• Instrumentation and Signal Control Cable 300/500V, 450/750V System 1
  • Instrumentation and Signal Control Cable 300/500V, 450/750V System 2
  • Instrumentation and Signal Control Cable 300/500V, 450/750V System 3
  • Instrumentation and Signal Control Cable 300/500V, 450/750V System 4
  • Instrumentation and Signal Control Cable 300/500V, 450/750V System 5
Instrumentation and Signal Control Cable 300/500V, 450/750V

Instrumentation and Signal Control Cable 300/500V, 450/750V

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m
Supply Capability:
100000 m/month

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1. Product Description

Copper Conductor, XLPE Insulated, Braiding Shielded, PVC Sheathed Flexible Control Cable 

GB9330-1988,IEC,DIN,BS,450/750V AC

2.450/750V Copper Coductor PVC Insulated and sheathed Flexible Control Cable
Detailed Product Description

3. The control cable can be produced according to the standard GB9330-1988, IEC, DIN, BS, and the factory can also manufacture the cables in accordance with other standards.

4.The control cable are suitable for the wiring of electrical controlling equipments and instrument, monitoring and controlling return circuit, electrical protection and measurement in power distribution unit under the circumstance that the rated voltage is up to 450/750V AC.

2. Product Characteristic

Maximum operation voltage: 600 V.

 2, Maximum operation temperature in the conductor: 

90°C In a dry environment.
75°C in a wet environment.

3. Soft drawn concentric lay stranded copper conductor class B (7 wires).

4 Manufactured in sizes from 0,823 5 to 5,26 mm2 (18 to 10 AWG).

5, No-flame propagation characteristics

3. Product Specification

Voltage  Rate

300/500V, 450/750V

Cores

Twisted Pair 1~50 pairs or Triple 1~20

Range of Nominal cross section:

0.50 mm2 ~2.5 mm2

Application

It is applicable to inspection instruments connection and the signal transmission of electronic computer system, monitoring loop, automatic control system.

Standard

IEC60092, BS5308, TICW6-2009

Constructions

Conductor: Class 1/2 annealed bare copper solid or strands or Class 5 fine annealed copper wire

Insulation: PVC, XLPE, PE

Sheath: PVC

Max. Operating Temperature

70℃, can be 90℃ as per requirement

4. Reference Picture

 

