• Oil Pump AY Series System 1
Oil Pump AY Series

Oil Pump AY Series

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General Description
Type AY Serious Oil pump is a new product designed on the base of old type Y oil pump which is suitable for renewing equipment with the aim of saving energy. It is used for petroleum refinery, petrochemical, chemical industry and other petroleum, liquefied petroleum gas and other mediums which are inflammable, explosive, toxic, high temperature and high pressure without solid particles.
Performance range
Capacity:2.3~600m3/h
Head:30~603m
Temperature:t=-45℃~+420℃

Instruction of pump type
For example:
1:250AYS80
250—Suction nozzle diameter (mm)
A:First reform
Y: Centrifugal oil pump
S:First stage impeller is double-suction
80: Head of single stage (m)
2:80AY100X2B
80:Suction nozzle diameter (mm)
A:First reform
Y: Centrifugal oil pump
100:Head of single stage (m)
2: Stage number
B:Impeller cutting code
Construction:
The construction of oil pump type AY is divided into eight kind single-stage and single-suction overhung, double-stage and single-suction overhung, single-stage and double-suction overhung, single-stage and double-suction with two ends supporting, double-stage and double-suction with two ends supporting, single-stage and double-suction with two ends supporting,multi-stage and ring section.
The single and double stage pump casing is installed horizontally with supported on the center line. The suction and discharge nozzle flanges are cast together on the pump casing and vertical upwards. The stuffing boxes and pump cover are cast together which can be installed with soft packing seal and mechanical seals such as balancing bellow and series. The water-cooled chamber jacket, which can be selected ,is installed outside of shaft sealing chamber the water cooled chamber will be installed only when required by customers or when the medium is water with temperature more the 66℃ and hydrocarbon compound with temperature more than 120℃.
A journal ball bearing and thrust bearing arranged back-to-back are installed on the bearing housing. The bearings are lubricated by flinger with thin oil. Cooling fins are cast outside of bearing housing which can be cooled by air(temperature is less than 120℃). The bearing housing also can be cooled by water(temperature is 120℃ to 420℃)
The pumps are driven directly by driver through the membrane coupling. View from motor end, the rotating direction is anticlockwise.

