that. any electrical splice needs to be in an enclosure with a cover. what they want you to do is this. run your wire in a metal or plastic conduit (pipe, most likely 1/2), the pipe protects your live wire from rodents, or human tampering, potentially dangerous obviously. then put a threaded connector on the end of the pipe and install a weatherproof box, most likely a round bell box, assuming its a round base on your light. there is more to it to make sure you use the right rated wire for the pipe and so on most likely what you will do is avoid the conduit and just run your chord up the tree (although it isnt legal or safe). i would recommend 2 things. first find a junction/mounting box for the light. a better description of the light would help point you in the right direction. this will protect your splice from the elements. secondly, when running the chord staple it or secure it loosly, both to the tree and up the tree (allow some slack), this is because simply the tree will grow, alot of people dont think about that but realize it 5 years down the road.
- Q:I need to know if tackling a electrical light project by myself is doable, I have a fundamental understanding of electronics (no electrical background though)
- Well it really depends a lot on what power is available. If you have a plug below each area, run a wire up to a hole you cut out for a switch box, then run a wire from there to each of your lights. That's a basic set up. I hope that helps.
- Q:I am installing an electrical socket on the backside of a wall that already has an electrical socket. Does the electric wiring have a minimum length that I can cut it to or can I go as short as 3 feet?
- Nope - it can be 3 inches.
- Q:I want to upgrade from a 100amp service panel to 200 amp service panel, I am hiring an electrician, however i feel im being taken advantage of (im disabled), I would like to know how to find out what the load/rating is on the existing wires from the power hub accross the street to my electrical panel really are, the wires are underground and every bid I have gotten calls for the tar road to be cut up and entire new wires installed and I dont have that kind of money. Also since the house is NOT that old I dont think the wires need to be replaced. since some of my neighbors have upgraded w/o tearing up the road etc.
- I'm not seeing that the conduit is rated for being buried. They make a cable that can be buried or exposed outdoors without leaking electricity. You're going to want to go 12 or 10 gauge wire because you may be running some pretty high drawing tools out there. The next question is where are you hooking it into? Is it the regular breaker box and if so, can it handle the additional amps that you'll be adding? I'm not saying you can't do this, but if you do it wrong, it could kill you. Not grounded, mixed up hot wire and neutral, improper ground, etc. If, if you decide to sell and it's not up to code for your area, you may have to bring it up to code and at that point, it may cost as much or more than the original instalation.
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