• JKL607 Series Reactive Automatic Power Compensation Controller System 1
JKL607 Series Reactive Automatic Power Compensation Controller

JKL607 Series Reactive Automatic Power Compensation Controller

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Applications

JKL607 series reactive automatic power compensation controller is designed according to the latest National standards of JB/T9663-1999,which is to be used together with low voltage electrostatic capacitance screen of various specifications,to provide real-time supervision on the power factor and reactive current of the power network,and give automatic throw-cut capacitor compensation to the power network.
JKL607A/607B/607C adopts the high quality single chip computer of US Amy Company,wich provides power cut-off memory function.It also has other obvious features such as digitally display the power factor and voltage of power network,strong function,precise compensation,easy debug and so on.
JKL607FA/JKL607FS adopts COMS digital integrated circuit and also use pointer meter to display the COSφ value.With manual operation function,you can use the manual operation button on the machine to switch on/off the compensation capacitor,while keeping the outpout state unchanged.
JKLD607C adopts dynamic reactive power compensation controller designed by intel 16 digit single chip comuter,which outputs DC9-12V signal,controls dynamic reactive power compensation control switch(Type:JKLD607KC)or controls bi-dimensional thyristor of zero passage trigger and plate trigger to quickly switch the capacitor.(Zero passage disturbance free switch)


Structure Characteristics

1. No throw-cut vibration,precise control within the range of full loads.
2. The lock function in super low load.
3. Over voltage protection function.
4. Use the circular operation mode of the earlier throw off,the earlie cut off.
5. It has preset functions of voltage,time delay and power factor,and the preset parameters maintain even then the power is cut off .


Code and Its Meanings
Operation Conditions

1. Altitude:≤2000m
2. Ambient temperature:-15℃+~50℃.
3. Relative humidity:≤90% at 20℃,≤50% at 40℃,
4. Ambient environment:no flammable,explosive,electric conducting dust,or corrosive gas.


Main Technical Parameters

1. Rated Voltage:jkl607A/B/C 380V JKL607FA/FS 220V
2. Sample Airflow:≤5A
3. Throw-in threshold:0.85-0.98
4. Over voltage protection:400-440V
5. Time delay:1-90s
6. Controlled Circuits:4,6,8,10,12
7. Dielectric strength:industrial frequency 3000V


Installation Size

The installation of JKL607 series adopts inserted case,with installation hole on the side.Put the hook of the fastening accessory into the hole,tighten the screw of the accessory and the controller is fixed on the scree.
JKL607A overall size:170×110×127mm Holing size:162×102mm(width×height)
JKL607B overall size:147×110×127mm Holing size:140×102mm(width×height)
JKL607C overall size:120×120×80mm Holing size:113×113mm(width×height)
JKL607FA overall size:120×110×127mm Holing size:162×113mm(width×height)
JKL607FS overall size:170×110×127mm Holing size:162×102mm(width×height)
JKLD607C overall size:120×120×127mm Holing size:113×113mm(width×height)