Q:Question for you. I'm looking for a 12v (no AC converter, please) water pump to drive up to 4 water misters. Needs to run off the battery, without an AC converter (already found those). The pump will pull from a water reservoir and provide cooling relief on hot days through the misters. BTW... the pump should be reasonably small, limited to a few pounds...If you have any ideas, please advise.Thanks again,Robert
The ac converters are 12V rectifiers so just use the pump (wire to a battery) without the converter or check with motor home repair place
Q:A circular swimming pool has a diameter of 12 meters. The sides are 3 meters high and the depth of the water is 2.5 meters. How much work is required to pump all of the water over the side?
Let the x-axis point upward, with x=0 at ground level. Consider a thin horizontal increment of water, of thickness dx, located at some x (0 ≤ x ≤ 2.5). This water has mass dm given by dm = ρA dx where ρ is the mass density of water (in kg/m?) and A is the area of this increment (A = 36π for all increments here). This increment must be lifted (3-x) meters. The increment of work dW is given by dW = gh dm where g is the acceleration due to gravity and h is the distance that the increment of mass must be lifted (which we've seen is equal to 3-x meters). The total work W is given by 2.5 ?∫ g (3-x) 36π ρ dx 0
Q:Is there a water pump with its own flow regulating function?
It has a water pump with adjustable flow capacity, I used it. Can also landing professional production pump manufacturers web site inquiries.
Q:i heard a water pump should not be able to move.is that correct? It is a 1995 RM250. there is no clogging in the pipes coming from the radiators with 2 fingers require force to move them but with the 1 finger it requires no force to move a couple Centimeters.
The water pump is turned by the primary gear on the crankshaft. When you were turning the water pump - the crankshaft was moving the piston up down in the cylinder. The couple of centimeters of movement is just the play between the gears - that's normal.
Q:Our water pump was really warm/hot to the touch, our hot water was more warm than hot, and wouldnt heat up enough to get hot, and it wouldn't turn off. (like when it starts up when you turn on the water,it just kept going,and wouldn't stop) so, because it was hot, and going constantly, we didn't want it to explode, or burn out, so we turned it off, and now I'm hoping that when we turn it back on after it cools, that it'll go back to turning on/off intermittently, instead of constantly. So, after it cools down, will it go back to normal, instead of just constantly going??!?
I assume you have a water well pump. The experience I have had, is it will come back on once the thermal safety switch cools down. However, I think you still have work here to do because each time this happens, you are shortening the life of your pump. First you need to determine why it ran hot to begin with. Could be lots of reasons, but just to name a few. -Is your water tank in good shape, with the correct air pressure? -Is the tank waterlogged, too old or leaking? -Any leaks in the service in or to the house? -Is your contact switch working properly, clean contacts, good wire, good connections, breaker etc.? -Is there water running somewhere your not aware of? -Last but not least, the check valve and foot valve leading to the well could also be defective. Just my opinion, I hope this helps to get you thinking. Good luck; flip;
Q:I have a 1997 mazda 626 4cylinder. For a while now, my hot n cold gauge keeps wobbling back and forth. I was keeping water in it and it was fine. A week ago it went all the way to hot and started smoking. There is water gushing out right beside the pulleys. I'm not sure if it is the water pump or not. Now, my car won't crank. Someone told me that it was the rotor button, but i can't tell if it is bad. I don't really want to take it to a mechanic. Can someone help me?????
That's what happens to water pumps, they start leaking and you loose coolant. When the gauge started acting weird that should have been your first clue. Unless you or someone you know can replace the pump you will need to take it to a mechanic. When you said it would not crank, did you mean the engine is seized up or just would not start, there is a difference.
Q:How much should I look for paying for my 1998 Honda Accord Water Pump??? With Labor and Materials?
This Site Might Help You. RE: How much to change a 1998 Honda Accord Water Pump? How much should I look for paying for my 1998 Honda Accord Water Pump?? With Labor and Materials?
Q:97 izusu rodeo has constant squeal after timing belt, water pump and all belts being replaced what could be the cause. It sounds pretty bad.
If the water pump has been replaced I would suspect either the alternator, the belt tensioner, or the A/C compressor. It's usually one of the first two and not the later, but check all three. It's an izusu so my guess is the alternator barring is worn out. Generally, In my experience, the power steering pump will not squeal unless it's ran low on fluid. The barring in the power steering pumps are usually submerged in the power steering fluid. I could be wrong but I'd check the tensioner and alternator first. Also check any idler wheels.
Q:I live in a condo building -- 3 floors, 7 units. In our storage units (right below my unit) is a water pump that was hooked up with the intent of helping the water flow to the 3rd floor. Everytime the pump goes off, it rattles, then makes a loud noise when it kicks off. The developers created a drywall box that houses the pump, which is surrounded by isolation, but it doesn't seem like it helps the noise. The pump also rattles the pipes that connect directly to the pump.My question is -- is this rattling normal for a standard water pump? If so, is there anything I can do to help cut down on the noise? If this is rattling is not normal of the standard water pump, what would it cost to replace it with something decent?
I've been around booster pumps that were extremely quiet -without any soundproofing at all.And the pipes don't rattle. You should find a plumber who knows what the hell he's doing and get that crap replaced.
Q:I have a pump connected to a lake, that I use to water garden. I changed the line into the lake as it had a air leak and lost it.'s prime.I have filled water back into the tank and lines .several times. And it hasn't caught it's prime. It is a year old pump that came with it's own tank.When I am doing all this I leave the tap end closed.I'm pretty sure that all is tight and not leaking.The line into the water is only about 5ft deep
Priming okorder / Hope it helps.

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