Instrumentation and Signal Control Cable 300/500V, 450/750V

Instrumentation and Signal Control Cable 300/500V, 450/750V

Q:4 square of single-core wire, the diameter is how much? Refers to the inside of the copper core diameter? Or even the skin together?
Induction of electricity, the line in the immediate situation, and quite long will produce
Q:I am trying to install a GFI in my bathroom but it keeps popping. I have narrowed the problem down to the high hats. I think the switch for the high hats is installed on the neutral, but I am not sure. When I hook up the wires for the high hats, the gfi pops. I have checked all the outlets for reversed wires. I can not get to the wires on the high hats. Is this dangerous?
It's not dangerous providing the GFI, or circuit breaker pops off. But seriously. If the switch is connected to the neutral wire (white wire) instead of the hot wire (black wire) it wouldn't matter. It wouldn't be wired correctly, but there would not be an adverse effect on the circuit. I don't know how much wiring you've done, but a common mistake when wiring a switch is connecting a black wire to one terminal and connecting a white wire to the other terminal. Then again it's possible that you wired everything correctly, and that there's something else wrong, like the high hats, or moisture somehow found its way into the circuit.
Q:I need help with simple electrical wiring, everything from where does the active and neutral go, in for example lights with a common, a loop, a one and a two. Possibly any links to EBook of useful websites. I am currently undergoing a pre-vocational course at tafe, just looking for a better understanding
You are talking about a switch, not a light. The common would be the active, from the mains. There would not be a neutral connection, the neutral from the mains would connect to the neutral from the light, in the LOOP terminal. The 1 is the one intended to go to the A of the light, the 2 is not used unless the switch is in a 2- way switching circuit. There may be an earth connector as well, so both earth wires go in that (the incoming power and the light earth). A light fitting on the ceiling may have an active, a neutral, a loop and an earth. If the power goes to the switch first, you will have a cable connected to the 1 of the switch. This connects to the active of the light. The neutral wire from the switch loop contact goes to the neutral connection of the light. The earth, if fitted, goes to the earth contact. The loop contact is unused. Should the mains supply go first to the light, the neutral will terminate in the neutral connection of the light. The active will connect to another cable to the switch, using the loop terminal. The second wire from the switch connects to the active connection of the light. At the switch end, the loop connection is unused. The mains active goes to the common connection, the wire from the active connection of the light goes to the terminal 1. That's why electricians are schooled. To them, it's as easy as ABC. Get learning!
Q:I have a baby monitoring system camera that isn't wireless and I want to make it wireless. It comes with a wire that plugs into an a/c adapter that goes into the wall. The a/c adapter has an input of 120ac and an output of 12dc. I also have a battery holder that holds 8 AA batteries and has two wires coming out of it. I want to cut the wire going to the a/c adapter and hook it up to the wire going to the battery holder. Will this work and how do I hook up the wires?
The easy answer would be to solder a DC connector identical to the one on the output end of the AC adapter to the two wires coming off the battery holder (red to center pin, black to ring). Here's the not so easy part: What is the current (amperage) required by the camera? The voltage of 8 AA batteries may equal 12VDC, but they probably won't be able to handle the amount of current the camera needs to work. Larger 12VDC batteries might work, but make it less portable, and the operating time might still be limited. Maybe a 12VDC battery from a power back up unit? Is the power cable the only think keeping his camera from being wireless? How does it transmit its signal?
Q:The new room wire soaked in the court to support the line
The new house of the wire soaked, the court will support the line, the need for identification. If the identification, the impact of the normal use of the wire, there are security risks, the court will support the line. According to the current market price compensation. But if the identification of the wire does not affect the use, the court will not support the line. The principle of judgment is to repair the repair, not repair only for. Legal link: "Tort Liability Act" Article XVI infringe the property of others, property losses in accordance with the loss occurred when the market price or other means of calculation.
Q:I am replacing an existing electrical short wire (about 3 inches - can't tell what it is) from my circuit panel to my central air breaker box. I am also extending it 15 feet. My air conditioner panel box is rated for 30 amps, but my air conditioner has a max value of 22.6 Amps imprinted on the side. I bought some 12-2 wire, but should I go with the 10 gage instead?
A current draw of 22.6 amps will require 10 gauge wire. 12 gauge is good for a max of 20 amps (legally).
Q:I have a halogen heater and one of the bulbs in it started flickering so I opened it up disconnected that bulb and found the casing around one of the wires connecting to it was burned off. So I have this exposed wire which is not connected to anything and was thinking about just covering it with duct tape and using the heater again. Now im not stupid and everything about this to me sounds like a bad idea but would like to get a second opinion on exactly how dangerous it would be, it would only be temporary until I got a new heater.
cut the end off down to the insulation and put a wire nut onto it. every electrical circuit has 2 wires - in and out. what happened to the other end? obviously, u will only get 1/2 the heat unless the bulbs are connected in series, the u will get nothing. I would assume there is a high and low setting - so it will only work on one of them but will always be low.
Q:I am running a new wire from the electrical panel to my flat panel tv. problem is there is a cold air return in the way. I am a bit worried running it across the bottom, in the basement, of the cold air return, seems like it would be a fire hazard. should I run it through conduit? if so what kind? flexible? metal? rubber? thanks.
romex is fine
Q:I am installing an electrical socket on the backside of a wall that already has an electrical socket. Does the electric wiring have a minimum length that I can cut it to or can I go as short as 3 feet?
Nope - it can be 3 inches.
Q:How is the electrical wiring configuration for North America differs from that in Bratain/Western and Eastern Europe,Latin America Asia/Japan and Australia/Pacific?
The USA and most of North America uses 60 hertz and 120/240 volts. Most of the rest of the world uses 50 hertz and 240 volts. Small differences in voltage are common from place to place. Hertz or frequency might also vary a little.

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