Q:hey! i have a music man 112 rd 50 and have problems to go with it, im not sure what the issue is but heres what she is doing. when i turn her on i have to turn the volume all the way up to get sound (at least 6 to 10) and then the sound is very muffled and clips in and out, it is not reaching anywhere near the volume it should, ive changed the fuse (it was not turning on at first fixed that) i have also changed the preamp tube and other tubes, they all work fine as far as ii can tell (there new they better be) any idea what may be going on??
If the fuse blew, something caused that (fuses going on their own are pretty rare). Chances are, you had a tube short which took out another component(s), and that took out the fuse. Music Man amps are actually kind of notorius for damaging the plate resistors when a power tube fails. I'm betting that's what happened, and now (even though you've replaced the power tubes), they're not getting adequate voltage on the plates to operate properly. Unless you know your way around a tube amp at the component level, I'd say take it to a good amp tech. Something like this shouldn't take more than an hour to diagnose and repair. Good luck. Greetings from Austin, TX Ken
Q:i am having a hard time trying to figure out how power is distributed from the battery to the fuse box and then to the components. i know some things like the starter dont go to the fuse box. but how is power given to the fuse box? is there a wire or something that gives power to the fuse box from the battery because when i look at a fuse box it dosent have a positive and negative wire for every fuse, so does the fuse box have like a positive and negative plate of some sort. i guess what im basically asking is how a fuse box is made. thanks.
Gandalf waves his wand and magic happens? Of COURSE there's a wire, you NOOB! If you want a diagram of the electrical system in your car then go buy a service/repair manual for your car. They have wiring diagrams in them.
Q:i have built a 1amp 7.2volt power supply and i'm wondering if it will be able to charge a 7.2volt 1600mAh battery.please help me, please, please.Thanks In Advance.
Well as you probably know you are trying to charge a 1.6amp battery with a 1 amp charger. At the very least the charger is going to get pretty hot because you are maxing it out and a lot more. It depends on what the components are actually rated. I would think that it depends on how well you have the charger protected with fusing and the size, you will either blow the fuse or the charger.
Q:i recently got my battery replaced because it wasnt holding charge. when it came out of the shop, the clock, power mirrors, and floodlights arent running. everything else seems fine, and i checked the fuses, all are intact. There were no problems with those 3 components before the battery was replaced. Any Ideas to fix this? thanks
Did you check the fuse block in the engine compartment. There may be a fuse or relay there that is bad. There may be a spare relay in the box. If this fails, I would go back to the shop and explain it to them. They may have disconnected something and didn't get it hooked back up. Hope this helps and good luck
Q:I have a Kenmore 110.64672400 and my husband thought it would be easy to disconnect the buzzer. He cut the two wires to the buzzer and started the dryer. It ran - until it started tried to buzz - then it died.What did we fry? What do we now need to replace?Please help.
That's one of many possibilities. Get out the multimeter and test all possible componants 'till you find the dead one. Hopefuly it's just a thermal fuse or thermostat and not the motor or timer!
Q:I unplugged an air freshner from my lighter. Immediatly after I noticed my lighter, dome light, power antenna, rear defrost, key in ignition chime and the lights at the bottom of the doors didn't work anymore. I switched all fuses in fuse box with new ones and the same components still didn't work. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
A Fuse it that simple one fuse power many thing it only cost like a dollar to but and 1 min to change so good luck
Q:Electromotive forceconductorsinternal resistancewhat is fuse and its function?
the SI unit of conductance is more commonly the siemens, but mho is also correct!
Q:I recently bought an old 2002 Hyundai Elantra, and it runs ok, except it won't start nearly every morning. My mechanic told me the battery's most likely going. The only reason I'm thinking it's something else is because every morning when I go to start the car, there's a loud, intermittent noise coming from the fuse box; it's like a loud grinding/electrical noise that only lasts about a second at a time, but continually comes back almost on perfect rhythm (think of your directional, same sort of rhythm). Sometimes the lights will flash on and off with the noise too. Could this be something other than a bad battery? Or is it possible that these symptoms suggest a more electrical problem? Any help is greatly appreciated!
From your description, I understand that indeed there is an electrical problem. I would start with what is called wiggle test. While engine is running, try gently to wiggle the fuse box back and forward. Should you find any abnormalities in engine running or engine stalls or anything that shouldn't be doing out of the ordinary, you can say that the fuse box is your problem. If all good, secondly I would remove the fuse box and do a pin test on all fuse box connectors from under the box (wiring harness that plugs into fuse box). This will tell you if any male connector is loose. Should you have any loose connectors, just close them up a tiny bid so that they wont move. Before you put the box back, apply some electrical stabilant to ensure proper conductivity on all electrical components. This procedure could be time consuming but is well worth it to try. Finally, before you do all these actions please, have someone doing an AVR test to ensure your battery is good and entire charging/starting system is normal. Hope this will help you.
Q:I have a HP Pavillion ZD8000 laptop that I paid $2000 for a few years ago. The video card just went bad on it and I'm being told that since it's fused to the motherboard, I need to purchase a new motherboard. I don't have alot of money to pour back into this laptop. Where can I find an affordable motherboard for this laptop? Where is the best place to have it installed?Thanks!
It isn't fused to the motherboard it is PART of the motherboard. The components that make up the video card, are right there on the same printed circuit board as everything else. A new motherboard for a zd7000 series goes for $900+ right now just had to price one for a customer. Why so much? This is HP's way of inspiring people to upgrade their hardware. You may have paid $2000 for it a few years ago, but it isn't worth nearly that much now. Think of it this way. Take a look at the laptops that HP is offering now, for that same $2000 and compare their specs to yours You'll see. There are tested motherboards available now on OKorder, for the zd8000 series, going for $300 (BuyItNow Price). Just do an OKorder search for zd8000 motherboard. As to where you should have it installed you might do better at a smaller repair shop, as opposed to Best Buy/Geek Squad. The wait time should be shorter, and the labor should be less. You are looking at between 2 and 3 hours labor for the job. I'm not saying that a good tech couldn't install it in under an hour. I'm saying that any shop is going to charge you between 2 and 3 hours of labor.
Q:Hello,I am having a home audio problem. I got an amp for free (Tanderg TR-2080) along with 2 BW speakers. I wired it up and worked great for over a year. Then all of a sudden the LH channel suddenly stops working. Thinking it is a disconnected wire, I switch channels and now its the RH side not working. Is there something I should look at, first and foremost? I think the amp is kind of cheap but its in my garage for working on cars. I would like to get both channels running but I don't want to spend $$$ to get it repaired. Any ideas?
I doubt the fuse theory, because it would probably take both channels out. You MAY have internal speaker fuses, which you can look for. I didn't get a good sense that you isolated what component is out of whack well enough. You need to exchange the incoming cables (only) to the amp first. Does the problem switch sides? If so, it is not the amp. If it stays the same, switch speaker wires. Does the problem switch sides too? Then it is the amp. If you do both sets, then the problem will almost always switch channels on you, which proves nothing. If the amp is bad: Unless you know electronics, and/or can find a blown speaker fuse, it is going to be tough to find the answer. Incidentally, if you find a blown speaker fuse, do not exceed the rating, and if a new one blows immediately, do not try to solve by replacing the fuse again and again. That can burn up the amp. Good luck!

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